3dcase
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Posts posted by 3dcase
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Speaking of a TC-board?
Always having trouble where to place my questions on the forum :shock:...
Somebody knows why the boards are placed on the printhead, other than cosmetic blue led reasons.
To keep the printhead more compact I was thinking of moving them underneath the machine.
Any electronic/magnetic/Interference reason why I should not?
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I will try that for a temporary solution,thanks
while lowering the speed would solve a part of the problem, but I don't want a 3day print turn into a week print
the bearing just don't fit properly, the wiggle at the bottom of the extruder assembly is more then 1mm
stupid that I never noticed it !, I wonder if all the UM1's have it ?
I don't no about all UM1's, but mine had it, hard to tell how much, it has to be as little as possible of course.
The wiggle disapperared after a while. The head can only wiggle when the shafts are perfectly aligned. that will allmost never happen i Guess.
At the end its just a wooden/lexan or alu. box with some electronics in it. :shock:.
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If you don't tell anyone!!!
It's just a greasemonkey solution.... But it works, and helps finish the android...
When the linear bearings of the printhead wiggle a little, you can put a little more tension on them.
Lift the lower 6mm shaft a little. Fold a piece a paper ca. 0.5mm and put it in between shaft and wooden sliders.
Lowering the jerk (accelaration?) seems more sophisticated.
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Printed the upper part of the torso, but I am not happy with the result :mad:
seems there is a lot of shaking in the printer head with bigger prints, I hope that I can resolve this.
it seems the bearings just don't fit properly, and can move slightly.
and also the support material was very difficult to remove, and I damaged the print itself,
when I had to use pliers.
Like to see the complete android assembled.
I would take a look lower than the printhead, the movement in the printhead bearings is the same for a high or low print.
In my printer the same happens, higher uip in the print it gets worse. I think it's the movement (shaking) in the platform.
It gets worse not only by distance to the swivel point (upper layer to platform), as well the mass (inertia) of the print gets heavier.
I guess you might want to look at the platform springtension or damping feet of your printer, perhaps add some weight to the platform. Slow down the print or the acceleration, ( somebody might know where to do that)
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That's a very, very nice print Illuminarti !!
3dcase, this weekend I'll try to print the Cell's Bowl on my UM1 in high quality, I think I'll use Faberdashery's "Artic White" for that.....
Found something similar at Youmagine, as a 'typical' Dutchman I don't like to pay 10€ for a design :shock:, And to top the bowl, takes 30 hours to print. x2€ hr = 70 € for a leaking vase...
But nice designs on Dizingof's site!
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Ha! I don't buy it. I'm not convinced the UM1 can't do just as good if you print just as slow and have your retraction "tuned".
I did print one on my UM1, about a year ago: scaled down a little, but basically the same. At the time I was pleased that it printed at all, although the quality is nothing like as good as this one turned out - but then again, I wasn't really trying for the very best quality, and it took a heck of a lot less time too. So i certainly wouldn't claim that that rather blobby print is in any way representative of what the UM1 was capable of. But at the same time, my gut tells me I could never get it as good as the UM2 version. It's hard to describe, but as I watch the UM2 print, there's a sense of deliberate precision that the UM1 just doesn't quite have.
:-P I can feel a contest in the air! :-P
where can we find the STL File?
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Woohw...
Like to see one from a UM1...
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Morning,
I hope total @#4%ng Disasters are allowed here as well....
Every now and then, 3D printing seems to be a total waist of time, money and resources :???: .
33 hours of printing to find this present.
Before Unwrapping.
And after.
Keep on trying, but next time with a smaller and faster print, and a tightened pulley and higher temp for the 2nd extruder.
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/album/353-ng-disaster/
Should show the better print as well........http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3741-better/?p=29166
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Well I just successfully sliced a file which had 2 Million plus faces, takes approximately 5 minutes on a intel q6600. But works like a charm.
I did not count the faces, No idea How to, but as said it was a 171 Mb gcode file.
What was the size of your gcode file?
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So here are my tests and impressions about dual extrusion:
As I said in another post, the wiki is very good, just lack the fact that you need to update the firmware.
The only problem I have is visible in this picture:
It seems my long screw are too short, making the plates not horinzontal at all. It's printing like that, but it doesn't look professional at all :???:. I was wondering about shortening the 2 black plastic spacers to give more space so that I get a more leveled plates. Any problems with that ?
It seems, like 3Dcase said it that the second hot end Diameter is not taken in account by cura (13.11.2) I had underextrusion problem with my filament in head 2 and no way to solve it by lowering the diameter. But increasing the flow solved it (and no big trouble with over extrusion of hotend1).
For calibration I used this : https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dual-extrusion-calibration-and-first-test, it's easy with a caliper to get the approximate offset, here you can see the first print and after calibration:
Now that I understood this under extrusion problem and the use of ooze shield and wipe tower, I will post soon my first real print.
Well..
I should talk you into printing this thing. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dual-printhead :cool:.
But that's up to you..
If you need longer bolts or something anyhow, you might as well, try the next best simple thing to get a more solid and stable printhead.
Buy a piece of threaded M3 rod. ca. 4 times the length of the long bolts +15mm.
Find 12 M3 nuts with a few washers, ( spare ones from your kit).
From the bottom up:
4 pieces of M3 rod in the Aluminum Plate.
