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cloakfiend last won the day on July 20

cloakfiend had the most liked content!

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About cloakfiend

  • Rank
    Lord of Acetone
  • Birthday 01/01/1969

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  • Field of Work
    R&D / Exploration
  • Country
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2 with 35w heater PLA and acetone

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  1. cloakfiend

    Post your latest print!

    This is my next print....who knows how it will turn out..... original image and my 3D realisation. Ive done a few of these but this was my childhood fave.....I still have the book. Iain McCaig the guy who did the artwork, also worked on Starwars. He is an amazing artist, much respect! still gotta rotate the head a bit but ill try that last due to drawing with symmetry. I dont mind printing this one multiple times. Its so cool.
  2. cloakfiend

    Acetone Finishing on PLA

    In my opinion the initial time you apply the acetone is the most effective. Anything later would just be to even out some post acetone sanding marks if there are any. I wouldn't recommend multiple brush applications, or dips for that matter, as the original chemical reaction has happened, and you are just playing around with the residue left over the model. You could potentially make it worse and risk splitting. Make sure its a nice thick brush on if you are doing it the way or at least a 10-15 seconds just to see the effects first time round. Ill try post a vid soon, but its not very difficult at all. .....and don't expect any shrinkage unless you literally drown the PLA in acetone for ages. Because its not as effective as with ABS light applications might not do much. You have to commit to potentially ruining your model Im afraid. When i did my big Trex skull which was over 57Hrs for the first time, I was a bit concerned which is why I filmed it, but soon realised that there was nothing to be afraid of. I honestly think that is why people don't use this method. Fear.
  3. cloakfiend

    Acetone Finishing on PLA

    ACETONE AND COLORFABB RED TR FILAMENT EXPLAINED AGAIN....HOPEFULLY A BIT BETTER Ok so I have a bit of time spare during my night shift so I thought I'd have another go at explaining how things work and how I go about my post processing as simply and clearly as I can. Ok so first up, the whole PLA and acetone argument and purity of PLA and different filaments. I am not trying to say PLA smooths with acetone, because we all know that it doesn't. Some people seem to have some focus on the purity of PLA and wanting to acquire the purest form of PLA yet have no real idea of what EXACTLY is in the PLA they are using anyway which kind od defeats their argument to begin with. We are not buying narcotics here, so purity is not really a factor, but consistency of filament production is more important and that the manufacturers don't change the formulas half way through a batch as this will affect future post processing efforts. Colorfabb is NOT the only filament that smooths with acetone, many others do, but I am concentrating on Colorfabb because I know the filament well and their formulas are fairly consistent from using that brand for the past 3 to 4 years. The resolution you print at before applying the acetone is the most important factor. I print at 0.06 and find that although every line may not smooth perfectly due to serveral factors, clean up is FAR less painful and monumentally quicker that simply applying filler and sanding multiple times. Longer printing times mean smaller post production times, a lot smaller. Sometimes if I have even one error on a print I will print it again because I don't want to waste my time sanding and filling for hours on end. Sanding.......yes you still have to sand your prints. But with much finer sand paper which makes sanding minimal and not a total pain in the arse. I don't like to apply any filler or topcoats of various materials, as I tend to plate my work and this is a pain to keep perfect in an acid tank as fillers usually absorb liquid and expand ruining any patches you may have fixed. To patch up small holes and seams I simply use superglue and activator and then sand it out. I find it much better than filler although much more difficult to sand down, but the advantage is that you will be able to sand it down perfectly and NOT see any seam whatsoever. Also superglue does not react to acid or other top coats. You can just spray primer and sand down the slight imperfections and it will usually be OK. No needs for stupid amounts of time wasted sanding. I've read people spend up to 3-5 hours just spraying and adding filler to a tiny ball type object.....total waste of time in my opinion Just print higher rez. Sanding soon after dipping or brushing will result in a powderless sand. As the PLA/PHA is still absorbing the acetone, it is much more flexible and it is kind of possible to rub the surface smooth with the sand paper in a way that you are sanding but merely rubbing the lines out with the sandpaper and not causing any actual damage. Its hard to explain but you will see what I mean if you try it. Doing this kind of sanding takes longer to the surface being more resilient to fine sandpaper but still vulnerable to markings from fingernails and sharp objects. Usually when you sand an object then you go through grades of sandpaper, but again this is simply not necessary if you acetone your prints as you are removing the need for the harsh grades and skipping straight to 240 or 320 or even 400. I tend to use the same piece of 240 for ages and this simply means that it turns into a finer grade by being used up. Using fresh sandpaper can often be too harsh on the surface. Warping You are literally breaking down the chemical composition of the plastic and relying on the excess to melt into the gaps between the layers. If you go to hard on small pieces they will warp. This shouldn't come as a surprise. Dont dip or brush on for too long. A few seconds is sometimes enough. More than 45 seconds is pushing it, and a few days or months down the line when the acetone has finally evaporated off or been absorbed, the model may plit crack or warp further. Whitening I believe this is some form of oxidisation, and if the acetone is left in tiny gaps, then the PLH/PHA impurities may collect and obstruct detailed areas (which is what you dont want), so make sure to coat the object evenly and not let the acetone sit for too long. It can look deceptively ruined, but a quick primer run will surprise you how its pretty much only superficial. If you need a clean look and are not spray painting it, go down the Ethyl Acetate route but again, its a different chemical so different rules apply for this, that im not getting into at the moment. I'll finish it there for now. But I hope that helps anyone out there to at least get started. Ill post a new vid applying to another large print and show you the results. And don't use nail varnish remover its too weak. use as close to 100% Acetone that you can get hold of. ....And dont blame me if it doesn't work for you. It just means you are doing something wrong! or for too long! Safety Note And remember have fun experimenting!!!! safely of course, if you find your throat hurting when you go to sleep, its because you were not wearing a protective mask, or the wrong one. Also remember nitrile gloves, but these are only effective for like 10 seconds.......so be quick! So do a test for yourself, Print a small object in 0.06 layer height in colorfabb TR red PLH/PHA and then dip half of it into acetone for like 10 secs and wait for the surface to harden. Then spray it with primer and see the results for yourself. However this isn't magic and if you are useless at post processing or light sanding then don't even bother and simply accept that your prints will have visible layer lines....and mine won't! 😛
  4. cloakfiend

