yellowshark
-
Posts
1,759 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
6
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by yellowshark
-
-
Hi Nicolinux,
Ok that is much better
I thought it was just the top layerYou should check the stuff George talked about. Then you might want to proceed as follows.
First, let’s get the bed level stuff dealt with. I agree with George but let’s make sure you are happy too.
Load a standard 20cm cube into Cura. Reduce the z height by 50%(just to reduce print time)
Take 2 copies. Place one in the centre, another on the centre line horizontally but a ¼ in from the left, the other a ¼ in from the right
You should be able to run 100 microns at 20m/s at 205 but if you are one of those suffering extrusion issues then I guess going hotter is necessary. Use 300 microns at 30m/s and I would suggest 220max.? I run 300 at 60m/s with 220 degrees. Set bed temp to 60
Set 20m/s for 1st layer
You have been using different filaments so unlikely to be that but let’s take out that variable. Is it easy enough to take of the Bowden tube? Assuming it is, unfurl 2 mtrs of filament from your reel and feed it through the tube to make sure it is smooth and easy and not sticking. Put it all back together
Set the Multiple print to print all at the same time.
Select one loop.
On this I do not think it makes a huge difference but set 70%fan by 0.9mm or 1.2 mm
Retraction on. Get bed up to temp. Get extruder up to temp; wait a few minutes for it to stabilise.
Print and watch.
Report back.
2nd lets try and address the nozzle to bed distance
Same as above but just use one cube.
I don’t know if you are using a glass bed or something or printing straight on to the bed but you will want to code a z-offset into your Cura start code.
I assume your z minimum end stop is 0 i.e. right at the bottom of the z axis and that is where your bed is located before you start your print. If that is not the case we need to stop right here and take some advice.
Assuming that is the case then you need your z-clearance - distance from bed at the 0 position to nozzle tip. If you are using a plate of some sort then you must already have a z-offset in the cura start code methinks.
If you do then reduce the number by 0.05
If not then take your z-clearance, say 210.0 and reduce that by 0.05. which is your new z-offset
These actions will move the bed 0.05 away from the nozzle.
Do check to make sure there is nothing else in the start code affecting the z positioning.
Enter G92 znnn eg G92 z209.95 being your z-offset
Run the print. Is the result better or worse than your first test.
If better or no different , reduce your z-offset number by another 0.05 (repeat as necessary)
Eg G92 z209.90
If worse increase your z-offset number by 0.025
Your are sort of doing a binary chop here if that means anything
If worse and you get back to your z-clearance number, then whether you want to try and get closer by adding 0.01 or 0.02 to your z-offset I will leave to your discretion.
Report back
-
If you want true multi-colours (ie 16.7 million colours or whatever it is) then I think you need to go to industrial machines with a very large cheque. There has been a lot of internet hype over the past 6 months of an American printer, in our space, that will do it but I am not aware of it making it into real existence yet. My understanding is you buy a single cartridge of, maybe CYMK, resins. Just imagine how much you are going to waste!!!!
I took a close look at the CubeX at the TCT show last year which I think makes dual/triple colour printing quite easy but I was not impressed with the quality of the samples I saw on the stands – under-awed would be an under-statement. I refer to the quality of the plastic finish not the colour.
If you want dual extruders there are several about but be aware that the current level of software makes it cumbersome. That is changing I am sure. I hear that Ultimaker are working on this subject, no doubt to tie in with their release of dual extruders on the UM2. I am sure the Stratasys takeover of MakerBot will move this along too. Simply3D is working on it too I believe.
My printer, a 3NTR has dual extruders; their new A3 sized printer has 3. It has a built in pause with automatic realignment of the nozzles once you restart which, given an appropriate model, makes it dozily simple to change filament to another colour or material and continue – having re-primed the nozzle ideally you just need to have stopped over some infill to be able to get the new filament flowing nicely before you start an outside wall. So instead of printing in two colours you can print in 4 or 6 or 8 or 27… J but of course not all at the same time.
Why would you want to print plastic in more than one colour? Put it the other way why would you want to spend all that money on 3D printing and only be able to print in one colour? If I could truly multi-colour print I could win more business from Injection Moulding companies than I currently do.
Have you tried printing an office block for display without multi-colour printing? If the block has a 100 windows that is 100 window frames and 100 pieces of glass that have to be printed separately and then stuck together – give me multiple or multi-colour printing any day!!
