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futurejames

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Posts posted by futurejames

  1. My new PFA tube just got here. 4mm ID 6mm OD.

    After a bit of monkeying around, I got things working. I can tell you both owen's bowden clamp and pit3k's bowden clamp are mandatory. Print out whatever is bigggest/strongest from the provided STL files.

    So far so good. I'm going to try some slightly larger diameter PLA and see if it can handle it.

  2. Yes. It's best to stick to 115200 if you switch to Linux from time to time. Or, even better, fix PySerial ;p (that's the culpit for Linux)

    But the best option is the UltiController, because with that you'll print without USB connection. However, because UM had a broken laser cutter they are currently in pre-order. I think they will be in stock soon again, but they have a backlog to work away then.

    Well out of the two I'd have to say the UltiController option is easier :D. I guess now its a matter of waiting for them to be shipping again.

  3. I've been following this thread with interest, as I've been running into similar problems.

    I've been thinking about doing something similar but using parts found in North America (save me a bit of cash on shipping & duty). I found a tube at McMasters that looks interesting:

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#pfa-tubing/=hrc6gt

    One of them is the 5/32" ID and 1/4" OD. Which is ~3.9mm inside and ~6.4mm outside for $4.33 per foot.

    The other is in the metric side, 4mm ID and 6mm OD. Cheaper too at $3.15 per foot.

    Are either of these fine to use, do you think?

  4. The "ABS fix kit" is just a short piece (1 m) of ABS intended to be extruded for the purpose of stopping any leakage from the nozzle. If you use nothing but PLA on the Ultimaker it will most likely leak a lot.

    Leak how? I had the kit but didn't use it, and I only extrude PLA. Is there something I should be watching for? Or should I just extrude the ABS now?

  5. Cura functions fine at 115200, but the chance of buffer underruns are smaller at 250000. However, because you are also running Linux, it's better to use 115200 because 250000 does not always seem to work for the Linux version of Cura.

    Thanks for the quick and infomative response.

    One other question comes to mind. If I also switch between OS platforms often, should I stick with 115200?

  6. Just getting started with Cura RC4. I normally use either Ubuntu 12.04 or Win7. Thanks for supplying binaries for both! :D

    I had started originally with RepG. So when I went to Cura, it didn't work initially. I ended up setting the baud rate to 115200 and it was able to communicate with the printer.Will this have any impact on the speed of printing? Should I try to update the firmware from Cura to go to 250000 or is there no advantage to this?

    Are there any other things I should watch out for if I'm using multiple programs? Cura is becoming a fast favourite but I will probably still use RepG too.

  7. Thanks for the tips guys!

    I am going to call Voxel Factory today to see if their filament is the right size -- its hard to pass up as the price is amazing and they're only an hour away. I will pick up a calliper to verify their claims.

    If it doesn't work out I am gonna go with protoparadigm and ultimachine. Thanks!

  8. Hi.

    I just found a piece of PTFE tubing. outer diameter is 6mm and Inner is 4mm. It tested it up to 300°C with a soldering iron. It seems to withstand the temp.

    I made a test by hand with my 3.0mm indented filament and the force required to push is through is very low. I have to find out how to reliably hold it in place on my UM.

    I think I'll print Owen's Bowden clamp for that...

    ++

    Gaël

    I would love to see that!

  9. I am really loving to tinker with my Ultimaker. However I really need the machine to be operational all the time, and I don't have the budget to order a second one. As an alternative & fun project, I thought about building a Reprap (like a Prusa). Then I could always have a printer to play around with while the other is working.

    Has anyone any experience with printing out the Prusa parts on an Ultimaker?

  10. but I now have

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19818

    and they work great; I needed 1 on each of my X-axes, and 2 on my Y's (...). Fitting two with the normal screws is a tight match, so I'm thinking of getting longer ones, but it does work with the standard screws.

    Wow, 2 on your Y's? Did you put one on each side? I didn't have enough tension in my X's and added a small piece of wood between the tensioner and the belt. But I'd like to know how you did it, it sounds like a much cleaner solution.

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