lrodriguez
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3D Prints
Posts posted by lrodriguez
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But that's probably fine, as you are now only targeting professionals.
Incorrect, this tool is open to everyone! Ultimaker has so many models to choose from, based on your budget and level of need. I'd suggest spending time with one. Being open will mean the community will continue to test and improve everything.
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Have you guys seen this article? What do you think? I think these methods would work for many students! The descriptions for the project is below:
Link to summary blog post
Often students with visual impairments have difficulty with concepts based on visual/spatial relationships, particularly in math and science. 3D prints offer an unprecedented asset for their teachers, and 3D printers are becoming affordable. But these teachers need help designing models. [Whosawhastis] and I have been volunteer mentors to various groups working on figuring out the best ways to use 3D printing for the visually impaired. Our goal with this project is to document some simple, practical conventions for designing models, and lay the groundwork so that interested parties can create the needed designs. We know that schools have 3D printers and want to teach design thinking to their students. This project creates a minimalist open-source way to link teachers who need design files and (sighted) students who want projects to do. We want students to create the designs for the needed models, learning science, math and other subjects while helping their visually-impaired peers.-
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What firmware did you use/modify? Tinkergnome? Did you use DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT = 456 for the extruder?
Just yesterday I saw the Titan used on a GO in the factory location for the drive and it printed flexible just fine. Did you try that first?
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It is the new price
So what makes it + model?
ED
It has the UM2+ electronics, which does away with any thermocouple amplifier boards on top of the head. Also the exact same heated bed in the UM2, new z motor with an integrated lead screw. Also lots of added safety feature thanks to the CE compliance. So another layer of lasercut wood around the extruder gears preventing pinched fingers and a nice metal fan shroud that also surrounds the hot end.
You can see the features on the product page. It is really a deal. it also means you are now able to do any of the UM2 mods people have come up with, including the 2+ extrusion upgrade kit. Neotko knows a thing or two about that!
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I cannot access RoBo3D's forums.
You can still read the content of the site, you only need a login to post. Good luck!
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The one on the previous model is printed in plates for assembly, which is still cool!
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It looks like the designer created for a user who commented on a previous design. It seems to be designed for a dual extrusion setup with PVA, according to the user request. I can't really tell if it would tolerate print in place.
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Thanks for the input. This is a brand new printer. I'm aware of the print speeds, I was just curious what experiences some of the users here have had as far as max prints speeds without substantially affecting print quality. For example, the printer I have now is rated for 100mm/s but can not reliably print anywhere near those speeds. More like 30mm/s reliably. Thanks for replying so quickly.
After working with the 2+ I can confidently echo what Sander says about it being even more reliable of a machine, and more powerful feeder. I think the price is worth it but it is your wallet. If you are comfortable with installing parts then it won't be an issue either way. If you can manage it, order it now, plug in one cord and start!
What do you plan on printing? My advice to learning is to print something daily, learn by failing, often!
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On UM2 you have 25W free to use since originally it was intended to support dual extrusion. The board can handle 19-24V stuff. 3Dsolex sells 35W heaters for um2.
Also available here in U.S.: http://gr5.org/store/index.php/um/ultimaker2-hot-end-heater-35w.html
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The PSU on an UM2 is 24V, 9.2A, 221W Max. 19V refers to the Ultimaker Original.
The UM2 heater cartridge is 24V, 25W. I suppose you could try a higher wattage but I'm not sure how much amperage is actually free to try this.
I edited this to show you that you can buy a 35W replacement: http://gr5.org/store/index.php/um/ultimaker2-hot-end-heater-35w.html
Original
http://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-2-spare-parts/products/heater-cartridge-24v-25w
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Don't forget the Doodle3D box. You can send a print over it's wifi now. But very cool, I will have to try it out.
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What is the desire here? What benefit does this have for you? Not taking out the SD card?
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Well, it uses the same bed and electronics as the UM2, so many benefits there. It is one board and requires no fan. The other benefit is the use of the PT100 sensor. So now the head doesn't need all the thermocouple boards on the head etc... Much cleaner appearance. The covered gear in the back on the feeder and the metal housing are safety features as a result of the CE certification. But also since the bed is from the UM2 it has a Z Stepper with an integrated acme thread rod which moves a ton faster. It really changes the whole feeling of the printer. You will be very happy with the machine.
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Grinding down a screw is safer than using a counter sink on a PCB you can't buy.
Screws are a dime a dozen! While you wait for a replacement of course. -
Patience is a virtue.
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Always check with support first, before even posting here. They are there to help! As for the screws I'd take those screws and hit them to a grinder.
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Can somebody send me some profiles to try? I have Netfabb and the first initial runs of the installed profiles were not good. It's just my own inexperience with the software.
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The new UM2 has one 24V PSU. I would email support for time scales. I would imagine they will be busy beavers getting UM2's assembled and shipped.
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I would not add anything printed to this beautiful machine. We talked at Maker Faire that all it would take is a manual extrude in the screen like "Prepare | move axis"
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Tape, use tape wrapped around your hand and presto, clean case.
Print cores
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
The only maintenance currently addresses is cleaning the BB Core.
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23132-maintaining-the-bb-print-core
I can echo the using every material not needing an atomic pull. I was surprised. Some folks are still doing it out of routine maintenance.