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lennart-bruggink

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Posts posted by lennart-bruggink

  1. Not my design, but an awesome print nonetheless:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/5lhjrtbejxq593e/2013-12-23%2020.27.11.jpg

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/7hckd30duh87h0k/2013-12-24%2018.54.10.jpg

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/qq5h5ekwjgknqti/2013-12-24%2018.54.27.jpg

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/nlqk1x2tq0p6kq5/2013-12-24%2018.54.41.jpg

    Hope the pictures come through, they are from my dropbox.

    ( Edit: pictures didn't came through. Is there any way i can show the pictures directly from dropbox instead of linking to dropbox?

    I did about 3 hours to remove the support and remove almost all of the retraction caused stuff.

    Tank print after this one failed horribly though. Meshmixer didn't do it for the 70mb file someone wanted me printed :(

    Now printing another tank:

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:178292/#files

    Cheers,

    Lennart

     

  2. Hi!

    I have some questions:

     

    Much better!

    I see the bottom of your test print is lifting off the bed. Time to start using the glue stick again.

    Also I see lots of stringing between the two posts. You can reduce that to nothing if you want although it means slowing down printing:

    ultimaker2 retraction settings

    There are 6 retraction related settings:

    1) Make sure retraction is checked on basic/quality

    >> done

    2) In expert settings set minimum travel to 0mm or at least something small like 1mm.

    >> will 0.5 work too or should it be 0.1?

    3) In expert settings set "minimal extrusion..." to 0mm. I hate this setting right now.

    >>Why should this help? Can I expect grinding issues with this one going at 0?

    4) In expert settings you can set "combing" on or off - it shouldn't make a huge difference for this part. Lately turning this "off" seems better in the current version of Cura but in the next version it might be best to turn it back on.

    >> I will leave it on for now. If issues persist perhaps i will turn it off ( Cura 13.11.2 right now)

    5,6) On the printer, you can control retraction there also Leave the retraction speed alone but change the retraction amount from 4.5mm to 5.5mm.

    >> done and done

     

     

    Ok,

    When more issues arrise I will check back in.

    Again thanks, Gr5

     

  3. Hey Gr5 ( George?)

    Yeah "The coffin's cube" .

    it was on the disk when UM2 shipped so i wanted to print it ;)

    Cool that you know him, it's like a small world afterall! ( STILL haven't solved it btw)

    Anyway, check out my new 8 hour print ( with 3 hours of support and retraction problem cleaning)!

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/wf0rvxyvfqwvjnb/2013-12-23%2020.26.59.jpg

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/5lhjrtbejxq593e/2013-12-23%2020.27.11.jpg

    and after cleaning

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/3mt7ycrwieiqjem/2013-12-24%2000.03.09.jpg

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/1al1acnkbf0omzb/2013-12-24%2000.03.31.jpg

    ( retraction settings: only the onboard retraction was set to 5.5 instead of 4.5)

    Actually the support generated was a pain to remove together with the stringing, thus I think next time I will generate it with Meshmixer.

    Also the overhangs are a problem, but the print came out really nice for one of the first prints.

    Cheers!

    Lennart

     

  4. Maybe it is not as bad to make a dremel attachment for sandblasting.

    In my unbiased view,

    there should be a fitter to put onto the dremel,

    a rotary fan which converts the rotating speed of the dremel to air speed

    an inlet to a sand holder container which the container is airtight,

    an outlet from that container ( preferably tangential entrance? to keep the particles suspended in air when coming out)

    preferably an open point between the inlet and outlet of the container, to force air to go to the container, but to also have more carrying air,

    and a nozzle

    perhaps the dremel isn't really needed, i heard there is a fan/ compressor design on youmagine.com.

    Just my 2 cents as a process engineer.

    Paint skills!

    Naamloos.pnghttps://www.dropbox.com/s/ihfo64p4er80cgu/Naamloos.png

     

  5. So now with the glue stick and the retraction settings to 5.5 some better prints have been made.

    Coffins cube (still havent solved it):

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/f0ze4spoce26qzy/2013-12-22%2019.15.54.jpg

    Ultimaker brobot printing in action:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/hjdmfznseh24apx/2013-12-22%2017.14.34.jpg

    all in all, Looks good!

    some minor overhang improvement is needed.

    I'm going to print something more intricate first and see how Cura handles it.

    Cheers!

