pablobell
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Posts posted by pablobell
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I use these banana belt tensioners made by MoonCactus. Great stuff. And I agree with you in that the belts from the motor tend lo loosen more often (these were the loose belts I was talking about).
I just wanted to know if hysteresis is accounted for. At fast print head speeds, the inertia when stopping or changing directions would make it difficult to calculate a precise position. But at lower printing speeds it could explain the very well known issue with smaller hole sizes, which is the topic of this thread.
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Try NetFabb and disable the downskin in the region definitions.
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So Daid if you just multiply the estimated time by 1.6, the estimation error will be about +-30% or less. I am assuming the uncorrected calculated times are always less than the actual ones, as it happens with NetFabb.
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Hi Dave,
As a customer also living in the southern hemisphere (Argentina) I have some suggestions for you.
First of all, the Ulticontroller is really worth it. It will allow you to use the printer without a computer, which is really appreciated for long day and night printing jobs (for less energy consumption and noise). It also allows you to use different slicer programs, as the only one that works perfectly for direct connection is Cura. But there are others, like NetFabb, KSlicer or Slic3r and each one has its benefits and drawbacks. The UC is also very handy for calibration purposes. Buy it.
Speaking of NetFabb, as it does not have any shipping costs, you can make your first prints with Cura to get the feel of 3D printing, try the free version of NetFabb and then if you like it buy it. I like it because it's very customizable.
About spare parts, I have used the UM for 4 months and no part shows signs of wear. During assembly I overtightened the brass tube and broke it (https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades/brass-v2.html). Be careful when tightening it, as I wasn't the only one with this problem. I would buy a spare just in case. And/or you can order the UM with an extra complete hotend, as some people keep one for using PLA and the other one for using ABS. But it shouldn't be necessary if you clean it when you do the switch.
About ABS, you might have good reasons to use it for 3D printing (such as higher temperature ressistance), but PLA has very similar characteristics and without a heated bed printing anything other than very small objects is next to impossible. You should be using ABS glue to stick it firmly to the bed (ABS + acetone or MEK).
And finally, you should also consider buying one or two extra blue tape rolls, as it might take you some time to find a local tape with the same texture.
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Silly me! I didn't realize it was there. Thanks.
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Actually, I was counting on your new slicer,
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I wanted to share what I am doing to improve printing speed.
I need to print objects like boxes, that have a sizable amount of downskins and upskins. So I use different layer heights for the external contour of 0.04 mm, internal countour of 0.08 mm and filling and downskin of 0.16 mm. Using double layer height is the equivalent of moving the print head at twice the speed in that region!
I am currently using NetFabb, which is the only slicer that allows for such setup. Using thick layered downskins is perfect for me as the objects I print have only downskins in the very bottom. The upskins are more complicated, as a thick layer height has the expected lower precision so if using thin contours sometimes leaves an upskin at a lower height with contours that climb like external walls (less than 0.16 mm, though).
So, I figured there could be three extra checkboxes in Cura, next to "duplicate outlines". One for doing the same with upskins (only the 1-2 outermost layers are printed at half height). One for downskins. And another one for doubling layer size inside (for a total of x4 the external layer size), that not only includes the filling, but upskins and downskins if they are thick enough.
Or just one extra checkbox, the last one that doubles layer size inside, even in downskins and upskins.
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Oh, so it's already there!
That tab shows a cursor, but I can't write anything. It only shows a log and I can move the cursor and copy the displayed text. But never write or paste my own text. I have tried disconnecting, connectring to the printer and during printing. When is it supposed to work? and do you need to add line numbers?
Actually, couldn't make the 3D view work in my computer, so I wouldn't be surprised the term does not work too.
And Joergen, I'll try print run. Thanks to you too.
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I have been looking into this problem, and at least some of it might be due to loose belts.
As you can only tighten them so much, does anybody know a good procedure for measuring hysteresis? And whether M98/M99 actually work?
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Settings depend on so many things it's difficult to compare between different machines and filaments used. Also, there are so many settings... but anyway, here it is:
I am using this black PLA filament and generating the code in NetFabb.
(Region, layer size, speed)
External contour: 0.04 mm, 25 mm/s.
Internal contour: 0.08 mm, 40 mm/s.
Downskin: 0.16 mm, 40 mm/s.
Upskin: 0.08 mm, 40 mm/s.
Filling: 0.16 mm, 60 mm/s, one line evely 4 mm (that's 10%).
The first layer is printed at 50% speed and no fan.
My extruder (the upgraded version) is perfectly calibrated at 844 steps/mm.
Using duble layer sizes for the filling and downskin makes it much faster to print without any external difference. But you currently can't do that in Cura.
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I don't really know if this feature is already there. I just couldn't find it.
It would be interesting to have a simple console for sending gcode commands directly to the printer. It should also display the responses, to be able to query for configurations. This would allow faster set up and callibration, as otherwise you must write the code in a notepad, save it in the SD card, insert the SD in the UC, and finally run the code. And then rinse and repeat.
In its simplest form, it should be very easy to implement.
An extra feature would be to be able to see the lines of gcode that have not been sent to the printer and be able to pause and insert commands in realtime (with the only lag being the buffer in the printer).
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A nice feature would be to be able to access the SD card directly from the computer (and not through the serial port). Maybe adding an extra usb port in the UC that when connected mounts the SD card as an extra removable storage device?
