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truckle

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  1. I've just finished my iPhone cover in bronze. Printed well at .1 level, temp 210, flow at 108%. First photo is as printed. Then sanded with 180, 400,600,800,1000 grit successively. Finally I used Brasso for the final polish. I felt that the material is a little more friable than normal pva, so you have to be careful not to be hard when polishing. Overall the effect is great - gives my phone a sort of steampunk look!
  2. It may be that I'm missing something basic, but how do you alter the build plate temp and get it to become the default? My temp is set at 75, I alter it to 60 but at the next print it's back to 75. I've tried to go down to led settings and saving but it still resets to 75 each time.
  3. Finally finished "A better Dragon", by Illuminarti. 24 hour print. I had problems with retraction settings being off and needed a bit of rescue work with the supports using emergency matchsticks and scoops of pritstick. post print cleanup wasn't easy, but I got there in the end! Printed with Ultimaker gold. 0.1 layer, speed 35mm, temp 230, bed 70, no infill, 0.8 thickness.
  4. I'm about half way through this print, 11 hours to go! I've had to dive in with some matchstick struts and glue as some of the supports are wobbling, but that repair seems to have saved the day, so far. My question is; can you look at the photo and notice how messy the support printing is? Lots of extra tags and one or two supports came off the bed. I'm using Ultimaker gold, 0.1 layer, speed 35, travel 150, bed 60, print temp 230. Any advice on why my support is not as neat as Illuminarti's? Should I be doing anything else at this stage? 11 nervous hours ahead...
  5. On further investigation; I tried a long print again and observed the fans. The left side fan is on all the time, as soon as I turn on the printer. The back (central) fan and the right side fan both came on at the same times as soon as the print started the second layer. So now all 3 are going fast. The print is going ok except that the first layer was not binding to the build plate as well as usual, but it may be because of needing more glue on it, or possibly connected to the wrong fans being on? Any observations or advice on this please? Thanks
  6. I've checked the connections and they all seem secure. So I guess the next stage is having a look at the electronics board , not sure about this bit, but do I remove the large rectangular box under the printer to find it? Unknown waters here for me!
  7. Thanks, I re cut the Bowden tube and now it doesn't move when I pull on it fairly hard, so thanks for that! I'll test it when I've sorted my fan problem out.
  8. I've just noticed that my rear fan is not on at all. Should there be something I should do about this? I am sure it used to be on, but not always from the start, I thought it was like the side fans and came on when it 'felt like it'!
  9. I've just noticed that during my current print the Bowden tube has 'popped up' from the hot end leaving a gap of about half cm between it and the hot end. I can just see the filament going in unsupported. This happened earlier, so I aborted the print and re-pushed in the tube and made sure the collar was tight, up and the little insertion spacer was pushed in. Re-started the print and now it's happened agin, about 15 mins into the print. It is actually still printing the bottom layers perfectly well, but as it's a 9 hour print I don't know what will happen later. Has anyone come across this before and do you think the current print will go ok? I am not sure how essential it is for the Bowden tube to be firmly pushed into the bottom of the extruder part.
  10. I'm in the same boat - no experience of CAD at all, but I would like to make a simple hanger for my headphones - like a coat hook, so really simple. I tried using Cubify Invent as I have it installed but it is impossible to understand without, I suspect, hours in the help files. Which of these free programs yo have all mentioned would be best to design a simple bracket as I described, with no frills or extras needed in the program? At least something to give me a stepping stone to understanding this stuff! Thanks.
  11. Comparison of prints with and without mineral oil application. The effect of rubbing in mineral oil onto pla prints is only a subtle improvement in some cases. Here are two owls. The first is without any application of oil. The second pic (same owl print) has had some mineral oil rubbed in. You may be able to detect a difference, I think it is better. To be fair I think the difference was more in the case of the treasure chest!
  12. Print is full size, i used 0.2 layers to save time and thought I'd do a longer 0.1 layer print later but I don't think I have to now, I'm quite happy with the results at this resolution. It's the first print I've made with the brass colour. It is a little darker than the first print pics show, like brass that needs a clean! It's difficult to show the correct colour on screen but definitely lighter than the dinosaur print, Nicolinux. The mineral oil I got from Ikea and they use it for oiling chopping boards, so I figured it must be food safe and would suit pla, it's only the second time I've tried it. I just rubbed it all over and dried with tissues. Surface end up nicely glistening but not greasy. The only problem would be that I cannot paint over it now with my acrylic paints (I was considering painting up the studs and getting an aged rusty effect, but maybe another time).
  13. Final print done overnight, no problems. I've put some pics up. First two are the print straight off the 'press', no cleaning or sanding, hinge worked straight away. The next four are after very minor tidying up and some filing on the chest top edges to get the lid to sit fully down. The filament is Ultimaker brass used at t225 and a bed temp of t75. Glued baseplate, and there was no trouble with the print lifting or distorting. I finished off the print with mineral oil which gives a great finish to the brass colour. In real life the colour is slightly darker and more brass like than the last four pics show.
  14. Excellent advice. I'm printing it already, but if this doesn't work I'll do what you suggest. I don't feel like cancelling the print again at the moment! Shame you can't adjust settings on the fly!
  15. The print failed because it has to print a small rectangular area on the inside of the end of the chest. There was not enough support to hold it and the print filaments ended up over 'air' so collapsed. It recovered fairly well but it left holes in the flat end area. I will try increasing infill to 10 or 15%. I will post a photo when I am successful!
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