3dcase
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Posts posted by 3dcase
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Hi all,
can somebody please point me in the right direction.
Using Cura 13.11, and printing with support 'Touching Buildplate'.
I want my support material a little closer to the main object, so when I reduce the x.y from 0.7 to 0.2. I suspect a bigger support area and closer to the object.
Apparently Cura thinks the other way around :shock: .
I'm trying to quit smoking and might think in the wrong direction :mrgreen: , so better check first before reporting a bug.
Regards Kees
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I'm working in Cura 13.11, but i guess partly the same problem.
Combing is enabled, retraction is set, min. extr, before retraction =0.0.
Printhead moves while filling the four corners, the shortest way from one to the other corner, without retraction.
That's a little lie, sometimes it retracts but have'nt found exactly when and why?
See if I can upload the gcode somewhere. Renaming from .gcode to jpg was a to simply tric :(
Edit..
http://3dcase.eu/Zooi/LampPart8.gcode
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Hi,
I'm struggling with this retraction thing as well, pretty sure my 13.11 doesn't retract atl al blue lines, even the 50mm long ones and with more than 0.5mm feeded filament.
But why? I don't know jet, still observing what happens.
But on the picture of your fanshroud, It looks to me that 90% of the stringing is because of the steep overhang.
I assume You've printed it with the fan mount facing down. So the inner wall perimeter is not touching the lower layer enough. The shrinking makes it even look worse.
But some of the strings, for sure the ones crossing straight from one side to the other. are strange (Non)retraction things.
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Soooo.....
First of all: Again thank you Blecheimer, the fan shroud is on the way to PLA :smile:
Second: I managed to get access to a solidworks station and started an (ugly) attempt to come closer to the thing I have in mind.
A few minutes ago I published a work in progress on Thingiverse but honestly I have no idea if it is printable...
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:183223
Your comments are appreciated !!
Hi,
Made myself these 2 40mm fanducts for my dualextruder (Standard Umltimaker) printed in ABS.. the PLA ones only lasted 10 seconds
. Running around 30% gives enough flow. Better circulation around the print I guess,(Doing where they are made for) So 4 of your 25mm's are more than enough!... Guess you Might consider 1 on each side.
I do like the idea off that UM2 kind of Heatshield (I guess it is) under the heating blocks.
But when I'm printing dual colors it gets pretty messy sometimes :(.
Don't know what the UM2 users have experienced until now?, but I'm afraid of piles of burned Pla in between that shield.
Or it should be very easily removed....
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/40mm-fanducts-for-dual-extruder
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I don't see the enable combing checkbox in your settings, or is it gone when using a UM2?.
That should follow the the oustside lines back, instead of crossing the internal of the vase.
I'd like cura to retract at all blue lines when moving from one point to another, but I have not found a solution for that yet.
To avoid stringing I stiil have a 13.04 version, Might not work for a UM2, but the downpoint is 13.04 gives a large Z-seem.
(layershift on the same radial point).
Following this topic for other input
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Hi,
assuming you are using the latest cura version, and found the fill density settiing
You could can give a wider shell thickness, but if the model is hollow, you can only make it solid in you cad program.
Or take a look in the expert settings, and check a box at fix-horrible settings, might help, (Perhapssssss)...........
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It should do retraction before lifting the head...
I'm currently working on dual-extrusion stuff. One of the things is a wipe tower, which is a bit of the same as the trash bin. One of the issues I have with it right now is that it can topple over when your prints get high.
Ohhhhh, can't wait :cool:
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okeehj.. nice work
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haha... your the one guy who downloaded my tin tin rocket from youmagine? it's a nice one.!
An ultimaker+ ? than I don't know.
I find it pretty confusing already reading this forum with a UM2 around :shock:.
Could be there's a limit in cura.
Wait and See what others have to say..
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Hi,
I tried loading your gcode in cura, but its to big indeed.
would be a mess if cura would start printing.
The stl file is to big as well.
You could try to scale with the middle icon to the maximum size of your printer.
But I would try a steady factor ( with this stl) of 0.5. would be a height of 143.2 mm in my cura.
even less if you (with the settings of your Gcode) won't wait for 7 hours printtime.
And (seen this cloud before I Think) check the size of the spaceshuttle you want to put on top
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Solved,
motor connector had a wrong wiring....
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Hi there,
while helpdesking a new Ultimaker user.
One problem left.
Extruder motor is running backwards.
in cura printmenu. clicking on retract=extrude extrude is retract :shock:.
It's a new kit. running cura 13.11 on usbcable.
updated the firmware.
it's pretty difficult to put the wiring wrong way round.. but it looks that way.
any ideas?
Oeps, checking the ultimaker or ultimaker2 checkbox first...
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It's a bit tricky indeed... click on the link to get the source code page from github. There right-click on 'raw' and save the file... To be honest, as I'm new to github, I don't know yet if there is a more direct way...
EDIT: just found out and updated the link information above...
Thanks... it worked.. right click on your last link and saved as, worked..
it's in the curaplugin tab now.
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Oh oohw,
Like to use that updated tweak AtZ plug in.
But how to download it, from github? :oops:
Copied it pasted it renamed saved as a textfile, but won't show up in the cura plugin tab.
Can't download it as a file?
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That's
Heated bed mostly just helps with the sticking to the print bed. The temperature drops quickly as you move up. You will probably need to enclose your UM if you want to make a different that far up off the print bed. But, yes, a HB should help.
