roald
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Posts posted by roald
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since a few days my ultimaker original starts with a temperature drop at layer 3 and it drops from 220 degrees to 200 degrees Celsius and ruin a few layers. after layer 11 the temperature stabilize and the other layers going well.
things i have already try to solve the problem:
restart windows pc
re-install cura
try another usb port
drive from a mac pc (with a older version of cura)
disconnect the printer for 2 hours
check the cables on the board and print head
expand the distance about the power cables from the heated bed and the signal cable from the temperature sensor
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i have compare some datasheets and i think this is the best relay for me:
panasonic ew - ale1pb18 - relay ,pcb, spno 16A 18vdc
http://pewa.panasonic.com/assets/pcsd/catalog/ale-catalog.pdf
i have made this decision about;
*coil voltage 18vdc close to the 19v output on the board
*coil current 22,2mA low coil current the board have enough power to drive the relay
*spst-no contact i dont need no more contacts
*good price
i hope i choice the right one and it will work this time
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oke what do you think about this one ''omron g2r-1a-e 18vdc''
its from the same series and the voltage lay a lot closer to the 19v that i measure on the board.
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hey AaronAlai, gr5 thank you for answer my questions. i learn every day more and more about the electronics of my ultimaker
today i connect the relay to the 12V battery of my car and it works. after the good results with the car battery i want try it again to my ultimaker port but the tiny contact of the coil broke before.
i also call my colleague today the one who gave me the relay, and he tell me that it should be possible that i can connect the coil in only one way (i'm always thinking i t makes no different)
he also tell me that it is possible to connect 19v on the coil but it reduce the life cycle of the coil.
tomorrow i order a new relay and also a component to reduce the voltage from 19v to 12v to spare my coil.
i let you know if it works.
and yes gr5 i have a multimeter
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- [*]RELAY, PCB, SPDT, 12VDC, 10A
[*] Product Range: OMRON - G2R Series
[*] Coil Voltage: 12VDC
[*] Contact Current: 10A
[*] Contact Voltage VAC: 250V
[*] Contact Voltage VDC: 30V
[*] Contact Configuration: SPDT
[*] Coil Resistance: 275ohm
[*] Relay Mounting: Through Hole
[*] SVHC: No SVHC (20-Jun-2013)
[*] Coil Current: 43.6mA
[*] Coil Type: DC
[*] Coil Voltage VDC Nom: 12V
[*] Contact Current Max: 10A
[*] Contact Voltage AC Nom: 250V
[*] Contact Voltage DC Nom: 30V
[*] External Depth: 13mm
[*] External Height: 25.5mm
[*] External Width: 29mm
[*] Mounting Type: PCB
[*] No. of Poles: 1
[*] Nom Operating Power: 530mW
[*] Operating Temperature Max: 70°C''
[*] Operating Temperature Min: -40°C
[*] Relay Type: Power
this are the specifications of my used relay. today i disconnect the two wire's brown and blue from the motherboard and connect those wires from the coil to a 12V battery loader and again no switch!!
do i something wrong? or is it broken? and when it is broken can someone advise me witch relay i must chosen?
i always order at webshop Farnell
i appreciated all your good helps guys
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1 i have remove the second diode
2 i disconnect the brown and blue wire and measure 19V on the contact and the led light up
but still no relay switch!!
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oke i have build the marlin firmware and change the options ''template'' , ''choose options'' , and ''heated bed temperature sensor''
the rest i don't change. and load the HEX file in cura.
now cura display the the bed temperature but the relay don't switch and the bed stay cold
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hello,
i have made a self build heated bed for my ultimaker original, and connect all the electrical components like the scheme
i have also selected the option heated printer bed (self build) in the configuration wizard and set it to 70 Celsius degrees
but when i hit the button start print in cura the relay don't switch and the bed stay cold?
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illuminarti your right, when i push the feeder with my finger, the wheel come inside the body (see picture) and i tightening the screw from 14 first to 11,5 now. it looks like it helps a bit the gapes on the top are less
the second thing that i will make better is my belt tension.
when i watch the movie about belt tension i realize mine is to soft but the problem is there is no space any more to tighten it with the screw its on the end en the screw eats a little in the wood (see picture)
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i was forgot to tell that the print on the picture is printed without cooling it is because my transistor is blown and a new one is in order. (i think that's why it pillows on the top)
i check the distance of the spring and it is 14mm and i can fasten the screw no more than that because the axis from the wheel hit the end.
also i had reassembled the part on the foto and check of everything is oke.
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first thank you all for the help. today i have make a new print with other settings and i had make some pictures and videos of the results from the test print.
first layer
second layer
as you can see i can only make a solid bottom when i print really close to the platform and extrude enough filament to splash the lines to fill the space between the lines.
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hello everyone,
every time when i try to print something, the printer lay the lines not close enough together.
what results in some little gapes/raster in the top and bottom layer.
how can i fix this ?
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i found different types on the same number BD679 by Farnell which one i must choose ?
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yes i have the blue and purple wire attached under the printer with the 12v battery the cable is oke.
i try to order the BD679 darlington transistor replace it, i let you know if it have solve the problem
thanks for your fast help -
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Maybe when you put 12V on the wires you fixed something? Loose wire?
you mean there is maybe a cable break or a not good connected wire?
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hello, the fan printhead from my original ultimaker wont work anymore?
when i connect my printer with the powercord and usbcable en put the power on
i have a voltage of 19V on the purple and blue wire on top of the printhead. and when i start printing the voltage drops to 14V but the fan wont start to drive anymore??
when i test the fan on a 12v battery it works.
anyone a idea what is wrong?
Roald
howto control my self build heated bed with Cura
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
yesterday i have receive my ''panasonic ew - ale1pb18 - relay ,pcb, spno 16A 18vdc'' relay and implement it
and it switch and everything working well.
problem solved thanks for all the help