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cloakfiend

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cloakfiend last won the day on April 26

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About cloakfiend

  • Rank
    Lord of Acetone
  • Birthday 01/01/1969

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    R&D / Exploration
  • Country
    GB
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2 with 35w heater PLA and acetone

Recent Profile Visitors

6,474 profile views
  1. Hi still using cura 3.9 but was playing around with dual colours again but couldn't figure out how to import my objects into cura from max, because they always import facing opposite directions? Any ideas?
  2. taking a break from movies and trying some cuteness. but it seems as either my z screw is dirty or my printer is unable to close a semi sphere smoothly, hence the random line. its 1.2 wall so it should be plenty, its on both models, ill try a few tests in the meantime! miaow, pusheen kitty inspired.
  3. Thanks for the write-up! I'll try the 9V battery first. Ill ask someone to explain to me the basics when i get the stuff, as I know ill just get it wrong, and it will save time at the beginning. Once I've done a few hopefuly I should get the hang of things! Off to ebay/amazon/internet now! one is ok but seeing as ill try for some eyes a lil diagram for two would be nice! 😉 I assume a series circuit or something? not sure how it will affect the resistor requirements? will i need more or is the current good for two if its good for one?
  4. I did notice that because of the hat on the model, the layer lines where much better than normal on the freddie models face due to it being shielded with support material, which indicates a wall around the object might beneficial in surface quality. both models were printed with identical settings one day apart.
  5. Nice, I like it! I ewant to work with leds more... I did a bit back in the day but my friend did all the electronics. I want to do glowing eyes and such on a few of my models. Not sure really where to start, I want to keep it simple and minimal.
  6. Only the hat was sanded and inside the mouth and under the chin. freddies face was not sanded at all, its just too detailed. At 30mm/s on the s5 it printed pretty well. the hat was sanded because i ran out of filament and created layer lines when fiddling around with the spool. traffic red colourfabb is a classic of mine. but i still think tansparent red is best for smoothing. the light brown is ok but not as good. My Doctor and Herbert West hill from Re-animator will be next, I'll film doing that one, seeing as my last video didn't show me applying the second acetone coating, and the lighting was poor!. I would wait until it starts going white after a few minutes, then id brush it and then re-apply, and brush it again. brushing it in its soft state is what creates the shiny look.
  7. Just wanted to say that the majority of the whiteness caused by acetone does come off with a subsequent acetone coating. So apply the acetone then wait a few minutes for it to evaporate off, then when its still in its soft stage get a brush and apply another coating. The acetone cleaning up layer diesnt need to be heavy at all. Jusy tested it on some test sculpts today and it worked even on really old colourfabb filament which is the light brown one.
  8. i tried to wipe off the residue but it didn't seem to work for me. (unhappy face) however I did notice that re-acetoning them about 5 minutes after trying to clean them via rushing and wiping with my fingers that they were a lot less white! my issue is that if i have sanded/scored parts of the model to get it a bit smoother that part goes white much easier than the others. I made a little video, gonna do dr hill next and make another follow up vid!
  9. Thanks, The prints are really old ones but a testament to the test of time with my plating proving that they last a long time. These ones were old UM2 prints for those curious and then copper plated.
  10. Just found a few photos I took a while back on my sd card when I had some left over dry ice to play with. Just for lolz.
  11. Id have to admit if there was a proper tool for a reasnoble amount id buy it, splicing is a hassle especially when im doing it on the fly and i forget till the last minute. Transparent filament welds great but regular pla is not as good. Well colourfabb anyways. Id like the tool to be small enough to do it on the fly ideally.
  12. I have a spool of glow in tge dark from ice and it prints very well. In fact without issues at all. The support is also very good so i cant complain these above are from the brand alcia3dp (the oversize1kg spools) looked ok going down but must have raised after the fabric layer and addition layer. Ill post pics of a comparison to colorfabb which didnt have this issue. Also the spool was not as heavy like for like with the colorfabb, as if its somehow diluted or thinned. Making it lighter..
  13. Dr. Hill from Reanimator. The teeth came out great! Damn red is so hard to photograph! I'm going to try to acetone it and wipe the white residue off, but I just can't seem to as others appear to? what am I doing differently I wonder....?
  14. I've become very accustomed to melting pla together, not sure about abs or the others, but if its just ends and stuff and the print has retractions then straightening it is fairly important. If you disable retractions just leave it curved and off the spool or else it snaps due to the pressure of the tight roll. it only takes a few minutes to stick two together, I do it by eye just holding them together for about a minute and then using needle pliers and 180 grit sandpaper to even it all out. Ill do a vid, but I'm sure everyone has their own funny methods!
  15. Hello, I just bought some super cheap 1kg spools and these are the first ones i came across that dont fit on the s5. Not a real concern though as they are so cheap and quality is not all that and they actually weigh less than a kg of any other filament i have. Odd. Eitherway just using it to experiment with my fabrics. Bottom layer on salt sucks compared to colourfabb, its flat but there are weird wrinkles on the edges. But, at least simply balancing them on the spool worked just fine!
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