If you get a HB, consider also moving your X and Y steppers *outside* the UM (no holes need to be drilled, nothing needs to be purchased). It will be noisier though as the steppers will be touching the wood directly. You'll have to reverse the direction. One way to do that is to just build marlin with the axis direction reversed (checkboxes for that here):
http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/
Then cover the 3 open sides with plastic and the top with a big box (need space for the bowden). There you go - heated chamber.
That's a nice next project, when the PLA90 does not work.
I had in mind to build me something to mount the feeder on top of the printer on a kind of tripod (seen on thingiverse).
To shorten the Bowden tube, for printing the soft pla, that's a PITA now with the long bended tube.
Need to find a way to include your roof in that design.
But first finish the dual extruder printhead, than I need to try that roll of PVA as support material..
and then.. and then... need to have some payed prints ... and then pffffffffff :-P
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kijk nou moet het goed komen :-P nog een Dutchman, zag ik terwijl ik zat te typen
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Het klinkt of ie al bewogen heeft, lijkt me of niet?
De printkop volgt wel ongeveer het patroon wat je in cura ziet?
Met die ringen dingen bedoel je waarschijnlijk de polies? daar kan zo heel veel niet aan verkeerd.
Die polies zet je met de schroefjes vast, het enigste waar je op moet letten is dat de assen ( waar de printkop aan zit) recht zitten en dan op alle 4 assen de beide polies vastschroeven. Met recht zitten bedoel ik, netjes parallel aan een houten framerand, dat zou je kunnen meten.
Wat je wel goed moet checken, of je alle eindschakelaars hoort klikken, voordat er iets mechanisch vastloopt.
Ook de 2 van het platform, onderste en bovenste stand.
In Cura zit onder het tabblad 'Expert, een first run wizard, als je dat doorloopt komt er ook iets langs om te checken of de eindschakelaars goed aangesloten zijn en werken.
Dan zou ik eens kijken of je platform goed staat.
Ik zu dat eerst met de hand doen.
als je die lexan plaat op het platvorm schuift, moet je zorgen dat de 4 schroeven ongeveer een 2mm ingedraaid zijn.
Zodat de 4 veren die kunststof plaat op zijn plek houden.
Dan draai je met de hand de draadspindel tot je die boven schakelaar, Links aan de achterkant, hoort klikken.
Dat is de hoogte waarop de 1e laag geprint wordt.
Je moet dat zo af zien te stellen, dat je een stukje kopieer papier, tussen de nozzle en blauwe plakband kan schuiven.
Scheelt die afstand veel, dan kun je de schakelaar iets verschuiven, het fijne afstellen doe je met de 4 schroeven.
Als je die papier truc bij elke schroef doet, moet het goed komen.
Als laatste kun je ff checken met de handbediening vanuit het cura printmenu.
Die papiertruc moet je regelmatig doen, dat wil wel eens verlopen als ie warm of koud is.
De invoer van je PLA.
Ik neem weer maar aan dat je het tandwiel ziet draaien?
Je kunt controleren of je veer strak genoeg staat, door te kijken of je kartels ziet op het stuk wat al ingevoerd is.
Als je printkop verwarmd is (zet hem om te beginnen maar eens op 230°) dan moet je door met de hand te draaien een strraltje gesmolten pla uit de printkop zien komen.
Ik hoop dat je er wat wijzer van wordt.
tot lezens weer maar.
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I'm confused - that pink part you printed - was it ABS or PLA90? It was ABS, right?
Yes its ABS. next try will be the PLA90 when it arrives
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Dan houden we het hier toch gewoon op nl! :cool:
Lukt het nu? hoever ben je, welke problemen heb je nog?
heb je een ulticontroller of print je via usbkabel? welke cura versie.
Die ventilator bv. begint vaak pas na een x. aantal lagen te draaien.
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Hoi Marlot,
dat herken ik, gewoon willen vragen wat je weten wil, zonder je druk te hoeven maken over het engels :(.
Wat mij betreft mag er best een apart subforum in het nederlands komen.
Denk dat hier mensen genoeg zijn die je willen helpen in het nederlands hoor.
Als je wil kun je ook een persoonlijk bericht sturen.
Groeten en suc6
Kees
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That printhead is very interesting, are you willing to share the file with us?
Would be very appreciated!
I will share it on Youmagine when it fits (like to try first myself :shock: )
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Hi,
update on the printhead :(.
Ordered myself a roll of PLA90 in Germany.
The ABS stuck that good on the glue and glass...
Higher up in the print I have cracks of the internal stresses I guess.
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Hi,
Printing on glass with a gluestick...
The ABS sticks on the glass very well!!
But next problem is the stress, up higher in the print.
Still might need a heated bed to solve that :(.
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I think the brim looks quite ok but maybe some of you will call me a fool... :shock:
I think it's a Beautiful brim!!
. Running around 30% gives enough flow. Better circulation around the print I guess,(Doing where they are made for) So 4 of your 25mm's are more than enough!... Guess you Might consider 1 on each side.
Cura 13.11 support, lost direction
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Okeehj, did not notice that.
so print screens take 2, both layer 55.
I assumed that a 0.7 xy gap and 0.15 z gap would come up with bigger distance between main part and support.
But as shown in the layerviews and total grams a setting of 0.2 xy and 0.10 z results in a bigger gap and more grams used for the print.
I suppose there is a logic in it, but I have not found it yet...
Edit... PS.
note the empty brims in the 0.2xy 0.10z view.
Have not printed it yet in 0.2xy and 0.10 z version, could until then be only a visual problem.