     

  6. Yikes. Your UM2 is in bad shape. First of all in the first video you posted I could clearly see that the X axis was moving - I think you were probably pushing it - but the stepper motor wasn't turning. One of the set screws needs tightening - fix that first! It's very easy - there are very small screws to tighten the pulleys to the shaft. Tighten those a lot - very very tight. Then when you push the head back and forth the stepper motor should move also. This may help solve your limit switch issue.

     

     

    Done! It seems to have solved the problem for hitting the clips too, as i am now printing a cal test:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/afpehlr9na2fch2/2013-12-21%2021.43.12.3gp

    (see the video for the first calibration print, and second in action)

    Some issues with the edges remain, however. I am now grinding the forums to look for how to improve this.

    Any tips, as usual, are welcome.

    Sidenote: I did use the glue stick that came with the UM2, but it wasn't helping so I scratched the glue off again. This gave more grip.

     

    The second problem is your print head isn't assembled properly. In this picture here you can see that the right side of the head - near the bottom has a huge gap making the bottom plate, the fans and the fan shrouds all crooked. This is a problem which will make the right fan shroud touch your clips that hold the glass on. Also it might hit your parts as you are printing.

    To fix this I think you need to loosen the 4 very long screws, reposition the bottom plate and tighten again. Possibly/likely you only need to loosen the two screws on the right.

     

    The crooked fan shroud indeed remains, but luckily now is not yet a limiting factor anymore. I was already thinking of loosening the fan.

    Also fresh from the press: (dutch saying translated in english)

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/kl4wk9saq5vcghx/2013-12-21%2022.12.27.jpg

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/acbpat3ze30v67x/2013-12-21%2022.12.21.jpg

    Cheers!

    Lennart

     

  7. OK i have done some adjustments,

    and it works!

    My conclusion: the metal is really weak from the home "clipper" and in a relaxed state it missed the header home.

    This is my improvised version:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/de9ox1plq61zohf/2013-12-21%2014.17.31.jpg

    ( some tape and pads for furniture ( thanks to Ikea))

    and a video on how it homes properly now:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/8pnyeejde7ze1dj/2013-12-21%2014.24.33.3gp

    This evening i will make a calibration test print again: still some issues remain!

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/8pnyeejde7ze1dj/2013-12-21%2014.24.33.3gp

    Cheers,

    Lennart

     

  8. Hi guys,

    My Ultimaker 2 has arrived yesterday, but it seems to need some tinkering as well to get it running (excitement was bit tempered though). So let's fix it!

    The problem described above is one that I also seem have. A lot of noise when homing in.

    My first question on this, Should I tighten the bolts in the axis from the drive belt from the step motor? Loose, calibration print is not square ( actually i have no idea what it should look like), Tightened, Motor grinding as in the video from the first post.

    when I only loosen the one connected to the motor, it is not always "gripping" in properly when moving the extruder left to right. (see video for what I mean)

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/357xmnbkygv0jio/2013-12-20%2017.07.41.3gp

    Any tips?

    For more info and my second problem:

    calibration print:(Minicaltest: believe it or not)

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/kl7s1gr0znway03/2013-12-20%2016.40.50.jpg

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qv2bz6wahok6x8/2013-12-20%2016.41.26.3gp

    I think its related to the above question. So that one goes first.

    another issue om having regarding to leveling and the fan cover hitting the clip:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/mw3keqmavz9uyoo/2013-12-20%2015.18.53.jpg

    Any advice on that?

    Allright, Thanks in advance!

     

  9. if the Filastruder soudns too ominous, at the London 3D print show there was a company called FilaFab. the rates are rather high, as off 600~700 pounds.

    I advised them to get funded by the plastic manufacturers, which can give them credit because of teh manufacturers "ownership of end- life plastic".

    If anyone in the netherlands wants to set - up an extruder project, I'm interested in hearing what the ideas are!

    Cheers,

    Lennart

     

  10. Dear All,

    In preparing my upcoming delivery of the Ultimaker 2, I want to build an addon from 4mm acryllic plate. Because I have a cat, and I know cats can be lethal around 3D printers.

    Therefore i'd like to know the exact dimensions/drawings of the front screen/plate and top plate, to set up a laser cutter.

    My question; where can i find these drawings, and perhaps someone has already done some tinkering and advise me in making hinges.

    Regards,

    Lennart

     

  11. Hey Sander,

    Thanks for making a list for the UM2 delivery dates. Mine will arrive somewhere between 2/12 to 8/12 so I hope it'll be enough to play with before the 3D hubs christmas event.

    As for ideas, can you post something about how fast a printer is produced from base parts up to boxing? I'd be interested to know.

    Anyway, it was good seeing you in London!

    Cheers,

    Lennart

     

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