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Back to reversing the stepper, have you tried using negative steps/mm? As in:
M92 X-78It could work and does not mess with the wiring.
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Thank you for your fast reply and for changing the sort criterion.
And I know, there is little space now for anonymity in the net. Ressistance is futile...
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Yo me encuentro en la zona de CABA.
Si nos conectamos podemos intercambiar experiencias, partes y soluciones más fácilmente!
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rbc1225 don't forget we all have different profficiencies. And vector graphics manipulation is not very high in the skill list for building/operating the UM.
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I see that the new furum is up and the old one is unreachable now.
The thing is that there are no posts from the old forum since february, which is a pity since there were some good posts in there. I hope you will transfer these posts to this forum rather rooner than later.
Also I see that all sections are accessible from the main page and some overlapping topics have been merged, which is a great. Just one more thing, I would move the whole 'General Ultimaker Discussions' group up in the page, between 'Community' and 'hardware'.
As regards to the interface itself, I see all this fancy Tweet and FB stuff but I can't find a way of ordering the replies by date (and not by inverse date). Call me old fashioned, but I think a good forum needs to be a useful forum. Not a FB page.
I personally care about my privacy, and I actually do not like you sharing any information with any third parties (i.e.: FB). I know posting in a forum is making it public, but I dont want it to make it easier for them. This is just my opinion and I will understand that you procced with what the majority of the community prefers.
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I wanted to ask for some features in the Ulticontroller for the next firmware upgrade. I don't know where to post this, so I'll post it here and invite the community to add their own requests.
- More forecasts: printing time left (for obvious reasons) and filament length left (for guessing if the small filament you have left is enough to finish the job!). I know this will require the whole gcode file to be pre-processed.
- An easily accesible function that retracts the filament, moves the nozze to a corner and waits for a key press to resume: Something similar to 'pause at height' or 'change filament at Z' plugins, only that you could run it in an unexpected emergency. It does not need to work perfectly, I mean it for solving emergencies.
I don't know if there is even any possibility that the Ulticontroller's firmware will be changed, but what the.. I just wanted to make my suggestions anyway! :-P
- More forecasts: printing time left (for obvious reasons) and filament length left (for guessing if the small filament you have left is enough to finish the job!). I know this will require the whole gcode file to be pre-processed.
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If most of the noise is generated by acceleration of the printhead, NetFabb lets you manually set the maximum acceleration in the extended setup of the machine. Its default is 7 m/s2, so you can lower it and see if the noise goes down. Of course the build time will go up, depending on how many changes in direction and speed are needed.
I have little experience with other slicers.
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Thank you all guys for your responses!
It's a relief to know I wasn't doing something wrong.I printed the same objects using Cura 12.12A and got the exact same dimension as with NetFabb, so I confirm Cura is not correcting for small holes either. I'll try slic3r and KS.
About the packing density, NetFabb v4.9.5 calls it "calibration Fine tuning ("filament packing density")". It's a confusing name, as smaller numbers give less extrusion, so it works as flow rate. I was using 2.90mm diameter and 84% density for that cheap clear PLA. The filament actually measures (2.92+-2) mm, but at 84% the extrusion was well calibrated. When I changed to pigmented PLA I had to turn the flow rate up again to 100%.
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Could it be that when you measure the filament you use more force for straightening it and it is stretched more?
Are you using the same segment for the measurements over and over? My guess is that the first time the filament crosses the wheel it might get stretched a tiny bit due to the marks and pressure (as in cold forming), but it should be very little.
What part of the machine are you using as a reference for marking the filament? the bowden tube quick release has some wiggle, so take that in consideration.
I'm out of ideas...
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Hi everyone,
I am having a strange problem. The parts I build have very accurate measurements on the outside, but the holes are smaller than expected. I printed some test parts with Netfabb, 2.9mm and a filament packing density of 84%:
All holes have a diameter about 1.2mm smaller, independent of hole size. The small object on the left is odd because its circular groove has the convex border with the right measurement, but the concave is 1.2mm smaller, so the groove itself is 0.6mm thinner.
Does anyone know how to correct this? Is this hardware or software related?
Thanks!
PS: the picture was taken up close, so it presents some optical distortion (the straight borders look round).
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Cora: organic in a chemical context just means molecules with only carbon and hydrogen ("petrol derivatives"). Sugars and proteins are biological compounds. Wikipedia says it's not more toxic than acetone, but dissolves latex gloves, so nitrile or rubber gloves should be used. It is highly flammable, as most of the other commonly used solvents, so it should be used in a well ventilated room. For breathing protection, any mask with disposable cartridges should be enough. But make sure the disposable cartridge specifically stops THF or organic compounds. Some protection glasses would diminish eye irritation and protect you in case of ingition (just joking, but you never know!).
I personally have used sandpaper, a sanding sponge for those arbitrary contours and polishing paste + cloth.
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You can take away the bowden tube, put the filament in the motor, make a mark in the filament and run this code:
G91 ;relative positioningG1 E100 F300 ;extrude 100mm at half max speedG90 ;absolute positioning
Make a second mark in the filament, take it away and measure it. I suggest extruding 1000mm of filament in order to get better precision.
And tell us the outcome of your calibration!
It's a relief to know I wasn't doing something wrong.
Help needed! Study related questions to hobby 3d printing enthusiasts
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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I bought the printer for making working prototypes to speed up the development phase. I also printed an original that was carefully finished by hand and are currently making moulds for epoxi resin/PU.