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roald

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Everything posted by roald

  1. roald

    HOTEND_OFFSET

    Its working by enable this both lines Thanks for the help // Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing). // The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder). // For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend. #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 19.70} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 0.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis
  2. roald

    HOTEND_OFFSET

    Oke i define the y-axis as well when im back home. But i dont get you about the nozzle change, in my mind there be no different in distance from center to center when i change the nozzle size. And cant you explain a little bit more about the ifdef clause? Or do you have a tip/website/book to learn a little but more about this?
  3. roald

    HOTEND_OFFSET

    Question: how to setup an hotend offset between primary and second hotend? I use: upgraded ultimaker original with utlimaker 2 V2.1.1 motherboard. E3d Chimera dual extruder, heatbed, reprap smart controller and Custom firmware from https//github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware Already try: give in the g-code commands "M218 T1 X20 Y0" and reply it with M500 command in simplify3d machine tab. This works for me until i switch the ultimaker off and on. Also try to change the firmware in configuration.h Change: #define extruder 2 #define temp_sensor_1
  4. Thank you for your anwer Carlo i make a printscreen of the uploaded pin changes. can you tell me why you fill in -1 values at E1? is it to disable? today i check the pins again and i saw the follow line: #define MOTOR_CURRENT_PWM_E_PIN 46 i think i need change this pin number also because both extruder connectors have 4 pins, but no idea wich pin number i need to fill in?
  5. last week i blown up my motordriver from the main extruder(E1) motor on the ultiboard rev v2.1.4 now i try to set my second extruder port (E2) as main but it doesn't work. first i select the right board (72) from the board list and after that i search for board 72 in the pin tab and change the 3 pinning numbers from E0 To E1 but no power at all do i miss a step? i also tried to change the X/Y pinning and that work the change direction. the extruder morot also work when i put the connector in the Z motor port.
  6. I have design a mount for my titan aero an attach it on the X Y bearings of my UMO it going pretty well but the motor turn the wrong direction after swapping some wires its even dont turn anymore. Im a little bit confused about the schematic the umo board have the 4 motor contacts a1 a2 b1 b2 and the stepper motor on the titan have 6 contacts a ? b a- ? b- anyone know howto connect these? And what are the contacts in the middle?
  7. oke i tried the follow things and check if there is a improvement loose/fasten the bands check rod caps exchange X/Y stepper motor exchange stepper drivers play with retraction change bed nozzle distance when i loose the belt a little change retraction and bed distance i get a solid first layer but there are a few miss steps at the right side and the round but not on the left wall strange enough? also not a fully solid top the next thing i getting tried now is to change my belts en and pully's to gt2 ones 4x 606mm closed-loop belt gt2 2x 202mm endless belt gt2 6x GT2 Pu
  8. After i get some strange gapes between my outer and inner wall, i design a pen holder and wright a simple g-code to check what get wrong. after some sketches i detect the same problem but couldn't fix it. i'm already dismount, switch some parts and mount the X/Y axis but without improvement
  9. good tips yellowshark. but today i had the same problem with printing my fan mount in abs so i get the idea to sketch 2 support walls each 0.25mm thick, the same sizes as my nozzle to protect the sloping wall from bending. but cura print the walls only when i set wall thickness at 0.125 can i solve this someone other ideas?
  10. thank you for your fast answer gr5 but in my opinion is not the overhang who gives the problem but the tin outside wall bend a little bit up, and when the printhead come over it hit the wall and push it back and the filament squeeze over the wall
  11. always when i have an object with two rounded corners the one that lay on the platform gets very ugly and not round, and the one on the top get very smooth someone tips?
  12. I use a mix of woodgleu and water on a heatbed with katon tape Smooth finish and easy clean with warm water
  13. the problem: without any reason my hot-end don't want heat up anymore, and the print start window show only the hot end temperature and not the temperature of the heat bed, when i press start print the printer don't heat up anything. what i have:* ultimaker original,board version 1.5.7 *selfbuild heatbed relay driven epcos 100k thermistor (4.7k pullup), *reprap fullgrapic smart controller custom firmware i use from: *https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ *cura 15.02.1 already tried: *default firmware
