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ataraxis

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ataraxis last won the day on April 21

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About ataraxis

  • Birthday 01/01/2015

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  • Field of Work
    Engineering
    R&D / Exploration
  • Country
    DE
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker Original

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  1. One can use the M122 command when TMC DEBUGGING is enabled at the sourcecode - it's quite simple. Unfortunately it looks like StallGuard2 is more like a "EndStop replacement", it does not work on low velocities like at the feeder (https://www.trinamic.com/technology/adv-technologies/stallguard/).
  2. anyone ever tried to display the current stall value (at the display or sth like that) using marlin?
  3. ups, I forgot to mention: UMO with heated bed update ? should be the same as the UMO+ therefore, right? :)
  4. Hey neotko, thank you very much for that! I am owning an UMO, therefore I will have to modify it a bit anyway I guess :)
  5. Oh man, that's really sad... I was really impressed of his creative drive. But to be honest: I do not really understand why they have deleted his designs - they would have been some kind of legacy to his community in my eyes.
  6. folks, I am still looking for the stabilizer - anyone? ? @neotko? @gudo?
  7. ataraxis

    Colorfabb XT, messy infill, shaking bed

    looks like I am not the only one, I found a lot of others who complain about the same issue printing PETG, e.g. here: https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/others-archive--f66/petg-and-renticular-fill-t14618.html changing from "grid" to "lines" improved the infill print quality extremely, what also helped is to print even the outer walls at the same speed as the rest. yeah - workarounds and hacks, but at least it works... EDIT: I finally switched to Simplify3D instead of Cura - there I use the honeycomb infill which does not intersect. Solved all my Colorfabb XT problems at once. Lovely software, expensive but worth it! Damn, I realy enjoy that extremely fast visualisation - my mobile computer isn't the fastest and CURA was always extremely slow.
  8. ataraxis

    Colorfabb XT, messy infill, shaking bed

    Unfortunately I still have some infill problems if you look really closely, the infill does not look like that: but like that (red color just for indication): Any ideas on that?
  9. ataraxis

    Colorfabb XT, messy infill, shaking bed

    After some headache it seems like I might have solved this issue partly For anybody else suffering from the same problems: The first problem is/was that the temperature was most probably too low I had to increase the temperature to 260°C to make the infill solid at 0.2mm @ 50mm/s. That's at the upper end of what Colorfabb recommends and may be also a bit high for the stock teflon couplers (I have installed a full-metal hotend (E3Dv6) on my machine) The second problem was that the hotend (E3Dv6) oozes a bit more in combination with _XT that I am used to. Especially while it travels diagonally to the next layer. Combing does prevent any retraction while traveling over infills, therefore I now... travel at 200mm/s and - since there is no "retract on combing" in Cura 3.3 - I disabled combing to retract even on travels over the infill. Unfortunately that's noisy as hell... I really hope they add that feature in 3.4 as announced (somewhere on Git). I've read that increasing the distance from the nozzle to the bed also helps on the problems I had (take a look at the recommended rigid ink PETG print settings, 4.).
  10. Hi there! I am currently trying to print a bit with Colorfabb XT. Everything is good as long as the infill is solid, if it isn't it looks like the following: What does this cause? Any ideas? The problem *seems to be* that somehow the material does prefer to stick to the nozzle instead of to the other layers... even though the general adhesion is like perfect once cooled down. The messy infill results in uneven layers and in a shacking bed as the hotend moves. I would appreciate any help, thanks!
  11. @gudo Is there any reason why you have deleted your wonderful bed stabilizer from youmagine? ? I would really like to to give it a try :)
  12. ataraxis

