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Posts posted by ccw1984

  1. But doesn't ABS print at about 260C anyway? So I'm not overly fussed, I might buy a stock of spare parts anyways just so I have them....so long as it's printing, I'm happy :D


    I would not recommend printing ABS at 260 C, at least not for long prints anyways. If you want to see what happens check it out. Always check the recommended temperature settings for your filament from the manufacturer, also measure the filament when you get it, and use an average of several measurements for filament diameter in the "Material Settings" menu on the printer. I've heard that ABS can be printed ~245 C and you should be fine.

    For bed leveling you can use something like this.

    You can also keep your eye on these threads regarding upgrades for the heater block.

    Oh, one last thing, this thread has a list of several printable parts (designed mostly by geniuses from this forum) that can improve the UM2.


  2. Hi Aaron

    1. Do you use glue to make parts stick to surface?

    2. These settings you are talking about, you determine them when producing the gcode or afterwards at the machine when before print starts (or even after) ?



    Can you update your profile with the printer you have? My recommendations are for the UM2, since that's what I have.

    1. The easiest method I have found to have my parts stick every time is using some extra strength hairspray. NOTE: DO NOT SPRAY DIRECTLY INTO THE UM, you will wind up getting sticky hairspray into the gears and pulleys and belts (oh my). What I do is spray a good amount onto a paper towel and then wipe it onto the buildplate. It dries instantly leaving a thin sticky layer that works great. You can also pull the glass plate out and directly spray it then, but that's just more of a hassle.

    You can also use the gluestick, most people seem to recommend spreading some on the glass then using a slightly damp paper towel to spread it out into a thin layer. Other methods include the ABS slurry/glue, blue tape, and kapton.

    2. The print speed settings are set in Cura, the temperature settings (when using UltiGCode) are set on the UM2 under the "Material" section. You can also manually adjust the temperature and speed when printing using the "Tune" menu.


  3. Check out the http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9295-switching-between-pla-and-abs-thoughts-on-under-extrusion-clogging-burnt-pla with underextrusion, as it typically seems to be a result of several parts producing more friction/backpressure than they should be, rather than one single issue. Also don't forget that sometimes it's directly due to the filament itself, so it's always worth trying another spool if you have one (and don't forget to measure said filament if possible and put that diameter into the material settings).


  4. Robert, I cannot see clearly the washer, shown on the last part of the movie than inserts from the bottom, on the filament insertion hole. Is it a tefflon piece or what?.


    On this latest revision he has changed it to use the eyelet (aka grommet), from the bottom of the original feeder since the newer ones come with it. You can also pick them up at craft stores or ebay/amazon. The older versions used a piece of bowden tube inserted into a small slot instead (or in my case I used two eyelets).


  5. Erm?

    I'm assuming they use something like this:




    Which all refer to the glass-filled PTFE as "reinforced with glass fibre"

    Glass fibre material

    Further information: Fiberglass/url]

    "Fiberglass reinforced plastics" or FRPs (commonly referred to simply as fiberglass) use textile grade glass fibres. These textile fibres are different from other forms of glass fibres used to deliberately trap air, for insulating applications (see


  6. I had a few thoughts on this, and I think the glass-impregnation is not to increase it's resistance to temperature, but rather to give it more structural strength at those higher temperatures. To decrease the chance of that 'indentation' we see at the base on the failed couplers.


    "Fibre-reinforced plastics are a category of composite plastics that specifically use fibre materials to mechanically enhance the strength and elasticity of plastics."

    But yes, there is room for improvement and I'm eagerly awaiting the fruits of your labors.


  7. So I received a new PTFE coupler and cut the old one in half to see what was going on. The pictures and descriptions are on the following thread:


    I'm wondering if there are any easily attainable and machinable materials that would work as a heat break between the PTFE and brass, I know we've been looking at vespel and the I2K stuff but they're expensive, hard to obtain, and hard to machine. Maybe a sacrificial PTFE washer that rests between the coupler and brass, that can be easily discarded and replaced when it deforms.


  8. So the new PTFE coupler has arrived and in the interest of science I've atomic pulled the old one out and cut it in half to see what was going on.




    So interestingly enough, it looks like I did have the glass-filled PTFE coupler (fbrc8 looked up the SN and it was in the 'newer' category) and it looks like that glass filling might be what the odd "feathering" around the bottom hole is.






    After cutting in half you can see how a plug of PLA has formed where I had to ream out the previous indention. Also how a new indention is already forming in nearly the same spot. This leads me to think that the temperature and pressure at the PTFE/brass connection is high enough to deform the PTFE coupler even at the standard 210C PLA temperature.


