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cloakfiend last won the day on November 15

cloakfiend had the most liked content!

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811 Excellent


About cloakfiend

  • Rank
    Lord of Acetone
  • Birthday 01/01/1969

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  • Field of Work
    R&D / Exploration
  • Country
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2 with 35w heater PLA and acetone

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  1. cloakfiend

    Excellent site but I have a photo question

    Regarding photos in general and a being a photo enthusiast, I think the one thing I preferred about the old forum was the photo/pictures area. The one on this forum is weird and useless. It made it easier looking through models before now you have to know a particular thread or where the pictures were that you saw in the first place. sad face.
  2. cloakfiend

    Post your latest print!

    Some bully pups, wanted to try and be cute but kinda looks ok, but then again it looks a bit frog like or... hmm whatever im trying to chubby him up to be cuter and do a better pose rather than the usual standing. I dont know what the backs of these pups look like so its just made up! Getting the head the right size was the hardest part.
  3. cloakfiend

    Acetone Finishing on PLA

    Ahh yes, thats why! the areas are flat and very thin! (these are some classic acetone problematic areas) go extra light here. its doable though! try one side at a time, or just use a tiny brush instead of a monster one like i tend to. I use tiny figure painting brushes for dangerous areas it takes longer and you need to keep on dipping the brush in acetone as it doesn't hold very much, but there is zero danger of overdoing it. but again try and go as quick as you can evenly. Also there is no point doing the bottom a lot as its flat You can just rub that over sand paper. Here is another old acetone job, obviously you can see what went wrong, but I was not being that careful, so it can be done. just a bit of practice and not overdoing it! Not all of them warped, I'd do them now with a much finer brush for control and I reckon they'd be OK!
  4. cloakfiend

    Acetone Finishing on PLA

    BTW If you get dips in your model then examine what was there in the model as acetone never causes these issues on hollow printed models. Well not for me anyways. Also dont let it sit on the model too long in patches as it will cure unevenly sometimes leaving puddles with visible edges!
  5. cloakfiend

    Acetone Finishing on PLA

    Indeed acetone closes gaps and makes your model watertight. But most of the problems with using acetone are experience related. Unless you play with it a lot and experiment you just wont understand the pitfalls. Many things cam ruin your print or effect it. Im still puzzled by the whitening issue which is not in my experience removable or wipeable. The only way I can remove it temporarily is with moisturiser which leads me onto cracking and splitting. As acetone deeply penetrates into your pla/pha it will contract. Maybe by nanometers maybe a lot more. Ive had a flat rectangle shrink diameter by over 4cm! Within an hour or so. This is all you really need to understand and get used to. The whitening is purely superficial even if there is loads, and can be cleaned up somewhat immideiately after the surface is not tacky. It may return it may not but as long as residue has not built up in the area thats all thats important. I havent dunked anything in ages. A brush on usually works pretty well because you are not saturating the pla, Repeated exposure makes judging acetone absorbtion more complicated and the post results more unknown. I dont get any surface issues at all but sometimes if using internal supports it can affect the drying process as in my alien model that kept collapsing in the same place...where the support was. If you print too cool your model will split. Dunking produces smoother and more consistent (surfacewise) results but comes with more risk related to the amount of time you dunk for. I found that each colour of pla needs different dunk times. This skull was the first thing I acetoned back in the day. Still looks ok to me. Cracked a bit but if you saw the video i filmed it in which was my first ever acetone related clip then youll quickly understand why. If its long and thin, put a heavy book on it while its drying out Works for me! Obviously not too heavy to the point it squashes it. The first time it warms from the acetone chill is the most important time for the state of the model.
  6. cloakfiend

    Post your latest print!

    Regarding Sculptris, it was originally a pet project by the talented artist and programmer, who got snatched up by the zbrush team as long as he could continue to develop sculptris as a free app, obviously they let him because It was the origin of what is now known as dynamesh in zbrush. the main difference that sculptris uses tris obviously as its in the name sculp'tris', while zbrush uses polys. very flexible program allowing you to do pretty much whatever you want. you can have as many symmetry points as you like as well, like 10 or whatever which makes drawing designs much faster. you also have a store button which lets you keep a direct clone of your object to revert to whenever you think you have ruined something you can just drawn it back from the clone which is very handy for tricks and other effects.
  7. cloakfiend

    Post your latest print!

