[Camera view movement.]

you're a star.

[Camera view movement.]

Hiya guys,

I was wondering how I can move around the build area in cura 2?

I can rotate the view but when I am zoomed in I can't seem to move the view so that I can see some of the part.

just to clarify. If I was looking down on the build plate I can't move in x or y direction only rotate.

How can I do that?

thanks

becky

[How can you print with a res of 0.05 on this?]

Many thanks for the replies.

I went to 3dgbire and spoke to them about it.

We took two more new in wrap, build plates and they were curved too. These were the ones with the white corner protectors.

Even to the naked eye you could see it. The deviation was around 0.6mm

we then took ones with black corner protectors and this turned out good.

So in short, there is a bad batch of glass plates.

Regards

Rebekah Anderson

[First layer is un even.]

Nah my glass plate is definitely curved.

check this out.

[First layer is un even.]

Hiya,

thank you for the response I have found the the glass plate has a curve in it along the X-Axis

[How can you print with a res of 0.05 on this?]

hiya all

I have been trying to sort out this problem.

I have received a new print plate from the supplier but it has the same problem as my original. it isn't flat.

If you look at the pictures you can see that there is a slight bend but the height difference means that in no way could you do a print at a 0.05mm or even 0.1mm beyond a certain surface area.

Have I missed something or is there a theory behind it that I haven't come accross that allows someone to print on a bed like this.

you can see that it's only along the X-axis and not along the Y-axis.

The last two are the ruler along the Y-axis.

Ive had the printer for a while, and it hasn't been an issue as the prints haven't been that big but now I need to do some bigger prints and I simply can't because the nozzle starts to dig into the bed.

hope there is some light at the end of the tunnel here.

many thanks

Rebekah Anderson

[Simplify3D]

Why don't you set the temp under temperature for that extruder to be 0 at the the start of the layer after that extruder is no longer used?

[Is your glass plate uneven.]

Hiya all,

I was wondering if any one elses build plate is impossible to level properly.

I have tried for 2 hours to get it level but on mine the back left corner is too high.

I have tried to get it lower but by doing so other corners are then too low.

I tried the proper way but when the 3 points for height adjustment are correct with the calibration card, I then travel the nozzle to the back corners and they are way off. back left has the nozzle firmly planted on the build plate the right back being too much gap.

the heat plate is bowed in the middle so it's not pushing into the build plate but away from it.

I used one of the rods of the machine as a level and checked the glass and it's definitely not flat. I checked the rod against the glass by rotating it just in case the rod was bent but that isn't the case.

has any one got any ideas, solutions etc...?

many thanks

Rebekah Anderson

[UMO+ Printing issues]

Hiya,

I have experienced similar.

I have resorted to having a set of nozzles for ABS and a set for PLA.

I found that temp has a major part to play. for PLA i try and keep it as low as possible.

reason i have different sets is that when I change between the two materials the change function goes to the temp of the last material ie: ABS 250 deg. This is where my problem lays as that temp with PLA causes it to powder up and block the nozzle. so I manually change it.

using Simplify3D I retract using the control panel till its all the way out. drop the temp then change the nozzle to the PLA and then insert the PLA material.

hope this helps

kind regards

becky

[First layer is un even.]

here is an image of what I am trying to solve

[First layer is un even.]

Hiya guys and gals,

I've had this problem for a little while now.

The problem is the first layer, it prints in even. In places it's fine, other places it's too close to the bed and other places it's not even sticking to the build plate. I've levelled it numerous times.

I even try to adjust during print.

Now when the layer is complete there is no pattern to suggest that one of the ends where there is an adjusting screw, is too high or low.

I'd describe the pattern as a splash.

I am using the new buildtak system but I've checked the level of it and is flat as the glass plate.

 

I have tried to see if the print head is not running true but I can't say it's not. (MK 1 eye ball isn't suitable)

Any one got any ideas?

Many thanks

Becky

[Simplify3D]

add some retract vertical lift. it drops the table and gives some distance between nozzle and part.

[separate connected surfaces in S3D]

Hiya everyone,

I thought I'd share this handy little tool in Simplify3D

hope it's of some interest and use

 

[Simplify3D]

hiya,

the unretract is me being a plonker. I am used to putting neg values for the extra retract distance on the extruder tab that I did it on the GCode tab. If you just delete the - on the GCode tab

If you are only printing with one nozzle. Then there shouldn't be any refference to T1.

