futurejames
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Posts posted by futurejames
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I feel like the better solution is to just use 4mm ID tubing. That way it doesn't bind entirely when the filament is slightly the wrong shape. My printer is running on 4mm ID PTFE tubing and it works great! Super slippery on the inside, held by threaded-on bolts at both ends (heater/feeder)
Are you still running the same setup as the last time it was discussed?
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I understand they require certain rights in order to host and distribute material. If I recall correctly, some of these legal changes were to address those concerns.
However, there's also a way to write it up which specifies that it requires these rights only for hosting. I don't see any of that kind of legalese in there at all. And I'm not sure how legal it is for them to just retroactively change licenses that users granted to them.
Do I think Makerbot is a sinister company that's looking to take over all my objects? No.
But, I didn't think Sun was a sinister company either. Then Oracle bought their stuff and started acting belligerent. What's to say someone won't buy out Makerbot and do the same?
In the meantime I just don't feel comfortable hosting my objects there, until things are very spelled out. I'd feel even better if it was a community driven site that couldn't be just taken over by one corporate entity.
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So I read this morning that Makerbot is now claiming ownership to all models on thingiverse. People are drawing attention to this using the "Occupy Thingiverse" . See:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30808
I thought I would post this here because a) Many of us have submitted designs to thingiverse and b) Ultimaker has uploaded their Ultimaker plans to thingiverse as well.
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I tried the two layers of tape + wipe with acetone, I was amazed at how well it stayed straight on the bottom layer. I deliberately printed something that previously warped like crazy, to the point of the bottom of the object actually being rounded.
Keep in mind the following caveats:
1) Its poorly supported anecdotal evidence (worked so far on a few prints, in my experience, but haven't tested it lots).
2) I'm not sure if it was the 2 layers of tape, or the acetone, or both.
3) There might be other factors in play -- the outside temperatures have dropped ten degrees lately, maybe it curls less in cooler weather.
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Actually, I used some 3M tape, same as stock just wider. I'm going to pick up some 3M 3434 today and try it out.
For sure the nozzle was off; I mentioned that my bed was poorly calibrated at the time. I was just so surprised to see it still print fine.
Tonight and tomorrow I'll try with 3M 3434 & a calibrated bed.
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Just tried a first print with this, here's some things I noticed:
- PLA sticks great.
- When I pulled the finished print off, it did pull up some of the tape off the top layer. But it didn't destroy it, it was pretty easy to smooth it out.
- I got way less "grilled cheese corner" on prints (where it curls up at corners).
- Prints came out great despite the bed having poor calibration.
I have a bunch of things to print over the next couple of days, so I'll be able to give it a good test.
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Thanks, I'll give it a shot!
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A V1 you mean?
Seeing that there will be a surplus of V1 hotends soon now, maybe people who think they can work with V1 hotends (mine work fine for example) will want to have them to make dual extrusion?
You currently cannot make dual extrusion with a V1 and V2 combined, unless you make new wooden parts for the top and bottom.
Yes, meant a V1. Mornings without coffee make brain fall down go boom.
I have 2 v1's, I also have access to a laser cutter so I can make my own wooden parts. The only thing I'm missing for dual extrusion is, well, a want or need for dual extrusion. Maybe I can make a little artwork out of it captioned "Don't buy spare parts for a machine that constantly changes". Its not a mistake if you learn from it.
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Just to comment on Daids post,
Yes, printing is now stable in NetFabb and has been for the past couple of revisions. It used to die towards the end of prints, but I've done many prints in it since they fixed the problem without issue.
Still, being a Linux person I tend to avoid Windows as much as possible... These days I open NetFabb in a Windows Virtual Machine, slice my model, and then print with either PrintRun under Linux or now more recently with the Ulticontroller.
Cheers,
Troy
I'd love to know what VM you are running it in (Vmware, virtualbox?). I prefer keeping my primary environments to Linux but I'm finding I need more Windows software running.
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Congrats Daid!
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I'm hoping that the upgrade kits allow us to use old parts from our older hot ends.
I really regret buying a spare v2 hotend now. :/
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I had a chance to see Kym's Ultimaker in action at the Faire. He did a great job, demonstrating and answering tons of questions (3d printer section was really busy). You were all real troopers, it was really hot in that tent!