    Acetone Finishing on PLA

    Dont worry about the shrinking too much but keep it in mind. No chemical is perfect unfortunately but acetone sure does the trick for me! I need to buy some more actually!!! Thanks for reminding me! A dip is very effective, but nowadays i brush more than i dip. But i still dip. Usually 10 - 15secs and see how it turns out after if im not happy ill do the next one longer... if it warps ill do it shorter....you get the jist! If you do a dip or brush you can tell how much has been absorbed by the coldness. The colder it is, the more acetone has been absorbed. If you want to test the shrinkage, print something flatish (not necesarily thin as i will warp) and the let it sit in acetone for 30 mins. I had a lid to a box shrink over 2cm width and height. But i deliberately tortured it with acetone. No other of my many dips and brushes on pla/pha has shrunk enough for me to notice! Use tr pla/pha for best results in my opinion. It sets quicker. Im going to post a new tut very soon, i recoded it agers ago but never got round to editing it yet!
  5. cloakfiend

    having a hard time printing whole model

    Dont worry about producing STL files. Make OBJs instead in my opinion, I've not made one STL file since I bought my UM2.
  6. cloakfiend

    Da Clumsy Noob Goes Batty

    just realised there is also a kman, is that an old profile?
  7. cloakfiend

    Da Clumsy Noob Goes Batty

    Yes true! sculpting for fun is far better than for animation, I'll leave that to others, But you forgot to mention the layer height!! I hope my new revised model prints without failure, I may ask a few favours @kmanstudios and send you the cgode as I want to try it with PVA for the first time, but with good settings and you seem to use PVA a lot!!!
  8. cloakfiend

