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bez

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Everything posted by bez

  1. Cheers for the link, I stumbled across it but lost the link, cheers. Looks good and solid however by the time I bought the board, pt board and screen etc for it to function its pushing close to £200. I think I'm going to have a stab at the super cheap chineese board and see how that pans out as Id like to keep the stock functionality as much as I can as I have my printer in a small workshop and I like the ability to print via sd card as those boards dont look like it would be simple yo put a sd card in once the board is fixed in place under the printer. I think the Maestro would be a option https://duet3d.com/Duet2Maestro ........ but alas no stock 😞 If the cheap option fails it looks like the duet3D is my best option either that or the UM2 goes to 3d printer heaven lol
  2. After reading several threads in the UM community I have concluded that the 5V regulator is dead. If anyone else is having this problem I've put links to topics I found helpful: My power supply was outputting 24V to the board but I was getting 0V when testing voltages that should have been 5V, It wasn't easy to see the condition of the chip but one I pulled the entire board from the UM2 the U6 chip has a small burn mark on it. And there appears to be a slight singe on one of the power supply pins on the underside of the board (ill put some pics up later for reference) So now the board is toast and I'm not willing to spend silly money on a genuine one as its possible I could have a quirky power supply (as mentioned in a topic above) which could potentially burn out another board . So for now a wallet friendly option seems to be to take a jump at a Chinese copy board. I just hope I can upgrade the firmware ok and not burn the new one out. This is the board Ive got my eyes on at the moment https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UM2-3D-Printer-Parts-Full-Set-Mother-Board-with-OLED-Screen-Controller-Panel-Kit/163168267234?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D833718e823684db985540298af8d7111%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D163168267234%26itm%3D163168267234&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ab8491c80-33e4-11e9-9d08-74dbd180d2a7|parentrq%3A03582f2d1690ab19aa98502fffe4694b|iid%3A1 If anyone has any alternative options I'm open to suggestion :)
  3. I just wanted to confirm something, I presume when there is power to the main board there are a few or at least one LED that illuminates? The reason being is I powered my ultimaker up and after about 30 seconds it lost all power. At first I thought it was the fuse, so I replaced that but I still had no power (power supply is showing its blue led). I have gained access to the board but there are no signs of life when power is attached. Although my power supply shows a blue led can this be trusted as its outputting? Im happy to test, does anyone know which are the correct pins to test for voltage on the power supply plug? Then I can rule that out. Failing that does anyone have any good trouble shooting to help narrow down the faulty part on the board? Many thanks in advance :)
  4. Here are a few "build" pics of the car if anyone is interested. First up are the obligatory Finished print pics of a couple of the larger parts I know there not exactly exciting but when you have to leave the print going for over 27hrs its always nice to know its in the safe hands of the Ultimaker The following pics cover the rear end and its setup. I moved from the origional Mod1 spur and pinion design as I found in V3 the motor and rear axle were a tad too close so I wanted to trial a belt design, I opted for a 16mm Belt and pully system this might be a tad over kill so I think I might give a 10mm option a whirl next. Lastly here are a couple of pics showing the steering assembly which is in need to a re design but it did the job and had a very similar turning circle compared to V3.
