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Erkan3D

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Posts posted by Erkan3D

  1. These are little rings with a height of 5 mm and a diameter of 20 mm. Distance from my nozzle tip to the base is about 7.5 mm so it is not possible to hit the printed parts with printhead unless the nozzle moves over already printed objects. I set the gantry height to 99999 but it didn't change anything. I think I should be able to make lots of these rings with a suitable print order simultaneously. Can anybody help me about this?

     

    Thanks in advance!

     

    image.thumb.png.a491281b666595fec05aa2dc41162c65.png

  2. On 1/28/2019 at 11:08 PM, gr5 said:

    So I have seen this exact pattern when printing too fast - like 200mm/sec on my fastest printer.  Slower I suppose on my um2 with the black feeder.  I'm not sure what causes it.  But it goes away when I drop the speed by 50% (which you can do in the tune menu for your printer (looks like it's a um2,um3 or s5)).

     

    Please clarify a few things:

    1) Please show this or a similar layer in layer view in cura.

    2) Did you model a cube and set the top/bottom infill to 0 and use an infill pattern to make this?  Or did you actually model all those thin walls?  You will get *much* better results with the former method.  And it will print much faster (only one pass on walls instead of 2 or more).

     

     

     

     

     

    Attached a view in cura

    It is an UM2 with a 0.15 mm nozzle

    Yes it is a cube and I use infill patterns. Line width is 0.15 mm.

    Speed is 45mm/s

     

    What I want is squares with equal height and connected walls.

     

    Thanks!

     

     

    image.thumb.png.0fd140d38cca874c4c716bcf004c56f3.png

  3. 8 minutes ago, DidierKlein said:

    Hi,

     

    I don't think it was ever possible to choose different layer heights for the extruders, this would cause crashes most probably.

     

    Well I am printing two different objects and I need two different layer heights... 

  4. 13 minutes ago, geert_2 said:

    This is probably not the answer you were looking for, but if I want things like this, for example to prevent a thin tall tower from falling over, then I usually design it in my CAD models.

     

    Yeah but I am using 2 different extruders and scanning objects. It is a bit complicated. I need thicker brim layers.

  5. 3 hours ago, kmanstudios said:

    Change your layer height to something absurdly high. I just did this with some vasemode prints I am experimenting with and it gave a sugared gumdrop look to the print. You still have to calibrate your z so that it has a basis for measurement to start from.

    Tried that and it extruded absurdly high :)

  6. 2 hours ago, gr5 said:

    @Erkan3D there are many ways to do this.

     

    One way is in cura settings to uncheck the feature that forces Z=0 and then click on the part in cura and make sure you have "move" selected in the upper left choices and then change the Z height to a value larger than 0.

    I did that and it didn't work. It needs a support otherwise it doesn't print. 

     

     

  7. 24 minutes ago, geert_2 said:

    So basically you want to print spaghetti, is that correct? I am a bit curious what the purpose is?

     

    Another method to achieve this might be to raise the design in your CAD editor to the required height. And then at a heigth of 0 add a little square, e.g. 10mm x 10mm, out of the way. So that square will sit on the glass, and the real design will be in the air. And switch off supports.

     

    I was thinking about the second option but it would be great to print without adding extra stuff. I tried changing gantry height but didn't work. 

     

    For the purpose... 

    Let's say I am trying to make PLA drops. 

  8. I added M302 as a start code to the extruder 2... But didn't work...

    You only talked about Cura so far, so first things first: you need to install a firmware for 2 extruders... In case of Marlin this also needs (at least) a second temperature sensor. I've not tried it, but the temp sensor can perhaps be "faked" by using a resistor instead (would be cheaper... and is probably safe as long you don't install the second heater).

    In short - a bit more tinkering is necessary to get it to work.

    Solved with a similar way. Thanks. Case closed :)

  9. I think what's happening here is that the firmware is trying to prevent you from pushing cold filament through a nozzle; the firmware does not know you don't have a hotend to go with the extruder motor.

    I think there's a gcode command to lower the minimum nozzle temperature at which the extruder motor will try to extrude. You could put that in your start gcode.

    That should be M302... I will try

    Update:

    Tried and it started printing without heating nozzle and tried to extrude the filament with first extruder. 2nd one didn't work...

  10. I have bought an stepper motor and connected to E2 port of the board. I am using cura with the latest version and added 2nd extruder to a "customized printer" which is UM2. But 2nd motor didn't work even I choose the 2nd extruder for the part? I wont connect a nozzle, I want only the motor work. What can I do?

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