That's why I keep thinking you are dual extruding. all tools should be T0

[Ultimaker 2+ retraction problems?]

Hiya,

when you say blobs, is the it's dripping out of the nozzle and going onto your print, it leaves a blob before moving of the the next part or a blob at the start of the next part.

if it's the latter then in the extra retraction distance enter a negative value.

if it's the first one then I think your temp is still to high or increase the retraction.

the middle one asks for faster retraction or tick the retract during wipe.

hope this helps

Becky

[Simplify3D]

Hiya,

just thought to add.

I think I can see why you would do the 4 processes. I'm guessing you want to print the bases individually followed by the tops individually.

If you have the top part as a separate part and have them place as a complete pawn you can use the dual extruder wizard.

[Simplify3D]

Hiya,

I've looked at both. of the files.

I think i understand.

I am struggling to find the Layer 107 you showed in the picture above.

however, what I can see is that you are attempting a dual extrusion print.

you joined two process groups together but S3D isn't seeing it as one piece but two seperate processes.

The GCode you sent me didn't show T1 heating up either. Not sure why but with ungrouping all the processes showed the temperature refference. I added a line in the tool change script for oben and got this

G1 X115.499 Y116.359 F1529

G92 E0

G1 E-4.5000 F1800

G1 X114.699 Y116.359 F3000

G1 Z5.650 F3600

; layer 107, Z = 5.55

M104 S215 T1

;gerdo

G91

G1 Z10. F3000.

G1 E-2 F1500

G1 X50. Y50. F6000.

G90

M0

T1

; tool H0.150 W0.400

; inner perimeter

G1 X115.000 Y109.350 F6000

G1 Z5.550 F3600

G92 E0

G1 X114.510 Y109.341 E0.0046 F1720

G1 X113.515 Y109.268 E0.0140

G1 X112.534 Y109.124 E0.0233

you can see that there is now a 2mm extrusion before printing.

I also noticed that under temperature primary was still T0 in Oben process but you were printing with T1.

in the script tab I added the extrusion line

G91

G1 Z10. F3000.

G1 E-2 F1500

G1 X50. Y50. F6000.

G90

M0

I think this it's where you need to be. I've not added a pause or anything.

hope this helps. I will have another look.

I have to be honest and say that I think you are using more processes than you need to but I am not sure what your printing strategy is so I may be wrong.

kind regards

Becky

[Simplify3D]

Better yet, the FFF file.

[Simplify3D]

Ok.

Why is there a T1 reference in the GCode.

I checked most of mine I don't have a T1 reference.

I am sure if you're using one extruded it should only contain T0 or T1.

If I'm right, might be worth checking if somewhere you've used the other extruded by mistake.

If I'm wrong could you send the GCode file :-)

Becky

[Simplify3D]

Does this code belong to a dual extrusion print?

[Simplify3D]

Hiya,

I don't think it's missing.

with having two parts you will find that it will print two layers at a time per part.

as you have "Only retract when crossing open areas" then I would say go to the next layer and see if the phenomenon appears on the other part.

hope this is the case and that I have answered your question.

Becky

[I need people to check]

If you find out which version supports 110C, let us know please.  You can see the version number on the printer's display - it's in the advanced menu somewhere.

 

I just used Cura 15.4.5 to load the default firmware and that was it. Cura software comes with the firmware in a folder on your PC, It doesn't connect online for the latest version like some other slicers.

Regards

Becky

[I need people to check]

Hiya,

I had an answer from UM,

they have limited the bed temp to 100 degrees intentionally.

if you need to go higher then revert back to the previous cura version.

kiind regards

Becky

[I need people to check]

Hiya,

Thank you.

That's what I said to the support guys that most print with PLA.

[I need people to check]

Hiya every one,

I need to ask the community a favour.

Those with UM2+ and that have upgraded the firmware using latest cura,

Can you check the material profile for ABS and let me know the bed temp?

Can you also check the max temperature you can manually set the bed to in the advanced maintanance menu?

Reason I'm asking is that mine is Max'd out at 100 degrees. Nothing I do allows me to set it to 110 for my prints.

My material profile states 90

I've printed with ABS for 3 years and never printed below 110 as the prints start to peel of the bed.

The support team are looking into it but I am unique in this problem.

Many thanks in advance

Becky