zumfab
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Posts posted by zumfab
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To be blunt, I have literally no idea what the Ultimaker 2 extruder looks like and whether any of that is applicable to the Original. If I am to believe the spare parts page it looks different in what appear to be relevant ways.
If anyone could fill me in, that information would be more than welcome
I have been running the E3D stainless steel nozzles and printing with XT-CF20 for about 2 weeks on my UM2. the nozzles are great but im not sure about fitting them to UM0.
I find you have to set the temp a little higher then the brass nozzles and slow down the rate the fans come on otherwise I get under extrusion. but you might get different results on the UM0 setup.
I will keep this in mind, it's always good to have some ideas on where to go when things do not work out.
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We don't. Our units are different. For example, a U.S. pint is a pound but the British pint is 1 and 1/4 pounds. Seems like those crazy Brits just can't get enough of their beer.
That is exactly why a sane business would not want to get involved in that meddle. It can only lead to trouble. I mean, they could not even get some parts of the ISS made on both sides of the pond to match up properly. That does not bode well for the rest of us.
Sorry Burma, sorry Liberia
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I started another thread for the nozzle side of the story
Personally the full metal option seems interesting, as it would hopefully eliminate any consumables and thus reduce cost and downtime.Some XT-CF20 has also been ordered. I am very curious about how that works out. As I am mostly printing with the cheapest reasonable PLA I can find, I am looking forward to printing with a high grade material.
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As I am gearing up to experiment with the new Colorfabb XT-CF20, I am looking into different nozzle options due to the extra wear this type of filament causes. E3D does not only have brass nozzles, but also stainless steel ones. For as far as I understand, these nozzles should pretty much be a drop in replacement, though they are a bit shorted, so either the end-stop, the platform or the software will need to be adjusted to make this work.
I very much like the idea of having different nozzle options, which will be handy for metal filled filament too, but feel there is currently no need to replace the full extruder. Has anyone tried the E3D nozzles with the Ultimaker Original extruder? What were the results?
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Would you need an Ultimaker 2? I mean, an Ultimaker Original+ is considerably cheaper and arguably just as capable. Granted, the Ultimaker 2 looks sleeker, but one could argue the Original is more adaptable.
In the want department I can imagine the urge to buy the Ultimaker 2, but when it comes to what you need, and probably more importantly, what you can actually afford, the Original sounds like it ticks all the boxes.
If things work out you could always decide to add another printer
This is a lot of money for a student, but if you actually start making money with your work it is only a small price to pay for a valuable tool. -
If you want filament that does not give you trouble both Colorfabb and Faberdashery seem to be good options. I have no experience with the latter, but the bits of Colorfabb material that I have are quite easy to work with and give really nice results.
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Oh yeah you bet I saw this, thanks anyway!
Sanjay (E3D) did a short but useful here: https://plus.google.com/115065176676738755459/posts/KP6WsRgLPoL
Did you already try any of it? I am most curious to see how it turns out for people who are not also trying to sell it
The clip Sanjay printed is a useful example, but I would love to see more. -
It would have been terrific to have a CFABS instead or even better a CFXT (mix brands! Protopasta: I think colorfabb sells pellets... why not give it a try?)delamination.
You will be happy to hear Colorfabb is now producing XT-CF20, with exactly what you are asking for. Though Protoplant might not be amused
I would love to see a head to head test of the various available carbon options with regards to strenght, stiffness and electric conductivity.
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Right, it is not a huge problem to adjust the fan duct, especially when it is home made.
Replacing the nozzle takes 2 minutes, so is is very easy to switch. But as you mention it, if it does not have the same height you need to adjust the Z end stop. So if you go to E3D, you should stick to these (But not necessarily the expensive stainless steel ones)
Good point! Switching to a cheaper alternative might not be a bad idea in general, especially since Ultimaker delivery times appear a bit fickle if I am to believe the forums. Though reducing operational costs in general and having a stainless steel option would be the main motivation for me - switching back and forth between the two should make life easier and allow for more flexibility.
Maybe I should just spend some cash and roll the dice. Though I am tempted to upgrade the whole hot-end in one go, but I would probably be best to leave that for a later time. Right now I just need to get printing.
Has anyone done the switch-over yet?
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From the datasheet they should fit, but the part outside the heating block seems to be 3.5 mm shorter, so the hot end will be 3.5mm higher which might be a problem with the fan shroud, in particular with the metal one in the latest UMO version...
I'll give it try one of these days...
3,5 mm is quite a bit, but not something that cannot be solved. I would need to check how this lines up with the new fan duct I want to use.
Would replacing the nozzle be as simple as unscrewing the current one and screwing in the new one, or am I overlooking something else that also would need disassembly? If it is just a simple screw in replacement, experimenting would not be that much of a hassle. You could even switch nozzles with the filament.
Update: I just realized the difference would somehow be made clear to the Ultimaker too, either by adjusting the end stop, platform or through software somehow. That would make switching back and forth slightly more annoying.
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Diamond Age Plastics has a "tactical matt black" PLA. No carbon fiber or conductive properties afaik - but it's easier to print with because it's regular PLA...
Haven't tested it myself, though. I wanted to try Colorfabbs XT CF20, but you should get a stainless steel nozzle if you want to print abrasive (CF) materials. E3D now has stainless steel nozzles (VERY expensive, but at least they should have a very long lifespan). I believe they fit an UMO hotend, but I'm actually not sure about that.
I can't find much about that Diamond Age filament, but the one person commenting on it says it is not too easy to print with and not all that matte. Thanks for the suggestion though, I will see what more I can dig up about that.
The XT-CF20 looks interesting and, as I have thought about it a little more, actually coincides with what I am trying to build. It is expensive, but not outside the realm of reason,. Not unimportantly, it's available. How easy it is to print remains unclear, but I am willing to experiment a bit.
The biggest issue remaining would be wear. I have a spare nozzle, so I would be good for a little while, but a more permanent solution would be appreciated, if only because results will become more unpredictable over time. If anything, I loathe hardware being fickle.
This might be a silly question, but are those E3D nozzles interchangable or would I need to upgrade the whole assembly to another extruder? Would any other parts need upgrading or replacing?
Update: I missed your comment on this before, so you can disregard the first question about the parts being interchangeable
Not sure if it fits but ABS generally prints matte. Could that help?
Currently I am not capable of properly printing ABS, but I am working on it. I think I am looking for more of a matte finish though. Someone printed ABS parts for me on an Ultimaker 2 and those are pretty glossy, although other filements might print differently.
Another option to investigate
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Those ESD-properties are interesting. It just so happens that I have been contemplating a HDD storage case for the past week, but I got stuck on it being a static drive death trap. Having this material would make all the difference.
It is not cheap though and I fear shipping is going to make it prohibitively expensive, but I am certainly going to give this a look.
Edit: it seems shipping and customs would put this beyond what is reasonable. Apparently Colorfabb has a new material that includes carbon too, though they focus on stiffness rather than conductive properties. I will inquire about that.
Do you happen to know the carbon content of the filament you mentioned?
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For a project I am currently undertaking I am looking for a matte black filament. It should preferably be of quality and not too much of a hassle to print. Carbon filled filament comes to mind, but I am a bit put off by the stories about clogs.
If it could be done relatively cheaply that would be great, which is another strike against carbon filled, but the other requirements are a bit more important.
Any recommendations?
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Any ideas on how to prevent this while printing over USB? I try to lower the bed manually, but that is not always effective or convenient.
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0.15mm layers, 30mm/s, 30% infill, 230C, Roberts feeder, filament unrolled in advance, no oil.
Amazing, I thought Ninjaflex was terrible to print with with that configuration of no oil and a bowden setup.
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This is very common when printing through USB. Do you print through USB? Or with an SD card?
The former. I print via USB. I have a lot of small changes to make to my models, using an SD card would be quite a hassle.
