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About greengecko

  • Birthday 07/23/1970

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
  • Country
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker Original
  1. Hi, i tried cura 4.0 and it shows a funny behaviour. i am printing quite detailed min figures (with tree support and adaptive layers). when i slice with cura 4 sometimes the print stops during print. unfortunately extruder stays at the temp and it slowly forms a blob at the print. there is nothing that can be done i have to switch off the machine. it is actually worrying because if not attended it could start a fire of melt the extruder parts. i have a modified ultimaker original (a ulti2 printhead) and a selfmade heated bed. i suspected the power supply, but when i go back to cura 3.6 this stopping does not occur. unfortunately it is not reproducible it just happens sometimes but always when sliced with 4 and so far not with 3.6. anyone seen this behaviour? or has an advice what to look for, is it possible that cure 4 creates too complicated gcode? running out of ideas. thanks in advance
  2. @Siebet are there any news from your mark on umo upgrade. did you solve the slow in curves problem? i have now the reprap controller tft and could try if the um2 firmware is running on the umo.. any advise? thanks in advance
  3. hi i had the same problem with my umo. my workaround was to switch the umo on, get the mintemp error, select preheat the nozzle, wait until the nozzle was above 60 degrees or so, switch the umo off and on again , and the min temp error was gone. after a while i tried to solve it and read somewhere in the forum it can be due to a bad cable from the driver board to the electronics. as i had a dual head once installed i had another connector available and reinstalled that one and the min temp error was gone. so maybe check the connections to the thermistor or replace them could be a solution. i recently upgraded to a pt100 without a problem so maybe also an idea as you have the um2 head already.
  4. @Siebet hi i successfully installed all mods um2 on umo (even silent steppers feels like a new printer) and i love the olsson to change nozzles. so easy. now the questions. is there any progress regarding the um2 firmware on the umo to prepare for the mark2 addon. (my display arrived last week) though i am a bit scared to upgrade such a nice printer, but two colours/materials would be my dream come true... thanks in advance.
  5. i solved my issue with the silent steppers. . They are indeed great and i can only recommend them. my printer is so quiet i sometimes scared that i cannot hear it when i enter the print room. the problem i had was solely due to my cooling. to reduce noise further i also replaced the electronic fan by this design https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-electronics-fan-replacement and this does not provide enough cooling for the silent steppers. as an intermediate solution i just positioned the two 40 mm fans next to the xy steppers using tape. works now like a charm. i still kept reducing amaxx and amaxy to 5000 as otherwise i still loose steps i when increasing speed to around 90mm. so all good now and for everyone i can recommend that upgrade. feels like a new printer.
  6. i just upgraded my UMO with silent steppers and initially it was great. then i noticed that one axis was missing steps. as much as i tried to dial in the steppers by adjusting the current by fixing the Vref (0.8 - 1.2V) i could not find a setting the worked for longer prints. also played with the cooling fans as the steppers get quite hot regardless of the passive cooling. the only way to get a longer print (>2 hours) without missing steps was by adjusting max acceleration Amaxx and Amaxy with the ulticontroller. here is my question: am i the only one who has missing steps or do most of you reduce the acceleration or any other tweak? if someone of you has any advice on such settings or another idea what could be wrong with my silent steppers please let me know. i changed vmaxx and y from 9000 to around 1500-2000 so quite a bit and it obviously slowed down the overall print speed but no more skipping of the steps. thanks in advance
  7. @Siebet thanks a lot for your clarification. i to hink i got it now. i read some older post also from @amedee how to install the full graphic lcd to the umo. if i am not mistaken it's plug and play (if the notch on the connecting cable is on the right side). also a save button should not be pressed (sensu amedee) and he even provides a selector in his great firmware builder. so i can test it and then upload your firmware once i have a mark2 upgrade. though this needs some more tweaking if i understand (endstops, sliders, parking device on the mark two). i also assume if have to tweak the firmware to my specific settings e.g. pt100 heaters, home made hbk,) obviously super awesome would be to include it into amedees firmware builder, but i totally admit i have not much of a clue how hard that is). just will order a reprap display controller or however it is called. found some chinese suppliers which ship to australia. cheers, back to the modding... my personal todo list: [admittedly not very interesting i assume] change 24 mosfet, add 24v psu, add small 12v fan to the um2 head, add pt100 once e3d driver board is arriving....... so lot of fun bits... btw the um2 head is working great, just the heater is taking longer (still 19v and old thermocouple) though temp reading is difficult as the thermocouple is too long for the olsson block..) sorry i am bubbling....
