hreedijk
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Posts posted by hreedijk
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ALL PARTS ARE SOLD
Hello all,
I'm using other hot-ends on my UMO then the stock hot-end, therefore I've got some parts for sale.
So instead let them laying around and have no use for it, perhaps someone else could use them.
They are all new parts and never been used.
The price for the items are:
Nozzle (0.4mm) € 12,00
Peek & Hot-end Isolator Tube € 25,00
Aluminium Heater Block € 12,50
Hot-End Isolator Coupler € 12,50 each
Clear acrylic mounting plate € 01,00 each
Black strain relief € 01,00 each
Black lever € 01,50
Complete package € 75 ex. shipping (shipping from the Netherlands)
When a part has been sold I'll edit this topic accordingly.
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Most of the time the auto slicing feature is no issue, but like Peggy said already, with large complex models it becomes really slow or even hangs for a minute.
If there would be an option to manually set it of (and automatically switch it back on after a restart of Cura, it would be nice.
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I even look at objects and think "do I really need to buy that or can I print that myself?"
I'm getting worried.... :roll:
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It is indeed a bit dangerous.
My first thought it would break at the layers, the first 2 cylinders just cracked because of bad layer adhesion.
But the third one had a very good layer adhesion, so well that it just exploded randomly at the cylinder, not at all at the layers, shards shots everywhere.
We took 2 cardboards with a total thickness of 12 mm and made a hole for the camera, just to protect our self.
The explosion does indicate that, when you have good layer adhesion, it will make a strong solid part which can handle a lot of weight.
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Thanx Didier, it is indeed great stuff, more test will follow when I have the time to finish the layer adhesion tool....
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Thanx, I should take a look at their website before asking here.....
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Can you guy's give me some info on this kind of plate?
Which materials will stick to it (non heated):
PLA;
ABS;
WoodFill;
BronzeFill;
XT;
Filaflex;
Nylon;
ect.?
Thanx in advance.
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Thanx for keeping us up to date drayson......
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Sure Nicolinux, here they are:
layer_height = 0.12
wall_thickness = 0.8
retraction_enable = True
solid_layer_thickness = 1
fill_density = 100
nozzle_size = 0.4
print_speed = 50
print_temperature = 242
print_bed_temperature = 58
support = None
platform_adhesion = Brim
filament_diameter = 2.86
filament_flow = 100
retraction_speed = 40
retraction_amount = 4.5
retraction_min_travel = 1.5
retraction_combing = True
retraction_minimal_extrusion = 0.02
retraction_hop = 0.2
bottom_thickness = 0.2
object_sink = 0
travel_speed = 150
bottom_layer_speed = 40
infill_speed = 0.0
inset0_speed = 0.0
insetx_speed = 0.0
cool_min_layer_time = 7
fan_enabled = True
skirt_line_count = 4
skirt_gap = 3.0
skirt_minimal_length = 150.0
fan_full_height = 1
fan_speed = 30
fan_speed_max = 30
cool_min_feedrate = 0
cool_head_lift = False
solid_top = True
solid_bottom = True
fill_overlap = 18
spiralize = False
simple_mode = False
brim_line_count = 10
fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = True
fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False
fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False
fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False
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Let me know your progress, good you get rid of the blobs.
I have combing enabled though, but if it helps with your printer....
Printed this part yesterday evening with XT orange:
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thanx, jou just found my ego :rolleyes:
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I just received an XT sample pack and it seems as if the colored XT is really printing a little different. I usually printed at 240-247°C, 0.2mm layers at 50 mm/s and had perfect adhesion to the bed between 70-80°C.
The only thing that really gives me a headache is the retraction, I used the standard settings and the recommended settings from ColorFabb. Usually I get hard spots that haven't melted all the way and stick upwards. When the nozzle passes these areas the entire build platform wobbles and printing on these won't produce a nice print either. I usually printed with 100% fan since that was ok for most of my prints. I was actually able to bridge 40 mm without any problems.
I don't use Cura but Simplify3D instead, don't know if that matters at all.
Adding color to filament changes the material and yes, it prints a little bit different then XT transparent.
If you don't need the fan, switch it off or set as low as possible, your retractions will be better then.
About bridging, I've managed to print a bridge of 120mm during my tests with XT yellow, of course the print settings where tweaked for only that purpose.
Slicer shouldn't make a difference relating to the issue's you have.
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But I found that anything above a fan speed of ~40% with it and the head had difficulty holding it's temperature. So I tend to stick with 30% as "full on" I'm wondering whether it's something about white, as I had a lot of trouble printing with UM's white PLA. The silver on the other hand was perfect.... ??
