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Posts posted by jonnybischof

  1. Are you printing at a different layer height?

    It looks like underextrusion and bad layer adhesion.

    The underextrusion could be due to a higher layer height (?) which might be too high. For example with a 0.4mm nozzle, you don't want to go over 0.2mm layer height because your print lines won't be "square" anymore but more like "rounded out" which seems to be the case here.


    What material are you printing with?



    By the way, for strong and accurate mechanical parts I never print faster than 40 mm/s. Typically I'd print at 35mm/s (PLA). For some PLA brands, printing faster will give me a very brittle and easily delaminating result.

  2. "Print one at a time" needs to be set up carefully. You need to teach Cura (or any slicer software) the dimensions of your printhead and gantry so that it knows where it can go without hitting previously printed parts. If you're using a "brand" machine like an Ultimaker, this information is stored in the machine profile. For custom builds you'll have to set up the profile.


    You could set up your printer to automatically print a part, cool down, knock the part off the build plate (by deliberately hitting it with the printhead) and out of the printer, then heat back up and start over and over. But that requires some scripting I'm not familiar with. Has been shown by others though.

  3. Assuming that the top of your model is horizontal (parallel to the bottom, parallel to the build plate), the easiest thing to do in order to get uniform walls everywhere (and nothing else) would be to change the settings and the model a bit:


    The idea is to change the model from "tube" to "cylinder". Meaning fill out the internal space of your model so that it will have the same outer shape, but be solid inside.

    Simplified dummy for illustration:




    Then, you print the model with 3 walls (3x 0.4mm nozzle size = 1.2 mm), 0% infill and no solid infill top and bottom (uncheck boxes in Cura). This will get you the result you want. You can also make thicker or thinner walls by simply changing the settings. Always use a wall thickness that equals a multiple of your nozzle size.





    It only works with a flat (horizontal) top because if your top is not horizontal, it will be treated as a wall:





    So, what you wanna do is not print any infill (which is printed as what you called little bridges) at all, but just (outer) perimeter lines of the model and leave everything else away. That means, disable the according print settings, and remove the according features of the model (anything except outer contour).





    One important detail I forgot:


    As mastory mentioned, using this trick you will get variations in actual wall thickness, because Cura will always print the walls horizontally. A 90° wall will have the thickness it's supposed to have, but with increasing slope, the actual wall thickness will be reduced. You'll have to make a test print and check if that is acceptable or not.




    For some reason this forum will insert the last picture again at the end of my post o.O

    Please disregard...

    tube from cylinder 3.png

    • Like 1
  4. 1 hour ago, jasonatepaint said:


    This has not been the case, at least in my builds. My 2 aluminum extrusion printers are WAY more quiet than my official UM2. I use 4 big rubber feet on the bottom and it keeps the machine quiet. As far as motor noises/vibration it is minimal and as I said, worse on the official UM2 frame.  Vibration dampeners (rubber, cork) can be used as a thin interface between the 3D printed mount part and the frame, however I found that if tightened securely to the frame, I get no additional noise or vibrations. 


    Do you use the regular stepper motor drivers, or silent ones like TMC2100?

    I found that already manually moving the gantry made a lot of "aluminum" noise..

  5. On the note of aluminum frames:


    I must say that I don't like alu frames. They are strong and you can easily put stuff on them, but (precise) assembly is tricky because you have to put every beam together at the right point, check angles and so on. And the biggest disadvantage imo is the noise - aluminum frames seem to result in a more noisy machine overall. The stepper motor vibrations / noises get amplified by the aluminum (resonance). I don't like that...


    I have gone back to my initial idea of making a frame from HPL material (Trespa Virtuon 8 mm in my case). But for that I need a good CNC machine up and running. Takes time and money :(

  6. ...

    How did you managed to order from them? Did you order it on a company or from US?

    The european website says they only handle companies.


    I can make orders at Misumi from my workplace. Luckily, I do sometimes need Misumi parts at work so I can justify having an account there :)

    If there is a local FabLab near you, you could ask them if they can make orders. As long as they have a registered VAT number, they should be able to make orders.

    The easier way however is to just go for another brand / shop. There are several good aluminum extrusion systems out there.

    I dare say Misumi probably has the most extensive (maybe expensive, too) and most customizable range of aluminum extrusions in the world. But for the Ultimaker frame you don't actually need much more than a bunch of straight, accurately cut, standard extrusions with some mounting options.

