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Everything posted by roald

  1. Thank you for your anwer Carlo i make a printscreen of the uploaded pin changes. can you tell me why you fill in -1 values at E1? is it to disable? today i check the pins again and i saw the follow line: #define MOTOR_CURRENT_PWM_E_PIN 46 i think i need change this pin number also because both extruder connectors have 4 pins, but no idea wich pin number i need to fill in?
  2. last week i blown up my motordriver from the main extruder(E1) motor on the ultiboard rev v2.1.4 now i try to set my second extruder port (E2) as main but it doesn't work. first i select the right board (72) from the board list and after that i search for board 72 in the pin tab and change the 3 pinning numbers from E0 To E1 but no power at all do i miss a step? i also tried to change the X/Y pinning and that work the change direction. the extruder morot also work when i put the connector in the Z motor port.
  3. I have design a mount for my titan aero an attach it on the X Y bearings of my UMO it going pretty well but the motor turn the wrong direction after swapping some wires its even dont turn anymore. Im a little bit confused about the schematic the umo board have the 4 motor contacts a1 a2 b1 b2 and the stepper motor on the titan have 6 contacts a ? b a- ? b- anyone know howto connect these? And what are the contacts in the middle?
  4. oke i tried the follow things and check if there is a improvement loose/fasten the bands check rod caps exchange X/Y stepper motor exchange stepper drivers play with retraction change bed nozzle distance when i loose the belt a little change retraction and bed distance i get a solid first layer but there are a few miss steps at the right side and the round but not on the left wall strange enough? also not a fully solid top the next thing i getting tried now is to change my belts en and pully's to gt2 ones 4x 606mm closed-loop belt gt2 2x 202mm endless belt gt2 6x GT2 Pulley 20 Tooth 8mm Bore 2x UM GT2 Pulley 20 Tooth 5mm 2x Twin Pulley GT2 20 Tooth 8mm Bore 4x Selfgraphite Linear Bearing 8*12*30mm
  5. After i get some strange gapes between my outer and inner wall, i design a pen holder and wright a simple g-code to check what get wrong. after some sketches i detect the same problem but couldn't fix it. i'm already dismount, switch some parts and mount the X/Y axis but without improvement
  6. good tips yellowshark. but today i had the same problem with printing my fan mount in abs so i get the idea to sketch 2 support walls each 0.25mm thick, the same sizes as my nozzle to protect the sloping wall from bending. but cura print the walls only when i set wall thickness at 0.125 can i solve this someone other ideas?
  7. thank you for your fast answer gr5 but in my opinion is not the overhang who gives the problem but the tin outside wall bend a little bit up, and when the printhead come over it hit the wall and push it back and the filament squeeze over the wall
  8. always when i have an object with two rounded corners the one that lay on the platform gets very ugly and not round, and the one on the top get very smooth someone tips?
  9. I use a mix of woodgleu and water on a heatbed with katon tape Smooth finish and easy clean with warm water
  10. the problem: without any reason my hot-end don't want heat up anymore, and the print start window show only the hot end temperature and not the temperature of the heat bed, when i press start print the printer don't heat up anything. what i have:* ultimaker original,board version 1.5.7 *selfbuild heatbed relay driven epcos 100k thermistor (4.7k pullup), *reprap fullgrapic smart controller custom firmware i use from: *https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ *cura 15.02.1 already tried: *default firmware (measure a bed temperature of 1100) *custom firmware from http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/index.php without reprap controller (same problem don't show no bed temperature) *other usb port *change from pc to mac *disconnect power for one night i had this same problem one time before and it solve the last time because i don't use the printer for weeks but now its back again. i also have sometimes an other problem with detecting baudrate but is solve that problem with switching from usb port
  11. I want upgrade my ultimaker original with two 12V powerleds is there a 12v output on the board wich i can use for it?
  12. howto build and load a custom firmwire visit the website http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ select your brand choose your options (100k is the number of resistance from your bed temperature sensor) the rest i dont change click build right click on the HEX file and choose save as open cura choose machine>install custom firmwire (and load HEX file) done this is what work for me good luck (please correct me when im wrong)
  13. i build a custom firmwire with the robotfuzz marlin biulder and load the .HEX with cura 14.07 and the printer work http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/build.php%20and%20load%20the%20.hex%20in%20cura%2014.07%20and%20my%20printer%20works%20:) thanks anon4321 for your fast help
  14. hello, yesterday i,ve updated the cura software from 14.03 to 14.07 on my windows pc and install also the newest marlin firmwire on the board. when the update was done i get stuck in the error: Temperature heated bed switched off. MAXTEMP triggered !! the only thing that my ultimaker original with board number 1.5.7 and self build heated bed do, when i switch the power on: is getting pressure for about 1 second on all the motors and after that loose it for 3 seconds and repeat that (loop) before i drive the same hardware for 3 months with cura 14.03 an secondary marlin firmwire with no problems. whats going wrong with the new software ? crash report: Recv: echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00 Recv: Error:Temperature heated bed switched off. MAXTEMP triggered !! Changing monitoring state from 'Detecting baudrate' to 'Error: Temperature heated bed switched off...' Recv: Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting) Recv: echo:SD init fail Recv: echo:Unknown command: " Recv: ok Recv: ok T:0.0 /0.0 B:0.0 /0.0 T0:0.0 /0.0 @:0 B@:0 Recv: start Recv: echo:Marlin1.0.0 Recv: echo: Last Updated: May 23 2014 11:34:31 | Author: (David Braam) Recv: Compiled: May 23 2014 Recv: echo: Free Memory: 3977 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232 Recv: echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded Recv: echo:Steps per unit: Recv: echo: M92 X78.74 Y78.74 Z200.00 E836.00 Recv: echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s): Recv: echo: M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z30.00 E25.00 Recv: echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2): Recv: echo: M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000 Recv: echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration Recv: echo: M204 S4000.00 T3000.00 Recv: echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s) Recv: echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00 Recv: echo:Home offset (mm): Recv: echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 Recv: echo:PID settings: Recv: echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00 Recv: Error:Temperature heated bed switched off. MAXTEMP triggered !! Recv: Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)
