3DukeEngineering

Hey just curious if anyone has come across a slicing software that generated tree branch style supports instead of regular pillar style supports. From what I have come across the is more suited to resin style printing but I was hoping to give it a crack in conjunction with my ultimakers

I have managed to get the e3d all set up and used tinker gnome's firmware. What a piece of beauty my machine is now. I actually think my print quality is phenomenally better with the e3d and the solid aluminium head!

This is great I cant wait to get home and give it a try!!! If by adjusting the print area, does it also change the heat up and change filament head position?

limit switches are actually ok, they happen to be in the perfect position! I just had to tweak one of them with a slight bend in the switch. Would I be right in assuming that even by defining the build volume in Cura, I would still encounter smashing when the printer is heating up or changing filament etc?

I suppose that would be the maximum width, depth and height setting under machine - machine settings?

Thats what I suspected about the 5v fan issue, its not to much of a big deal as I should be able to purchase a more suitable fan locally. Just seems strange UM went down the path of having a 5v fan there when the other two cooling fans are 12v? all I'm am wanting to do is replace the small 5v fan with a 30mm one. As for your new firmware I can certainly wait! I read about what ultiarjan was doing and thats how I ended up here. I am still dead curious about playing with the Adruino too, I seem to get stuck at the step where I need to copy a file under the sanguine folder which I can't seem to find

there are no stupid questions , only stupid answers Download the .hex file : UM2 Or UM2 EXTENDED Or UM2 GO Plug USB --> PC With Cura : Machine -> Install custom firmware (.hex) Wait and have fun ! Alright guys, I am in the same boat as this guy once was. Firstly I must apologise for hijacking what seems like such a technical thread. My knowledge of Adruino is slim to none but I would like to learn about it! I can install custom firmware through Cura, as mentioned above and I don't understand much more than that. I have played around with a few repos from the github in arduino ide but I only understand about 10% of it all. Done lots of searching all day but can't find a basic enough guide to get me started..... The above hex code has some wicked features however I would like to make a few minor changes. I need to reduce the x and y travel to stop my new modified head crashing into the wall and if possible change the fan voltage for the heatsink fan from 5v to 12v (I understand this might not be possible as its probably a hardware setup and not controlled by 5v due to the firmware?) Any help would be very much appreciated

think his will help you; http://tinyurl.com/o9vkkav Thanks again. For a total beginner should I be looking at http://www.extrudable.me/2013/05/03/building-marlin-from-scratch/ also?

Thanks ultiarjan, I will look into sourcing a new fan then. Just on a side note, has anyone got a link for someone with no experience who wanted to start manipulating the ultimaker 2 firmware? This new head causes a bit of crashing so I need to reduce the x and y travel distance parameters. And on another side note, the e3d pt100 block, with a 24v 25w heater and a new pt100 sensor is a direct replacement and seems to work great! I was heating and cooling the nozzle last night with great success..... -oh the little things in life-

Hey thats a wicked idea! I will have to give this a crack next time i have something like this

Hey guys probably a bit of a noob question but I have installed a new head on my ultimaker 2 and wanted to know how to reduce the travel distance in the x and y directions to stop it from crashing into the front and sides. Is this a setting that can be adjusted in cura, or is it within the printers firmware. Sorry I wasn't to sure what to search for but would appreciate being pointed in the right direction cheers

Curious as to what needs to be done with the back/rear heatsink fan? Just realised the rear ultimaker fan is smaller than the 30mm one (supplied with my e3d) the I would like to use. How would I go about using the new e3d 30mm fan as a replacement for the one thats constantly on (5v 0.58W?),I have spare a 12v 0.1A fan and a 24v 0.08Afan) Looking online it seems the 12v fan I have will be ok to run from the std ultimaker constant fan source but I feel this doesn't put out anywhere near enough air required. Anyone have any recommendations? Is this a firmware tweak or should I be looking for a new 30mm fan, if so what rating should i be aiming for?

Just purchased it through the Aliexpress website, even arrived with an e3d replica, heater, fan ect! just trying to hunt down some files for the fan mounts at the moment, then when I get a chance I will put it all together.

Thanks for clearing that up. e3d should do a Ultimaker 2 kit then! I have also ordered one of these aluminium e3d mounts so that will be interesting to see how that all fits up.

I haven't tried with blue tape, I will have to buy some and give it a crack! Also when I tried this procedure with Kapton tape I had the support density set at about 35%. Perhaps having a much denser support structure will give a better surface to lay the tape down on. Some more testing required when I have some time.

Could someone possible shed some light on what's required to run the v6 on the Ultimaker 2 with regards to the heater please? I have just received my v6 with the PT100 heater block, I opted for the 24v kit which I believe operates at 40w, and I also ordered an additional heater 24v 25w heater cartridge as this was available as a spare part through e3d. Will the 24v 25w heater make this a plug and play solution without any firmware changes?

Curious on this topic for my UM2, I'm ready to purchase my e3d with the pt100b sensor block. My question is which heater option to go with? I presume the 24v option needs to be used, and on their site it looks like there is a 40w or 25w option, can someone confirm that the 25w needs to be used? and if so does that make it plug and play?

You sir, are a genius. Thanks for that I will be sure to have a nosey at the Github too!

I tried this on a print I was running on the weekend with catastrophic failure! While ABS sticks to kapton tape extremely well, Katon tape does not stick to ABS! Result was that the kapton tape lifted off the abs support I stuck it to and I ended up with a totally warped surface. :(

Hey guys, this is probably a basic question but as I am not in the electronics business.. I was wondering if anyone knew what the white 2 pin plug on the end of PT100B sensor is, ie plug type, model number, part number etc? I have tried googling everything I can think of but haven't found a hit. Reason for asking is that I have a bunch of these sensors without any plugs on the ends and I would like to assemble them. Cheers

I have recently started to use the kapton tape on the bed as I was having some difficulties with ABS adhesion, now prints are sticking perfectly, both ABS and PLA! (had to dry the abs in the oven too) I haven't used the pause at height feature before so this will be an interesting experiment for me. Hopefully I will have some free print time over the weekend to test this out. In my head I can see this idea working brilliantly, but I would be surprised if I was the first person to try it!

Hey guys, first time posting here so I hope I have got it right. I had a bit of an idea today and was wondering if perhaps anyone has already tried this and what results they ended up with. I did a quick search but could find anything relevant I often print prototype parts that will have large flat surfaces that need to be printed on top of support material. I am growing sick of the rough poor quality finish these surfaces are left with after the support material is removed. I was wondering if anyone has ever used a pause at Z height feature to lay kapton tape (or something similar) on top of the last support material layer so the next structural surface of the model has a nice flat surface to print onto? I originally purchased my UM2 with the understanding that there would be a dual extruder option available, thinking I could print support material with a high density in a dissolvable material, but that idea seems to have gone out the window so I’m looking for an alternative. Otherwise does anyone have a better Y/Z gap and Z gap dimension for support material? (I currently use 1.0mm X/Y and 0.1 Z) Regards