  7. There's a 60T gear from misumi (or I think it was 58T) that has a inner dia of 12mm. With that you could insert the mk7 inside and align the screws so both are together in love :)

    I didn't went that path because I just found out after buying my 50T :D


    Do you mean GEFBB0.5-60-2-12-W7-H14-TPC3 ?

    This could be nice, and very solid because you can put the parts together using one long setscrew. But you can only connect the gear's hub to the MK7, not the gear itself. That's not quite the same as foehnsturm did.

    Anyways, you could try Misumi's Nylon gears (GEABM0.5), drill out their hub to fit it onto the MK7/8 and glue the parts together. The Nylon is easy enough to drill through even with "toy grade" tools.


    GEABM0.5-90-3-B-9 has a 9mm bore. But 90 teeth (min for that bore) is quite a lot. Would of course be great for torque, but that gear has a 45mm diameter.

  8. This is a chinese clone of the actual SilentStepStick. No clue how it compares to the original... If they're actually using the same parts, then there shouldn't be any difference. But you never know with the Chinese...

    You can get the Original here: http://www.watterott.com/en/SilentStepStick



    Looking at the pictures on aliexpress, you can see three things:

    1. it's a different layout than the SilentStepStick (but not necessarily electrically different!)

    2. There actually is a trinamic IC on the picture (good sign)

    3. The soldering quality is HORRIBLE. This is really painful to watch, being an electronics engineer... The components look like they were thrown onto the board from a distance. The amount of solder is very uneven with lots of short-circuits on some and missing solder on other pads. This is definitely POOR workmanship. My advice: Do not buy.

  9. M1 gears are huge! This is a (module) 1 worm next to a m0.5:


    The M1 gears weigh like... I don't know. 100 grams?


    I chose a 13t m0.5 gear with 5mm shaft from veroma-modellbau.eu

    IIRC, that link came from foensturm in this very thread.

    I didn't want a heavy steel gear, so I'm pairing it with Misumi's GEABM0.5-50-3-B-5.

    Yes, that gear is insanely expensive (12.70 EUR) but the quality is great. Btw Misumi doesn't have small gears. 20 teeth is minimum, so a combination is highly recommended.



    Here's the two gears. I've already mounted the M1 gears, so I can't add them to the picture. But you should get the idea: These gears are tiny. And the Misumi Nylon gear is light as a feather.




  10. It depends on your CAD system, and how you (or, the CAD) interpret what an "M..." thread is.

    M thread sizes are specified in some ISO standard (or something alike) and given exact manufacturing parameters. There is no such thing as an M30.2x1.5mm nut. The standard already defines these threads to be matching (IF they are made from metal, which is what the standard was intended for).

    I don't know many different CAD systems, but I suppose most will not let you define "odd" "M" threads. They will only let you make "standard holes" (SpaceClaim term) according to the underlying standard.

    I would try to solve that problem by making the screw, then subtracting it from the part where I want the nut to be. Then adding an offset to all faces in the nut - how much of an offset I'd have to determine by trying out a few different values...

  11. That makes sense, because it wouldn't be an M30x1.5 thread, but M30.2x1.5 instead.

    Would be nice to have some feature implemented into CAD programs that would account for that. Such as "offset standard holes / threads by xx to account for material shrinking".

    Note that circles usually shrink when printing because the printhead drags the plastic inwards a little while circling. It seems to be less of a problem with cylinders, which makes fitting a printed cylinder into a printed hole a very interesting thing...


    It "can" be a solution to scale your model in Cura (note you can scale X, Y or Z independently of each other). However, with anything more complex than a threaded cylinder, this will quickly become impractical because you'll ruin all the other dimensions...

    I usually make threads myself. In SpaceClaim, there is a "rotate helix" function which lets me make threads (inner or outer) very easily, with any specified parameters. Maybe Fusion has something similar?

    It takes a bit of genius / experience to make 3D printed threads which will work well even when someone else prints them with different printer / settings / filament / talent...

    I usually work around that by using standard metal hardware :p

  12. The alu extrusions came in at 132 EUR. But my frame is considerably bigger than an UMO and has more pieces (16 extrusions).

    Note that I used 3030 extrusions. The 2020s are cheaper, but the modifications probably cost the same for both types (Around 1 EUR per mod, with up to 5 mods on some of my extrusions).