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For the most part, my prints end up of pretty decent quality and the bed usually lowers after each print. Exactly how you would want it. Occasionally, it does not lower after the print, leaving the hot extruder in contact with the finished print. As you can imagine, this ruins an otherwise fair finish. Of course it typically happens with long prints, though it happens with shorter prints too.
Some Google Fu does not tell me what happens and how I can fix it. Do you guys have any idea? It is not game breaking, but it is becoming somewhat annoying. If I could prevent it, that would be great.
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I know that BronzeFill isn't very strong, depending on what is going to be on the shelf you might want to go for XT or something stronger maybe?
Strong in what way? Compression strength and tensile strength are two quite different things
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I want to switch to an ARM architecture simply because of the much bigger processing power, bigger memories, and better (faster) integration of features like USB and Ethernet.
Making your 3D printer an USB2.0 host (for USB sticks) is no problem at all for an ARM.
Something like the Raspberry Pi? It seems to me that picking a board with longevity is more important than ultimate cost efficiency or speed, to prevent everyone having to use a different board after a while
I have four of these drivers on the way so we will see how it goes...
Cool, I will be following this closely.
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50 euros/60 dollar for a full set and a spare seems reasonable enough. What would be needed to make this work? I see some soldering work is needed. Anything else? Do you need a firmware upgrade or adapt the electronics?
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Hmmm. Looked up the thermal expansion coefficients of steel and Al and they aren't horrifically different. Al is only double that of steel. Both are the order of 10^-5/K. Even if the frame is heated to 100 degrees above room temperature, the expansion is only 0.01%. Besides, even if the frame doesn't expand, the z axis lead screw still will.
Since most mechanical parts are made of steel I think coherent expansion is a bonus. However, I see most benefits in the strength steel provides when compared to aluminium. The latter is a bit more fragile when it comes to taps and dies, taking knocks and such.
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Bending (near-)perfect 90° angles is pretty much impossible. You'd never get a satisfactory grade of accuracy. Bending thin steel sheets just for increased strenght works great, but it's a rather expensive process (that you can't do well on your own).
And again - thin sheets can't be joined "the Ultimaker way".
It makes me wonder, do you really need the Ultimaker way? Just a simple sheet metal brake and using other squarely cut panels as guides and attachment points might be enough to make the frame square enough to function properly and to fold the sheets enough to make things rigid. You could just bolt flat segment to flat sheet, not at right angles, eliminating the nut trap issues.
Trespa seems an incredibly interesting option, but like you say, cutting it properly is the issue. Even if I were to find an affordable way of cutting the stuff, not having the option to make replacement panels with some ease bugs me. I know I will upgrade the printer in the future and cheaply cutting updated panels is a major pro for me.
Trespa is obviously superior to birch ply, but I doubt whether you will actually notice a huge amount of different in every day use. Tropical areas possibly excepted. Why can't water jets be cheap and readily available?
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The articulated elephant, printed with flexible filament (just wanted to know if an UMO with direct extruder can handle it).
Is that printed with the feeder directly on the hotend?
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I've thought about using steel instead of aluminum (prices are pretty much the same, because aluminum is more difficult to lasercut than steel), but I was concerned about the weight. The Ultimaker frame's stability suffers when you decrease wall thickness (the screws and nuts don't hold that well anymore).
And 3mm steel is still about 170% the weight of 5mm aluminum.
3 mm is already a huge wall thickness for steel
Most machines I know from the workshop have 1, maybe 2 millimeter shells. Only heavy equipment seems to have more, but most strength comes from smart braces, folding or boxing the material, not pure wall thickness. I can imagine that a 3 mm Ultimaker is way too heavy and although I did not do the math, my gut tells me you can get away with less, since the surface area of an Ultimaker is actually quite small compared to other machines.The sandwich idea is interesting, but I am a bit worried how the materials behave together, since they are not properly bonded. Vibrations might become a problem and any gaps will eat away strength. Do you have a plan how you are going to execute those panels?
Using E3D nozzles on an Original extruder
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
That 3,5 mm difference is one thing to look out for indeed, though that is something that should be fixable
I am looking into how to do that exactly, but since I plan on installing after market shrouds I have some play.