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About thobe

  • Birthday 01/11/1987

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  1. Thanks for the info! I guess i'll leave the bottle of ethyl acetate on the shelf then. Getting rid of the whitening seems nice, but is not that important to me, since I paint my models anyways. Here is a print I just post processed yesterday. Quite happy with the result and I think i found a nice compromise between time consumption and quality:
  2. Version 1.0


    A recent print of an old project of mine. I use this model for experimenting with different surface finishing techniques because of the complicated forms and details. So if i can achieve a satisfying result on this object the techniques should work on most organic models.
  3. Hey Cloakfiend, first of all, thank you for this thread. Been following it since the first posts. Your method is my absolute go to for finishing my prints. But because of lack of time I couldn't do much experimenting on my own except of trying different filling methods for bigger layer lines and cracks. (Mr. Dissolved Putty is fantastic for this. It will flow into the cracks, when carefully applied with a toothpick or a fine brush. It dries smoothly and can be easily sanded off.) I understand that you don't want to tell all of your secrets. But maybe you can give me an hint if it is worth experimenting with ethyl acetate in combination with acetone. (maybe a mixture?) I have a bottle of it standing around here but didn't have the time to try it yet. I remember you mentioned using it and your latest prints show awesome surface quality. It's a shame I don't live in the UK and couldn't visit your workshop. Keep up the good work!
  4. Had this model of a heart laying around for a couple of month now. But I just received my Ultimaker three weeks ago, so it became my first bigger print. Around 13 x 8 x 16 cm. Sliced it in two halfes and clued them together. Needed a bit of sanding and a little bit of filler. Then I just spray painted it. Did a lot of experimenting trying to get a nice finish. And I'm really happy with the outcome although it has rather complicated shapes.
  5. Seems like you're getting quite impressive results with your method! I tried dipping some models in acetone a few days ago. But I just received my Ultimaker and I only have the UM Silver PLA. You can see something is working, but it wont eat away the lines even when I put it in the acetone for a longer period. Trying to polish the print with an acetone soaked cloth worked a little bit better. A lot of people recomment ethylacetat for PLA, because it can actually melt the material. I happened to have a bottle of it at home and tried dipping the print in it. The results were not that promising. I think you actually have to do a vapor bath. (I don't see me boiling that chemical stuff in the near future. I find dipping a lot saver.) So I ordered some black colorfabb PLA and hope the dipping will have a better result than with the UM Silver. Wasn't it colorfabb you used in your T-Rex Video? Looked promising. What available Filament would you recomment?
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