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bez

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  1. Hey bud. I ended up buying a main board from China, I suppose the main benefit of being opensource lol it cost me about £60 wired up all fine and I've had no issues since. Only issue I have now is when my power supply has a tantrum... Ie decides not to power the um2...... but if you un plug it for a couple of days and make sure its not plugged in when not in use I've been able to nurse it along. I'm not a fan of having to pay over £100 for a new psu... Yuk
  2. Cheers for the link, I stumbled across it but lost the link, cheers. Looks good and solid however by the time I bought the board, pt board and screen etc for it to function its pushing close to £200. I think I'm going to have a stab at the super cheap chineese board and see how that pans out as Id like to keep the stock functionality as much as I can as I have my printer in a small workshop and I like the ability to print via sd card as those boards dont look like it would be simple yo put a sd card in once the board is fixed in place under the printer. I think the Ma
  3. After reading several threads in the UM community I have concluded that the 5V regulator is dead. If anyone else is having this problem I've put links to topics I found helpful: My power supply was outputting 24V to the board but I was getting 0V when testing voltages that should have been 5V, It wasn't easy to see the condition of the chip but one I pulled the entire board from the UM2 the U6 chip has a small burn mark on it. And there appears to be a slight singe on one of the power supply pins on the underside of the board (ill put some
  4. I just wanted to confirm something, I presume when there is power to the main board there are a few or at least one LED that illuminates? The reason being is I powered my ultimaker up and after about 30 seconds it lost all power. At first I thought it was the fuse, so I replaced that but I still had no power (power supply is showing its blue led). I have gained access to the board but there are no signs of life when power is attached. Although my power supply shows a blue led can this be trusted as its outputting? Im happy to test, does anyone know which are the correc
  5. Here are a few "build" pics of the car if anyone is interested. First up are the obligatory Finished print pics of a couple of the larger parts I know there not exactly exciting but when you have to leave the print going for over 27hrs its always nice to know its in the safe hands of the Ultimaker The following pics cover the rear end and its setup. I moved from the origional Mod1 spur and pinion design as I found in V3 the motor and rear axle were a tad too close so I wanted to trial a belt design, I opted for a 16mm Belt and pully system this might be a tad over kill so I think I mi
  6. Hi Sander, Yeah I agree with you there. It might be the axle carriers will end up being milled. The rest of the chassis has proven to be pretty decent it might mean adding a reinforced alloy plate under the axle carriers to just help with the extra forces at play when things don't go to plan. Its a shame the UM3 is only 0.4 at the moment but after all the UM2 was 0.4 until Mr.Olsson designed his extremely handy kit. However if the reliability and consistency of the printer has improved the extra time taken to print parts might not actually be soo bad At the moment the design has static s
  7. Hi Sander, Its very much the nature of the beast when trying something new, a few setbacks here and there is very much a part of a project like this. After all if it was easy it would be boring The worst thing was the accident happened at very low speed but as a result of a traction loss and the wheels just span up and the tyres let go :( But on the bright side its better then it happening at high speed and the car smashing into many many small pieces. The biggest issue I have with materials is finding something that can produce a high quality finish and consistent performance over a long
  8. I thought as it has been an age i would update this topic. Looking back 2014 is a loooooong time ago lol The guys at Ultimaker took an interest in the project and the car went off on its travels around the globe and the feedback I good from the project was overwhelming and humbling. I wanted to try and up my game a bit and following my last build I thought I would focus on making the car more 3D printed than before. This would mean a complete re design of the car and the dangerous ground of the unknown. So I set about coming up with basic chassis designs and I finally settled on a chassi
  9. I finally pulled my finger out and managed to take another step in finishing the enclosure ( i still need to print some latches for the door panel lol) here it is so far
  10. I use this stuff: You can get it on ebay easily enough. It chemically welds the surfaces together. I use it to bond the body parts together for my RC speed car and so far none of the joints have let go upto 133mph
  11. Great parts. Try nylon bridge for high temp and parts like battery holders its super strong. Great minds think alike .... im trying to finish off a cnc i have been building for a while now. I cant wait to bring it to life lol
  12. As a few of you know I have a bit of a RC addiction aside from my high speed project I have been working on several others where the UM2 has become a vital part of the build process especially when doing electric conversions to nitro/petrol chassis. I thought it would be nice to try and start a thread with some examples of some on the RCs I have been working on HoBao Hyper ST Brushless conversion I wanted to build a nice tidy nitro to brushless conversion for a Hyper ST Truggy which didnt involve drilling the chassis and bodgeing parts all over the place. I designed and printed the followi
  13. I found PVA gave the best grip to the glass, its just a pain in the backside removing the finished piece. But the problem is if its not stuck down firmly enough it just pulls up at the corners :( I have some kapton tape here to try at some point to see if that works as its meant to be very good for ABS which is also prone to warp when cooling. The trick is to stop it cooling down so quick, Im hoping when I find the time to make a bit of an enclosure for my UM2 it will make a huge difference in how the nylon behaves. Is the Taulman Bridge the same as the 645? Nope its a bit differe
  14. Hi, Please see my main RC project linky > http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7008-high-speed-rc-project/ I've had a look at the open rc project but I prefer to carve my own path and just make parts as and when I need them I havent made any arms yet, but with a 100% infill its super strong I cant say it will be as strong as RPM parts but i dont think there will be a lot in it. I would suggest investing in a 3mm reamer to clean up the pivot pin holes as they never come out as clean as you would like. I look forward to seeing what you can come up with, Enjoy the UM2 they're awe
  15. Cheers for the heads up ........ interesting the cheeky buggers don't mention this when you buy it ...... I'm pretty sure the last few times I printed it I was well under that ........ around 210C. However should I ever want to bump off the wife ....... I will make a mental not of a huge ninjaflex print at high temps lololol
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