wallan

My girlfriend is a lot int recycling and upcycling. She would really like to get into 3D printing BUT.. If so it has to be using recycled plastic. I have tried to find recycled filament but so far without any luck. Any one that have found a source? Some options. I think that I once found recycled pellets. Did not find it now but if that exist and I buy a filabotor filamaker I could make my own filament from pellets. That would however cost and I'm not sure I like the idea of one more heat generating device. Or, one could get a shredder as well, more money. The only plastic I have in any quantity would be PET. Is that material even usable for 3D printing considering it's not a common filament? I'm also a bit worried about my girlfriend going crazy starting to collect everything she can find in any garbage and take it home to our small apartment for cleaning in the bathtub etc. When she asked me I was skeptical about print quality from a mix of bottles even if they have the same markings. Same type of plastic does probably not guarantee same specifications. I mean, even PLA from different manufacturers might need different settings for a god quality print. What do you all think about this question concerning recycling, different plastics and print quality.

I use Ultimaker white ABS printing figures split up in parts with no infill. I apply ABS slurry to glass (that so far have had glue on it because of previous PLA prints:-) ). Dont remember exact numbers but it something like: Fans of all time. First layer, bed and hotend at default ABS temperature. After second layer hotend at around 230 (think I have gone even lower, I go as low as possible,as long as layers stick to each other it's ok), bed 0 (yes i turn it off), layer 0.1, shell 0.8-1.2, speed 30-50mm. If print ends into something pointy I might turn on fans.

I have never dissmounted mine so I'm not sure how it looks. But normally I would expect there to be a pice of flat surface for the screw so that it wont slide on the axis. Also, if it work fine just after you tighten it but comes lose after a while, maybe due to vibrations. Then try using a screw locking cement. If you don't have one then you kan use woodglue or a little paint for nails on the treads. Just dont use something to strong like cyano glue or epoxie. Or if bying dedicated locking cement one of the stronger kinds because then you will need heat if you need to remove it. Maybe you should check the status of the treads as well as normally it should be enough to just tighten firmly.

I also had some problem and the thing that did the most difference for me was to build a low friction holder that I placed on the floor below and behind the printer so that the filament goes straight up in the feeder and in a direction that makes the curve of the filament on the holder match the curve on the bowden. That way I have minimal friction. I think that fixed most of the print speed issues on my part. I also spray a little WD40 on the filament roll. That way the bowden gets lubricated as well. Before doing this I could not print at 50mm/sec 0.1 mm layer without feeder skipping but now I have no issues at all at that speed. I can still not reach the 100 cubic mm per second unless increasing temperature to 240deg but that's a none issue as I never print that fast anyway.

I guess that you can't prime unless doing it by hand as well as i supose you only want to paint the numbers and use plastic only on the rest of the dice. By the way, do you use brush or some kind of a marker. If using a marker i think it can be hard as the paint is extreamly thin. If using a brush and a little thicker paint i think the problem might be bad bonding between layers. Make sure thay you dont have under extrusion problems and if not, try to print a little hotter.

Nice

Almost one week and no answer from the experts You must have poste at a wrong time or forum. I'm no expert but why not try to run a the speed test. It could tell you if there are any problems with fillament flow. http://umforum.ultim...s-test-it-here/

A small update to the pinup WIP. I have now sculpted lingerie onto the body using Aves Epoxy. I had not planed to do that from the beginning so the model/sculpture is not as god as it could have been. Normally cloth affects the shape of the body and the body affects the shape of the clothes. It only goes one direction this time. Model is primed with matte white car paint. I'm planning to paint with brush and water based oil colors. (I could have spray painted it but I no longer have the right place for that activity and I also find masking to be so darn BORING. Maybe someother time). In order for that to work there must be god grip for the oils so that I can work them out and get them really even without getting spots of lighter and darker. The car paint I use is not quite matte enough to give me that grip so I have also sprayed a layer of Liquitex Matte Varnish. It creates a really matte finish that ensures god grip. Next is to paint it. Now, don't expect anything to appear for a while (unless you want to see progress images from the painting process) as it can take a month and even more for some colors to dry.

Sounds promising indeed :-)

Sculpting a rough model in some medium har oilbased clay is something i really like. I's fast, not hard onyou hand and establishes a lot of the model. Working with details I like better in zBrush where I can zoom in and redo. Would had been nice to sculpt first part inclay,3ds scann and continue in zBrush.

I'm have been sculpting for while, just a hobby so no pro level results so far. Been working in Sculpey, Apoxie Sculpt and Chavant. Also if more than one is needed or sculpting is done in Chavant one has make moulds and do casting as well. That was ok when i lived in a house with garage and such but now that I live in flat i dont have the space so switched to zBrush and 3D because of that.

Of course zBrush is the prefered program. But, for a person with high moral standards it's also a $795 investment.

Filling and sanding done. In stead of spraying filler I brush it on. The one component fast drying car putty in the image is what i use. I use it as it comes on the tube or mix it with Xylene to get it brushable. I think I get better control when applying it with a brush. Now it's time to sculpt some lingerie. I will do that with traditional sculpting as I think that sculpting them in 3D and get them to print god as well as filling and sanding will take a lot longer than doing it by hand.