    20160121234733.thumb.jpg.2c1c6bef220af81d310989e26eca5295.jpg 20160121234734.thumb.jpg.c0aedfd2798e68eb9bebec3668934818.jpg 20160121234735.thumb.jpg.9c94264dc4c1b1d762facb056296650b.jpg 20160121234736.thumb.jpg.62964d1aa588699668a1a2c5f728d0fa.jpg 20160121234738.thumb.jpg.41bac875c1f86100a99e2efc2dbc3be3.jpg

    /Btw: I don't wanna hijack this thread. Yes, this printer is quite different from an UM2. I will reveal the details about it in time - for now the build is far from finished and will take some more time to produce anything. I will open a new thread once there's something interesting to tell ;)






    • Like 6
  13. I've built my own frame using alu extrusions from Misumi, and wanted to share an experience:

    You can have Misumi add some options to the profiles that makes joining them accurately and very strong (!) super easy.

    Of course you pay considerably more for the extrusions (just about double), but the result is well worth it in my opinion.

    A combination of "Tapped Holes on End Faces" (LTP or RTP for one end, TPW for both ends) and "Wrench Hole Machining" (lots of different options available) will allow you to bolt the extrusions together using nothing but an M5 screw (2020, or M8 for 3030 extrusions).

    The screw's head goes into the slot of an extrusion, and screws into the other one's end face. The wrench hole is needed for the wrench to go through the extrusion and tighten the screw. This gives awesomely rigid 90° joints without any brackets!

    You just need to be careful to align the extrusions well when tightening them.

    I've used 3030 extrusions which go with M8 screws and 24mm long threads. I tightened these screws ridiculously and I'm confident these joints will last forever. :D

    But even with the smaller 2020 and M5 screws you should still get very strong joints.


    You can make all these modifications yourself if you don't wanna pay Misumi to do it for you. The "Tapped Holes on End Faces" use the already existing center hole - just need to tap the holes.

    The wrench holes don't need to be perfectly centered - you just need to get the wrench through there. Alignment is still possible even when these holes are about 1mm off.


    I strongly suggest using hex or torx (star) screws. You wanna be able to tighten them down really hard... :)

    • Like 1
  14. The UM2 has its stepper drivers directly soldered onto the mainboard. This makes it more difficult (but not impossible) to use the SilentStepSticks.

    You would basically have to remove the driver components from the board, then re-wire the TMC2100 on-the-fly. This is serious electronics tinkering, though. If you're not proficient with soldering and reading electrical schematics, then you'll have a very difficult time trying this...

    There's also the matter of wiring the UM2 board's current control circuit to the TMC2100. Not sure if the circuits are compatible (didn't compare them in detail)...

    • Like 1
  15. ...

    Oke so the are worth it but the are really expensive and i can`t find the in the right size. Or are we not on the same page?!


    There are definitely cheaper (chinese - ebay or something) alternatives, but this is a mighty fine series of crossflow fans:

    ebm-papst "QG030". Mouser has some of them, and they will ship for free above 65 Euros.

    Note however that these fans can't be PWM controlled, but they need to be regulated. You could either look for even more expensive PWM controllable fans, or you'll have to make a custom regulator for the fan (I'll show how to do t hat soon. Already got my new pulse generator for testing).

    • Like 1
  16. ...

    Well i want to make them around 500mm that should not be that big of a deal?



    If you get the usual chinese or "reprap quality" stuff, then yes you will most likely have problems, like heavy ringing and wavy "straight" lines.

    Imagine your shafts heavily bent like bananas, then imagine what that would do to the "linear" movements. Now, in reality the bend will be much smaller, but the effect remains the same.

    If you have access to above-industry-standard quality like Misumi shafts, then it might work well.

    Also the platform weight will be a big issue. You might need a stronger motor - or one motor for every leadscrew (be that two or three) to move the platform reliably.

    As mentioned before - we're going waaay off-topic here. Please open a new topic if you have more questions about your project.

  17. no, there is an older thread about PLA HT https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/9754-pla-ht

    Besides its high temperature resistance and tensile strength its quite soft, the surface feels somewhat waxy. I grinded it in the feeder most times until I switched to a 0.8 mm nozzle for less backpressure. And you !must not! use a fan for the first layer otherwise it doesn't stick at all. Printing temp was 210°C, layer 0.15 mm

    So PLA-HT is probably very similar to Orbi-Tech's PLA90. I hated that PLA because it was pretty much useless. It was so soft that printed parts would actually deform by their own weight after some time...


    If you want to make your build area that much bigger, you should take into account that the longer you make your gantry shafts, the more difficulties you'll have to get precise prints. Shafts are never 100% straight, and the longer they are, the worse they "may" get (depends heavily on the quality of the shafts!).

    Not wanting to go too off-topic here, but you'll find more discussions about that somewhere in the forum... Also about the direct extruder vs bowden.

    • Like 1
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