3D Printing is meant to be fast – spending hours and hours of painting small detail afterwards is not and is boring –and that is assuming one has the capability.
-
Hi Nicolinux, is it happening with just the top layer or with intermediate layers also, which of course get covered up. If your 1st and 2nd layer (different depth potentially) are OK then personally I am not convinced it has anything to do with bed levelling or nozzle to bed distance. But if it is only happening on last layer then I am stumped as to what it might be.
I assume your top layer solid infill distance covers multiple layers not just the last one and that those last few layers are OK?
Did you forget to give your printer porridge for breakfast?
-
Hi Netsrac, I cannot see any bed temps stated in any posts but I assume you were at close to 60 for PLA and not something like 110. Hairspray comes off dead easy under warm water and a small blob of liquid soap/washing-up liquid. Just rub it off with a J-cloth or similar. If you were at 90+ I will admit I have no idea.
-
If I suffer this and need to fix it, e.g. printing a circular bolt that needs to go through two other pieces to hold them together, I design the bottom layer of the bolt cylinder, i.e. 0.3mm of the bolt to have the diameter reduced by 0.1mm or 0.2mm. This normally fixes it for me so that the cylinder is 100% consistent.
-
For the elephant you may even find that you need to print a 2nd model concurrently. A simple cylinder at least as high will do. Difficult to tell from the photo how thin the end of the trunk should be But I suspect I would be looking to lower the speed to 10m/s to 15 m/s for the last section.
-
No reason why not. It might be worth trying the Spiralize option and setting the wall width to .6mm. I have only tried it with .4mm on the Venus de Milo and in two areas it left a small gap. Try it without Spiralize too.
If you try it with Spiralize the boobs should come out fine. Without Spriralise they may or may not require support to get a really good finish
-
As I said elsewhere, Taulman nylons have no toxicity. The key to maintenance is to ensure you buy their newly made nylons after they retooled to a nominal size of 2.85mm vs the previous tooling of 3.00mm.
The previous nylons have a strong tendency to jam in the Bowden tubing.
You need to trust your supplier on this and stress that you want 2.85 not 3.00. The problem is that both sizes have 3.0mm printed on the reel label. If they sell you old stock you will be stuffed. Eventually one can surmise that this old stuff will work itself out of the supply chain although irritating that Taulman did not re-label.
Apart from this point my assumption is there is not really any maintenance.
The above does not apply to their t-glase nylon as they say this was always manufactured with the new tooling. For clarity it certainly applies to 618 and 645, do not know about Bridge.
-
I read elsewhere that it is far from accurate so interest has dropped
-
I am interested in Filafax too, anyone used it? Not sure about the extruder nozzle bit. Stated size is 2.80 +/- 0.08 so it should not be a problem for printers with a Bowden tube feed system if that is accurate.
-
From my limited use of 645, maybe 6 hours printing, I detected nothing and the workshop was not ventilated. The same applies to t-glase but that was with very limited usage.
-
Yup agree with George, wall thicknesses of X do not stop you getting .4mm walls as long as your nozzle is 0.4mm. (for me that is on 14.01)
I do think I read somewhere that walls smaller than the nozzle size are possible by under extruding..
-
Also the red glaze t-glase was manufactured after Taulman retooled to 2.85 filament so you should not have any trouble with the Bowden tubes. I didn't. Mind you I have not succeeded yet in getting the t-glasse to stick to the bed! Oh and the t-glase has a much lower TC, close to PLA if not a tad lower, so probably do not want to use it for inlet manifold stuff unless you have a 1920's standard Ford without a bonnet
If you for 645 make sure your supplier can assure their stock is very new so that you do not get stuck with a 3.00 reel (both are labelled 3.00)
-
I recently did some shock absorber seals for a friends 1951 MG TD in Taulman 645. They were I think an inch high. At that height flexible they were not which surprised me. oh 100% infill btw
-
Perhaps you could update us with your Bridge experiences Jino.
I am using 645 because of its bio-chem properties
What bed and extruder temps did you use for the 645?
-
You may well be right George but I figured doing a binary chop was potentially the quickest way to get to reach optimum solution.
-
Hi Robert, we in fact went straight to your technique for the fillets. They turned out real nice, so many thanks for that
The latest report today is that they are suffering delam across the Clip not just on the edge (admitting it has taken some abuse). Clearly the major stress is pulling the two ends apart to fit it over the wrist, which follows the direction of greatest tensile strength but it must be putting stress on the layer bonds too.
