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Catlord last won the day on November 26 2019

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  1. There is nothing that can stop you :) You have to change the hotend, the extruder, the bowden tube. all your printing chain in fact
  2. Did you try to contact colorfabb to have this aspect ratio size ?
  3. Hi, as already stated, the XTCF20 needs a T° of more than 250°C to be printed. Direct bowden tube without a metal heatbreak CAN NOT PRINT AT 250°C ! Bowden tubes start melting around 240°C. so yes, you can't print XTCF20 with a stock CR10 properly.
  4. Ok, here's what I understand of your demand : filament are shrinking after being printed so if you print a 20mm cube, it will be 19.XX after being printed. Is that the meaning of your demand ? if it's the case, here's are a few tips : first: check this page : https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/properties-table/ you will find the coeficient of thermal expansion of several kind of filament. Second : download the calibration cross on thingiverse : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2484766 there is an e
  5. I don't understand what you mean : are you speaking about the size of the carbon micro fibers inside the filament ? Academic in wich field ? I work in a research facility. (I have acess to an electroic microscope)
  6. Someone made a review on their website : So raising printing T° to 250°C and bed at 95°C
  7. By microswiss i mean this one : https://store.micro-swiss.com/collections/creality-cr-10/products/all-metal-hotend-kit-for-cr-10 buy it from manufacturer to avoid clones. 0.5 nozzle is good. don't go lower than 0.4mm CURA slicer is producing Gcode directly. you can modifiy it if you want. it REALLY easy. - take the stl file of the thing you want to print - open CURA, import the stl file - choose the parameter you want (speed, T°, bed T°, infil,....) - clic slice - save the gcodefile produceed. that's it.
  8. Your are cumulating lots of oproblems. - STOP printing at these T° with your stock printer ! As you have already done it, your bowden tube must be replaced. remove if and you will see that the end part that touch the nozzle is in bad shape. cut this part (perpendicularly !) I don't have a Cr-10 but an ultimaker original and an ender that is pretty the same as the CR10. If you change the hotend, you will need : - to make adjustement in the firmware (to reach 250/260°C) - to run a PID tuning (use pronterface) Why do you wri
  9. Ok lets begin then :) Stock mean you didn't make any upgrade on your printer. you didn't change the bowden tube by a quality one (like capricorn), you didn't change the hot end. XT-CF20 needs to be printed with a T° between 250 and 265/270°C depending of your hotend. This IS NOT COMPATIBLE with a CR-10 stock. have a look at the following video . /!\ BEWARE ! THIS IS NOT A FIX TO YOUR PROBLEM /!\ It will explain you a few tips about your hotend. For my part, I didn't made this hotfix: I take care of my hotend and check
  10. Hi, Is your CR-10 stock or did you make some upgrade on it ? If it's stock, don't waste your time : XT-CF20 needs to be printed around 250 /260 °C and your bowden tube will start melting causing clog and troubles. I use an E3DV6 hotend on an ultimaker original and it works pretty well (I'm chaning the extruder, the original one is not adapted)
  11. Thank you Paul, I have had already gone into your videos 😉 I found another tip : if I try to print several different pieces, it finish in mess. one piece at a time seems to be the way to go (for me) I ran into another problem : on the small printed part, it seems that there is a fusion . ahave a look at the top part of this benchy : Print T° 255 °C print head E3DV6 speed 50mm/s no combing no retractation no fans layer heigh 0.2 mm I tried at 250°C => same problem on the top part
  12. Hi, I'm struggling with this filament to obtain reliable pieces, mostly with layer bonding. here's a summary of what I have read here : - No retractation - No fans for layer adhesion -- no combing - print speed 50mm/s - T° range 250/260°C - bed T° 70° About the print speed, I'm very surprised because I have read somwhere else that a slow speed is a key parameter for this filament. Source The mat finish surface is amazing ,do you know other filament that gave same finish appearence ?
  13. Utilisez une feuille de PEI ! Ca coute 20 boules et ça n'a rien à voir avec du scoth bleu ou de la glue ou de la laque 😄
  14. Cube print (and better the calibration cross ) allow to set up the step/mm. also the calibration cross allow you to see if there in an horizontal expansion parameter you can play with. I'm taking note about the spiralysed cylinder, do you have any reference about it please ?
  15. Hi, I'm trying to calibrate my UMO+ to make her print XT CF20 filament perfectly. I use a hollow cube (20 mm square, one shell, no roof) to calibrate the extruder. my nozzle is a .4 xtra nozzle from E3D filament is measured at 2.94mm diameter. With a %flow of 90% I have wall thickness measured at .66mm (with digital caliper) I have to lower it down to 70% to have 0.45mm wall thickness but then I clearly have a problem of underextrusion 😕 see attached picture. Do you have any idea ?
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