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Everything posted by thomas-roager

  1. Hello Ian my speed is 50mm/s and 220 degrees hotend and 55 degrees heatedbed + fan always on. i got belt tensioner on both axis. i have been looking for some good machine oil but that made it alittle worse (harder to move the print head). and also the layer height is 0.12mm. Im glad you can see im getting something out of my printer because im getting frustrated :b And thanks
  2. Hello Folks i have finally gotten my printer alive with some decent prints. Can you guys help me to figure out what i could adjust to get some smoother prints? My printer is an ultimaker 1 with some modifications, and im printing PLA. Here's a link where ill upload my pictures from my phone: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B44jifdi0ZbBcC1lbnJkdk50b3M&usp=sharing The problems can be from the printers mechanical side, and if it is then it would be great to know what to change to make it even better Both my profile from cura is in the folder and the gcode for the file. i rea
  3. i hope you will upload the files and a BOM because i am interested in this setup
  4. ABS and i have tried but Then i get very visible layers not the pretty ones. And im using 270 degrees c and even at 275 it isnt working. I Can extrude at 220 degrees c
  5. i got a 50% and have to pay for shipping. Shipping is almost more then the filament with percentage :/
  6. well i have used around half the spool and havent had 1 successful print yet. and reprapworld says that it isnt what caused the problem. and now i see why i get a wrong layer if i have this hole in the filament ?
  7. Can this cause anything bad ? its from reprapworld.
  8. the pressure fit bearings. i replaced it and now it doesn't have a clicking noise. i have changed my bearings for the x&y axis (11x8x30) to some peak material and it runs a lot smoother. now i can move it with 1 finger from all sides. but I'm still left out with the problem, the layers are cracking even at 265 degrees. and also my prints got some kind of ringing or maybe the infill is creating the ringing of my parts I'm not sure. and i found out i was under extruding. i changed that. but that still doesn't solve my problem :( I'm afraid i have to change back to PLA even though I'm n
  9. Hello folks. I was wondering What the tolerances is for the bushings at the xy axis? The 11x8x30 bushing. - TRoager Edit: for the UM original.
  10. i think its my bearing for the x axis thats bad .. yes it was a really bad bearing. can make a rattle sound when i shake it damn some work to find that error !!
  11. I have tried to put some silicone gel on the rods, but that didnt help! :( Can the noise come from the short belts? And Can the short belt pulleys touch the inner caps? I Think im gonna take it apart again to do it all over
  12. Please gr5 se this video. https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B44jifdi0ZbBckpISG5RYW4tMTg/edit?usp=docslist_api
  13. i just tried at a higher temp. i have to get to 265-270 before i get good layer bonding. everything below gives bad bonding. but now i have little trouble with skipping steps of the x axis. now I'm trying to mount a better fan onto of my ramps to see if it was overheating.
  14. Im not able to do that, i have to use 1 hand to hold the machine back. And i Can hear a tick from 1 of the corners
  15. gr5: Thanks for your fast answar. Ill try with higher temp tomorrow and ill check my belts. But last i checked , they were quite tight. I could maybe get some friction because of the endcaps. I Got the fine tuning endcaps from thingiverse and i really dont like em. But when i watch the layers be printed it looks like it touches each other, or maybe it doesnt look like that? I tried lowering the size og the filament and Then the print looked wierd ..
  16. Hello folks. I have been having this problem from the beginning of my time with ABS. Heres my setup: Custom Ultimaker with ramps 1.4 Airtripper Bowden 1.75 Blue ABS from RRW Using cura. (Slic3r gives wierd results for me) Hotend: E3D v5 , 245c first layer, 240 rest. Heated bed: Mk2a, 100c first layer, 94 rest. The picture should tell everything. But my observation is that the layers Wont Bond correctly , i Can peel the layers of the print. (I Got No fans blowing) Please help me out, i have building a prusa and Then this UM and havent Got 1 print out of it yet. gr5 edit - added link
  17. Burki: its okay the wood is a little bend, so i think thats the problem.so yes the bearings would be parallel to the axis but the wood parts isn't.
  18. gr5: Well I'm used to the 3D printing world. i just had a Prusa i3, but decided to go the Ultimaker way. And i know that i could hang it with a robe and it should still work. But the problem i just had was that the build plate was not very level to the rest of the printer. i sort of fixed it (still not satisfied). but i turned the build plate 180 degrees, that helped. i think the wood is a little bend. but ill definitely gonna ask sooner or later about leveling the nozzle to bed. Because on the i3 i had i couldn't get any good prints. because of nozzle height and x carriage wasn't line
  19. Hmm, i think ill have a look at the build plate later and maybe try and fix it, I'm kinda of a perfectionist :-P
  20. i haven't even begun printing, I'm assembling all the parts right now, and yes i could just level the print bed. But i was just wondering if the plate wasn't level. rest of the printer is level. and the build plate doesn't look parallel to the axes.
  21. on the middle of the z stage, on the laser cut parts.
  22. Hello Folks. Im About to assemble my Ultimaker 1, and i was wondering. My z axis plate isn't that level, do i really need to compensate that on the leveling screws? Its kinda leaning more to the right. - T
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