So now printing another for them at 30m/s and .2 layer depth.
Plan B will be to increase the width of the strap are from 1.6mm to 3.2 mm to double the surface area in contact. This though will make the strap stiffer I am sure and may make it functionally unacceptable.
Plan C will be to go back to nylon although I am a couple of weeks away from getting my new Taulman filament. This will provide the flexibility needed if 3.2mm is too stiff and I think I have read in various places that nylon gives stronger layer bonding.
-
PLA, glass bed, extra strength hairspray, sprayed lightly, 2 coats with 20 secs in between, 60c = :mrgreen:
-
Will do Skint. I have a Canadian customer who gets back from Florida in 5 weeks time and he wants some stuff to be waiting for him, so getting this sorted is high on my priority list.
-
I heard today, direct from the horses mouth, that following the uptake of 3D in Europe and Ultimaker users trying nylon, Taulman retooled and the size is now set to 2.85 with a maximum of 3.00. It seems that originally a lot of units (in the States?) were using 4mm ID bowdens. My UK supplier offered to replace my spool and we agreed to wait until their imminent new delivery in case their stock contains any of the old measurement. It appears that the label has not been changed to say 2.85. so it is not obvious what you have.
I am going to print a width gauge and run the spool through it when it arrives in about 2 weeks
-
Thanks for that Robert, a smart idea. I will be printing it tomorrow with the changes noted above and I was wondering how the bottom section (print oriented with the bracelet set vertically) with the fillet would come out. It is narrower than stated above, at 1.6mm, so I am not sure how it will come out. I will keep the chamfer in hand and update you on what happens
-
make that my 3 favourite guys :mrgreen:
-
Thanks to my two favourite guys for coming back so quickly
. It is a .4mm nozzle. Layer dim. for me has the greatest affect on unit cost but I do think we will push to use .2 instead of .3. Also for production we will use 30 m/s as the interface to the sensor module is quite intricate, using a series of "feet" that slot in then slide to lock the two parts together; tolerance is quite small so I think faster than 30m/s would be risky plus the other parts were done at 30 m/s and connect seamlessly.Also we have been asked to fillet the edges as they are sharp and this unit sits on the skin.
So all in all this all fits with what you are both saying and may well, neh, will get rid of the problem - although I have always wanted a heat gun
Unfortunately I am a cell phone luddite, disliking its intrusion into my privacy so yes I should have requested a picture, doh.
I will post one when received.
-
Hi I have been producing a number of prototypes to attach a motion sensor to various parts of the human body. I have been told that one of these is suffering delamination.
Put simply, it is a wrist bracelet; quite wide at 42.5mm with the bracelet depth being 3.2mm. It is elliptical in shape not circular and not fully enclosed. I.E. there is a gap between the two ends of the bracelet of 20mm.
We were just playing with a design so when printed it was not intended as a prototype but our client really liked it and wanted to take it to a seminar in Milan. Where it currently resides so I have not seen the delamination.
It was printed at .3 layer width, 60m/s and 220c extruder temp and 60c bed temp; layer width might have been .2 but I am sure we would have used .3 as we were just playing. I am guessing normal average fan settings would have been used.
The only forces applied to the unit will be pushing the two ends of the bracelet apart to slip it over the wrist. My understanding is that the delamination is at the edges of the bracelet, not in the middle.
So my question is what, fundamentally, changes could/should be made to print settings of a PLA part to try and stop this happening?
The question might be simply rephrased as “to improve layer adhesion” but I am surprised it is occurring just at the edges rather than in the middle so without sight of the part I am not sure quite what is failing.
I thought it was just the top layer
problem printing colorfabb PLA
in Materials & profiles
Posted
I had as similar occurrence about a month ago, in terms of under extrusion and filament sticking in the extruder assembly that I could not solve – learned quite a lot that week!
I even went to the extent of removing my entire extruder #2 extruder and Bowden tube assembly and swapped it into extruder #1. No change.
Finally I thought well the only thing I have not done is change the filament. No need of course because I had Colorfabb Dutch orange loaded, my benchmark filament. Anyway I took it out and started to feed it into the Bowden tube I had removed – and it started to stick. I took some measurements, which I always find difficult to get exact but I had lots of 2.95+s and some 3.00+s.
I emailed Colorfabb with all the details and a week later I had a replacement reel.
So do carefully check your filament.
(the replacement reel is fine )J