Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

Personal Information

  • Country

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I took a bunch of metal plates, 1.0mm each and stacked them before performing the test again. The head didn't collide with the plates so the sensor is working in some way.FYI: I couldn't adjust a smaller gap with the screws that's why I used a stack of metal plates. Altering the wires didn't help so next I'll dismantle the unit and solder the connection on the board ... to be continued
  2. So I did.... De sensor werkt matig. Bij problemen met actieve kalibratie gaat U naar Ultimaker.com/ER45 So...things to check this evening:-) like on the following redirected adress: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011576000 Smitty, thanks for the tip. this looks promessing:-)
  3. I'll run the level sensor diagnostic tomorrow, (won't be home because I'm at the Fablab tonight). I'll also run the manual leveling and make pictures from the proces. There is a moment where I'm asked to make use of the calibrationcard. At that moment, the gap between nozzle and buildplate is more than I can adjust . there is still more than 4mm to go before I reach a gap of 1.2mm.
  4. @Smitty tnxx. The error existentiële after automatic leveling. the big gap while levering manual. This was never A problemen earlier. The story in pur Fablab is that the problems exist after upgrading the SW.
  5. Hi All, I'm encountering calibration problems. I tried to calibrate manually, but at the moment I need to adjust the gap with the calibration card I'm confronted with a gap>4.0mm. For the record: when calibrating automatically, the endresult is a message to check my nozzle or the buildplate. the glass plate is shiny clean and the nozzle is empty and clean. Reading and searching for similar problems/topics with solutions, is not getting me very happy with all of the SW problems. And even when I want to load an older version it seems not to be possible, is it? I realy
  6. Another tip: at first you put in your nozzle up to the aluminium heaterblock, then screw the brass bolt in the PEEK part. Heavy ? Take it out and cut the thread inside. Screw the brass bolt and PEEK assembly into the heaterblock Dis-assemble in reversed order.
  7. That's a good solution, but don't get fooled: The nozzle with 0.6 stamped on it is actually 0,8mm and intended to be used for MIG/MAG welding material ( as Titus already mentioned.) which is 0,6mm in diameter. So, if the nozzle is 0,6 mm, that would't fit. The 0,8 is actually 1,0mm and the 1,0 is 1,2mm. Rooie Joris printed a life size elephant with a 0,8 nozzle in 4 UMO's:-) No problem at all, if you change the diameter to the right dimensions in Cura, I printed 1,5kg filament with it without cooling problems. (original fan housing) If you have a M6 threadcutterplate, you can also cut the
  8. :cool: Tnxx guys... Indeed, piece of cake. Wrong NTC, but that's no problem (10K instead of 100K) new ones are on the way as we speak...
  9. Ok Johnny, I'm on the track and downloaded it without bothering the questions in my head:-) Can't wait to try, tnxx for your input.
  10. :-D Tnxx for filling my weekend with things I didn't planned to do.......:-D Luckily we had some extra days this weekend, love to dig into it, but there are too many questions too answer for now. I have two workshops in our fablab to prepare, I need to translate several pages from a manual for someone who doesn' t read English and a very busy week at work ahead. I will go the whole ten yards, but working for my boss, assisting and leading workshops at the lab and two hours traveling time a day, fills my week with 70-80 hours at the moment. So for now i'll have to find someone who is will
  11. Hey Robert, I did try. Although the program indicated there was no update for my configuration. Shouldn't it already ready for the HB in 14.01?? Good point though, I'll upgrade to the latest version too. To be continued...
  12. Read almost all the of the heated bed topics but didn't find an answer... I'm running Cura 14.01, Repeated first run wizard, Did also the [Machine settings], [Heated bed] option, In Cura [Heated temperature] 55ºC Soldered a 4K7 resistor to the board on R4, (measured with my Fluke if it makes descent contact) and if it still is 4K7 Ohm. I sliced an object with the heated bed options on. I don't get an indication of the heated bed temperature on my ulticontroller. What am I doing wrong or where should I look? Anyone? Tnxx, Boy
  13. 12much

    hulp gevraagd

    @Ron&Lia bedankt voor het compliment, ik schuif hem door naar de KF:-D ++1 - Dat is een hele goeie. Ik ben alleen bang dat er niet voor gekozen is om te voorkomen dat het de hoofd afdeling op het forum gaat worden en dat is niet zo leuk voor het internationale publiek hier. Maar dat hoeft nog geen reden te zijn om het toch niet uit te voeren voor het overgrote deel van de Nederlandse deelnemers hier. Misschien is het een compromis, om je vraag om verduidelijking/vertaling van de Engelse tekst gewoon in het Nederlands te stellen. Dat kunnen onze buitenlandse lezers natuurlijk ook in
  14. 12much

    hulp gevraagd

    je relaas aanhorend is de tip van Xeno, het opmeten met een schuifmaat, je eerste doel. Toevallig heb ik net twee verschillende gevallen onder behandeling. 1 bij een rol van de Kaasfabriek, de ander bij een nieuwe klant van een Classic, die zijn eerste prints om en om ziet veranderen in luchtledige prints met soms een wirwar van draadjes en soms helemaal niets. Controleer vooraf de afstelling van de veerdruk op het filament. Ik kan je helaas niet uitleggen hoe dat bij de II moet. Eén advies, hang je rol op zijn eigen houder, trek er 5 - 10 meter van af. Zet het begin met plakband stevig vas
  15. De Kaasfabriek got it too and it was running almost the whole afternoon, while we where building 5 Ultimakers. I showed a shy 5 year old kid how it works and he was The Man whole day, explaining how it works to the visitors, which included a 90 year old Grande Dame also:) I see some difference. I told mine the filament is 2.85 and the printhight 0.1mm. The speed could be higher also the temperature. Mine was set at 230ºC automatically. Not much tinkering, but maybe it'll make the difference. We where printing with UM's white PLA, some babyblue and black. The first layer should stick!! So try
  • Create New...