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jonnybischof last won the day on February 26

jonnybischof had the most liked content!

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About jonnybischof

  • Birthday 07/31/1987


  1. That would be a good idea, if the UM team wants that. I can also provide the source documents for the docs
  2. I would definitely add PDF and ZIP to the list. Doesn't matter much to me since I'm not really active on this forum anymore. But this just belonged here
  3. I made some additional documentation outputs of the Ultimainboard 2.1.4. Since this great forum won't let me upload anything, here's the link to where I put it up originally: http://3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?p=11752#p11757 Source files taken from the Ultimaker2 Github repository.
  4. Do you use the regular stepper motor drivers, or silent ones like TMC2100? I found that already manually moving the gantry made a lot of "aluminum" noise..
  5. On the note of aluminum frames: I must say that I don't like alu frames. They are strong and you can easily put stuff on them, but (precise) assembly is tricky because you have to put every beam together at the right point, check angles and so on. And the biggest disadvantage imo is the noise - aluminum frames seem to result in a more noisy machine overall. The stepper motor vibrations / noises get amplified by the aluminum (resonance). I don't like that... I have gone back to my initial idea of making a frame from HPL material (Trespa Virtuon 8 mm in my case). But for that I need a good CNC machine up and running. Takes time and money :(
  6. I can make orders at Misumi from my workplace. Luckily, I do sometimes need Misumi parts at work so I can justify having an account there If there is a local FabLab near you, you could ask them if they can make orders. As long as they have a registered VAT number, they should be able to make orders. The easier way however is to just go for another brand / shop. There are several good aluminum extrusion systems out there. I dare say Misumi probably has the most extensive (maybe expensive, too) and most customizable range of aluminum extrusions in the world. But for the Ultimaker frame you don't actually need much more than a bunch of straight, accurately cut, standard extrusions with some mounting options.
  7. Do you mean GEFBB0.5-60-2-12-W7-H14-TPC3 ? This could be nice, and very solid because you can put the parts together using one long setscrew. But you can only connect the gear's hub to the MK7, not the gear itself. That's not quite the same as foehnsturm did. Anyways, you could try Misumi's Nylon gears (GEABM0.5), drill out their hub to fit it onto the MK7/8 and glue the parts together. The Nylon is easy enough to drill through even with "toy grade" tools. /edit: GEABM0.5-90-3-B-9 has a 9mm bore. But 90 teeth (min for that bore) is quite a lot. Would of course be great for torque, but that gear has a 45mm diameter.
  8. That is really a nice system! I bet it's not cheap though.. The way I described above is pretty much the same, except it works using only M8 screws instead of the connector. It is less flexible because you need pre-drilled holes in the profiles positioned where you want the profiles to connect. And there's only 90° angles, nothing more advanced like this Maytec system offers. Would be interesting to get a full price comparison for an UM frame made with the Maytec system.
  9. It depends on how you mount the extrusions to that plate. Note that the usual profile nuts have a huge amount of play. I didn't find a way to reliably mount my (large, 2mm steel) brackets to the profiles without manually aligning them while tightening several screws at the same time. If you can hire a few extra hands to help, then it works. Also, a large 90° angle tool helps a lot. But it's really not cool if you have to do it alone..
  10. They just forgot to free the pad. But then they also used too large vias which wick away the solder paste from the IC's pad. Whoever designed that driver didn't care much about "details"... You can just put the heatsink on them regardless. Heat transfer will be worse, but should still be somewhat functional.
  11. This is an automotive part. The datasheet says 24..30V input voltage -> UMO power supply is 19V (Maybe UMO+ has a different one, don't know...). So that's out of spec. Output voltage is 13.8V which is also out of spec for a 12V fan. I would use a normal 24V to 12V DC/DC converter (5-10W) for a single fan, if you want it to run from the UMO power supply. One of the cheapest methods however is to just use some cheap 12V power supply. For example, an old external harddrive power supply adapter. These have more than enough power for a fan.
  12. This is a chinese clone of the actual SilentStepStick. No clue how it compares to the original... If they're actually using the same parts, then there shouldn't be any difference. But you never know with the Chinese... You can get the Original here: http://www.watterott.com/en/SilentStepStick /edit: LOL Looking at the pictures on aliexpress, you can see three things: 1. it's a different layout than the SilentStepStick (but not necessarily electrically different!) 2. There actually is a trinamic IC on the picture (good sign) 3. The soldering quality is HORRIBLE. This is really painful to watch, being an electronics engineer... The components look like they were thrown onto the board from a distance. The amount of solder is very uneven with lots of short-circuits on some and missing solder on other pads. This is definitely POOR workmanship. My advice: Do not buy.
  13. No, I wouldn't use a worm gear for the feeder either. This has been done before, though. And afaik it worked pretty well, too. My M1 worm gear is used to drive the Z platform, which is why I went for such a huge thing
  14. M1 gears are huge! This is a (module) 1 worm next to a m0.5: The M1 gears weigh like... I don't know. 100 grams? I chose a 13t m0.5 gear with 5mm shaft from veroma-modellbau.eu IIRC, that link came from foensturm in this very thread. I didn't want a heavy steel gear, so I'm pairing it with Misumi's GEABM0.5-50-3-B-5. Yes, that gear is insanely expensive (12.70 EUR) but the quality is great. Btw Misumi doesn't have small gears. 20 teeth is minimum, so a combination is highly recommended. /edit: Here's the two gears. I've already mounted the M1 gears, so I can't add them to the picture. But you should get the idea: These gears are tiny. And the Misumi Nylon gear is light as a feather.
  15. Well, Trespa is a very nice material. But it proved impossible for me to machine on our local FabLab's CNC router. I bought expensive, and (seemingly) well-suited mill-tools, but they all broke after just a few minutes of use. I suppose that router was just too crappy (vibrations, or maybe just the unbelievably stupid router settings that couldn't really be changed). Aluminum extrusions plus brackets is awesome on paper, but a real PITA to get squared in real life. I would never ever do such a thing again. Took my prototype apart before I had even tightened the last bracket. It was obviously never going to work the way I wanted it to. My latest attempt uses Misumi extrusions with the right mounting options. This works really well and I now have a frame that is built like a tank. See this thread: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/16123-aluminum-extrusion-2020-um2-printer?page=1#reply-131852 Btw, the UM black edition is on ice for now. I'm trying out a different gantry style, and overall a different concept entirely so it wouldn't make sense to call it an Ultimaker clone.

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