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viralata last won the day on August 27 2015

viralata had the most liked content!

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  1. Thanks, after further investigations, it seems I had a chain of problems: oxidation on the plug of the PSU explained the bad readings, but it is working in fact. Then I had a bad contact in one of the plugs of the cable going from the small card (on which you plug the PSU ) to the main ultimaker board. If I use another PSU plugged directly to the ultimaker board, everything is working. So I just need to replace this cable. Thanks
  2. Thank you for the answer, I didn't know it was the same PSU and didn't want to make a mistake. But the price of this PSU is very high ! 145€, the price of a cheap 3d printer. I have a 24v 15A PSU lying on a shelve, I think I will use it as a replacement for the moment, except if somebody tells me I should not (Not sure how sensitive the ultimaker is to the quality of the PSU).
  3. Hello everybody, after several years and thousands of hours of 3d printing mys ultimaker original+ stopped working. I think it's the PSU. But it is the PSU of the heated bed upgrade, it has four pins inside a metalic circle. It is said to deliver 24v. With a voltmetre I get a reading like 10v that drops instantaneously. I don't find it in any reseller in France (only original PSU can be found). Does anybody know what voltage I should put in each pin and how many watts it should provide for each pin ? Or if somebody knows where to buy it ? Thanks
  4. Version 1.0


    This was one of my first 3D prints. I used a mud house model I designed in Blender long long time ago for a friend (Meltingman) for the image above. This design is freely inspired by the Musgum mud houses.
  5. Version 1.0


    This is a simple replacement tire for my son's playmobil motorbike. I told him many time to stop removing the tires... of course he lost one of them. "No problem dad ! You can print me a new one, and in white please."
  6. Nice that the light comes through. Did you print it with a shell thickness of 1? I noticed with some tests that the light passing through is not proportional to the thickness. More or less, up to 1.2mm (with the white blueish colorfabb) the light passes, with more thickness it's almost stopped. So the parts letting the light passing are here 0.8mm thick, the other ones 2mm thick.
  7. I forgot to post a lot of prints lately, but I like this one so here is a lamp shade: More details here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/5051-wireframe-lamp-shade
  8. Version 1.0


    I started this lamp shade with the general shape in mind an the wish to play with thickness for letting the light draw things on it. I wanted the light to make it look different. While playing around in Blender I was hesitating between sharp edges to make the polygons realy visible, or smooth the edges to make them less obvious. The the idea arrived to make it smooth an let the light draw the edges. I really like the roughness of the light passing through, making the layers and defects really visible, giving imperfections that makes it look like a crafted object and not a printed one.
  9. Version 1.0


    An experiment with Blender soft bodies to use Gaudi's technique to automatically design the optimal shape of a roof. The model has been then decimated to have a more contemporary look compared to the original one here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/4916-smooth-cathedral-model More info here:
  10. Version 1.0


    An experiment with Blender soft bodies to use Gaudi's technique to automatically design the optimal shape of a roof. The video here explains the modelling process in blender.
  11. Version 1.0


    The shape is very simple, an icosphere, but the sanding and the surface of the raw bronzefill make it very beautifull. Printed in bronzefill, with 0.1mm layer height. Sanded roughly only on the edges to have a nice contrast between the edges and the faces with lines. You have to print it twice to have all the parts. It is better not to print at once to avoid blobs.
  12. Hello all, I don't have so much time to publish my prints anymore, and here is the reason why: I founded Chantier Libre a non-profit fablab 3 years ago, which promotes the use of libre softwares and open hardware. Of course the first tool we used was my trusty old Ultimaker Original. We launched a crowdfunding campaign to allow us to build more machines (SLA and ceramic 3D printer, big size 3D printer, thermoforming machine...) and mainly to build the first prototype for our openhardware big CNC machine Fraizilla. This CNC is designed to cut 2.5x1.25m panels for projects like Opendesk
  13. Version 1.0


    The patterns of this necklace are proceduraly generated: all the parts are different. I used Blender to design it. Don't forget the brim for the print ! Whats so good with bronzefill is the heavy weight of the prints: it relly feels different as plastic.
  14. Version 1.0


    This is a quick and easy to print medaillon, very nice in colorfabb bronzefill once polished.
  15. Version 1.0


    This a lamp designed in Blender with prodcedural texture to make some bumps on it. It is 3D printed in Colorfabb XT, then the "valleys" are filled with a natural clay plaster, so that the light is stopped or not with the pattern of the texture. The result plays beautifully with light, lighten or not. It has been designed to print without support.
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