    However the temperature in that zone does not get high enough to make PLA reach a pliable state because once that plug had formed even heating the head to 240-250 couldn't get it out, forwards or backwards.




    PTFE cut in half without the filament, had a hard time photographing this one.




    Also had a hard time taking pictures of the PTFE/brass junction, but there is clearly a ring of burnt material where the two meet.

    I'm wondering if it's better to clean this off so there is a nice clean seal between the two parts, or if it's better to leave it there as it may have some slight insulating properties since it's already been exposed to the heat and carbonized. Thoughts?


  9. So when i get my replacement parts i will try to feed the filament from the other side, so that the track marks are running on the inner, concave non-pressure side and see if that helps.

    For a permanent solution, one could easily print a "mirrored" feeder and change the rotation direction of the feeder motor.

    Any thoughts on that?


    Check this out:




  10. Hey Robert,

    I am using your feeder for a long time and it works very well. Lately I noticed that the filament slips off the ball bearing when unloading (yes I am using the firmware loading/unloading). Apparently the ball bearing is not centered on the knurled mantle (tried moving that around). I added a few shims between the ball bearing and the yoke but the filament is still not centered.

    Does this happen to anybody else?

    As you can see I have added a metal inlet at the bottom in order to avoid cutting a piece of the bowden tube...

    The yoke (and the M3 bolt) already scrapes the back of the printer.


    Have you tried using the snap-on filament guide? Also I now usually remove/change materials by heating to the atomic pull temp (ie 90 for PLA), opening up the feeder and just pulling it out by hand. Sometimes I do have to remove the bowden tube from the top of the print head and cut off the 'cone' if it's too large to fit, but it leaves me with a nice clean head for the next print.

    I did the same thing with the metal eyelets!

    I was having the same scraping the back of the printer issue, until I commented on the design on Youmagine and Robert pointed out that the yoke doesn't need a nut, since one of the holes is smaller and designed to be screwed directly into! Also you could use a sex bolt if you find one in the right size.


  11. Anders, the UM PLA (the filament that comes with the printer) is the only filament I have. I just received my printer last week. I'm having a problem finding filament at 2.85mm in Canada (any suggestions are welcome). Buying it from UM will get unnecessarily expensive. I'm reading on other posts about using 3mm (or 1.75mm) which seem to be more standard than 2.85mm.


    Mohissa, most filament listed as "3mm" is actually 2.85 mm +/- 0.05 mm. For some reason it's been decided to round up like that in marketing. What you should do with any filament you get is measure it (get some good calipers) in several places (5 or more), discard the smallest and largest measurements, and average the rest. That will give you an average diameter for your filament that you can put into the "Filament Diameter" setting (on the UM2 under "Material Settings" not Cura).

    The UM2 isn't set up for 1.75mm filament out of the box, I've heard of people using it if they get a smaller bowden tube (one with an ID slightly larger than 1.75mm) and change the material settings however. I'd look around the forum and see if anyone has a thread about using 1.75mm.


  12. I have had another look at your drawing and now can see that the fan shrouds are blowing air on the cold end and the printed part.

    By doing this are you trying to increase the life of the PTFE coupler?

    It would be interesting to measure the temperature difference (if any) at the point the PTFE coupler touches the Hot end Heater Block. (as this is where it deforms). comparing your fan shroud with the original. PTFE has low heat transfer so cooling the top may have little or no effect at the bottom. As with the Stainless isolator.


    EldRick did something similar and has reported that it has had a significant impact on the life of the PTFE coupler.



  13. I know we have the pinned post for the feeder system improvements, which was one of the first things I printed when I got my UM2, but there are a lot of other great upgrades to the UM2 that I didn't find out about until I started having issues and doing a lot of searching. So I figured I'd post what I think are some of the better upgrades for the UM2 that everyone could/should have.

    I'll try to link to the relevant threads if they exist (like the feeder thread).

    There are even more great upgrades (not printable however) like the work being done on the http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/, http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7024-teflon-spacer-replacement, and http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6987-flexible-shaft-the-best-of-both-worlds/.

