msurunner
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Posts posted by msurunner
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I graduated from there. I'm currently teaching now. Which school are you currently attending?
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Hey guys! I just got back into my classroom again today after a much enjoyed summer break. What's new in the world of UM? Looks like Daid, you have a couple new updates to Cura? People are building heated beds? Dual extrusion is coming along? With all else that's going on, I'm feelin' lazy on sifting through the forum and figured I'd just let you guys brag up your accomplishments
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Looks good to me, though if you wanted to be certain, you could mock up a spacer clamp to print out while it's functioning now with a slightly taller height to put more of a bite on the bowden.
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Maybe it's just me, but wouldn't this be the expected outcome? By utilizing microstepping, you are essentially semi-pulsing the motor to place it in between steps, which will get you closer (more accurate) but will not be as precise as a hard step. You could counteract this by setting up a gearing system to take advantage of the precision of hard steps and the accuracy of microstepping by essentially gearing the step down by 1:16, but then you are loosing your element of speed. I guess it all comes down to what you want the printer to be used for. If you want something that requires that level of precision, I don't think the UM is the best tool for the job (belts, variation in filament, environmental conditions, etc). To me, if that precision is required, I'm buying a SLS/SLA printer that negates several of those constraints of the UM.
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Are those bulges at the same height on the two objects? They appear to be, which to me would seem that your z axis ball screw might be slightly out of adjustment??? Maybe check the platform screws around the bearings and loosen/re-tighten your ball screw coupler? The other thing to consider would be adjusting your flow rate. Since you are saying those are on solid layers I would think your flow rate is slightly too high.
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Double check your clamp fitting is installed correctly on the printhead with a horseshoe clamp to ensure a good "bite"
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Temp sounds a bit low for 100 mm/s (context, I'm usually at 220 with about 50-60 mm/s). For the sake of troubleshooting, when are you getting the pops? Immediately? Five minutes in? 30 seconds? If you need to print something to make it work, you are likely going to need to slow it down to the 50-60 range until you get 'er dialed in.
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So you have tape around the bowden where the connector bites? If that's the case, I would remove it. If you are having issues where the filament is grabbing the edge of the bowden tube and pushing it upward, you can try taking an angled razor and scrapping the inside of the bowden to increase the chamfer slightly. You don't have to worry too much about if you screwed it up, as you can trim the 1/2" or so that you can screw it up off and still reach all of the parts of the bed.
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I end up printing at 260 without retraction when I'm printing in soft PLA and turn it into a sort of controlled ooze. Not the best technique, i know, but it works. If it's starving for PLA in some spots and hoarding in others, then I turn the speed down slightly.
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If we were to adapt to another platform I would think the newest arduino announced at MakerFaire would hold some significant promise... Integrated wireless programming could make the printer even less tethered. FTP over the network a file to an onboard SD and print? That could be used in conjunction with a small appetite slicer (Vapor Engine Daid?) to make it to where someone can go from Catch123D to the printer all from an iOS/Android with no computer what so ever...
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Foehnsturm: I think I missed my deadline for ordering under the school budget :/ I'll have to get in on the second batch if available, so if you bulked an order with me in, looks like Rob can have my spot.
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That, or try sliding them in from the other side. Laser cuts often produce a slight angle in parts and when you are dealing with tight tolerances it can cause things to have to be directionally inserted.
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Bear in mind that what you're seeing could well be the notorious 'thin wall' problem in Cura, where certain parts of the walls don't get filled in properly.
If you haven't already, try slicing with a single loop around the outside - set your wall thickness equal to your nozzle width, and are if that makes any difference to the end result.
Which Daid fixed in the next release
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Beyond critiquing your settings: SF-based Cura does some weird things when it detects a "bridge" layer in order to try to create a foundation for it and the next layer, and I think it unduly uses plastic. Daid's new engine handles bridges better IMO. See if you can get on the Beta list from him and examine the differences. Both tell you the expected plastic consumed and you can see if it's different. My bet is that's where you are see the problems.
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I had a similar thing happen. We think we traced it back to a plug, which caused the bowden tube to pop, which pulled the cable (3-pin) loose, which caused the runaway. I'm surprised your PEEK survived! Mine definitely didn't. I haven't checked the build instructions recently, but they used to call for the F-comb on the amp board to not have the fingers over the input. That should be reversed, having the comb over the socket and threading the wires into the fingers. That should help the 3-pin from coming out. Of the things I think could be better with that setup would be some clasp connectors between the thermocouple and amp board, and amp board to umbilical cord. Having said that, I have been pretty much problem free for the past six months without them. This does make me want to check the little screws and connectors again though!
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If you can I think 2 screws is better
Agreed. I'd probably purchase a set with the two grub screws as well...
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Along those lines, does anyone know of a wiki site or something where we could post photos and slicer settings - and then have some sort of troubleshooting information on how to fix each type of printing problem that people are facing? That could be a very helpful thing!
Right here is about as close as it gets!
i think you are over retracting/speed is too high as well, and it's causing a bunch of small chews into the filament that are causing slippage. Reason being, when you look at the top, it looks like once there is a constant layer again, it starts attempting to print, but there is nothing to print on. I would disable retract on layer change as well.
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If you have the model, just try running it through the cloud service for that. I suppose what I'm suggesting is that you limit the number of things that you make the cloud service do, as the more you ask of it, the more potential there is for an incorrect interpretation of what should be taking precedence.
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The only thing I have particularly different is a fan shroud. I have changed up my extruder but that's 99% cosmetic acrylic cutouts with slight changes for different bearing sizes in the Bertho upgrade...
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You'll have to let us know how the dfrobot parts work as well! Very curious on the heater core and thermocouple!
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Netfabb Cloud services are a great thing for cleaning models up, but they are still not perfect. If you build it correctly, making sure everything is nice and boolean'd or union'd or join'd together properly, you usually don't have any problems.
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Yeah, I mean, I'm not trying to suggest they are even up to UM spec, I just saw them in my travels and was curious... Maybe next time my tinkering breaks something I'll order one of their UM sets and post results... If anyone else has bought the DF stuff, their input would be greatly appreciated!
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Yepppp, you're gonna want to get your boolean on!
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I actually like using Yoda at half scale and hollow with several perimeters to check filament settings as it gives a variety of quick movements, single walls in the ears, overhangs, and there are distinct features to be recognized. Plus, the print ends up as a product, not just a widget (Kids love it if you toss them a Yoda figurine and say Merry Christmas).
Ultimaker Robot Logo covered by the Ulticontroller!
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Moving the UltiController to the side also provides some protection for the power switch/cord. That's never a bad thing when you don't want to interrupt a 13 hour print...