Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

msurunner

Dormant
  • Content Count

    274
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by msurunner

  1. Hey guys! I just got back into my classroom again today after a much enjoyed summer break. What's new in the world of UM? Looks like Daid, you have a couple new updates to Cura? People are building heated beds? Dual extrusion is coming along? With all else that's going on, I'm feelin' lazy on sifting through the forum and figured I'd just let you guys brag up your accomplishments :)

     

  2. Maybe it's just me, but wouldn't this be the expected outcome? By utilizing microstepping, you are essentially semi-pulsing the motor to place it in between steps, which will get you closer (more accurate) but will not be as precise as a hard step. You could counteract this by setting up a gearing system to take advantage of the precision of hard steps and the accuracy of microstepping by essentially gearing the step down by 1:16, but then you are loosing your element of speed. I guess it all comes down to what you want the printer to be used for. If you want something that requires that level of precision, I don't think the UM is the best tool for the job (belts, variation in filament, environmental conditions, etc). To me, if that precision is required, I'm buying a SLS/SLA printer that negates several of those constraints of the UM.

     

  3. Are those bulges at the same height on the two objects? They appear to be, which to me would seem that your z axis ball screw might be slightly out of adjustment??? Maybe check the platform screws around the bearings and loosen/re-tighten your ball screw coupler? The other thing to consider would be adjusting your flow rate. Since you are saying those are on solid layers I would think your flow rate is slightly too high.

     

  4. So you have tape around the bowden where the connector bites? If that's the case, I would remove it. If you are having issues where the filament is grabbing the edge of the bowden tube and pushing it upward, you can try taking an angled razor and scrapping the inside of the bowden to increase the chamfer slightly. You don't have to worry too much about if you screwed it up, as you can trim the 1/2" or so that you can screw it up off and still reach all of the parts of the bed.

     

  5. If we were to adapt to another platform I would think the newest arduino announced at MakerFaire would hold some significant promise... Integrated wireless programming could make the printer even less tethered. FTP over the network a file to an onboard SD and print? That could be used in conjunction with a small appetite slicer (Vapor Engine Daid?) to make it to where someone can go from Catch123D to the printer all from an iOS/Android with no computer what so ever...

     

  6. Bear in mind that what you're seeing could well be the notorious 'thin wall' problem in Cura, where certain parts of the walls don't get filled in properly.

    If you haven't already, try slicing with a single loop around the outside - set your wall thickness equal to your nozzle width, and are if that makes any difference to the end result.

     

     

    Which Daid fixed in the next release :)

     

  7. Beyond critiquing your settings: SF-based Cura does some weird things when it detects a "bridge" layer in order to try to create a foundation for it and the next layer, and I think it unduly uses plastic. Daid's new engine handles bridges better IMO. See if you can get on the Beta list from him and examine the differences. Both tell you the expected plastic consumed and you can see if it's different. My bet is that's where you are see the problems.

     

  8. I had a similar thing happen. We think we traced it back to a plug, which caused the bowden tube to pop, which pulled the cable (3-pin) loose, which caused the runaway. I'm surprised your PEEK survived! Mine definitely didn't. I haven't checked the build instructions recently, but they used to call for the F-comb on the amp board to not have the fingers over the input. That should be reversed, having the comb over the socket and threading the wires into the fingers. That should help the 3-pin from coming out. Of the things I think could be better with that setup would be some clasp connectors between the thermocouple and amp board, and amp board to umbilical cord. Having said that, I have been pretty much problem free for the past six months without them. This does make me want to check the little screws and connectors again though!

     

  9. Along those lines, does anyone know of a wiki site or something where we could post photos and slicer settings - and then have some sort of troubleshooting information on how to fix each type of printing problem that people are facing? That could be a very helpful thing!

     

    Right here is about as close as it gets!

    i think you are over retracting/speed is too high as well, and it's causing a bunch of small chews into the filament that are causing slippage. Reason being, when you look at the top, it looks like once there is a constant layer again, it starts attempting to print, but there is nothing to print on. I would disable retract on layer change as well.

     

  10. I actually like using Yoda at half scale and hollow with several perimeters to check filament settings as it gives a variety of quick movements, single walls in the ears, overhangs, and there are distinct features to be recognized. Plus, the print ends up as a product, not just a widget (Kids love it if you toss them a Yoda figurine and say Merry Christmas).

     

×
×
  • Create New...