[Help with modifying fanducts]

Using those fans a few day's now, working perfectly !

Using it with http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45236, so the fan's don't toch the bushing blocks.

Thank you for sharing !

 

[Cura 13.06.4 support material issue]

Hello all,

When I use Cura 13.06.3 and/or 13.06.4, I found a strange suport material issue.

I've set the support material amount in Cura to 30%, the place of the support material, in relation to the object, seems misplaced.

Anyone has the same issue?

Regards,

Harold

 

[Who can print 6 Fisher-price-explorer-wheels for me?]

Maybe I can help you with the wheels.

If you can send me the 3D file (split up in wheel and tire), I can give you a price for it.

I'm living in the southern of the Netherlands, so sending it to you won't be a big issue.

Regards,

Harold Reedijk

 

[Print issue with heated bed]

No problem, hope I can help....

Yes, I'm using the Ulticontroller and a relay to control my HBP.

I'm running the latest firmware 1.5.7 and it's working fine.

I'm using a separate power supply for the HBP also.

Regards,

Harold

 

[Fixing Pulley Innacuracy]

Count me in for the next batch!

Currently rebuilding my UM within a aluminium frame, one of the missing parts are the pulley's!.

I'd like a full set (10x8, 2x5).

Regards,

Harold

 

[Ultimaker DIY design and official part resource]

Here are 2 more 3D models:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29513

Below with direct drive modification:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10956

Regards,

Harold

 

[ultimaker-space in Fablab013 Tilburg (NL)]

I'll definitely come around!

Regards,

Harold

 

[Print issue with heated bed]

Well, It seems the elephant foot nearly has been gone....

I'll keep tweaking on it, but it's at a acceptable level now.

Thank you Owen for your time and patience!

Regards,

Harold

 

[Print issue with heated bed]

I've taken Owens advise to use kapton tape, I had a roll laying around of 200mm wide.

Last night I've made the same print, with heatbed at 70C, nozzle at 210C, fan at 25% and a speed of 60mm/s.

Result was even worse then before so I made a few tests with the temps and fan.

After those tests I can conclude that using the fan (in my case) is the main cause of the elephant foot.

Eventually I came close to the result I want to have.

In the pictures below I've used a heatbed temp of 54C, nozzle at 210C, no fan and a speed of 35mm/s.

Tonight I'll try not to set the first layer to be thicker that the other layers.

See how that will turn out.

Keep you posted.

Regards,

Harold

 

[Print issue with heated bed]

What temp do you advise for PLA and ABS with a mirror and kapton tape?

Regards,

Harold

 

[Print issue with heated bed]

So if I understand it correctly, I need to to place kapton tape on the mirror glass.

I can perfectly level my bed, got a dial gauge for that.

I'll use kapton tape this evening, I'll post the results back here.

Thanx Owen!

Regards,

Harold

 

[Print issue with heated bed]

Hello everyone,

I've got a question about printing with a heated bed.

On the photo's you can see that the print is not straight upwards.

No matter what I set on temp on the nozzle or bed, I'm keeping the same results.

If I set the bed lower than 60 C , the filement won't stick to the mirror anymore.

If I set the temp higher, the first layer will melt to much and having a sharp 0.1mm edge as result.

I also tried to print with the fan on, the result was even worse than on the photo's.

The print on the photo's was made with a nozzle temp of 210 C and with a bed temp of 62 C with filament of Faberdashery, color pearl white and printing with the fan off.

Has anyone any idea where to look to get the print straight?

Regards,

Harold

 

[Need firmware hex file with heated bed]

I don’t know about the red light, I didn’t looked at it....

There must be something wrong with the thermistor or the connectors.

 

[Need firmware hex file with heated bed]

Do I understand you correctly, you do see a room temperature on the UM controller, measured by the thermistor?

If you do, check if you got the relay connected the right way, see the schematics below (also the + and - from the terminal block):

Regards,

Harold

 

[Need firmware hex file with heated bed]

Hello spiruline,

I think you need to twist the wires of your thermistor on the PCB board.

I also control the heatbed by the pcb with a relay.

Regards,

Harold

 

[Need firmware hex file with heated bed]

Hello spiruline,

 

 

When my UM controller went blanc, I've installed the default firmware back with Cura.

 

Below the link of the hex file I use now:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1911369/Shared%20Files/UM_1.5.7_with_heatbed_firmware.zip

 

I cannot give any guarantee that it will work on your UM, but if you have a 'regular' 100K thermistor and a PCB version of 1.5.7, it should work.

 

Let me know if it did.

 

 

Regards,

 

Harold

 

[Need firmware hex file with heated bed]

Thank you gr5.

I've tried it and got it working now.

When I uploaded the firmware to the UM with Arduino IDE, the ulticontroller keeps blanc serveral times

when powered on.

At the end I've got it working.

Regards,

Harold

 

[Need firmware hex file with heated bed]

Can anyone help me?

I've installed a MK2a heated bed on my UM, the only thing left is a firmware ajustment so I actually can use it.

I've already installed the latest firmware file on my UM that came with Cura 13.03.

Unfortunatly Daid's builder is offline, so I cannot create the new firmware file, with heated bed activated, the easy way.

I've searched across many forms how to create it manually, I'm lost.

What I can find are only pieces of what to do, not the complete actions to do.

Does anyone have a good description how to build the needed firmware, or even better, has a hex file that I can upload to my UM.

(I use a regular 100K thermistor).

Regards,

Harold