  14. I want upgrade my ultimaker original with two 12V powerleds is there a 12v output on the board wich i can use for it?
  15. howto build and load a custom firmwire visit the website http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ select your brand choose your options (100k is the number of resistance from your bed temperature sensor) the rest i dont change click build right click on the HEX file and choose save as open cura choose machine>install custom firmwire (and load HEX file) done this is what work for me good luck (please correct me when im wrong)
  16. i build a custom firmwire with the robotfuzz marlin biulder and load the .HEX with cura 14.07 and the printer work http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/build.php%20and%20load%20the%20.hex%20in%20cura%2014.07%20and%20my%20printer%20works%20:) thanks anon4321 for your fast help
  17. hello, yesterday i,ve updated the cura software from 14.03 to 14.07 on my windows pc and install also the newest marlin firmwire on the board. when the update was done i get stuck in the error: Temperature heated bed switched off. MAXTEMP triggered !! the only thing that my ultimaker original with board number 1.5.7 and self build heated bed do, when i switch the power on: is getting pressure for about 1 second on all the motors and after that loose it for 3 seconds and repeat that (loop) before i drive the same hardware for 3 months with cura 14.03 an secondary marlin firmwire with no pro
  18. Great to hear Drayson, that i also can help you with my search to make a better printer.
  19. i have try with and without fan. tightening and loose the screw on the extruder tensioner. try print with different temperatures with the printhead as well with the platform. nothing helps, my ultimaker is more broken than drive :( i try to order a new part for the one is broken on my extruder at ultimaker. the thing that i will ask, is it normal that there is a FLASHING red led (see picture #1) on the board when the printer drive. because the other led (see picture #3) is only burn red not flashing.
  20. gr 5 your right the temperature drop was a result about the fan start. i have try the same print without fan and now the temperature line is smooth at 220 degrees. but the problem isn't solve, now i think the problem is in the feeder. a month earlier i have crush the feeder part maybe my bolt was too long. good part: mine part do you think it make sense if it is broken or not? in mine opinion not the nut stay also with a broken part in place.
  21. yesterday i have receive my ''panasonic ew - ale1pb18 - relay ,pcb, spno 16A 18vdc'' relay and implement it and it switch and everything working well. problem solved thanks for all the help
  22. since a few days my ultimaker original starts with a temperature drop at layer 3 and it drops from 220 degrees to 200 degrees Celsius and ruin a few layers. after layer 11 the temperature stabilize and the other layers going well. things i have already try to solve the problem: restart windows pc re-install cura try another usb port drive from a mac pc (with a older version of cura) disconnect the printer for 2 hours check the cables on the board and print head expand the distance about the power cables from the heated bed and the signal cable from the temperature sensor
  23. i have compare some datasheets and i think this is the best relay for me: panasonic ew - ale1pb18 - relay ,pcb, spno 16A 18vdc http://pewa.panasonic.com/assets/pcsd/catalog/ale-catalog.pdf i have made this decision about; *coil voltage 18vdc close to the 19v output on the board *coil current 22,2mA low coil current the board have enough power to drive the relay *spst-no contact i dont need no more contacts *good price i hope i choice the right one and it will work this time
  24. oke what do you think about this one ''omron g2r-1a-e 18vdc'' its from the same series and the voltage lay a lot closer to the 19v that i measure on the board. http://nl.farnell.com/omron-electronic-components/g2r-1a-e-dc18/relay-power-spst-no-18vdc-16a/dp/2103591
  25. hey AaronAlai, gr5 thank you for answer my questions. i learn every day more and more about the electronics of my ultimaker today i connect the relay to the 12V battery of my car and it works. after the good results with the car battery i want try it again to my ultimaker port but the tiny contact of the coil broke before. i also call my colleague today the one who gave me the relay, and he tell me that it should be possible that i can connect the coil in only one way (i'm always thinking i t makes no different) he also tell me that it is possible to connect 19v on the coil but it reduce t
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