    Feeder: (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/) (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8784-roberts-feeder-feedback/) (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7916-best-improved-extruder-design/)







    Filament Spool/Path:








    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/spreading-ring-for-reverse-bend-filament-feed-for-ultimaker-2 - (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5454-ultimaker2-reduce-filament-friction-in-the-bowden-tube/)




    Fans: (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8003-fan-base-improvement/) (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9706-lets-talk-about-12-screws/)



    Enclosures/Doors (For printing ABS):















    • Like 1
  14. Well, good news everyone! Fbrc8 is sending me a new PTFE coupler, should be shipping today. I'm also going to be implementing the improvement that EldRick suggested in his thread here:


    Adding a small diverter to increase airflow over the coupler to help keep it cool.

    Also if I can keep the printer going until the new coupler gets here I'll be printing the parts for the Flex3Drive I've gotten, check out the thread here


    I'd also love to get an improvement to the coupler and heater blocks so I'll be much more involved in the following threads:



    I don't recall seeing one, but I think a good stickied/pinned post would be a list of suggested 'Print Me First' improvements that most if not all UM2 owners should consider printing when they get their machines, things like the improved feeder by IRobertI and a lower friction spool holder. Those seem to be the most frequent and recommended suggestions to the 'help me with underextrusion/bad print/clicking' posts. Plus it's just such a cool feeling to say "I've printed an upgrade to my printer with my printer!"

    Edit: I wound up doing this.



  15. Since my PTFE spacer failed recently (documented here) I've been reading through the forums and this thread with fervor and hope. It sounds like the results with Vespel, or some sort of insulating ring, between the PTFE and hot-end are very promising.

    I saw someone suggest a teflon spray (for gun parts) and was wondering if that would work on ceramics, to eliminate the PLA sticking issue.


    So i will start measuring the friction of the new parts and the vespel ring hopefully this week. we also have some parts made in duratron and other materials.

    i will check if i can post my results on the tests here in the forum :) lets see what the tests reveal.


    Any updates on testing and/or results?



    Loose the Harbor Freight Calipers like they were on fire!

    Trust me :)


    Care to explain? I think those are the same ones I just got to measure filament diameter. Recommendations for better ones?



  16. Remove Filament

    Use pronterface to send Gcode

    Connect and save the

    M92 line for safety


    M92 E320


    G1 E10 F100

    If the Motor rotates 1 turn its a 200 if it rotates 1/2 turn its a 400. Values should be back to normal after On/off

    You can check when connecting with pronterface the M92 line should be the same as befor.


    So I started learning the G-Code and if I interpret it correctly that would:

    M92: Set the steps per unit of axis for the extruder (E) to 320 steps/mm

    G1: Move (nowhere) and extrude (E) 10 mm at a feed rate (F) of 100 mm/min

    So the UM2 has 1/16 micro-stepping AFAIK. Extruding 10mm means the motor should attempt to make 3200 'steps' at 1/16 micro-stepping this means 200 physical steps! Cool, need to try that when I get home.


    As far as I know all UM2's have 400 steps/rev motors. It might be that Erik did not use his stock UM2 feeder motor for his Flex3Drive setup. I should ask him about that next time I see him.


    Please do! Or point him to this discussion. Hopefully this weekend I can print and test the design and firmware he has on Youmagine for the Flex3Drive. I wonder if he'll be updating it since Cura 15.01 firmware is out now though.


  17. Printing Time Calculation:


    I noticed that the printing time seems to be calculating oddly now. I loaded up a plate of parts at 50 mm/s and it shows a printing time of 2 hrs 0 min, 1.21 m, 10 gram. If I change the speed to 100 mm/s however the printing time only drops to 1 hr 54 minutes, same m & gram. It seems like doubling the speed should have a bigger impact on overall print time. (I would expect nearly half)

    This is with the default settings immediately after installing 15.01. (20 mm/s bottom speed, 0.0 for all other speeds under Advanced)

    Member @dirkdirk pointed out:

    What is your "minimal Layer time"? This could have a large effect on printing time.

    To which I responded:

    Aha, it was set to the default time of 5 sec, decreasing it to 0 changes the print time down to 1 hr 41 min (at 100 mm/s) so it is coming into play. Also it defaulted to "print one at a time", changing to print all at once decreased it to 1hr 39 min (100 mm/s).

    FYI, The plate of parts is from the UM2 Bearing Filament Guide (626 version).


  18. Note, I rather not have one big topic with all issues. That would be a huge mess for replies and trying follow everything.

    (FYI: I'm the guy fixing the issues)


    Hmm, true. I was thinking more of just a listing of issues with links to their respective threads. I guess a better solution would be to add a new level to the forum hierarchy for the version of Cura and perhaps one for just bug reporting. If this even is a bug and not something I'm overlooking. Regardless I'll change the title to reflect the issue (if possible)


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