  5. Hi Sander, Yeah I agree with you there. It might be the axle carriers will end up being milled. The rest of the chassis has proven to be pretty decent it might mean adding a reinforced alloy plate under the axle carriers to just help with the extra forces at play when things don't go to plan. Its a shame the UM3 is only 0.4 at the moment but after all the UM2 was 0.4 until Mr.Olsson designed his extremely handy kit. However if the reliability and consistency of the printer has improved the extra time taken to print parts might not actually be soo bad At the moment the design has static suspension which isn't entirely ideal. So I need to have a play about with some designs, the front end is particularly tricky as the wheels are internal to the body which leaves very limited space for the steering servo and control arms. As it is with these things its always a bit of trial and error. I will dig about my photos I took while I was assembling the car and post them here later as its always nice to see whats under the hood so to speak
  6. Hi Sander, Its very much the nature of the beast when trying something new, a few setbacks here and there is very much a part of a project like this. After all if it was easy it would be boring The worst thing was the accident happened at very low speed but as a result of a traction loss and the wheels just span up and the tyres let go :( But on the bright side its better then it happening at high speed and the car smashing into many many small pieces. The biggest issue I have with materials is finding something that can produce a high quality finish and consistent performance over a long time as most of the parts for the car take well over 28hrs to print even with using one of the awesome 0.8mm nozzles from the Olsson kit. Although Looking at the new Ultimaker 3 it looks like the design and the addition of the duel extrusion might open up interesting possibilities, I'll have to be really really nice to the wife and see what I can get away with in the new year. I have some interesting ideas on increasing the strength of the design while making sure I keep as close to my design brief as possible. The next plan for the axle will involve a hollow 12mm axle which is commonly used on 1:8 Scale RC Pan cars. I will probably go back to using foam tyres also as they don't seem to make as much of a mess when they fail lol
  7. I thought as it has been an age i would update this topic. Looking back 2014 is a loooooong time ago lol The guys at Ultimaker took an interest in the project and the car went off on its travels around the globe and the feedback I good from the project was overwhelming and humbling. I wanted to try and up my game a bit and following my last build I thought I would focus on making the car more 3D printed than before. This would mean a complete re design of the car and the dangerous ground of the unknown. So I set about coming up with basic chassis designs and I finally settled on a chassis reinforced with carbon rods. My main goal was to come up with a design that was super strong and that could be easily built from readily available supplies. The design was split up into 5 sections, the nose cone, 2 body sections, a motor section and the diffuser/tail. All including the main chassis and body in a single design. I tried to keep the design modular so should one section have issues it would be less time intensive and mean that if one part failed (which was likely) it would mean not writing off the whole chassis. Following a few bugs I've had with the previous version: - I upgraded the rear bearings to larger 8x16x5 and used 4 instead of 2 and upgrades the axle from 6mm to 8mm. This was to reduce the stress and heat on the axle breaings. Another benefit of using a 8mm axle was I could use a 17mm Hex fitment which would open up a wider selection of wheels and tyres. - I also went for a 16mm wide T5 pully and belt system to reduce the backlash in the drive line. I planned to use the same electric configuration as before so I could make a comparison to how well the new chassis held up compared to the old version. This was how the design turned out: With this design I left the rear tyres on the outiside of the body to reduce damage to the car should they fail. I opted for GRP Velocity's which are rated for over 160Mph. So off I went for my yearly ROSSA meeting to run my brand new car ............ however this year luck was not on my side. I think one of the tyres I fitted had a slight defect and during testing it let go in a big way ........ It ripped the axle carriers out of the chassis, bent a 8mm Silver steel axle and even managed to snap both wings off (still no idea how it manged that one lol) So its back to the drawing board, I haven't given up hope on the 3D printed chassis but I believe I do need to make a few more revisions and I certainly wont be using those tyres again lol. Fingers crossed it wont be so long till I update this thread again but one thing is for sure the project will be back and all going well stronger than ever
  8. bez

    UM2 Enclosure plan

    I finally pulled my finger out and managed to take another step in finishing the enclosure ( i still need to print some latches for the door panel lol) here it is so far
  9. I use this stuff: You can get it on ebay easily enough. It chemically welds the surfaces together. I use it to bond the body parts together for my RC speed car and so far none of the joints have let go upto 133mph
  10. Great parts. Try nylon bridge for high temp and parts like battery holders its super strong. Great minds think alike .... im trying to finish off a cnc i have been building for a while now. I cant wait to bring it to life lol
  11. As a few of you know I have a bit of a RC addiction aside from my high speed project I have been working on several others where the UM2 has become a vital part of the build process especially when doing electric conversions to nitro/petrol chassis. I thought it would be nice to try and start a thread with some examples of some on the RCs I have been working on HoBao Hyper ST Brushless conversion I wanted to build a nice tidy nitro to brushless conversion for a Hyper ST Truggy which didnt involve drilling the chassis and bodgeing parts all over the place. I designed and printed the following parts Radio box mount: Retro fitted a Traxxas waterproof receiver box as the stock radio box lives where the brushless motor is installed. I designed a tidy bracket to mount to the top of the servo and the radio box screws down onto that. This part was printed in nylon. Lipo Tray: This is always the most annoying part of any conversion as you are normally stuck with random generic options that never fit just as you would like and 9 times out of 10 require you to drill the chassis, which is pretty annoying if you get it slightly wrong. However this wasn't a problem for this project as I was able to design and print a Lipo holder that utilises existing spare mounting points on the nitro chassis while also making sure it was far enough away from the spur gear for obvious safety reasons. I also channelled the underside of the Lipo tray to allow wire routing which in turn made for a tidy install. ESC Plate: Normally when doing conversions you are stuck with sticking the ESC to a extended part of a lipo tray then reinforcing that down with cable ties which can look messy. I desided to draw up a seperate block to mount the ESC to its secured via screws to the plate and the plate is then fixed to the chassis using the 2 left over nitro engine mounting holes. The end result: HPI Baja Brushless conversion The main problem with this project was devising a way to secure the lipos into the chassis. Normally on a stock Baja chassis there are triangles cut all along the side and you can simply just use a couple of velcro strap to secure the lipos, but in this case the car has a carbon chassis which is enclosed ....... great for keeping crud out ...... bad for securing lipos lol I eventually came up with a simple solution to the issue. I printed 2 securing blocks that slid over the rear chassis brace and then made an adjustable slider with velcro strap to hold them into place once fitted. What was even better is this could be done without having to modify the chassis The end result looked like this: I also made another bracket for another traxxas radio box, to mount to the fast eddy steering servo holder: Other random RC parts: I have been helping a good friend with some parts for one of his mini speed builds. We designed and printed some shock towers from Nylon bridge and some other parts for a pancar (pics to follow) I will do my best to keep up to date with this topic with new stuff as I build new projects Update: I forgot to add one of my "insanity" (+100Mph) projects I'm working on currently. Its a Hyper GT chassis which is being modified to run 8cells. I will be using 3d printing to prototype all the parts and for manufacturing plastic components for the build. Its not very exciting atm but it has a lot of potential (i hope my photobucket links work lol):
  12. I found PVA gave the best grip to the glass, its just a pain in the backside removing the finished piece. But the problem is if its not stuck down firmly enough it just pulls up at the corners :( I have some kapton tape here to try at some point to see if that works as its meant to be very good for ABS which is also prone to warp when cooling. The trick is to stop it cooling down so quick, Im hoping when I find the time to make a bit of an enclosure for my UM2 it will make a huge difference in how the nylon behaves. Is the Taulman Bridge the same as the 645? Nope its a bit different. The technical blurb can be found here http://taulman3d.com/bridge-features.html That looks very nice. We've had problems with voids/defects in the nylon if we go over 230C. I'm guessing it's due to water in the nylon but we've tried to dry it in a 50C over so many times but it still doesn't get better. We also store it in an airtight box with desiccant beads with color indicators. Do you have any good recipe for drying it? I just keep mine in a sealed bag with desiccant pouches, I get a couple of water pops while its priming in the nozzle but beyond that I dont get hardly any issues with moisture. I do however only have the nylon fitted to the machine when i need to print, I never leave it attached and exposed to the elements longer than is required. Some people warm the filament in the oven to help reduce any moisture that may have been absorbed over time, but that comes with its own risks as has to be carefully monitored.
  13. Hi, Please see my main RC project linky > http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7008-high-speed-rc-project/ I've had a look at the open rc project but I prefer to carve my own path and just make parts as and when I need them I havent made any arms yet, but with a 100% infill its super strong I cant say it will be as strong as RPM parts but i dont think there will be a lot in it. I would suggest investing in a 3mm reamer to clean up the pivot pin holes as they never come out as clean as you would like. I look forward to seeing what you can come up with, Enjoy the UM2 they're awesome
  14. bez

    UM2 Enclosure plan

    Cheers for the heads up ........ interesting the cheeky buggers don't mention this when you buy it ...... I'm pretty sure the last few times I printed it I was well under that ........ around 210C. However should I ever want to bump off the wife ....... I will make a mental not of a huge ninjaflex print at high temps lololol
  15. I Just wanted to share my experiences with printing with Taulman Bridge Nylon on the UM2. It took me a couple of days with experimenting with different settings but I found something that works pretty well for me. I suppose the first and most important thing to mention is it shrinks a lot when it cools too quickly. However the following settings worked really well for me: Nozzle temp = 245C Bed Temp = 100C Layer Height = 0.15 Base Layer = 0.3 / 20mms Print speed = 30mms Support = Brim Cooling Fan = Off Bed prep = Glue stick or for stubborn prints Hobby Crafts "Tacky Glue" (its a bit more sticky than normal PVA, but its a lot harder to remove from the build plate) Parts are not too difficult to remove from the build plate but wait till its pretty much cooled right down, once the printed parts are cold most of the time the brim will snap away cleanly. The end result: I really like the strength of this material and you can "tune" the level of flex via infill levels. I'm sure I will be using it a fair bit in my current and future RC projects.
  16. bez

    UM2 Enclosure plan

    Yeah I could make a cover or guide, but to be honest im a fan of keeping things simple and effective The plan is to try and get hold of some of the white frosted plastic that is used on the side of my UM2 to try and keep it all looking uniform. I dont know how long my OCD will be able to put up with the MDF lol
  17. bez

    UM2 Enclosure plan

    Sure, (excuse the crappy quality of the picture)
  18. bez

    UM2 Enclosure plan

    Time for a bit of a small update: I had the bottom box cut in MDF as a test run (nice cheap material) and so far so good. I'm currently playing with printing nylon and im having no feed issues what so ever. The real test will be ninjaflex. Anyway here is a piccy of the MDF version of my spool box: Its really nice being able to push the machine further against the wall. Next Step is to cut it in Plastic now I know it works and to also get the "greenhouse" part of the enclosure sorted.
  19. bez

    UM2 Enclosure plan

    Thanks for sharing your experiences and findings guys. I'm still waiting on my mate with a cnc business to find some free time and cut some stuff for me, the curse of mates rates lol
  20. Update: Well good news, the sensors arrived from Poland in under 48hrs, and the high temp solder arrived this morning. A couple of things to note: The sensors arrived were 3.1mm and just a tiny bit too tight for the existing hole, nothing a 3.1mm brill bit and VERY slow drilling couldnt cure. Sensor slides in and out no problem without slopping about. Grub screw locks it snugly into place. I tied a peice of string to the wire to make re running it through the mesh easier, you will have to cut off the heat shrink both ends of the mesh, Personally i didnt bother replacing the mesh by the control board as it would be a nightmare to unplug/screw all the wires. Where as the top is really simple. Lets face it you only see the top one anyway My new PTFE isolator hasn't turned up yet but i smoothed out the old one a bit just to get the sensor tested and I'm pleased to say its all back together and working fine and dandy. I need to calibrate it properly but I will do that after I fit the new isolator.
  21. That's good to know, I have ordered both the items you listed so now all I have to do is wait. I think it should make a very welcome upgrade to the stock part at a fraction of the price of a direct replacement From what I could tell when i dissected the sensor I finally extracted from mine it looks like the material used to pack the stock sensor melted then glued its self to the brass, making it impossible to remove without damaging the wires in the process. While I have the hot end apart I'm tempted to upgrade the cooling fans ......... bloody tinker lust lol
  22. erm yeah ........ So it looks like i will be testing out the uber fine tip on the soldering station later lol I also predict lots and lots of swearing lol Edit: I think i will try getting one of these also as a backup plan
  23. I ordered a few from here http://www.tme.eu/en/details/pt106054/resistive-temperature-sensors/ I found the link in this topic: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5431-thermocouple-failure/%20It%20seems%20to%20have%20worked%20for%203Poro%20so%20fingers%20crossed%20it%20does%20the%20job%20for%20me%20also The part is such a fragile design, the next challenge will be dissecting the armor on the cable to get enough wire to allow me to solder the new sensor to. Oh you will also need some high temp solder, the brand multicore do a 301c solder, I just bought a length of 1m from ebay to cover this particular task as all my other stuff is about 260-280c melting point.
  24. Good news: I finally managed to pry the little bugger out of the brass block Bad news: I still have to wait for parts to arrive to fix it :(
  25. I've ordered a couple of 3mm diameter probes to replace the one that's stuck in the block, I will just solder it to the existing wires from the dead sensor ....... not that I plan to use more than 1, but as sods law tends to go if you don't have a spare you can gaurente you will need it lol
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