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saulbass1

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  1. gr5 - you may well be right about this - personally I try to avoid the final - 'removing the nozzle stage', if I can, as I find the whole drill / burning flame thing a bit of a performance - especially as I can't get the drill head in position with the nozzle in place - hence the taking apart phase above. I guess I should try to find a reliable manual way (i.e. spanner) to remove the nozzle - it just gets a great deal trickier when the thing is hot - two sets of pliers are needed along with ideally a second pair of hands. Plus there's the problem of getting the nozzle back in the aluminium th
  2. My Ultimaker De-Clogging Nozzle Guide I've had my Ultimaker One for over 6 months now and have had a clogged nozzle on four or five occasions. To be honest it's been a pain to clear it. I've looked at the following guides and have found them helpful: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1932-new-user-tremendous-clogging-problems/page-2 http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2463-nozzle-failure/ http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1447-troubleshooting-ultimaker-hot-end-because-of-plugging/ http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Jamming http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/clean
  3. Afraid that I too suffer from frequent MAXTEMP errors. Mine is a pre-built machine and I waited/lost a month earlier this year trying to get it fixed by support. Since then I get this error every few weeks - randomly but it's a lost night and once again so much lost material... shame really. Perhaps when engineering have got the shiny UM2 out they might look at ways to fix this common fault.
  4. Hi, Just to add to this: I've been trying to place an order in the UM shop since 25th Oct some 12 days ago - apart from a brief note from support saying that they are busy elsewhere I've heard nothing at all about my order. I've lodged tickets with the online ticketing as well as direct emails. The monies have been taken. What is happening to the UM shop? - presently it feels like UM decided to abandon their existing customers all in favour of maximal press profile etc etc. Please remember that your existing customers are also very busy on their projects and need your support to continue
  5. Thanks for such a quick reply!! I can't tell you how much grief this has been giving me - it never occurred to me to push the collar down..
  6. Hi, This might seem like a dumb question but how do I release the bowden tube from the extruder mechanism? I've tried pulling it up using pliers - it seems well stuck and I don't want to break anything... Also I have a similar problem at the other end, I can't pull the bowden up out of the printhead - I have to disassemble the printhead, and pull the bowden down and out of the mechanism - all of which takes time to then reassemble - if there was a quick way to release it and lift it up and out of the printhead that would be great. ( It's a pre-assembled printer so I've not gone through the
  7. Guys, thanks for the replies which have helped me understand some of the operating tolerances of my printer - I wasn't sure if it was operating to specification. I'd previously thought that the Z axis would be the limiting resolution of the Ultimaker but gr5's explanation about the 0.2mm radiusing makes perfect sense, not withstanding the 12.5 micron positioning. The suggestion to print a raft is good except I'm not wanting to have a raft in this case. Cheers.
  8. Hi, Thanks for the quick responses. I reprinted the object using 'normal' non flexible Ultimaker PLA at 0.1mm layer thickness and as you can see from the attached image the corners are tighter in comparison with the flexible PLA. In both cases the interior corners are sharper than the exterior corners. I've uploaded the source file to thingiverse for reference if anyone is interested: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:139777 Owen - good idea - once I reload the flexible PLA I will try some lower temperatures... gr5 - the test piece is only 1mm thick and as this new image shows, the top a
  9. The picture above shows my flexible PLA print in comparison to my original data file. As you can see the corner radius of the 3D print is approx 0.8mm rather than the 0.2mm suggested. I have pasted my Cura settings. (The printer is a recent factory built machine in conjunction with Cura 13.06.4.) Does anyone have any ideas how to improve the quality of the print - which is a decal project? Cheers,
  10. Hi, I'm printing some objects using flexible PLA (@ 15mm/s) and the prints corners look a bit rounded in the XY axis. Is there any way I can adjust my Cura settings to sharpen the XY resolution of my 3D prints? Cheers, Selected
  11. Hi Daid, Really pleased with the performance and results I'm getting from 13.06. I have a feature request... Is there a way to have different infill amounts / support material densities for different sections of a single model - driven by polygon material colours. (I'm thinking .obj file import here). Sometimes I would like to be able to say to Cura - make this section solid/very dense while this section can be much less densly inflled - or to define a separate nested object as a support structure with specific density. This is particularly important with complex forms where sometimes Cura
  12. Got to agree - the latest Cura is amazing. Best prints ever. Thanks Daid!
  13. Hi, Firstly let me say - this is a wonderful enhancement to the Ultimaker - thank you. I had a couple of thoughts. Firstly it would be useful to have a display layout that showed ALL the settings employed for a print - this is really useful in developing profiles and print settings. It also really needs to show the printed objects scale, translation, rotation and mirror settings so that if you are doing a multipart print, you have a reference of what these were so that all the parts will match. Presently Cura hides these which can be frustrating. This image link shows what I mean. A
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