  8. @Siebet That is great indeed. One quick question. I am not familiar with the RepRap Discount LCD (googling it looks like it is an 128x64 dot matrix display. And here is my question, I assume I do not need the controller for such a board if I already have an ulticontroller. So would your port work with an umo (1.5.3) and an ulticontroller, where an 128x64 dot matrix is connected? If so that lcd as an example would be suitable. https://www.jaycar.com.au/arduino-compatible-128x64-dot-matrix-lcd-display-module/p/XC4617 Thanks again and cheers
  9. Hi, @amedee I have aimed to upgrade now to an UM2 on my UMO. Everything seemed to have work great, but now I have a problem with my fans being always on. Even if set to 0% they still spin quite fast. First I thought the fans from China are not pwm-able or so, but I attached my old dual fans (12V) in parallel on an 1.5.3 board as before and now they are also spinning regardless of the fan setting. Though if I set the fan to 100% they seem to spin faster. So something seems to be broken. Reading the forum I came across the BD679 problem and that this thing fries (which could be easily done as I "experimented" with attaching various fans. [i know not a good idea] . Now my question is there a test if the BD679 is actually the problem? I already checked but my local store seems to have only BD681 in store. Are they exchangeable/ https://www.jaycar.com.au/bd681-npn-transistor/p/ZT2193 Any help would be greatly appreciated. A test print with the new head looked awesome, but I had to disconnect the fans otherwise the cooling was too efficient. Thanks in advance
  10. @amedee "Starting from a 'standard' UMO(+), you need 2 UM2+ hot ends, 2 extruders, new X/Y axes, ... which is already a lot of money. If I add to that the time to develop a new firmware, plus the other mods to retrofit the Mark2 to the UMO it makes the addition higher again " my angle is here: i soon hopefully have one um2+ hotend, i had umo dual extrusion so already have two extruders. son all i need is another um2+ hotend. why do i need new x/y axes? that' s new for me. and unfortunately a lot of luck or fortune if i would need to hack into the firmware to make it work for the umo. that sounds like a lot of github study... so you are most likely right nevertheless i saw an um2+ for 1700 australian dollar recently which is around 1200 euros so a real bargain, though sounds almost too cheap. cheers and thanks again.
  11. @amedee an ultimaker2 is unfortunately a bit out of my budget (at least currently, but maybe with the ultimaker 4 coming out at some stage the price drops into a more accessible range). and admittedly the umo is still running fine so i have no excuse for my family to buy a new one...
  12. [quore] Hi, I am trying to upgrade the UMO to an Mark 2 with 2 UM2 printheads. I have a friend which is very good in Arduino coding and he will translate the firmware so it will work with an Reprap Full Graphics LCD... If it works, we will publish it online! @Siebet That sounds great. i tried to find info what a reprap full graphics lcd is and ink it is similar to the ulticontroller but not sure. anyway if you are successful please let me know. @amedee thanks again for the helpful responses. i will report on my success/failure once i have all the bits and pieces together....
  13. Hi @amedee, Just looked at your 24V hack. I have a power source I can change from 19V to 24V by adjusting it. So I do not need to link the power from the heated bed to the ultiboard. Just to make sure I still need to replace the step-down regulator from the original to the ones suggested by you the switching ones (TRACO TSR 1-24120, RECOM R-78C12-1.0) , true?
  14. Hi @amedee and @catohagen, great thanks for the replies and helpful discussion. I am still waiting for some components and checking now the 24V upgrade. In regards to the fans I will put them in series anyway and should have another 12V (24V) fan lying around. Does the original 5V fan to be PWM-able or is it either on/off all the time on the UM2(+), once the printer is on? One last question. My very hidden agenda is in the end (once I have an UM2 hot end and got used to it) to even try to upgrade my UMO to a Mark2. Next to the hotends (yes I would need another one) it seems to be the software/firmware that is the biggest problem here. Anyone of you has tried or thought about such a mod ? Thanks again, greengrecko
  15. @amedee great thanks for the fast and helpful response. you are right i am running still on 19v (an new power source though i could tweak to 24v) and the heater element will be/is actually running on 24v. can you point me what i need to do to run the 1.5.3 on 24v and what do i need to do for that. final question if you are so kind to take your time, what is the best way to connect the 5v and 12v fans from the hot end ? thanks again.
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