z-axis-3d
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Posts posted by z-axis-3d
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I have a UM2 so I guess I have hijacked a topic which was not relevent to me. Apologies but thanks for the response on the other thread
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This is great. I have a question that I have asked elsewhere, but since you have obviously gone quite in-depth with this project you may be able to help me. Do you know what the allowable current draw on the standard LED circuit on the UM2 is?
Cheers,
Greg
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I also would like to know this. My original lights have dimmed and yellowed significantly over the years and I bought a 24V LED strip here:
https://www.wholesaleledlights.co.uk/1m-24v-single-colour-led-strip-lights-60-x-5050smd-14-4w.html
Current draw should be max 600mA for the 1m strip. I hope this will be fine, but interested to know the maximum before assuming.
Any responses would be appreciated.
Kind regards,
Greg
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This is what my dryer looks like BTW. Made with a "Really Useful Box"; a 40W bulb with a dimmer; and low-friction-um2-spoolholder
Needs a cage around the bulb but it seems to work OK
I printed on Glass with a 50% Evo-stik wood glue mix and the part stuck well.
Hope this response is useful to someone even though it's now off-topic.
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The following response by email from Tom at Taulman helped me and I was able to get a pretty decent print with Bridge. I know I said this Post is not about Bridge, but about 618, but as it's been made obsolete this might help.
Hi Greg.....Tom here.... Bridge is as chemical resistant as 618 and easier to print. We suggest users use Bridge as we have made 618
obsolete last week. The dehydrator looks good....nice design, Greg. Bridge can print to 265C if needed and yes, slow ing down helps.
Also, we suggest increasing flow....the multiplier to 1.1 on some prints. for a .4mm nozzle, we suggest 32mm/s print speed and 50% for perimeters.
Let me know and if need be, we will replace the spool as it's important to us to keep you printing.
The real secret is Dry...Dry..Dry..!
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I have been asked for a part to be printed in 618. The customer wanted this material for it's chemical / fuel resistance. I have used Bridge Nylon too and I know that generally this is easier to print but this post is about 618 specifically, so I am looking for any advice from those who may have experience with this material.
Having read up on the material on Taulman's site and elswhere, I am printing on Tufnol Whale Board, and drying the material in the oven before printing. In fact I am making a little drying box to run the material from, but that is a work-in-progress. The part requires some support, and arguably I could have managed without using Tufnol, but I bought a 1mm sheet and stuck it to a piece of glass with broad double sided tape. I also bought 4mm tufnol but have not tried that yet.
So with Tufnol bed adhesion has not been a problem.
I tried to print at the recommended 245° at 30mm/s but I had delamination when trying to remove the part from the tufnol.
I then tried 250° and used a blade to remove the part, but when I was removing the support I had some delamination on the actual part so the bond was obviously not good. In places the Nylon darkens and looks a little burned, especially when the print speed slows down for the smaller layers.
But most mysteriously of all is that when I chose a particular orientation where there were 2 little lugs at the top, they simply refused to print- I tried 3 times using different temperature and speed settings and it's like the material just jammed as soon as it got to the smaller layers, and the little lugs simply never materialised. I have never had an issue quite like this with any other material.
So by the time it gets to this point:
_-_Simplify3_2016-09-26_12-38-41.thumb.png.98fb9946fbe330545bfeaef51e8df840.png)
it will have stopped printing. I can't see anything in the preview that should cause this.
Anybody here have any insights, or just general advice for printing 618 in addition to what I have said above?
Thanks,
Greg
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Having the exact same issue. Screen and control knob freeze during print. The print finishes but the print head doesn't retract after finished job. Did a 2.1 firmware upgrade but no changes. Any kind of help considering this issue would be higly appreciated.
Sorry for the late response, I didn't get email notification. I ended up replacing my mainboard, and I also typically now run a separate fan across the underside of my UM2 because there was definite heat-staining on the MB around the stepper controllers. I can't say now whether that was responsible for fixing it, but I haven't seen the issue recently.
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Hi,
I'm also seeing this. I upgraded to 14.04.5 and I think I saw the issue then too, but I am not sure becasue I downgraded again on the advice of UM GB support due to a stepper motor issue.
I have seen this issue 3 times now in the last few days. I thought is was due to an overheating main board due to the steppers issue
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21084-possible-motherboard-breakdown
Did Upgrading to 14.04.5 fix this for you?
Thanks,
Greg
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The glitch I described above is identical to
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18135-screen-input-freezing-but-still-printing
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Setup a fan to blow under the printer where the mainboard is located, see if that gives different result.
Thanks I will be trying this later. I got a lot of response on 3D Hubs talk as well
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Thanks for the response Ilara
This is the younger of my UM2s. The other has been going for a couple of years. This one has been trouble free for several months. They are really great printers. The fact that I bought a second one after having the first for so long should attest to that.
Cheers,
Greg
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Today my UM2 just froze mid print. Heaters stayed on but it stopped moving.
This could be a hazard. I probably shouldn't use it until I have figured out the issue. So far no one recognise any of this behaviour? Could be a connection, power supply issue, motherboard, where do I start?