From my experience, white and red needs more attention to print as for other colors.
Hmmm, so if I'm reading it right the nozzle cools off when the fan speed is higher then 40%, that could be an issue.
The flow direction of the outlets are aimed a bit on the nozzle then.
Did a little test on my UMO just now, when I prime my nozzle at 240C with XT, and blow a fan onto the nozzle, the XT curls upwards and sticks to the nozzle.
I use this fan mount on my UMO for XT:
It blows air 30 degrees toward the nozzle and straight down.
Did the same test as above, now with the fan I normally use set at full speed, primed the nozzle again with XT at 240C, it doesn't curl.
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No problem at all.
For the record, I don't have an UM2 but an UMO with modified fans.
When I look closely at the photo, and if it would be my print, I would check my nozzle if it is really clean, check if the diameter set in Cura is the same as measured, and set the fan's at full speed.
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Can anyone verify if black XT is opaque? I think black T-Glase is translucent, not opaque.
Yes it is.....
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I tried your settings Harold and this is the result I got. I watched while it printed. Part of the problem is the overhangs. XT curls up on the edges. So on the next pass of the head this curved up part is forced to flex downward, resulting in that (underside) surface becoming rough looking. Sometimes small blobs are picked off by the head and pushed around.
I've seen this curling on fill with a larger more complex print I did which had 30% fill. The edges of the fill wicked/flexed up and (generally looked terrible) When the head did its travel move over the fill, they had hardened enough for the head to bump into them giving the bed a noticable shake. You could hear the "thump" as well... which was a bit worrying...
Yesterday I printed out a large hollow cylindrical spacer (in XT) at 70mm/s, 240C, 0.2mm height, No fan and it came out absolutely perfectly. There were no overhangs or fill I guess.
I think if I can cure the "curling" I'm seeing I will be closer to getting XT printing more reliably. It seems to be a much fussier material to print with than PLA.
Any suggestions, anyone? :smile:
I wonder, does the infill touches the outer shell?
My infill overlap in Cura is set at 18% (not the standard 15%), and my travel speed is 150mm/s instead of 250mm/s.
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Looked up the Cura profile, temp was 236, layer height 0.1mm, speed 25 and fans at 75% speed (on my UMO with 40mm fans at both sides)
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Yes, with the newer XT transparent and the colored ones, although the colored version needs a bit higher temp.
Below 2 pictures of XT red and orange parts, mention the 2 Euro coin of the Marvin test print.....
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I already did at the beginning when foehnsturm posted that thread.
I've tried it but for me the only downside of that cooling system is that the cooling from the blowing side is good, the other a little less.
I also attached a kind of flow directioner onto the print-head but didn't get the results I wanted.
As I already mentioned, I only use cooling for small parts.
It's not that I'm actively seeking for an alternative cooling for my printer, only commented that I've tried aquarium air pumps :-)
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Sometimes I need to print a bunch of small industrial parts with XT that's needs to have very accurate dimensions.
As we all know, you get the best results when printing slow, I'm printing those small parts at 0.12mm layer height, speed 25 to 30mm/s at 232C/234C with fan speed set at 30/35.
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i would see a different issue;
not just the airflow but also the spread of air.
if you deliver this with a fan, you get 90 mm of airspread with a 90mm fan (approx). with a tube of 10mm, you will get very directed air.. but you want to cool a larger area.. this means you now have to put something on the front of your tube like a garden hose to "spread" the air again, making it noisy..
It could be, but if you print a big part you don't really need the cooling there, just close around the nozzle will do.
For more then 70% of my prints I don't use the fan at all, only for tiny prints the fan is switched on.
From my experience, a wide spread air flow attached on the printhead will not only cool the filament but also the heated bed and in worse case the nozzle itself.
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Just make sure you buy a "blower" and not a "fan". A fan has about 5 blades. A blower has about 50 blades. That's all you really need to know.
Thanks for the info, I didn't know that, just like Tommyph1208 exploring what kind of cooling fit's the best for my purpose.....
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Thanx for the link gr5, that's way to technical for me :-o
I've seen an aquarium pump from a friend of my that was capable of blowing air at 3600l/h with 4 tubes.
That blows really good, but the cost of € 139 is to much to even try it....
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I've tried that, out-coming air (400 l/h) is enough for XT and big prints, but not for tiny prints and prints that need a lot of cooling.......
Hacking UM to cut stuff...
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
I wish I had your knowledge about this cool hack ! :???: