celso-santos
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Posts posted by celso-santos
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Why Cura cannot print open surfaces ?
It understands close surfaces and even gives us the chance to choose the wall width. It would be great if we could print surfaces. We should just define the direction that the wall should grow from.
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I've just printed a part 252mm wide inclined 45º on top of the bed.
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I am baffled with the difficulty to reassemble the material feeder. The problem is that once we loose the 4 screws you realize that the motor inside where there are the 4 female threads becomes completely loose making it almost impossible to hold it in position while we screw the feeder in place with all of its parts also loose.
It would be much easier if the motor was put in place with two screws, thus making it very simple to install and uninstall the 4 screws to open the feeder.
Celso
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Have you seen the Arburg new machine? http://www.arburg.com/fileadmin/redaktion/Mediathek/Prospekte/ARBURG_freeformer_680836_en_GB.pdf
This may be a game changer!
Celso
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Rguzzo
I've had this same problem and solved it without disassembling the nozzle, what seems to be a delicate task, that can potentially create new problems.
Frequently when I start to print and get nothing, I do the following.
1. Go to Maintenance, Advanced, Move Material.
2. Wait till the temperature rises, then try to turn the knob clockwise and check if the material is coming out.
3. If the material does not come out, introduce a needle ( it must have a diameter less than 0.4mm) from under the nozzle, than move the wheel again.
4. If that doesn't work, change material. You will see that the material is partially dented. Cut this part out and reintroduce it in the feeder.
5. 10 in 10 times this has solved my clogging problems so far.
I observed that in some days, specially when its raining and humidity is high, printing becomes very difficult. I still need to understand this better.
I also still want to see a well documented (with text and good pictures or even with a video) dismantling of the feeder and the nozzle. For me these are the main critical points yet to be covered for a basic maintenance of the U2
Celso
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Jonny
The thing is that injection molding machines already work this way even in dirty environments (no need of clean room) and can produce clean and perfect parts. High quality plastics are already available in pellets, and using them in an FFF machine seems to me the perfect future, because we can get better and more diversified supply of plastics for a cheaper price.
The challenge, in my view, is to be able to incorporate a high quality and small extruder in our FFF machines.
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I print a lot of solid parts, because I want to have the final appearance of the injected or blow molded final part.
The point is that usually you do not need more than 3mm width in a plastic part. Whenever you have more than that you will have problems in the production of your part, unless this thick area is on a double curvature place.
If you want to produce a part that is really thick, like 10 mm or more, than just decide what wall thickness you want, usually not more than 1,5mm or 2mm and choose that 25% square grid infill in Cura, suggested by Valcrow.
You will be good with this option
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Is there any option to print a bass relief or high relief based on pictures using Cura? Has anyone tried that?
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Finally I am getting closer to the truth! Check the image of a natural PLA filament as it went out of the nozzle in one of my Move Material trials. I think that the small black dirty spots are still traces of the black ABS filament that I experimented some time ago. It didn't clog my nozzle but remains of it may be the cause for an unstable behavior of my printings.
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Well, the problem is that sometimes I can print just OK like now, after I changed again the filament. This time I am being able to print perfectly. This filament I am using is from Ultimaker. Some of other filaments are probably chinese, sold here by brazilian companies. These filaments have a ø 3mm rather then the recommended 2,85mm from Ultimaker. Could this be the problem?
The point is that many times I can print perfectly with them. Then, when I try to print something else, even using U filament but nothing happens.
Can you print anything you want reliably each time you want?
If the point lies in using the right filament, I've just ordered a bunch of new ones and will forget any other options.
Thanks for the help.
Celso
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I am printing at 60mm/s with .06 mm in layer height. Temperature is 220ºC and plate is set to 60ºC. The skip back at 14 sec. is what I was talking about.
Maybe there is a partial clog in the nozzle, but if that was the case I would not Move Material from it so easily, don't you think? Any options to rule this out without disassembling the nozzle?
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You can see and hear in this small video the "squeak" sound I am talking about. It does that many times while I cannot print anything.
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My U2 printer now is regularly skipping. It makes that "squeak" sound and prints nothing. Then I check the nozzle that seems OK, move some material, what works right and then, when I try to print something, the printer head starts moving around but no material comes out of the nozzle.
Sometimes I change material and after 7 trials I can print something, but then the problem happens again and I have to go through the same litany one more time.
The "squeak" sound keeps on happening and I don't know what to do.
Should I tighten the feeder? How do I do that?
Celso
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Iluminarti
Absolutely amazing feature! Why is this not advertised as one of the incredible features of Cura?
Can we transform the .amf file in .stl file?
Thanks
Celso
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My basic question is how can I make a 3D print in my Ultimaker 2 that reproduces one picture? This is a lithophane isn't it?
Can we do it with Cura? What is the easiest and best method to produce lithophanes? How can we also go further and make a true 3D print like 10mm high reproducing a picture?
Celso
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Life is easier now that I have my own ABS printed Little Helper!
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I bought this new spool and didn't know how to make it work with my U2. Then I decided to design an universal support that would fit any spool and position it close to the current U2 spool. I used a 3/4" stainless steel tube that I had at the office and the result was quite good.
Now I am searching for the right size O Ring to fit at the base.
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On an other subject, but still playing with light, I have tried to print a small medal. It came out a bit like watercolor painting, and I really like the result with the light behind.
The original model is really thin and is 12cm wide. I have scaled it down to 5cm to the diameter in Cura so the actual thickness of the building has also been decreased from the original design (around 0.8mm thickness for the front tower, nearly 0mm for the back). Even the cloud on tho is clearly visible.
This printer is amazing!
How did you get the 3d design of the part? It came from a picture? How?
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There are two questions that I would like to raise:
1. Cura time calculation is a mess. My latest example was a part that I designed yesterday. When I generated the g code Cura informed me that U2 would take 30 hours to print the part. In fact it took 17 hours.
Why that happens? Can Cura be more...sorry...acCURAte?
2. Sometimes I leave my part printing and go away. I'd love to have a setting that makes my machine turn off after a part production is finished. Can that be made?
Celso
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Hi Nicolinux
The problem with the finishing of the top of your turtle has nothing to do with the printing method, temperature or the machine. Your turtle 3D drawing must have on the top what we call a degenerative point. If you add a bunch of U and V isolines to the surface of your 3d drawing, you will easily observe that all converge to one point.
When any CNC machine tries to produce this surface it usually makes a mess in the final point due to the poor geometry that produced it.
There are some different methods to create domed surfaces to avoid this problem.
Celso
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OK, here are my first two prints: a wheel and a tire in scale 1:13. The outside diameter of the part is 45 mm (the coin has
Ø 20mm). Printed in PLA in 3 hours - Nozzle temp. 220C - Bed temp. 60ºC no glue - speed 50mm/s .
I am very happy with the results achieved so far. Machine is working as clockwork.
Celso
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I received my Ultimaker 2 two days ago and had some trouble to find my way, but thanks to the wonderful help from the many experts of this forum ( that have the habit to show goodwill and patience with newbies like me) I could overcome all the basic problems and started printing the first of a thousand things that I have already designed and want to see in 3D.
The machine is beautiful, very sophisticated and well built and I feel that we should have videos explaining some of the basic problems that are frequently addressed by users.
Anyway, just by reading the discussions and experiences exchanged in this forum I could learn a lot and start to discover how to make nice prints.
thanks for the help, and let's move on!
Celso
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Hi Aaron
1. Do you use glue to make parts stick to surface?
2. These settings you are talking about, you determine them when producing the geode or afterwards at the machine when before print starts (or even after) ?
Celso
What do you do with last piece of filament on spool?
in Materials & profiles
Posted · Edited by Guest
I think that this issue deserves some comments from UM experts. I too have lots of spools with not enough material to print things I want. We should definetely research a way to weld filament tips so that the weld becomes good enough to survive going through the feeder.
Celso