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ccw1984

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  1. Those look great, I need to print them myself! Added them to the list! Keep em coming!
  2. ccw1984

    UM2 Bowden tube ?

    I've always heard McMaster-Carr is a good place to get things. Not sure what shipping is like overseas though. They have a huge selection of PFA/PTFE/PVDF/FEP/MFA tubing and I'm sure several other letter combinations. Extreme-Temperature Tubing Made with PTFE and TeflonĀ® PTFE 1/4" OD, 1/8" ID, $3.73 per ft
  3. ccw1984

    Not had a successful print :(

    I would not recommend printing ABS at 260 C, at least not for long prints anyways. If you want to see what happens check it out. Always check the recommended temperature settings for your filament from the manufacturer, also measure the filament when you get it, and use an average of several measurements for filament diameter in the "Material Settings" menu on the printer. I've heard that ABS can be printed ~245 C and you should be fine. For bed leveling you can use something like this. You can also keep your eye on these threads regarding upgrades for the heater block. Oh, one last thing, this thread has a list of several printable parts (designed mostly by geniuses from this forum) that can improve the UM2.
  4. There are several new materials we have found that may work such as Vespel and Tecasint. Check out the following thread: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7024-teflon-spacer-replacement
  5. Can you update your profile with the printer you have? My recommendations are for the UM2, since that's what I have. 1. The easiest method I have found to have my parts stick every time is using some extra strength hairspray. NOTE: DO NOT SPRAY DIRECTLY INTO THE UM, you will wind up getting sticky hairspray into the gears and pulleys and belts (oh my). What I do is spray a good amount onto a paper towel and then wipe it onto the buildplate. It dries instantly leaving a thin sticky layer that works great. You can also pull the glass plate out and directly spray it then, but that's just more of a hassle. You can also use the gluestick, most people seem to recommend spreading some on the glass then using a slightly damp paper towel to spread it out into a thin layer. Other methods include the ABS slurry/glue, blue tape, and kapton. 2. The print speed settings are set in Cura, the temperature settings (when using UltiGCode) are set on the UM2 under the "Material" section. You can also manually adjust the temperature and speed when printing using the "Tune" menu.
  6. Check out the http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9295-switching-between-pla-and-abs-thoughts-on-under-extrusion-clogging-burnt-pla with underextrusion, as it typically seems to be a result of several parts producing more friction/backpressure than they should be, rather than one single issue. Also don't forget that sometimes it's directly due to the filament itself, so it's always worth trying another spool if you have one (and don't forget to measure said filament if possible and put that diameter into the material settings).
  7. On this latest revision he has changed it to use the eyelet (aka grommet), from the bottom of the original feeder since the newer ones come with it. You can also pick them up at craft stores or ebay/amazon. The older versions used a piece of bowden tube inserted into a small slot instead (or in my case I used two eyelets).
  8. ccw1984

    Teflon spacer replacement

    Erm? I'm assuming they use something like this: [urlhttp://catalog.fluoropolymerproducts.com/viewitems/reinforced-ptfe-teflon/glass-filled-compounded-teflon-ptfe-2?&forward=1[/url] http://catalog.wshampshire.com/Asset/psg_teflon_ptfe.pdf http://www.theplasticshop.co.uk/glass-filled-ptfe-sheet-rod.html Which all refer to the glass-filled PTFE as "reinforced with glass fibre" Glass fibre material Further information: Fiberglass/url] "Fiberglass reinforced plastics" or FRPs (commonly referred to simply as fiberglass) use textile grade glass fibres. These textile fibres are different from other forms of glass fibres used to deliberately trap air, for insulating applications (see
  9. ccw1984

    Teflon spacer replacement

    I had a few thoughts on this, and I think the glass-impregnation is not to increase it's resistance to temperature, but rather to give it more structural strength at those higher temperatures. To decrease the chance of that 'indentation' we see at the base on the failed couplers. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fibre-reinforced_plastic "Fibre-reinforced plastics are a category of composite plastics that specifically use fibre materials to mechanically enhance the strength and elasticity of plastics." But yes, there is room for improvement and I'm eagerly awaiting the fruits of your labors.
  10. ccw1984

    Teflon spacer replacement

    So I received a new PTFE coupler and cut the old one in half to see what was going on. The pictures and descriptions are on the following thread: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9295-switching-between-pla-and-abs-thoughts-on-under-extrusion-clogging-burnt-pla/?p=95502 I'm wondering if there are any easily attainable and machinable materials that would work as a heat break between the PTFE and brass, I know we've been looking at vespel and the I2K stuff but they're expensive, hard to obtain, and hard to machine. Maybe a sacrificial PTFE washer that rests between the coupler and brass, that can be easily discarded and replaced when it deforms.
  11. So the new PTFE coupler has arrived and in the interest of science I've atomic pulled the old one out and cut it in half to see what was going on. So interestingly enough, it looks like I did have the glass-filled PTFE coupler (fbrc8 looked up the SN and it was in the 'newer' category) and it looks like that glass filling might be what the odd "feathering" around the bottom hole is. After cutting in half you can see how a plug of PLA has formed where I had to ream out the previous indention. Also how a new indention is already forming in nearly the same spot. This leads me to think that the temperature and pressure at the PTFE/brass connection is high enough to deform the PTFE coupler even at the standard 210C PLA temperature. However the temperature in that zone does not get high enough to make PLA reach a pliable state because once that plug had formed even heating the head to 240-250 couldn't get it out, forwards or backwards. PTFE cut in half without the filament, had a hard time photographing this one. Also had a hard time taking pictures of the PTFE/brass junction, but there is clearly a ring of burnt material where the two meet. I'm wondering if it's better to clean this off so there is a nice clean seal between the two parts, or if it's better to leave it there as it may have some slight insulating properties since it's already been exposed to the heat and carbonized. Thoughts?
  12. Check this out: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5454-ultimaker2-reduce-filament-friction-in-the-bowden-tube/ https://www.youmagine.com/designs/spreading-ring-for-reverse-bend-filament-feed-for-ultimaker-2
  13. Have you tried using the snap-on filament guide? Also I now usually remove/change materials by heating to the atomic pull temp (ie 90 for PLA), opening up the feeder and just pulling it out by hand. Sometimes I do have to remove the bowden tube from the top of the print head and cut off the 'cone' if it's too large to fit, but it leaves me with a nice clean head for the next print. I did the same thing with the metal eyelets! I was having the same scraping the back of the printer issue, until I commented on the design on Youmagine and Robert pointed out that the yoke doesn't need a nut, since one of the holes is smaller and designed to be screwed directly into! Also you could use a sex bolt if you find one in the right size.
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