    Riemenspannung

    Hallo, seit Jahren bin ich immer mal wieder auf der Suche nach einer vernünftigen Lösung für die Sache mit der Riemenspannung. Bei Youmagine und Co. gibt es ja Riemenspanner-Clips zur Genüge (à la Microwave von Chopmeister). Was mich an diesem Konzept stört: Die Riemenspannung ist nicht stufenlos einstellbar, sprich wenn der Riemen nicht genau so weit ausgeleiert ist wie der Clip sie nachspannt, dann sind sie überfest, das ist nicht so toll für Riemen, Welle und Lager. Außerdem: sie kratzen mitunter am Gehäuse oder stößen sonst irgendwo an wenn sie nicht zum Rest passen (was leider häufig der Fall ist). Es gibt auch die verstellbaren Clips, leider ist dafür beim UMO seitlich kein Platz. Dann gibt es ja seit RepRap-Zeiten schon diese Torsionsfedern die man auf die Riemen klemmt. Tolle Idee, an und für sich, aber eigentlich widerspricht das doch genau dem Konzept von GT2 vs. MXL? Rein konstruktionsbedingt hat man doch mit einer Feder im Riemen immer ein gewisses Umkehrspiel - oder sehe ich das falsch? Klar, wenn die Feder so extrem gespannt ist dass es keine Rolle mehr spielt wäre es "vernachlässigbar" - aber trotzdem Pfusch, oder? Ich kann also nicht wirklich nachvollziehen warum Ultimaker diese Lösung beim UM2 übernommen hat... Ich kenne für den UMO nur wenige Lösungen die mich wirklich überzeugen: Geschlossene Riemenprofile: 1) Mooncactus Banana Tensioner 2) Altbewährte Riemenspanner-Rollen, wie man sie z.B. vom KFZ kennt (hier beim Keilriemen, aber was solls): Offene Riemenprofile: Eigentlich brauchen wir ja sowieso keine geschlossenen Riemen, sie sind teuer, unnötig und viel schwieriger zu installieren. Was haltet ihr also von Lösungen wie dieser von @neotko: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/beyond-umo-um2-slideblocks-by-gudo-neotko-gt2-open-belt Ich bin kurz davor meine Riemen zu kappen und auf offene Riemen zu wechseln. Meine Frage ist... Gibt es fertige Lösungen für die Spannungsrollen (wie auf dem Bild) im Ultimaker-Bereich? Die, die ihr noch einen UM"O" betreibt: Welche Lösungen habt ihr getestet? Was ist euer Favorit, und wieso? Cheers
  13. @Nicolinux (or any other moderator): Can somebody tell me why the pictures are gone on the first post?
  14. There are still some Ultimaker Original Owners around (like me), therefore this may be of interest for somebody. This is just a collection of related information on a single page - I am not the clever head who came up with that In general there are two ways of installing an E3D-v6 on your old UMO. At first, you can use the original heaterblock (including heater and thermocouple) - the heaterblock fits the nozzle and heatbreak of the E3D out of the box. If you do so, you do not have to change/solder any electronics but you have to use your old and maybe worn off things. The other way is to use the E3D-v6 block, heater and sensor - but you will have to modify your Printer to be 24V compatible that way. I will explain the latter way here a bit more in detail: Order E3D-v6 You need the 24V, 3mm Bowden version. It's up to you to choose a sensor-type: Thermistor, Thermocouple or PT100. If you choose the latter, which has the best accuracy and range, you also need the E3D PT100 amplifier board. Unfortunately the wires aren't long enough if you want to lead them the same way as the original cables, stay prepared to make/buy some extension wires for the sensor, heater and fan. Print a Mount You have the choice: * https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount by Rai * https://www.youmagine.com/designs/compact-mount-for-e3d-v6-hot-end-on-ultimaker-original by @amedee e.g. in combination with https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-version-of-neotko-s-symmetric-dual-fans-for-umo * https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3dv6-printhead-mount-for-ultimaker-original by Johnny Bischof * https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-integrated-printhead-v1-9 by Nick Foley I have printed all of the above designs (expect the last one) and I personally prefer Amedee's and Rai's designs since they both support dual fans. At amedee's design it is just a little hard to reach the bowden clamp and it is a bit heavier than Rais. I also like that the original, now somehow loose fanshrout is integrated in Rai's design. Johnny is currently redesigning his one As always: please double check your dimensional accuracy and think of material shrinkage. Make your Ultimaker Shield 24V compatible The original Ultimaker Arduino Shield is specified for a power supply ranging from 16 to 20V. The MOSFETs (which power the heaters) are supplied by the input voltage directly, therefore - to use a 24V heater cartridge - you have to make the shield compatible to 24V. To do so, you have to replace just a single component - the one which is labeled as IC1 on the shield. It's purpose is regulating down the input voltage (16-20V) to 12V, fortunately we can simply replace it by one which allows us to increase the input voltage to 24V - e.g. by TRACO 24120. After the replacement is done, the allowed input voltage is around 15-36V. That means, if you ever have to, than you can still use the old/original 19V power supply. Take a look here at Amedee's post: Power Supply As already mentioned, you will need a new Power Supply if you do not own an Heated Bed Kit (HBK) - which comes with an 24V supply. The one which is supplied by Ultimaker is produced by MeanWell (24V, 92A): https://www.reichelt.de/Netzteile-Festspannung/MW-GS220A24/3/index.html?ACTION=3&GROUPID=4950&ARTICLE=148086. If you want to use the same one, then you will need an adapter from DIN 4-pin (female) to 5.5mmx2,5mm (male). Personally I would suggest to buy one of those 24V 15A supplies by Mean Well if you don't have an HBK. Hook up the Temp Sensor Option 1: Thermistor If you use the original E3D temp sensor (which is a thermistor), then you have to further modify your Ultimaker Shield. Solder a 4.7Ohm resitor into place R23 (if you want to hook it up at TEMP1). Then, use the outer pins to connect the thermistor, like that: In Marlin, this type is TEMP_SENSOR_0 5 Option 2: Thermocouple If you want to use a thermocouple like the Ultimaker Original does, then you simply can use the original amplifier board and sensor. Option 3: PT100 If you want to use a PT100 sensor (like the UM2), then you have to use (and order) the E3D PT100 kit (which includes the sensor, an amplifier board and a fitting heater block). Order some fans for cooling the printed part I bought two NF-A4x10 FLX, each around 13€. Yea, that's expensive, but in my eyes (or ears) they are worth it since they are super silent - that's at least what I thought before they arrived. But even both fans combined are waaaay too powerless (each 8,2 m³/h) - so I'm still searching for a good one, @neotko used the EBM-PAPST 414H which transports around 13,5 m³/h. Another problem is, that your electronics is now 24V, so you will have to convert it to 12V for the fan Update: I ordered another two fans for testing, the SUNON EB40202S2-999 (datasheet) They supply an airflow of around 13m³/h - just as the EBM-PAPST and have the same dimensions of 40 x 40 x 20 mm. But they seem to be much less noisier (21 dB instead of 29 dB) and cost only a third of the EBM-Papst (around 6€ each, instead of 18€). Hook up the hotend fan Connect the E3D hotend cooling fan in parallel to the electronics fan (which is now powered by 24V). You can do that by simply buying an JST-XH2P Y-cable (one side female, other side 2x male). If you cannot find one, solder one yourself - it's easy To be completed...
  15. ataraxis

    E3D @ UMO

    Perfect, everything is done! Thank you very much!
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