Thx, any responses would be greatly appreciated
Greg
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Ok so with a new SD card I still have the same issue. Has anyone else seen an issue like this? Oversized z-increments ?
Thx
Greg
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I have had 3 or 4 print failures recently where the behaviour was that it seemed to be incrementing too far on the Z axis, and making a part that resembled the actualy part but just more like a birds nest. In fact it was quite clear that the printer was extruding at least 10mm above the bed where the part was only about 4mm high.
The same gcode sometimes works and sometimes exhibits the error. I assumed there was an error or corruption, so I remade it a couple of times, both in s3D and Cura, but I have seen the behaviour from both.
I also updated to the latest firmware (I was 1 minor version behind) and I still saw the issue afterwards.
More recently I had a screen glitch as follows:
In this state the print continued and finished successfully, but I was not able to interact with the printer at all via the dial; and the screen stayed like this until completion.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I am printing another batch right now with no issues so far, but I need to prepare for the eventuality that something is failing.
Actually I just had a thought while typing this message. Maybe replace the SD card before I do anything more major.
Thanks,
Greg
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There is still no way to do this, right? Even in the latest Cura. Maybe there is a plugin now that I haven't found. This thread is a little old now, just want to make sure I haven't missed the boat! This thread did answer one of my questions though : "Does S3D have this feature?" because it is possibly the single biggest feature I would pay for.
Is there an official feature request / voting system for Cura?
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I managed to reduce this noise considerably by loosening the pulleys at the rear right of the machine, and then re-tightenging them after making sure that the belts were not riding and that the 6mm cross-rods were true & perpendicular. so I think that any slight mis-alignment sets up forces which resonate and this is probably be exaggerated if the rods need lubrication which is why that solution worked for some people.
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Ulimaker GB support asked me to move the head by hand and confirm that the noise is there when being moved manually as well as being driven by the motors. I confirmed that to be the case.
@eldrick you said that yours was not a lubrication issue, were you able to resolve your issue since then?
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OK so I lubricated a little more liberally last night (try saying that quickly 5 times) and it seemed to make no difference.
I am using wahl brand oil intended for hair/beard clippers which is a clear thin oil, but I have just ordered some Singer sewing machine oil in case there is a difference.
Maybe worth buying new bushing? Is the noise in my video in my previous post the same as others have heard and described?
Thanks,
Greg
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I have an issue that sounds from description the same, but if there was a video on this post I can't see it anymore.
This is how mine sounds:
https://goo.gl/photos/XmYS3Nz3KCPy3dbw9
It has been getting much worse just recently.
I oil the rods fairly regularly and oiled them last night again but it made no difference. I am using a tiny amount of oil applied directly though; I imagine the sintered bushing will spread it around, but then again, they may also be absorbing some and I just need to apply more.
I've read swordriff's thread on lubricating and might revisit that tonight, maybe do a better job of spreading it around.
Will report back later unless anyone has anything to add.
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Glue stick helps. wood glue mixed with water helps. Certain materials help (e.g. plywood, particle board, kapton tape, abs glue for abs, hairspray, hot clean glass). Heat helps. Squishing the bottom layer a little into the bed helps.
The type of wood glue also makes a difference I have found recently. I was using a PVA "no name brand" wood glue for ages and it worked OK. When I ran out and got some EVO-Stick (by Bostik) interior wood adhesive I was struck by the difference it made -With the PVA the part would break loose once the bed cooled, with the Proper wood glue it took some effort to remove even after cooling (but not as bad as buildtak)
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Thanks for the useful hints! I had tried to decrease the temperature as far as I thought reasonable, but Z-Hop was 0 so I'm sure that will help in future.
However in the meantime I tried a repair in netfab and then reloaded the reparied stl and it is no longer tracking across the part on each Z-increment. This has also saved me nearly an hour in print time on a 10.5 hour print. (I'm sure increasing the travel speed would have helped there too.)
Thanks again,
Greg.
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I am getting stringing due to the head travelling across the part.
If I enable combing ON then the layer view shows the head travelling around the entire profile to the same start point for the next layer. This increases travel time when I would really rather the head alternate the direction for each layer -IOW start the next layer on the same side rather than travelling across.
Is that possible in Cura? Could I use a tool to modify the STL to remedy this?
Any advice would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Greg
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After fitting my New Olsson block, the new heater and probe, I could tell the temperature issue was fixed, but I was still under extruding a little. I had replaced my Bowden tube already, but I had not yet installed the new bowden clips which I had ordered from 3DSolex. I noticed that they were moving stlightly, and after I replaced those my printer is like new again.
Now I'm off to the London 3D Printshow.
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I forgot to mention that when I swapped the probes, even though there was a 2 degree difference, the readings followed the probe -so it was Nozzle = 17; bed = 19, then I swapped the probes and it read nozzle = 19; bed = 17.
_-_Simplify3_2016-09-26_12-38-41.png.76bc39115c1aad4706f5827e15e7892b.png)
RGB Led Strips Control
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Thanks, that is useful . I guess that sounds about right then. If I cut 3 sections of 200mm from the LED strip I bought then that should draw 360mA.
Cheers,
Greg