I recommend downloading Sculptris and give it a try. Free, same type of modelling as in zBrush, same controlls but without the intimidating user interface. Just save often as it is not as stable.

Just realised all the accessories that I now can print for the on camera flashes

Oh, can add that it was not the reference phography that I liked so much. Interest was mostly in playing god with the studio lights, playing with light and shadow. Favorite categories beeing pinup and fine art nude. Also,the Images at the site is mixed quality as they are from different sets, in different states of finishing(though most are finished), at that moment mostly placed there in order to test the site. My main image site can no longer bee accessed as I no longer pay for the account. However, I think there are some nice images even soo. Can also add that the Easter Fairy (second meny/fantasy) shoot was the session that catched me a girlfriend.

I'm really a Nikon guy but I have to admitt that i have a G12 as well. Nikon's own fault as they not had anything that could match the G12. Bought a Nikon D800 last summer but have not taken more than maybe 200 images with it. My trusty D300 that I used a lot during the two years a so that i had model photography as a hobby was used for over 200.000 images before i gave it to my doughter. If anyone want to take a peek at some of the sessions i did you can take a look at modellfoto.wallentins.se The page is in swedish so if you don't understand that then you should look under second and third menu. Also have to rise a small nudity warning conserning the Fine Art Nude category. This, model photography thing has it's little story. Initially l was into sculpting and in need for reference images. But, the sources I found never had just that image that i wanted. So I sterted to think that maybe I could make my own. Started to investigate how and were to find models and after collecting enough currage i contacted some modells and a couple of them were interested so I bought the D300 and started to shoot my own reference. I even built a turntable so the model could keep here pose will I rotated her and shooting with a remote. I liked doing this so mutch that it actually replaced the sculpting as my hobby for a couple of years. Untill one day,I was contacted by a model that like my images and wanted to work with me. To cut the story short, we now has lived together for almost two years :smile:

Same here. Taking a sneak peek at the forum as often I get a chance. Just want to get home and do some printing or modeling. Guess your into photography as you asked Gr5 about it? I photgraphed a lot some years ago. Had a studio in the house but since moving to a flat a couple of years ago I have hardly taking any pictures at all. I'm most inte studio shooting and it's to much work and not really enough place to set it up nowdays.

Mine was perfect and did not wobble att all. But the desk on with I put it is not perfect flat so it wobbles a little. Do I care. No. Does it print with excellent quality. Yes. And if you can't stand it wobbling. Then just print something that fixes the problem.

Thank's Missed the possibilities to 3D print since the first time i touched a 3D app, And now it's here. Can hardly believe it

Posting a WIP of my latest print. Model is printed in 16 parts. That way I don't need any support(saves on print time and material), can print the part as vertical as possible (gives the best surface), have parts that not are to tall compared to height(won't fall that easy) and loads into Cura with no problems(there are some problems with to many polygons). I printed one in ABS and one in PLA in order to find out if I prefer filling and sanding or using Acetone. I think that Acetone applied with a brush probably is the best way if I want to preserve very small details but I don't like inhale to much of that stuff or to change workplace in order to get better ventilation. When it comes to PLA i brush on filler in stead of spraying. That way I can add it more precise and only apply where it's needed. Plan is to post WIP pictures of the PLA model if there is any interest in me doing so. Time to start to apply some filler and start sanding. Same grey can already be seen on the model. That's Aves Apoxie. I have used some in places where I got some holes in the model because I forgot to turn on upper layers. It will also be used to make some garments for her later on.

Ok. Thank,s for a straight answer. Will continue to split the models in smaller part until solved.

When I talk about polygons being visible, I'm talking about visible in the print and not about polygons visible in CAD. zBrush has excellent tools for reducing polygons in an intelligent way, but as long as i can see polygons in the printed model I can't se how the result would be better with even less polygons. Would like to show an image if I could but all the parts with visible polygon edges has gone trough an Acetone treatment in order to remove them. And just so there is no missunderstanding. The model that had the visible edges was a 300k polygon model and not the one with 4million.

Well, if it was for 3D rendering I could do that but... I have printed this model before at lower reoslution but one can easy spot the polygon edges on the faces in the surfaces that should be perfectly smooth. That does not mean that it could not be possible to go down to maybe 3 or maybe even a little bit less. I think the model that showed polygons in print was a 1 millon model but I don't remeber. It could have have been 256k in case I totally forgotten to subdivide it. I have to check. If it was 256k then I can give 1millon polygons a chance. Will get back on that. However, this is a clean model and if it was a more complicated one polygon count whould go up even more. So, what is Cura supposed to be able to handle? zBrush handles the 4 million polygon model easy and it's the same with meshmixer. So why does cura have to struggle, why is there no message in case something went wrong and if it acctually did load after all, why cant I see it. OK. Some updates. The model that showed visible polygons had 300k polygons. So I suppose that I at least should try a 1.2 million polygon to avaluate if that is god enough.

Are there any size limits on models in Cura? I'm currently using 14.03 but I have had the same problem in previous versions as well. So far I have solved it with splitting up the model but all splits generates more post work on the final model so I would like to split it up less if possible. The model that currently gives me problem is about 4,2 million polygons. When loading it takes quite a while but when finished there is no model to be found or any kind of message either. Sometimes loaded models gets very small so maybe there is a tiny model somewhere but i can't find it.