    Acetone Finishing on PLA

    Oh my! I haven't posted on this thread for over 7 months! Unfortunately There is no magic amount of time, this is something you need to figure out as it ALWAYS depends on the material and stuff. I wish I could just say 10 seconds or 25 like I did before, or 45 seconds max like my old limit was. But I'm much more experienced in doing it now, its like cooking, I judge in the day and during the moment. Like a cook does adjust according to the weather or detail of the model as some parts might be too thin for a dip. I might use new acetone for some things and used dipping acetone for others. You really need to practice (safely of course). As for the whiteness thing, my perceived explanation is a bit too convoluted to explain here, but basically i think it is related to time of exposure to oxygen (and stuff) basically, you can use Ethyl acetate and wax if you dont want it, but again I now know the long term effects of acetone as I've used it for over 3 years now. (and i have no hypersensitivities or ill effects from it!) The other chems.... not so nice!!!! Ethyl acetate absolutely stinks and is a nastier version of acetone, and methylene cloride is not so bad. To all new people who don't want to read this entire thread, Acetone smooths PLA/PHA from colourfabb printed at 0.06 layer resolution in a way so that only a light sand is needed to remove imperfections. You will not need filler and sanding for many hours, that is why you are spending more time printing it out at 0.06! so you can do less manual labour!!!! To know how i apply it, just watch the vids and find a method that suits you. Acetone also makes your prints water tight, by changing the chemical makeup and also slightly shrinks compressing the form (not much unless you soak it for ages. it can also warp and split your models revealing any weak points! it will not split a good print if done correctly. The part is ready when it is hard and brittle BTW. But I like to work on it during its transformation phase as sanding is strange and leaves no scratched which makes clean up super easy. Unfortunately I have far too much to say on this topic and i feel im just making things more confusing! Feel free to ask but dont expect everything i say to make sense at first! Strange, my last post was edited by......GUEST?
  9. cloakfiend

    Post your latest print!

    That mondoshawan, looks metallic, duplo colour? or plate? or brassfill or? looks real nice.
  10. cloakfiend

    Da Clumsy Noob Goes Batty

    Thanks for the kind words @kmanstudios, hopefully I'll have a few sexy prints to show ya'll soon; some urban stuff, some geeky stuff, and some arty stuff, and some personal stuff, I can't ever finish one I hope to do so very soon, I tried to print it so many times, I tried to print it back in the day when PVA was new but as it was on a beta UM3 that was not mine anyway I never got to see it finished as it kept failing every 10 minutes... now with an S5 lets hope it comes out ok and I actually get to see it before the world ends in two months odd, lol. The barbarian thing looks super cool and you are most certainly not simply a cartoonist! Not that that would be a bad thing anyways! You got skills man, or kman! I bet your meshes are clean and pretty. Mine are pure raw un-remeshed dynamesh scupts with zero edge loops and all, Your work also makes me think about my games workshop days and Warhammer. the amount of time i spent glueing sand to bases and removing flashes from cast lead figurines! My obsession with detail and surface quality, is that i have an older brother and back in the day when i was like 12 (long time ago....very) he would examine my work and insult me until it was perfect. I could only do so much as a 12 year old, and always admired amazing artists like Renaissance artists, and stuff like Classic revival architecture. Im a sucker for detail but only in the right places. Its only now that I can look at something and say, I could do that. but never really figured out why I couldnt do it before???? strange that huh? the moment you realise the many countless hours/days/years of practice have finally paid off doesn't really register. But the learning never ends, its such a pain.....whatever you want to make, you need to know its form and how it looks like from EVERY angle. I simply dont have enough time in my life to examine EVERYTHING I like. Some things I Iike more than others and Ill spend far more time researching and admiring them and that what makes us all unique. I dont quit regardless of how much time i waste as I only make things I like so I dont see it as time wasted, even if its a gift for someone I barely know. I get pleasure out of seeing people happy with the objects I give them, and even if they don't care much, I'm happy I made what I set out to make, as I always deliver on my promises. Unfortunately for me I make a lot of promises.....I've stopped making them so much now, as I have to wipe the slate clean and start some fresh projects. Sorry for the essay......as usual! and keep up the eternal practice!!! BTW what layer height is the batty print? im guessing 0.1? I want 0.06 how long would that take IYHO?
  11. cloakfiend

    Post your latest print!

    Good work kman! Keep it up! I have some catching up to do.... need to post a few things up to prove my existance lol.
  12. cloakfiend

    Cheeky Vase

    Lets find out! 😜
  13. cloakfiend

    Cheeky Vase

    Dont worry kman if i hear BS ill call it out pronto!
  14. cloakfiend

    Cheeky Vase

    Eitherway it reduces the polycount nicely 🤑.
  15. cloakfiend

    Cheeky Vase

    Not sure about the 10% as its slider based to decimate as muchas you like. 99% if you want its very flexible when you want a target poly count. For printing, a lower polycount is more important than optimized mesh. None of my models are optimized! I dont retopo, Id be doing that all day. As soon as im done sculpting its off to cura. no creating edgeloops and all that...no time! Of course a poor mesh is useless as well, but I dont use low poly models at all for art. A clean mesh is good enough me thinks.

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