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pablobell

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Everything posted by pablobell

  1. You can plug the Ultimaker to your computer using the USB cable, run Cura, press the print button and in the print window, on the rightmost tab you get a console. Type any gcode on the lower box and press enter to send the instruction to the printer. Use "M106 S255" to turn the fan completely on, and "M106 S0" to turn it completely off. If you are using a tester, you should either turn it completely on or off, but nothing in between, as it will mess up the readings. For other codes, look at http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code
  2. I am thinking about the other end of the complexity scale. I want a redesigned print carriage that has the option to take away the Bowden tube and put the filament feeder right above the nozzle. I know it will print much slower in order not to break the printer, but it will allow to print very soft materials such as FilaFlex. The project can be completed by a single person in less than a week. But the thing is I don't have the time to do it. And there are other people willing to design something looking for ideas. So I should be able post the idea easily (without a very complex setup), upload
  3. In the new design page: Add design subcategories such as (for 3Dprinter parts and upgrades): printer, feeder, extruder, axis alignment, filament holder, hot bed, fan shroud, tools, other. Add a community-based way of changing the categories/tags of current designs, such as voting for changes. suggest tags (per category) so that if you select "3Dprinter parts and upgrades" you would see some buttons showing the most common tags, such as: Ultimaker, Ultimaker 2, Prusa, etc. Add a link to the definition of the different licenses next to the selection box.
  4. As thing are now, there are too many designs in "3D printer parts and upgrades" that are anything but. And I guess it's because that category is the default and some people might just not change it. Oh, and some sort of moderation for categories and especially tags (I have seen tag spamming on Thingiverse) would be very welcome too.
  5. New standards are not adopted if they are not somehow enforced. The site could suggest to add both STL and AMF files. If only STL files are uploaded, the site could automatically generate AMF files, so that these are also available for download. The visitors would see AMF files and start to use them too! Regarding the lack of print settings, a text file with the design's information/instructions could be automatically added to the zip file for downlad (or even also to the documents list).
  6. Very nice site! here goes my 2 cents: Merge the experiences of looking for objects <-> generating/sharing ideas <-> solving ideas. So I suggest using only one type "Design/idea" that can have different Status (open, in development, prototype, finished...), Description, Instructions (for building), inspiration/ancestors (references to other designs and also text in bullet points, external links if you dare!), Suggested improvements/solutions (so that anyone can add and collaborators also edit them), files, Comments. When pressing "Add new design" if you were already viewing a d
  7. Problem solved!! It was a factory problem. The ressistor R20 had a bad solder point. I would post the picture, but I don't know how to attach a picture. Thank you Gr5! Thanks to you I could rule out the transistor and then reach R20. And BTW, pin 8 in the schematic is actually pin 7 in the Arduino and the UM board. I guess it's a typo in the 1.5.7 schematic. Edit; Here it is!
  8. These are my results: (the usb cable is alway disconnected. Only the power cable is plugged in) [*]With the fan connected but turned off, I measured 19V at the power supply plug, PWM1 and PWM2, then 0V at ground (bottom in the picture) and unexpectedly -1.8V at the base.[*]With the fan turned on (at 255) using the ulticontroller, there are no voltage changes. [*]Disconnecting the fan lowers PWM1 to +2V, but the base is still at -1.8V. [*]With the board power switch turned off (the rocker switch), I measured 0.03V at PWM2 (=VCC2), 0V at PWM1 and ground, but still -1.4V at the base. Unpl
  9. Great insight Illuminati! I had that problem many times, and could only diminish it by increasing the infill percentage, so that the gaps were shorter. Now I realize why so many people use bigger/more cooling fans.
  10. That was a fast response. Thank you very much Gr5! My board is version 1.5.7, but comparing both schematics there doesn't seem to be any differences in that area. So the new transistor is ok. And yes, I had Q4 replaced. As soon as the current print job is finished I will start testing again, and report back.
  11. Hi everyone, as the title says, the printhead fan suddenly stopped working. I tested the fan with a second power source and is ok, as well as the blue/violet cable that connects it to the board. I measured 0 volts at the board pins (where the blue/violet cable is plugged), even after turning the fan on with the ulticontroller or sending "M106 S255" commands. This problem persists after updating the firmware to the one released with Cura 13.06.4. I feared I pressed the lid too tight and broke the BD679 transistor. So I had a guy check it and he said it was "open" and changed it for the
  12. As Ultimaking suggests using Thingiverse as repository I wanted to share the concern of some core developers in the RepRap community. Joseph Prusa even took all his obects and left Thingiverse. He left a notice. The site license (as of today) says: Their description in "plain English": The people argue that Thingiverse can do whatever it wants with your stuff, regardless of the license you selected. Even selling your designs and incorporating them in other projects with other licenses (things that the CC does not allow). See this thread: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,155484
  13. You are asking the company to disclose delicate information. I know you are well intended, but don't expect a direct answer. Two! I'm from Argentina and I know there is at least another one here.