    Well regarding warping a quick brush usually means you should be ok compared to a dunk. I did see a few tiny splits on this one so 192 degrees for 0.06 layer height might be pushing it 193 should be fine. I have little to no issues tegarding warping. Don't reapply but remember that long thin things need special attention when acetoning. To prevent them from warping you need enough to coat the surface but not too much to soak in which causes the warping as it evaporates out after. And when it comes to face modelling or any modelling that involves symmetry then as soon as you switch it off it just builds on whatever is there you can turn it on and off as much as you like it just means you draw symmetrically regardless of what you are drawing on.. You cant go back to pure symmetry unless you just split it in half and re mirror it to restore symmetry. You can also move the model and as long as the polygons on either side are symmetrical (which often isnt the case in dynamesh) then you can even draw in symmetry ovrer a posed model in an unsymetrical pose. I tend to switch off symmetry once im happy with the basic face. The best feature is the undo history. You can go back as far as you want if you arent happy with your progress and try something new. I start low and increase mesh count according to the amount of detail i need. This face is a nice and managable 200k polys undecimated. I rarely decimate my models due to the methods i use to make them. Which make them nice to 3d print. I'll make a new thread about how i do things in zbrush if you want? Fresh acetone is best, but used acetone also has its benefits.
  8. cloakfiend

    Post your latest print!

    and polished of course..
  9. cloakfiend

    Post your latest print!

    Heres the dude plated. I didnt even sand this one. It came out great after the acetone! Just acetone and plated.
  10. cloakfiend

    Post your latest print!

    Yeah, Its just not gonna happen with a bar of soap. no matter how gifted you are.
  11. cloakfiend

    Post your latest print!

    Hi, yes it is pressure sensitive and tilt sensitive, and has very little lag in zbrush. Photoshop is another story regarding lag....but i didnt buy it for photoshop! Like i said its not a perfect mqxhine, byt It has all the functions of a regular wacom tablet. Ill do a little video of a sculpt where you actually see my hand drawing next...hmm what to draw.? By the way you dont need a tablet computer to draw stuff like this but a wacom or any other pen input is essential. You are just not gonna be able to do this with a mouse. Well not quickly anyway!!! Tilt is irrelevant to me but pressure sensitivity is needed for variation though.
  12. cloakfiend

    Post your latest print!

    If you covered it in glue and rolled it in sand im sure it would look like coral. It makes me wanna have a go. That would be a real pain to plate though! Plating and cavities are very tricky! Im trying to take a step back from worrying about mistakes and small errors and even big ones. Its great im much more relaxed! And as long as i know better for the next time. Paid work is different of course. I feel I need to do something epic....your spaceships look massive.
  13. cloakfiend

    Post your latest print!

    I like the look of the giro infill! looks perfect for an aquarium or something!! a house for fishes, Id rinse it in acetone if its pla might help? might not though.
  14. cloakfiend

    Post your latest print!

    And...7 hours later printed. The nose wasnt even melted! Thats printing dutch orange at 192, seems to be a sweet spot for me.
  15. cloakfiend

    Post your latest print!

    Just an old cintique companion 2, (now called wacom mobile studio) and zbrush, and some imagination....and a lot of playing around. Thats why i bought the cintique companion 2. Its ideal for zbrush. I can just sit on my sofa watching tv and sculpt away for hours without the feeling that ive been sat infront if a computer (its not a perfect machine by any means!!!!)! It was a real game changer for me though. Its has buttons on it which makes it so special. I could not do the same on an ipad pro or surface pro as they dont have phisical buttons. My hand is permanetly on those buttons for instant control, ctrl alt shift space and 2 more programable buttons are essential. Its good enough for me to mess around on thats for sure. My other hand would be on the buttons on the left if it wasnt holding the camera. I pretty much only use this for zbrush and surfing the web. The good thing about doing things myself in zbrush is that i know my mesh will be perfect for 3d printing with no missed welds or any weird geometry like free downloads!!

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