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nick-foley

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  1. Rhino -> MeshToNurbs command -> save as whatever format you want. If your mesh was manifold, it will turn into a fairly clean nurbs surface, though it will probably be a large file because each mesh face will be a nurbs plane. If your mesh was manifold and closed, it will be a nurbs solid. Rhino warns if you are using a mesh larger than 20000 faces. I have gone larger, and it works, but for many things, a mesh reduced to around 20000 faces is more than adequate anyway.
  2. Why doesn't a tight-fitting skirt work for your use? (Sounds a bit weird out of context...) You say you don't need the skirt before each print, just the first one (since you want it to print all as one group in the beginning), so it stands to reason that your extrusion is going just fine in between prints (otherwise a skirt before each print would be beneficial), and so if it's going just fine, it shouldn't matter if it prints a tiny skirt before each individual print or not. The skirts after the first one should be completely irrelevant, as long as they are only offset a few mm. The printhe
  3. Like I said previously, you're getting fixated on an arcane technical aspect of a solution instead of clearly stating the actual problem you are having and asking for help on how to solve it. Also not clear if you're printing in Nylon or T-Glase (PET), which have different bed adhesion strategies.
  4. I think most of us come from the country of the Internet's, where if you ask questions like an entitled prick, your going to get responses that treat you like one. Cura is open source and is not software you paid for. Unless you fix the particular issue you're concerned with yourself (probably actually easier than you might think) or hire someone who knows python to fix it for you, your right to make feature requests like they are the ten commandments is pretty limited... Moreover, i think you're generating a lot of ill will towards yourself over an issue that is extremely easy to solve. T
  5. Go in to your machine settings in Cura and decrease your gantry size settings to all 0's. This will fix your problem. You will now be able to push objects close together and have the skirt group around them.
  6. I don't understand where your problem is coming from - how does skirt influence the number of objects you can fit on the bed? Can't you just change your skirt offset, or change your machine preferences for printhead size to allow tight packing of objects with whatever group skirt you want?
  7. Yeah, this is definitely something that should be fixed, along with the lack of retraction during long comb moves. Both cause prints to fail that would otherwise succeed.
  8. Leo, my first guess would be that all of your prints are overextruding. You should try lowering flow settings until you see slight underextrusion, and back off from that just slightly. I get rough surface finishes like that when I'm overextruding slightly. About filament quality - I was doing some tests today of cheapo Amazon filament (Reprapper and Prototype Supply) vs. expensive filament (Colorfabb and Printbl) and I've got to say: the Amazon stuff is probably on par, maybe better. I think that they add ABS to the filament to make it cheaper, which does good things for surface finish. It j
  9. It looks like the heel just barely touched. Though I agree, the ability to make objects float in Cura would be very useful.
  10. Printed a bunch of knife handles that I designed to work with my favorite puukko blade: Also some ornaments I designed: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:157592 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:189376 3D Printed Christmas presents for all!
  11. Here's the bracket I designed to simplify the process of converting to direct drive. It could be used in conjunction with the solution posted above to enable re-use of the original shafts. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:208343
  12. I like the idea of that mod... makes it even easier to upgrade! If you have access to McMaster, getting new rod is quite cheap too, though. You can order this rod for $23, cut it in half, and use it for both axes: http://www.mcmaster.com/#6112k15/=ptmuak Anyway I designed a direct drive motor mounting bracket that doesn't require any modifications to the UM frame, holds both motors with one piece, and is somewhat easier to assemble than other brackets. It should work with this mod, too. I'll post the files shortly.
  13. I guess one other thing I would try is swapping your Z stepper driver PCB with the PCB from a different axis that isn't showing this problem. That would at least allow you to clear the stepper driver of guilt.
  14. Maybe it's skipping steps? You could try upping your stepper current, which is a fairly easy operation of turning the potentiometer on your Z motor driver PCB very slightly counterclockwise.
  15. Finished the upgrade, happy with the print results and the simplicity of the machine. As I worried, however, the machine is definitely louder now. The steppers have a high-pitch whine which they didn't used to have. The motion system itself is very smooth and easy to move, and the motors are mounted to the frame just as rigidly as they were previously, so I suspect the noise is coming from the steppers resonating through the 8mm axes. Has anyone experienced this?
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