wallan
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Posts posted by wallan
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Hmm.
I will do some more testing.
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I have greate succes with more or less the opposite approach.
I brush on a decent layer of ABS slurry, let it dry and then print first layer with standard ABS settings for filament and bed.
After first layer I turn of the bed heating and drop temperature to 235deg.
No Fans at all.
I usually don't print any parts larger than 10x10x10 cm so maybe that my solution don't work with really large pieces.
Nice to know about an alternative solution if that would be the case.
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With 14.03 test 2?
How long does it take for it to save?
And try to save it exactly like i did.
I rotated the model before saving so.
Rotate the model so it comes into normal positon, neck down, top of head upp and click the auto rotat so it sits totale flat on bed and then try saving again.
Does it still work?
If it still does I will try to save to another disk to se if it works on any of the other units I have.
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Ah, missed that email.
Did send an message with a link to a download the file.
Hope that works fine as well.
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I'll try to find the model again and send it to you.
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One more vote for separate Top and Bottom thickness: I have a small structural piece where the product needs a strong bottom to hold a threaded insert, but a thick Top causes a bulge halfway up the piece where the infill ends and a hollow section begins.
You have my vote as well.
I have great succes printing abs on slurry with open bottom exept for getting holes on my figurines shoulders etc.
i did thought of those areas as continued shells and did not realise that it was the top settings that could be the problem. Or at least it could be the problem if latest suggestions to my problem are correct. I still have to verify it by doing a print.
I want to keep bottom open while still closing the top and without getting less undercut abilites.
Maybe a simple checbox for not creating a bottom when its the builplate layer.
Except for wanting an open bottom for acces,saving time and filament a bottom also makes a deformation on the figurine as it seems to either not follow the shape correctly or possibly shrinks more.
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Imported obj files needs to be scaled and rotated. After doing so i like to save them. Cant check now but as I remeber loaded gcode files cant be scaled if I want to print in another scale without having to rotate again.
Whatever the reason is for me to want to save the model, if there is a save model I would suppose that it's meant to work.
I have saved other parts of the model with no problem but the part in question wont save.l
I dont think there is anything special with the part that dont save exept for it beeing larger than the one that I did manage to save.
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Holes appear on "top" surfaces due to insufficiently thickness of the top layers in respect to the fill density used. Sparse infill requires thicker top, while using a higher infill may work with thinner top. Since you do not normally require a strong figurine, increasing fill density is not necessary, but this would in turn require to increase the top thickness.
I'm not normally using Cura, but I observed that the thickness of the top is coupled with that of the bottom, which is not very useful either. It means that if you increase thickness of the top, the same will be on the bottom, but this will unnecessarily prolong the print time and waste material. In Slic3r (well, I know not so many people like it, but I got used to) top and bottom thickness is decoupled (you can specify separately the number of layers at the top and at the bottom).
Now, the actual values of the two fill parameters in Cura depend on some other factors as well, such as layer height, temperature, speed and cooling. Shell should not count too much since the slicer is adding some additional 100% infill when the curvature of the model requires. But, it will still count for the top thickness that was set.
I'm printing figurines in ABS with 0.2 mm layer height, 40 mm/s at 230C, and I'm using 30% infill and 4 top layers (i.e. 0.8 mm). When using only 3 layers and 30% infill, or 4 top layers and 20% infill, I got sometimes holes.
Printing at 0.1 mm layer height would probably require more top layers, though the total height might be lower (e.g. 0.5-0.6 mm). This will add to the total print time, but there will be no issues with holes.
More aggressive local cooling may help as it will do with the second issue mentioned in the initial post: overhangs. However, cooling might impact bed adhesion, particularly if the print time is long and/or the footprint is large. If cooling do not suffice, you need support (not so bad, since you're going to finish the object anyway). If cooling result in margins lifting from the bed, try a 2-3 mm brim around the model.
Ah, so top thickness is used even if it is a continous shape. I thought it considered it as the shell. That explains why i get holes as i have tuned of topand bottom.
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I tried to save a part as a model file from Cura 14.03 Test2 but no file was created.
Or acctually, there is a file but it's 0 bytes.
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Increased fill to 30, not to make it stronger but more as an sustitute for an internal support.
As I Cant get cura to create any.
Increased shell to 1,2 as well.
I still get a hole on the chin as the infill not hits exactly the right spot but another nice thing with abs is that the slurry works really nice as a filler as well.
I think this will do.
Gonna try a full figure next in order to evaluate abs for the full process.
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That's what i would do as well in case it's just in some few places. Otherwise i would buy transparet silicon and apply a layer to the inside.
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It would be interesting to try a 0.2mm nozzle some day.
And the effect on details that acetone has is also a reason for applying it with a brush for more control of the effect.
But on the other hand all surface treatments will have that effect. Filling and sanding / tumbling PLA will do the same.
Another problem i see with acetone is that the surface might get so smooth that I probably have to spray it with matte color in order to get my oil paint to stick to it and not just slide around. Airbrushing would of course work fine but I find it more fun to use oils and I can paint anywhere.
However, as my figure models are pretty large 25-45cm, I'm quite happy with the level of detail that I get with current nozzle.
My main problem with the ABS at the moment is the holes i get.
But that is mainly a support issue.
And as there seems to be someone working on that part there will probably be better support structures in the future.
Are there anyone that can tell me what the requirements are for getting Cura to create support to the inside of the head, if possible?
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A bit better but not quite there.
Tried with 20% infill and temperature lowered to 245 and i did cover the opening in the printer for a more even and slow cool down..
The infill did not line up with the critical points so it did not help much in solving the problems with the holes.
In the second attempt i decreased infill to 10% as it not helped much anyway, lowered the temperature to 235 and increased shell to 1,2.