  14. Come on guys! They bought the future ebay for half a billion. We have seen it in the 90s: in the web, the first leading portal takes all.
  15. The flow depends on the difference in pressure between the inside of the nozzle and the outside. If the nozzle is put closer to the previous layer (from 0.4 to 0.2mm), the melted PLA finds increased ressistance outside the nozzle, which increases the pressure outside the nozzle, and reduces overall flow. It's like the difference between extruding a big blob in mid air and spreading the same amount of material over a long distance. The latter would have more ressistance. Or at least that´s what I think. Also, in theory when printing a wall at 0.4mm layer size the newly deposited PLA would hav
  16. Daid has a good point. A layer size thicker than 80% the nozzle size is too much, as you wil be close to dropping the melted plastic in mid air. That means not more than 0.32mm for the UM nozzle. If that is not the issue, then try rotating the object, slicing again and printing. Did the hole move with the object? Then cut a slice from the bottom of the object with your CAD/NetFabb, so that the object gets thinner. Slice and print. Did the hole move?
  17. I have insulated the transmission of vibrations between the fan and the rest of the machine by adding small pieces of EVA to all the bolts in the fan and original cover and also sanding the plywood in order not to touch the fan. It works two ways: The fan's sound is not amplified by the case and also the fan is subjected to less vibration, making it quieter. It makes a big difference and it's really easy to implement. Actually, that could come standard in all new UMs. Just make the cover's hole for the fan 1 mm wider, and add some vibration absorbing washers. Softer spacers (white tubes) woul
  18. It said 'contact your host' but I don't know where to. So I guess posting here is allright.
  19. I have insulated the transmission of vibrations between the fan and the rest of the machine by adding small pieces of EVA to all the bolts in the fan and original cover and also sanding the plywood in order not to touch the fan. I also took away all the tape I had put around the fan duck. It is not needed. The insulation works two ways: The fan's sound is not amplified by the case and also the fan is subjected to less vibration, making it quieter. It makes a big difference and it's really easy to implement. Actually, that could come standard in all new UMs. Just make the cover's hole for the
  20. I have insulated the transmission of vibrations between the fan and the rest of the machine by adding small pieces of EVA to all the bolts in the fan and original cover and also sanding the plywood in order not to touch the fan. I also took away all the tape I had put around the fan duck. It is not needed. The insulation works two ways: The fan's sound is not amplified by the case and also the fan is subjected to less vibration, making it quieter. It makes a big difference and it's really easy to implement. Actually, that could come standard in all new UMs. Just make the cover's hole for the
  21. I have insulated the transmission of vibrations between the fan and the rest of the machine by adding small pieces of EVA to all the bolts in the fan and original cover and also sanding the plywood in order not to touch the fan. I also took away all the tape I had put around the fan duck. It is not needed. The insulation works two ways: The fan's sound is not amplified by the case and also the fan is subjected to less vibration, making it quieter. It makes a big difference and it's really easy to implement. Actually, that could come standard in all new UMs. Just make the cover's hole for the
  22. When Cura starts, a popup window shows this message 'Attempt to retrieve context when no valid context', and then the 3D view is completely white. This does not prevent the slicer from working perfectly. The 3D view is mostly cosmetic, and you can load an object, prepare and print it using the File menu. According to Daid, this issue happens in some ATI Radeon cards, and is already reported at https://github.com/daid/Cura/issues/393.
  23. I find brims really easy to remove with just a knife.
  24. For most parts just a cutter works perfectly. A single-cut file also helps. If I want to preserve the PLA color, I use sand paper, then polishing paste + cloth. For painted parts, I start with sand paper then add filling with a spatula. Actually, I don't know how it's called in English, but it's that paste you add to the walls and then sand before applying the paint. It's like plaster. Then more sanding and finally acrylic aerosol paint (for looks and in place of polishing). The same aerosol paint reacts chemically with policarbonate but not with PLA. I need polished parts as originals for m
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