Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


cloakfiend last won the day on December 16 2018

cloakfiend had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

840 Excellent


About cloakfiend

  • Rank
    Lord of Acetone
  • Birthday 01/01/1969

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    R&D / Exploration
  • Country
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2 with 35w heater PLA and acetone

Recent Profile Visitors

6,179 profile views
  1. cloakfiend

    3D Print on Fabric test

    Unfortunately some colourfabb colours just arent aticking to the salt as others. Dutch orange is king here. Red and blue not quite as good and UM silver is also very good.
  2. Fair enough ill admit that makes sense. Im just doing my first proper two colour print and when i put in the other AA I came across that issue as i just clicked print and realised i had not primed the nozzle. So in my opinion the procedure should go... 1 remove nozzle....then the printer either heats up the current nozzle to wind back the filament or you just whip out the nozzle and it knows you did this so it doesnt bother winding it back. (Yoy could even have the option to skip the filament removal!) 2 click ok when the new nozzle is in. 3 then either click to prime or skip for manual prime Thats what i would do, i wouldnt automatically prime the nozzle with new filament however as i often change my mind and using the lever is far quicker. You think you want everything automated but it gets boring and frustrating real fast. In my honest opinion i just whip the old nozzle out and slap in a new one. I dont even think it needs a removal procedure! But seeing as there is one then an automatic filament load after the change is a perfectly reasnoble thing to do. I guess if you dont want to then you simply dont load on any filament! Still i would like a print with last used bed leveling option.
  3. Yes sure i understand, but its just two clicks. If you change your nozzle (i.e.) dont bother doing it in the menu, then you just select the material and select move. But fair enough. You want it to automatically feed some material through with a 'purge old material' selection or something in the menu. Makes sense. I want a print using previous auto leveling results as well to kick of jobs quick. But i guess ill make a new thread for that. Lol
  4. Just select the cordon the menu and then move material.. until its cleared? Im not sure what the issue it. when you select move material, it automatically heats up the nozzle to the selected PLA or whatever. if it doesn't the just select change material and do it unless I'm wrong. I am running old firmware mid you, but i doubt they would have changed that?
  5. Hopefully youll see tomorrow!!! Its a variant on my fabric printing. Fingers crossed!!
  6. Nice ball!!! And nice peactical skills! Looks neat and tidy!!! Im also trying something fun out myself, hope it wirks as well as this!
  7. cloakfiend

    Tip: Bed adhesion

    For me ive used prit stick power for the past 4 years with applications every few months. But recently tried the salt method to great success. And i have to agree with sander on this one. Just looking at the first layer, it doesnt look like its squished enough, and looks like your also getting underextrusion. But sometimes skipped lines can just be the initial moments the temps are settling after the initial higher lower routine. Squashed is better than not squashed. Thats about it. Once you get it right youll be fine.
  8. cloakfiend

    3D Print on Fabric test

    Well i wasnt sure if i had applied the salt correctly, as i saw no faint mist or anything just water all over the plate so i just heated it up wiped on a few more gentle strokes and it appears to have worked perfectly! So thanks @geert_2 for that! Below is another test where i printed a few sectios.one way a few the other and a few more alternating. The trouble is that it just ends up looking like an untidy carpet or something? Anyway pics... sorry for the crappy photos my phone cam is dying. The bottom sparkles in the light though!
  9. cloakfiend

    Cura doing something crazy

    are you sure its not bad geometry?
  10. cloakfiend

    3D Print on Fabric test

    The spikey one. Was a bit rough so it looks a bit battered on the edges!
  11. cloakfiend

    3D Print on Fabric test

    i have to say that getting my latest one off the plate resulted in some damage to the fabric, so im gonna have to try the salt method with my next one. the material was not as strong as i thought!
  12. cloakfiend

    3D Print on Fabric test

    Yes i think thas the name! Tulle Its lots of fun and so many posibilities, i will try dual colour next and then weirder shapes. And patterns.
  13. cloakfiend

    3D Print on Fabric test

    Yes its very thin and nothing special so im told, my friend just bought me a bit to experiment with. Its like a net though so you have to have a clean nozzle or else it will get caught up on any dried bit amd ruin the fabric. Its quite strong though which is handy. Im doing a spikey test next! I think its the same material as a wedding veil. Silk mighy also work but is way more expensive.
  14. cloakfiend

    3D Print on Fabric test

    Heres the dirty setup. Layer height 0.2 and just wait untill the first layer is done pop on the fabric and stick it down nice and snug but not stretched. Thrn click resume...fun times. Ill pop some step by step pics next time if you like.
  15. cloakfiend

    3D Print on Fabric test

    My first experiment with this that i saw on youtube somewhere. My friend asked me to give it a go and this is just some cloned beveled triangles arranged with enough room for flex of the thickness of the mosaic. Annoying to remove but not too bad. Easy to print. Worked first time.

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!