Result is quite similar to the previous.
I think that booth prints would had come out nice if there was support structures on the inside as they would had added support at correct places.
I did however not manage to get Cura 14.03 Test2 to create any.
Adding support in the 3D Modeller would be very hard I think as it most follow contours and match up exactly with the cuts as well.
Any suggestions?
One thing I can say for sure is that the slurry makes a really god bond to the glass.
No risk of the parts warping because they comes lose from the bed.
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To sum it up.
Try lower temperature.
If that dont fix the i will need some infill or support.
Maybe try covering the front on the printer to get a more even temperature inside the printer.
I'll try that this evening.
I vill really like to get ABS to work.
That face, apart from the holes is so smooth that I hardly even need to smooth it.
And that vapor method. I have read about it before and it did sound a bit unhealthy and dangerous to me.
Also a bit problematic maybe because of the size of things.
Getting some brusch strokes in there is not that much of a problem for me as i will paint it with brush and oils in the
end. I will however read up on it and not discard it based on the little I have read about it so far.
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Need some advice on ABS printing.
I like the PLA it prints really god but...
It's so hard to get a perfect smooth surface unless using a filler and sanding.
I mostly print figures and as long they are nude it's not such a big problem to sand it.
But on a figure with cloths and accessories i would be a nightmare.
ABS on the other hand can smoothed to quite a nice surface by just brushing it with Aceton (don't know if it's called the same in English).
But, with ABS I have so much warping problem.
I have asked for help before and collected some advice i found and thing works far better but there is still a couple of problems that I would like suggestions on how to solve.
I now brush with ABS slurry before print. That makes a god bond.
I currently print direct on the slurry using neither raft or brim but just the skirt to prime the nozzle.
After first layer I turn of the heated bed and Fans are off all time for more even cooling.
Temperature first layer is 260 and thereafter 255.
Layer 0.1
Shell 0.8
I have two problems.
First image shows that there are problems in some places where i get holes.
Maybe not that surprising, maybe more of a surprise that it did work in PLA.
What would be the best solution here.
Any setting that can solve it or is an inner support needed or maybe i should add infill. But I don't want to risk more warping either.
Second image shows, but not in a very god way the other problem.
It's when a part is like a turned over cone. A small base and wider on the top.
Consider that the cone aren't round but more of an oval.
When printing, the pointier curves tens to warp upwards and sooner or later the nozzle will hit it with enough force to make it break of.
In the image it did not brake of but rather move a little so it's not that obvious.
Any suggestions.
More support could of course be added in the model itself of course but that wont prevent the real problem that is the warping that makes the nozzle bump into it so it might come lose anyway.
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Ok.
Here we go...
14.03
14.03 Test2
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How does 14.03 compare to 14.03-TEST from http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta/ ? I changed a few things related to this in the TEST.
I can do a testprint but witch of the testversions are you talking about. There is both a Test1 and a Test2.
One of the prints posted by PeggyB seems to be the test1 version if that's the one you want to compare.
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Nice to see the problem confirmed by someone else as well.
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I have posted a new topic in the Cura forum about the 14.03 issues.
As the problem not seem to be about under extrusion it does not belong in this tread.
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I'm not sure if it helps, but:Have you ever tried while printing the "material flow" directly on the machine in "TUNE" to adjust?
Yeah, that's what i did to figure out that lowering speed helps.
Also tried higher temperarure in the upper 1/3, 240deg i think but that made no difference.
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I'm mainly printing models made in zBrush.
In the 14.03 version surface looks a lot worse than in previous versions.
At least at the same speed.
In order to get a surface quality from 14.03 that I have in 14.01 or 13.12 i can only print at about 25-50% of the speed compared to the other versions.
The two images below shows an area of about 15x15mm.
The black dot is only to get the camera something to focus on.
Layer 0.1
Shell 0.8
Speed 50
Here is what the surface looks like in 14.01
And 14.03
Here is also a picture showing a print where the lower 1/3 is printed at 50% speed compared to the upper 2/3 that was printed at 100% speed (50mm/sec).
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This is what it looks like in Repetier.
Note: I dont know why Repetier shows infill because i had not any infill in the print.
ALSO!!
I will reprint the models tomorrow as the 13.12 not looked the same as the 14.01 in Repetier.
I think I might have printed one of the files twice (or they come out looking the same anyway).
So the comparison is not guarantied valid for a 13.12 vs 14.01 comparison.
However, as an indication of that something we might think is something random not really is.
For that it is still valid.
So, at the moment, as I dont really know witch file is witch I can really only draw one conclusion.
Both of the files of witch at least one was used for the latest print had quite a smooth surface wieved in Repetier (except for the spike in the 13.12 version)
Compared to the 14.03 witch with some zoom in shows a jaggy pattern
As I said I have to redo the test.
I will try to do that tomorrow.
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OK.
As illuminarti suggested my problem could be software related so i run a full speed test with Cura 14.01 and Cura 13.12 in order to compare it with my failed print made in Cura 14.03.
And he was right.
The 14.01 at bottom and 13.12 at top looks fine except for some small problems on them.
OK so, I suppose this should be reported as a software error in Cura.
But I also notice another thing.
If i not had printed both those out in order to compare them I would not have thought that the small bumps on the surface would had been anything else than a random air bubble or whatever. But, they are in exactly the same spots on both prints so I suppose that they actually are software related as well.
So some things we think depends on filament etc can actually have a totally different source.
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I used latest version. 14.03.
I have noticed Cura getting a lot slower in it's handling in last version so I expected there was quite some changes in it. I will try some previous versions.
Do i have to change the firmware as well?
Problem saving model file
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
File did not save named to head.amf so name did not change anything but...
Typing .stl as extension instead of keeping the default .amf worked fine.
Any thoughts?