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bhowiebkr

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  1. Canadian grade maple syrup is my secret additive in making it stick! I find the warping and lifting at the corners can be controlled with lots of attached surface area to the bed and the goo. You can see cracking all around the base though. I’m going to try heating the build area more to hopefully fix that. When printing the case compartment, I had to use lots of generated support material under it. But the corners still lifted because there wasn’t any solid foundation to stop them. Next time I’ll try adding thick legs into the model in the corners I remove later and hopefully they don’t crack in half mid print.
  2. I've done another iteration of my cellphone wallet case. This is also my first prints with ABS! Rule #1 when printing with ABS should be any printed upgrades you've made on the printhead with PLA will not live long. My fan duct melted, Then I was confused why I had to keep on leveling the bed. My printheat was melting! Now my new printhead is ABS but all cracked and held together with epoxy. My exhaust fan setup is too strong for ABS so I've had to move my printer into the bathroom so I can run it without the fan. Lastly Getting ABS to stick to the bed worried me in the beginning. Printing this part in ABS wasn't easy but the results look great! I'm now looking into injection molding for the next step.
  3. I've been working on a all-in-one case for my cellphone that can replace my wallet and keychain on most outings. The latest version has enough space for 2 house keys and 4 creditcards. There is also enough room between the back of the phone and the credit cards to stuff a business card or bills in. I’m working on a final version 3 of this case that I’ll print in white ABS vs the blue PLA I’m using now. Later I hope to try and crowdfund design and print a bunch at Shapeways for the top selling phones like iPhone/Google Nexus 5/Samsung Galaxy S5. Examples of custom backs could be a message to a loved one or QR coded business card message. I have a Facebook page if any of you are interest in watching my progress.
  4. checkout Lots of interesting ways He's connected things up. I should of gotten into animatronics instead of CG VFX so much cooler to make things like this for real. Although it's probably a dying industry I'm guessing.
  5. That's an awesome print! It looks like they printed on that angle because the final sculpture's front base has so much of an overhang.
  6. I've printed a 3d scanned Motorcycle Glove I've done a long time ago. It tool 7 hours to print at 0.1 layer height. The print speed was something around 30mm/s. I'm still amazed at how strong and light PLA prints are! I have a whole album of photos of this print.
  7. I order 3 things from the seller. The power supply. The heated bed comes with the relay board and a resistor you need to solder. The power supply is a Meanwell S-350-24. The heated bed has the same holes that the stock acrylic bed has. When I installed the heated bed I drilled out the threads of the black plastic mounts and epoxyed them into the wood. Leveling the bed is now done under the Z-stage because I’m no longer able to get to the top for leveling. When mounting a fan on the top, you’ll need to find a way to isolate the fan vibration from the printer. In my case I used several layers of Sorbothane in the corners of the plexiglass top box where it rests ontop of the printer. The fan I used was from home depot This is a 70 CFM but I think something less than half that would serve better.
  8. I ran into another problem the vibration from the exhaust fan was shaking the printing surface too much causing bad quality prints. I have a Sorbothane sheet that I’ve cut some corners to prop up the plexiglass top with. The sorbothane completely isolates all vibration from the fan and also leaves an air gap between it and the printer for less air turbulence in the printing chamber.
  9. Here’s some photos of things I’ve added to the printer. The fumes were becoming a problem for me even with printing PLA but with this setup that’s no longer an issue. Unfortunately the AC fan is far too strong for this, so I’ve been looking into what can be done to adjust it. The AC fans speed is set by the frequency of the AC line and variable frequency drivers are expensive so I’m thinking about having an adjustable vent at the top that can be used to bleed in air. That way I can keep the bottom of the chamber heated better. The cross flow fan approach might work well for this setup
  10. Like a switching power supply? I should change it to that in the future, It's just I have a whole bunch of 12v regulators from other projects doing nothing
  11. I don’t have the heated bed yet but the one I’ve gotten shipped comes with a small board that drives a relay for switching the bed on and off. It’s probably not too loud compared to all the other stuff I have attached like stepper fans. Under the frame I have 12v bus using 4 LM7812 for max 4 amps total. They are powering 4 stepper motor fans and some LED lighting. I need to get another aluminium heatsink to help disperse the heat from the regulators, maybe split the thing in two. I have got all the windows on the frame all enclosed with plexiglass I should have some photos soon.
  12. Same here, chrome isn't working and I couldn't get it working in IE
  13. Haha couldn’t wait. Well I got the missing bearings I needed to complete the ultimaker original build. I’ve started printing some parts with mostly success and one failure. See the album I just put up .
  14. It did come with the arduino. I was going to swap it out with an older arduino mega 1280 but was having too many issues with getting it to read over the serial port consistently. I’ve since put the 2560 back in for now.
  15. I just ordered it! I got the glass heated bed and power supply. I’ll do the 3-point leveling mod on it too.
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