A nut on each rod to clamp the 6 mm wooden bottom plate against the aluminium, to keep the Teflon in the hotends and isolators.
On top of the first nut a second one. will be on the bottom of the 4mm piece of wood.
the 4 roads go up trough the printhead. on the topplate you put the 3rd nut.
Now you can clamp the printhead together separately from the hotends. and move the for rods up and down the printhead by adjusting he nuts.
The adjustments will last a lot longer. because the hotends always seem to hit something of the print.
The tension in the filament will not move the nozzle anymore.
You might loose 3mm more in printing height. because of the 2 nuts in between the alu and wooden plate
So check your Z endswitch!
Suc6
H
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Hallo,
had al een poosje het plan om een NL facebookgroep te maken, bij deze dus.
Om elkaar in het nederlands te helpen met vragen en problemen.
En omdat ik zelf benieuwder ben naar wat een ultimaker uit de buurt doet, dan wat er in zuidamerika gebeurt, daar kom ik dan via het forum weer wel achter.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/Allesmaker/
ben benieuwd.
Groeten,
Kees
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Hoi Lia en anderen,
had al een poosje het plan om een NL facebookgroep te maken, bij deze dus.
Om elkaar in het nederlands te helpen met vragen en problemen.
En omdat ik zelf benieuwder ben naar wat een ultimaker uit de buurt doet, dan wat er in zuidamerika gebeurt, daar kom ik dan via het forum wer wel achter.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/Allesmaker/
ben benieuwd.
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Hallo 3Dcase
Ik weet niet hoe ik hier een foto moet plaatsen ik heb een mac misschien is dat het probleem.
image url lukt niet
Groetjes Lia
Hoi Lia,
als het goed is kun je wel linken naar een andere website waar die foto op staat.
Aan je profiiel zit ook een gallery gekoppeld, als je daar afbeeldingen naar upload, kun je die, met de My media button,boven je tekst intiep veld, in een bericht plakken.
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Hi Daid,
Will addressing it help?
because Ooze shields where discussed in this topic, I dump it here.
Strange effect in the ooze shield, it starts halfway on the inside as well.
Have n't printed it yet, might attach to the insidewall, but it looks strange....
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Hi,
Curaengine.exe quits running while slicing this dual Vase https://www.youmagine.com/designs/rorschach-plasma-vase.
I've managed to slice one G-code file with 0.24mm layers, its 171Mb.
Like to print it with .18 or.12 thickness. (slicing with 0.2 or 0.3 crashes as well)
I see only 1 download (mine?) on youmagine, no one else dared to give it a try I guess :(.
Would somebody give it a try please, like to know if it's a limit in my laptop or something.
slicing with cura 13.11.2, dual, shellthickness 0.4, bottom 0.8, 20%infill.
Thanks,
Kees
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After a lot of printing hours I got this!
Goe bezig Baas!
What is the size and where did you find the model?
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I think you can also use the Kinect sensor from the Xbox, although resolution isn't so great.
I'm using the Kinect sensor laying around from my xbox, the only investment needed was a 15€ external power supply found on the net.
Download the free windows Kinect SDK software and start playing :-P.
I know a Kinect sensor is sold for PC USB use. so if you think of buying one, buy the PC version, better resolution.
Type and search for scanner in the above search bar. A lot written on this forum.
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Hallo,
ik zie er nog ff geen foto bij, miss nog een keer proberen.
gr Kees
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Hi,
thought I edited en deleted my earlier long story, but you read the earlier version I guess.
I was pretty confused. Could not get it right, tried to keep track of what I did.
At the end I think, me and cura and the gcode were confused.
I have a working version of my gcode now.
When you load the Stl to slice, I have to clear the enabled plugins, save the clean gcode.
Restarted cura again, then start setting the tweak plugin.
The next time I try to keep track again of what I did. :shock:
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I think there's something missing... in your start.gcode for plugin version 3.0
I added the possibility to deactivate the plugin (as I move the z stage during initialization of the print and don't want the plugin to 'fire' during that part of the gcode) and reactivate it by adding GCODE-comments ';TweakAtZ-state0' and ';TweakAtZ-state1' respectively to the gcode.
However, it is undocumented and might confuse people. Thus, I made an updated version 3.0.1 where the initial state is set to 1 which means it just works if you don't add any comment to the start.gcode (as it should!).
You may find the updated plugin here: https://github.com/Dim3nsioneer/Cura-Plugins/raw/master/TweakAtZ.3.0.1.py
Sorry, I hope you did not loose too much time with it... :roll:
Hi,
spend some time trying, seems to work now.
thanks
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I'm not in the modern things like UM2's, but because it stays grey, pretty sure it is to big for your platform settings.
Try the "scale to fit" to button, and you see how much to big.
Perhaps (Try careful!) when it's about a few mm's,try to set your platform values a little higher .
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Hi,
anyone found a TweakAtZ version that works with cura 13.11.2?
Downloaded ver.3 but can not get it working...
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That printhead is very interesting, are you willing to share the file with us?
Would be very appreciated!
Here it is
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dual-printhead
better
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
After last weeks disaster, http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/467-post-your-latest-print/?p=28537.
This one came out a LOT better!!!
Made myself a smaller and easier print. (only :shock: 8hours this time)
Using the ooze shield works great, separates the colours fine.
the only thing is, when you start printing it gives a blob, like extruding starts a little to early. But it's hard to see what is exactly happening behind the ooze shield.