Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

aviphysics

Dormant
  • Content Count

    571
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Oke so the are worth it but the are really expensive and i can`t find the in the right size. Or are we not on the same page?! I got some used ones off of ebay.
  2. Well the look really nice but how that looks a crossflow fan, and is this better than a normale fan? 1) The print head is lighter, because there isn't a fan on it. 2) The print head is smaller, because there isn't a fan on it. 3) Maybe this is just me, but I found my overhangs with the crossflow fan were substantially better than the results I was getting with the UMO stock fan and cowl. I think it just provides a lot better cooling of the layer, as it is blowing more air over a larger area. BTW, I have also started using a crossflow fan for cooling the stepper motor on my Nema 8 Direc
  3. Well the are a kind of big But they don't have to move with the hot end, so weight isn't such a big deal.
  4. I really like the design, But i only miss a extra fan for cooling for the print Look up "Crossflow Fan". These fans produce a sheet of air, so you can have one on the side of the printer blowing across the entire top of your print.
  5. One thing I didn't expect with the Nema 8 design is that it is way quieter than the UMO stock extruder. I am guessing that is due to the increase in step frequency and decoupling from the wooden frame.
  6. I would be interested. I just got my Nema 8 extruder up and running. You can find the details in your direct drive extruder thread. Right now my gear box is substantially heavier, primarily due to the much larger worm gear. Looks like you also moved to 5 mm rod for the gear box axle.
  7. Alternatively, you could use a reemer to make them the perfect size.
  8. So far :(. @foehnstrum, you are always welcome on the west coast too.
  9. For smaller fans, an RC low pass filter works pretty well. I used a 5 ohm resistor and picked a ceramic capacitor to filter down to 3kHz. It kills some of your top end voltage though and it doesn't work as well with the electronics in my non-PWM crossflow fan.
  10. Very true. TBH, I didn't do any calculations, to some extent it's a shot in the dark. Just went for the long blocks for less play. An axis with two parallel rails should always be fine. With the one rail axis, I'll have to see. And for the other options: I tried to choose the cheapest ... When I looked at rail systems for my CNC many years ago, my impression was that one really needs a pair to avoid any significant wiggle. It just doesn't take much angular freedom at the rail to cause problems, when the tool extends out several cm. Perhaps designing the tool holder to keep the hot end as
  11. Well, 16 € + domestic shipping as I'll be in USA in two weeks ;-) Great. Please PM me the payment details and shipping cost. PayPal is probably the easiest.
  12. What tip for the Merlin are you using there? Also, I have found that the Merlin tip is very sensitive to crossflow fan airflow during the first millimeter of the print. Have you noticed this and if so, what work around have you used. The tip is my own design. A workshop made me a batch with 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 mm (which can be drilled to 1.0 mm). If you like to try they are 4 € / piece. I didn't notice the sensitiveness so far. But it makes some sense as the heated mass of the nozzle is so low. However, I always tried to extend the heating block isolation thing some mm downwards to re
  13. What tip for the Merlin are you using there? Also, I have found that the Merlin tip is very sensitive to crossflow fan airflow during the first millimeter of the print. Have you noticed this and if so, what work around have you used.
  14. I think it used to happen only when the head was moving. Now it happens with the head just sitting there. The problem has been slowly getting progressively worse for a while, until today when it seems to have completely failed. I will have to try your test later. With the thing not working, I decided to take off the hot end and finally give the UBIS a try. The UBIS is working really great. I setup the UBIS to run on the same cables that the stock hotend did, so it seems like they aren't the problem. As a side bonus, it seems like this was also probably the source of my stringing issues. I am
×
×
  • Create New...