aviphysics

Seems like they might be phasing this hot end out for a very similar one that uses a cartridge heater. They charge the same price for both, but the description says they made the cartridge heater version because it is easier to manufacture. However, they charge the same price for both.

Additional: One good reason to just go with purpose specific IC instead of MCU, is that you will likely need some chips to control power for the heater and motor anyway. I don't think it will be that much more to just get something that rolls as much as possible into one package. At least that was my experience when I went to build a stepper motor driver a while ago. For the price of a suitable MOSFET, I was able to get a stepper motor controller IC with almost everything built in.

For temperature control, I am near certain that you could find an IC specifically designed to do the job. Same for the motor control. Both could probably take input from a variable resistors configured to act as a voltage dividers. Personally, if I were going to use a micro controller, I would use a PIC. I don't however believe that an Arduino derivative is entirely out of the question. One option is something like the Arduino Micro (~$10). He could also make his own design using an Arduino compatible MCU.

What do you need the Arduino for?

I am starting to go from patient to really irritated about how long Ultimaker is taking to ship. It seems to take 48 hours for them to give a reply to anything, even if I reply back before the open of business in the Netherlands. (In Netherlands time) Dec 10th 8 am: I created the ticket on the Dec 12th 12:40 pm: Ultimaker responds that they recognize the problem, recommend resolution and ask for shipping address. Dec12th 3 pm: I reply with shipping address Dec 16th 2:30 pm: They ask for more info Dec 17th 4:30 am: I provide the additional info So it has now been a week. They have recognized that there is a problem. I have been relatively quick to respond to their requests for information, and they seem to be treating the problem with all the urgency of a sundial. Maybe there is something I don't get about Netherlands culture, but it doesn't seem like it should take this long. :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :(

So, how is the E3D head working out? What does it allow you to work with above and beyond the stock head?

Funny that they don't list it as h6, but the tolerance seems to match.

Also wanted to add that Heli-Cal makes good helical couplings for the U.S. market. You have to call for a quote, but they are inexpensive, will take small orders, and ship fast. Always been really friendly too. The other thing I like about them is that they seem to have coupling for virtually any combination of diameters.

I am thinking of trying this version, which uses the original rod. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:189742

I saw a fan shroud mod that looked very similar to the UIti2 fan shroud, so I was considering trying that. Are printed feet bad or just not helpful?

Hey all, I am hoping to get some suggestions for the most helpful mods to implement on a new Ultimaker Original. Please share some of your Ultiwisdom, if you would be so kind. Thanks, Avi

Just thought of a simple solution to the issue with the t-slots. Adding hex nuts to the six screws before inserting them will resolve the problem.

Started on the Z platform and found that the 30mm screws are bottoming out in the t-slots in step 4.

I might do that, just so I will have experience having done it. Their support team might get there in the end, but they aren't exactly lightning fast. Asked for and received my shipping address on the 12th at around noon (their time). Haven't heard back from them yet about shipping information. Wish I had a better idea about how long this was going to take. My reason for not pushing forward with assembly has been that I don't want to refinish everything to match. Staining and lacquering took a lot of time and effort. I just about had a mental brake down when I discovered the panel didn't fit. Funny thing is that I looked around for information on checking all the QCing the parts upon delivery, and didn't find anything. Wish I had taken the time to find the cut files and figured it out for myself. Then I could have spent last weekend doing something besides breathing fumes.

Need to think of something to do with the old parts now. Some of them I will likely keep for spares. I think I will have to cut the frame up to get the bearing out. They were a real tight squeeze to get in there. That pretty much means it won't be useful for building another ultimaker, even if I get all the other parts together. The wood is really nice, but I am afraid the finish might release some bad stuff if I laser cut it.

Finally got a decision from Ultimaker, they recommended replacing the laser pack entirely. They will be shipping one to me soon. I am not looking forward to going through the finishing process again, or waiting for the shipment, but at least least I will have the right parts.

Do you have any problems with knots? The Woodcraft stuff is not the fancy aircraft grade plywood that the machine is made from. I am a little worried that it might not work so well in the laser cutter.

It doesn't look like it slipped. For starters, the outline of where it was cut out is perfectly smooth and complete. Also, when the panel is flipped, putting the motor incorrectly on the front side of the machine, the outline of left and right panels matches perfectly (even in the incorrect flipped orientation the tabs don't fit in the rectangular slots.) In other words, it would have been a strange slip that managed to produce this result.

Heard back from Ultimaker now. They said they are looking into it and hope to have a solution soon. I hope they find the problem, To me it looks like someone used the wrong file to cut the parts, or something like that. I hope this did not happen to very many panels.

I did put in a support ticket. I put it in Sunday night.

I ordered an Ultimaker off of Maker Shed and during assembly discovered that the left panel is wrong (see pictures). It would in no way fit on the left side of the machine and when I matched up its feet with that of the right side, I found that the ball bearing didn't line up. You can also see that the rectangular slots for the tabs don't line up either. I e-mailed both Ultimaker and MakerShed on Monday and haven't yet heard back from either. I have access to a laser cutter, so it seems like the only other option is to laser cut a replacement panel. What I need to know is a good place to get the birch plywood in the U.S. and whether it has to be 6mm, or if 1/4" will suffice. Thanks for your advice, this has been an extremely aggravating experience and I would really like to move on from it. You can view a few more comparison shots here. http://imgur.com/a/6bIpd Here are just a couple to show what I am talking about.