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deepshots

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Posts posted by deepshots

  1. I also try to rotate the model in cura so that most of the overhangs are facing left. Most of my things unfortunately are cylindrical with overhangs going around the whole item. In these situations you see it most clearly by rotating the final piece and see the overhang angle vary 5-10 degrees.

     

  2. The dual extrusion readiness is at the same time the biggest problem with the UM2 IMHO. The smaller the diameter of your model the more you see it. Luckily once the (XY) diameter grows... say to 50mm the problems seem to disappear mostly... as the print heads move more over the target area + the layers have more time to cool. The issue manifests with angles also... because of the cooling issues the right side overhang always seem to come in different angle than the left side.

    Personally I would like to "downgrade" my printhead to support only one nozzle so that the fans would be at equal distance from the business end of the hot end.

     

  3. I also like the new 14.07 action and agree that the bed should have a good distance to the head when purging. I often get the first bits in a loop so I just quickly yank it down with my fingers before the purge ends. Not sure why the "loop" happens but I have learned to live with it.

     

  4. Hi ProfePaco

    Do you have UM1 or UM2? Have you done any mods to your printer when printing with Filaflex? In their website they recomend changing the hot end. Have you come up with any of the problems listed there?

    Regards

     

  5. I would take measurements of the suspect filmanet with a caliper first to see if it really is under 3mm.

    It could be that if the filament is near the bowden limits it's "flow" its restricted enough to ruin fine prints. Also have a look if it has been chewed up by the feeder motor (slipping) because the filament does not move smoothly inside the tube.

    I got a cheapy reel once from somewhere which has never printed well because it was not extruded consistently.

     

  6. After reading 3D printing forums and so on I have seem to think that Makerbot is supposedly better at printing ABS. Why would this be? I can't see much difference in the printers technology. Is it just because some of the "bots" have a chamber where the heat stays in?

     

  7. Hi all

    I've been using my UM2 for a while now without any major issues (lots of small snags though) but now I have come across the following issue.

    Here's the pictureprintbedissue.jpg

    http://www.deepshots.co.uk/pictures/printbedissue.jpg

    These gears have been printed straight after each other... The one on the left was printed first and the one on right straight after. Before printing the left hand gear I have levelled the bed and I get quite nice tightly packed first layer. But for the second print the bed is not any more at the same position. It stays maybe extra 0.5-1mm lower resulting to the bad print quality as the print head "drops" the material on to the bed. This seem to especially affect the first 1-5 layers. The quality evens out after this.

    Currently I have to level the bed before every print to keep the quality consistent.

    Any ideas?

    Regards

    Jussi

     

  8. Did some slicing with cura 14.04. (which I guess is the new name of the TEST2 version

    File size of my models has shrank more than half. For example: same .stl sliced with same settings with 14.03 is 12Mb and with 14.04 it is 5Mb.. that is a biiig difference. Where did well over a half of the file disappear?

    J

     

  9. I've now looked more carefully at my prints while printing and I think I figured out why the uneven surface happens. If I have a cylindrical shape about 15-25mm diameter the printer prints it in to a hexagon/decadon/etc... shape instead of a round shape. I can clearly see it in inner part of the walls during the print. The next "polygon shape" is then printed on top of the previous layer in different position so that the corners of the next hexacon/whatever result to the uneven surface...

    Imagine some bolt-nuts in a pile so that the every second of them is in different angle.

    I've looked in to my .stls also but I don't see any issues there... Also this happened only after the 14.03 so I can't think it could be anything else.

    Jussi

     

  10. I've been noticing the OP's issues with the 14.03. It just happens that I print various cylindrical objects with varying diameters and I see that the uneven surface happens in certain diameters... but not all.

    For example I have a print that starts with a smaller diameter and then changes to a larger one.... The surface nobbles are visible only with the larger diameter part of this piece. Also many or my cylinders come out perfectly without the knobbly effect.

    Because of this I haven't moved yet to the TEST2 version... as most of my prints are perfect.

     

  11. Hi

    I'm quite new to UM2 and have noticed these weird blackened fabric looking fluff-bits among the plastic material in my prints.

    First I thought it was a problem with the initial PLA roll that came with the UM2 but now I've got some new stuff from Colorfabb and saw the same weird fluffy bits in the new prints also.

    There is usually like a one black flake of this stuff in an average print.. Doesn't happen every time though... The fluffy bit sticks out from the print and is soft... like cloth or napkin etc... Could it be some sort of material impurity?

    I can trim it away but some of it stays "in" the material and leaves a black stripe. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of it now as I just cut them of from my last nights prints.

    Anyone come across anything similar?

     

  12. Hi

    OK.. this might be a simple question for Cura specialists but...

    I'm wondering how would I be able to see how the Cura basic settings look as "advanced settings".

    Lets say I'm in the medium quality mode and want those as my base to start experimenting with my own settings. When I then change to the advanced mode the print time and length of the material changes.. so looks like when changing to advanced settings the 3 basic settings are not kept as a base and these settings stay as whatever somebody left them last time. Is there a good list somewhere that would show me the 3 basic settings parameters translated to the advanced tables?

    Thanks

    JH

     

  13. I have wrestled with this issue also.. I had no idea of CAD design... Then I stumbled upon Rhino and have not looked back. It's very easy to learn... Took me maybe a month to get a decent command of it. Lots of video tutorials about for small fee (Lynda, infinteskills.. etc..) Also it is half or quarter of a price in comparison with Autodesk's softwares. And you get your 20 first saves for free.

    I design all sort of adapters and gears for underwater photography with it.

    Brilliant software.

    Jussi

     

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