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In Windows 7 you go into your control panel, select Power Options, then change the settings and tell it to never let your computer go to sleep. But then you gotta remember to not let the machine run like mad.
In Linux I didn't have to play with my power settings; It never went to sleep while printing.
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This isn't normal. I would get in touch with Ultimaker support.
I had the same issue as you. They mailed me a new bowden tube.
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AND I CAN WATCH TV ON SOFA WHILE PRINTING
Isn't that a great feeling? I had similar problems too, once you can print problem free its bliss.
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Just read on it, that's a fantastic idea.
Is there a way to "Brim" with the existing Cura settings? ie add skirts that are 0mm away from the object.
It would be nice if this was an option in Cura.
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I've seen some great results with 1.75mm filament (with a different hotend), too bad it's about twice as expensive as 3mm filament.
That might depend upon region. I pay the same for PLA or ABS, 3mm or 1.75mm, its $33 cdn/kg.
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I was plagued with the ticking for a while. Here's what I did:
- Checked that the axis were aligned using several tools to verify.
- Made sure the pulleys and belts were aligned with the axis above/below them.
- Machine oil on x/y.
- Take off all the end caps (or at least took one screw out and rotated it so I could see) and make sure they weren't hitting.
I have to say most of my problems were because of the first two. Going over them again and again (and again!) and now there's no more ticking. Also the machine oil helped a lot.
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I have sliced and printed bigger than that on the Ulticontroller. I haven't tried anything that big over USB.
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Thanks for the link futurejames, I can't see that in any of the categories! I wonder what other useful parts are in the store but not showing up
Via the cheapest postage option for just 1 tube: Grand Total Excl. Tax €28.50 I might have to find somewhere to source these locally, as even at crazy australian prices I might be able to get it cheaper
I feel your pain, it costs a fortune to ship to Canada as well. You can dull the pain a bit if you order several things at once, or find a few other local Ultimaker owners for group purchases.
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Don't know why I'm getting grief with the quotes, but here's where the bowden tube is at the store
https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/bowden-tube.html
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I would take Daid's advice under consideration, especially when he's talking about lowering the speed and raising the temperature. Get it printing well first, then start playing with speed/temp.
I ran into similar issues as you. I tried my own solution (PFA tube 4mm ID 6mm OD) and it landed its own set of problems. Eventually I got a replacement tube from Ultimaker Support and my problems went away.
Ultimaker blaming it on PLA: Well, from your own measurements it sounds like they got a bad batch of PLA. I'm not sure if they will replace that (I wasted most of my original spool and none was replaced). Easiest way to test the theory is to buy some local PLA in your area, one that meets tolerances.
I don't think there are any problem-free kits out there, even pre-assembled ones. If you want an easy turn-key solution that is hassle free, those printers do exist. They have five digit price tags and their material costs are higher. You get what you pay for!
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I've been thinking lately of things I could fab up that would be helpful when SCUBA diving. I'm really not sure of how PLA would stack up in the water though.
So this is a two part question. One, would PLA hold up vs various conditions underwater? And if no one is sure, maybe put together a bunch of test scenarios and I can just bring some PLA with me on the next dive.
So here's a list of conditions:
- Pressure at various depths (up to 130ft).
- Colder temperatures (I'm diving in Canada, its cold eh).
- Warmer temperatures (when diving on vacation). I know the glass transition temp is pretty low, but I don't think the ocean ever gets that hot.
- Constant exposure to fresh water.
- Constant exposure to salt water.
- Constant exposure to chlorinated water (for when testing in pool).
Other things based on what the PLA is shaped into:
- Small solid infilled objects (such as a printed clasp or carabiner).
- Small objects with 20% infill. Small pieces added to existing accessories (such as a stopper for the reel on your dive flag).
- How thick would container walls need to be in order to withstand pressure.
- Could you even make a container that held together well enough, if you employed rubber seals?
So, what do you think? Looking for answers, helpful advice, or even more questions to add to my list.
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Ian thanks for the link I'm going to play with that this weekend. There was a few models I abandoned in Sketchup because I could never get them to print correctly.
I second the Cura suggestion.
Ultimaker reliability/consistency
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
There's much less warpage with PLA.
Using double sided tape I don't even get any bottom warp-age.