  15. Great to hear Drayson, that i also can help you with my search to make a better printer.
  16. i have try with and without fan. tightening and loose the screw on the extruder tensioner. try print with different temperatures with the printhead as well with the platform. nothing helps, my ultimaker is more broken than drive :( i try to order a new part for the one is broken on my extruder at ultimaker. the thing that i will ask, is it normal that there is a FLASHING red led (see picture #1) on the board when the printer drive. because the other led (see picture #3) is only burn red not flashing.
  17. gr 5 your right the temperature drop was a result about the fan start. i have try the same print without fan and now the temperature line is smooth at 220 degrees. but the problem isn't solve, now i think the problem is in the feeder. a month earlier i have crush the feeder part maybe my bolt was too long. good part: mine part do you think it make sense if it is broken or not? in mine opinion not the nut stay also with a broken part in place.
  18. yesterday i have receive my ''panasonic ew - ale1pb18 - relay ,pcb, spno 16A 18vdc'' relay and implement it and it switch and everything working well. problem solved thanks for all the help
  19. since a few days my ultimaker original starts with a temperature drop at layer 3 and it drops from 220 degrees to 200 degrees Celsius and ruin a few layers. after layer 11 the temperature stabilize and the other layers going well. things i have already try to solve the problem: restart windows pc re-install cura try another usb port drive from a mac pc (with a older version of cura) disconnect the printer for 2 hours check the cables on the board and print head expand the distance about the power cables from the heated bed and the signal cable from the temperature sensor
  20. i have compare some datasheets and i think this is the best relay for me: panasonic ew - ale1pb18 - relay ,pcb, spno 16A 18vdc http://pewa.panasonic.com/assets/pcsd/catalog/ale-catalog.pdf i have made this decision about; *coil voltage 18vdc close to the 19v output on the board *coil current 22,2mA low coil current the board have enough power to drive the relay *spst-no contact i dont need no more contacts *good price i hope i choice the right one and it will work this time
  21. oke what do you think about this one ''omron g2r-1a-e 18vdc'' its from the same series and the voltage lay a lot closer to the 19v that i measure on the board. http://nl.farnell.com/omron-electronic-components/g2r-1a-e-dc18/relay-power-spst-no-18vdc-16a/dp/2103591
  22. hey AaronAlai, gr5 thank you for answer my questions. i learn every day more and more about the electronics of my ultimaker today i connect the relay to the 12V battery of my car and it works. after the good results with the car battery i want try it again to my ultimaker port but the tiny contact of the coil broke before. i also call my colleague today the one who gave me the relay, and he tell me that it should be possible that i can connect the coil in only one way (i'm always thinking i t makes no different) he also tell me that it is possible to connect 19v on the coil but it reduce the life cycle of the coil. tomorrow i order a new relay and also a component to reduce the voltage from 19v to 12v to spare my coil. i let you know if it works. and yes gr5 i have a multimeter
  23. [*]RELAY, PCB, SPDT, 12VDC, 10A[*] Product Range: OMRON - G2R Series [*] Coil Voltage: 12VDC [*] Contact Current: 10A [*] Contact Voltage VAC: 250V [*] Contact Voltage VDC: 30V [*] Contact Configuration: SPDT [*] Coil Resistance: 275ohm [*] Relay Mounting: Through Hole [*] SVHC: No SVHC (20-Jun-2013) [*] Coil Current: 43.6mA [*] Coil Type: DC [*] Coil Voltage VDC Nom: 12V [*] Contact Current Max: 10A [*] Contact Voltage AC Nom: 250V [*] Contact Voltage DC Nom: 30V [*] External Depth: 13mm [*] External Height: 25.5mm [*] External Width: 29mm [*] Mounting Type: PCB [*] No. of Poles: 1 [*] Nom Operating Power: 530mW [*] Operating Temperature Max: 70°C'' [*] Operating Temperature Min: -40°C [*] Relay Type: Power this are the specifications of my used relay. today i disconnect the two wire's brown and blue from the motherboard and connect those wires from the coil to a 12V battery loader and again no switch!! do i something wrong? or is it broken? and when it is broken can someone advise me witch relay i must chosen? i always order at webshop Farnell i appreciated all your good helps guys
  24. 1 i have remove the second diode 2 i disconnect the brown and blue wire and measure 19V on the contact and the led light up but still no relay switch!!
  25. oke i have build the marlin firmware and change the options ''template'' , ''choose options'' , and ''heated bed temperature sensor'' the rest i don't change. and load the HEX file in cura. now cura display the the bed temperature but the relay don't switch and the bed stay cold
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