wallan

Ok. Printing two pieces at the same time at 50mm/sec but with same result as before. So longer cooling time does not matter. Thought that in case this is under extruding then using the the tricks i used for the cylinder test to get less under extrusion and finally reach 10 cubic mm per second should help here to. So I made a test. This time printing a single part again. From down and up. First part is speed set to 50%, the slow way of printing i used before to get something to compare to. Then i increased speed to 100% and turned the heat up from 220 to 230. Last part i increased to 240 deg. When testing the cylinder 240 deg took me up to 8 cubic mm per second. In this print I only used 0,4 x 1,0 x 50 = 2 cubic mm per second. So, I'm quite sure that it's not under extrusion. My first thought was that head was loose and wobbling or something but it feels stable. But what is it, and if it is not under extrusion should i post in another tread?

Can't verify it now but i have all the settings at standard settings exept for shell that is set to 0,8. If 5 seconds is default i have it. Will check after work. By printing two at the same time, are you interested in what happens with retraction or just that a layer takes more time? Exept for the rough surface the one printed att normal speed is more matte and the slow print is more glossy. The part is abot 50mm.

I have a problem printing. As I suspect it might be because of under extrusion i have been reading this tread with interest. I have run the cylinder test today and made small change on the way starting of at a best of 5 cubic mm at 230 and finally reaching 10 cubic mm by move the filament spool, losen the skrews, lubricating the filament with WD40 (by just spraying a little in my hand and pulling the filament trough so its just a thin coat), rising temperature to 240 and running motor at 1500mA. I'm not quite there as some succeeding at 230 deg. Retching 8mm was done without putting more power on the motor. To reach 9mm i had to run it at 1350mA and to reach the final 10mm i moved it up to the 1500mA. Several had problem running at 1500mA as it grinded the filament. So, there is quite some resistance in my system but not more than It can manage to get the filament trough at 240 deg. Maybe if I had run at 230 deg then maybe I had gotten the grinding problem as well. Anyway. A couple of notes. Even if the spool is placed in god position there is quite some force needed to get it of the spool. Think of the filament as a plastic hook gripping the spool. I think a lot more force is needed to straighten out the filament in order to get it of the spool than what force is needed to get the spool to turn. If you understand what i mean. I made a test trying to preheat the filament in order to get the tension of it but as some one spot get softer than the rest it folds at that point. The other thought i had was to have the filament enter the bowen with it's bend matching the tube for least friction. I think I have reached the limit for my machine for now. If there is more to get out of it i think it has to do with getting the filament out through the print head and what is a realistic pressure to get it out. No point in something else breaking using brute force. I will follow this tread, it would be interesting to see if a solution will be found. For my own part I worry mostly about surface quality and not so much about speed. But even so,I feel like I now has to print silly slow. At least compared to when I it was brand new. I'm however not sure if the problem is under extrusion or not as it seems so random. I used to be able to print with standard 0.1 mm settings with nice surface. Now i have to go down to 25% speed or print 0.02 layers. This is what i get now if I print really slooow. And this is what i get printing normal speed (50mm). Is this under extrusion or is it the printhead moving randomly for some reason? And an image of the current spool solution. It stands on two rolls using printed roller bearings. Not super smooth movement so i might build a better one with real ball bearings but a lot better than the original. If it matters considering the stiffness of the PLA.

zBrush works quite fine for cutting up a model in parts.

Ah... I have made slurry of ABS a long time ago when using it as a glue. That is an interesting thought. It will smell like hell but might work. I will have to get it really thin dough so that the head wont hit it. And a wet towel yeah. When I realized the glue was water based I figured out that I could use a sponge to redistribute it. Works like a charm. With PLA at least. Can add that I use a cooling spray on the prints and they more or less pops of. Well, at least for PLA. ABS as you understand pops of by itself. Gonna try that slurry thing but I suppose my girlfriend will freak out.

I tried an enlarged Raft. Did not try the Brim as it is seems so fragile compared to a Raft. I use the Brim for PLA print as it is enough in that case and is easy to remove. So when switching to ABS it was the first i tried. I did however not enlarge it. But. Considering the way the ABS came lose I don't think a wider Brim would had made any difference. However, if it is the recommended solution i will of course try it. I'm printing using the glue.

Got mu Ultimaker 2 some weeks ago and PLA printing worked more or less fine straight out of the box. Then I tried ABS. I really like the ABS because of it's matte finish and also because it handled overhangs a lot better. However. So far I have only managed to print 1 item in 10 without it warping and coming lose or just coming lose anyway. As an estimate in the later case. When the print height starts to reach the width of the base it gets lose. I'm printing on a glue surface with default printer settings for ABS. I have tried to turn of the Fans witch went a little better but not by much. I found raft to be best and I also enlarged the raft getting it to stick a little better but still not god enough. Any advice? I can also add that I tried to increase the height of the raft but the result of that was that the last layer of the raft not stuck to the layer below so even though the raft stayed in place the print together with the top raft layer come lose.