gr5

@kirsten - Nope. No reason not to solder it now.

Measure the thermister when it is not connected to the utlimaker board and make sure it measures around it's nominal value (very very roughly around 100K if it's a 100k thermistor - 50K might be normal also). Try to include all the wiring in your measurement - there may be an open (or possibly a short) in your wiring. Heat up the thermister by touching it with your fingers or other heat/cool methods. You should see the resistance change immediately. Once that is working, connect up the thermister to the ultimaker, turn on the power to the ultimaker. Now you have a resister divider so that the voltage at SIG should agree with this formula: Vsig = 5V X Rthermistor / (Rthermistor + 4700)

The problem is that when you tell the extruder to stop extruding plastic, a little bit oozes out. You will get the greatest improvement by increasing the difference in speed for movements versus printing. So the suggestion of 40mm/sec is great because the default movement speed is 150mm/sec. Another fix is to use retraction (which will drastically slow down your print. The settings in Cura set the distance travelled before retraction (retraction of extruder) is used and how much to retract the filament. You could reduce the distance setting to be smaller than your hole sizes. The final fix is to lower your nozzle temperature a little so there is less oozing. Every color of PLA prints best at different temperatures so it's hard to recommend a temperature. If you lower the temperature too much and print too fast, you can damage your ultimaker with too much pressure in the print head. Ideally you should print a series of 10X10X10mm hollow cubes at different temperatures with same layer thickness as you plan to print most often, lowering the temperature by 5C at a time until you get an ugly look (tiny holes) due to underextrusion and then pick the lowest temperature where the cubes look perfect.

I'm not sure if you are talking about before printing or during printing. If before printing: You can adjust the home height by sliding the homing switch up and down. On the back of the UM there is a "Z limit switch". It can slide up and down. With power off, Loosen the screws so the switch slides up and down in the slot. Rotate the z platform until it touches the nozzle. Slide the switch down until it clicks (or a little more down). Tighten the screws. If you can't get the limit switch to click then you built something wrong. Did you include the plastic printing bed? Please send a picture of your bed and another picture of the print head. If during printing: When you tell Cura the first layer is .3mm, it sets the z axis to .3mm to allow room for the PLA to come out. This is normal. If you tell cura the first layer is .1mm, then the z axis is set to .1mm. If you have an ulticontroller you can see this on the ulticontroller screen during printing.

I can't see your picture. If they are tilted in the x-axis only, it is almost surely the black plastic x-motor mounts are too short and the x-motor belt is rubbing slightly against the wood back board. I had a tilting problem and it was fixed when I added 4 washers under the 4 mounts. Took 8 hours of head scratching to figure out the problem and only 3 minutes to fix the problem.