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Catlord last won the day on November 26 2019

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  1. Did you try to contact colorfabb to have this aspect ratio size ?
  2. Hi, as already stated, the XTCF20 needs a T° of more than 250°C to be printed. Direct bowden tube without a metal heatbreak CAN NOT PRINT AT 250°C ! Bowden tubes start melting around 240°C. so yes, you can't print XTCF20 with a stock CR10 properly.
  3. Ok, here's what I understand of your demand : filament are shrinking after being printed so if you print a 20mm cube, it will be 19.XX after being printed. Is that the meaning of your demand ? if it's the case, here's are a few tips : first: check this page : https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/properties-table/ you will find the coeficient of thermal expansion of several kind of filament. Second : download the calibration cross on thingiverse : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2484766 there is an excel file where you have all you need. shrinking coeficient, steps calibration, and so on. My advice: YOU MUST CALIBRATE YOUR STEPS CAREFULLY ! - use a depth gauge and an adequat mount (search on thingiverse) - place your gauge on the X axis, use pronterface, do 200mm while measuring with the depth gauge. modifiy your step/mm value, repeat until you have exactly 200mm+-0.03mm do it again for Y and Z axis. like this, you know that when you ask to print a XX mm piece, your printer will do it exactly and if you piece is not XXmm, it's due to other parameters like shrinking . this way you will be able to calculate the ratio you need 😉
  4. I don't understand what you mean : are you speaking about the size of the carbon micro fibers inside the filament ? Academic in wich field ? I work in a research facility. (I have acess to an electroic microscope)
  5. Someone made a review on their website : So raising printing T° to 250°C and bed at 95°C
  6. By microswiss i mean this one : https://store.micro-swiss.com/collections/creality-cr-10/products/all-metal-hotend-kit-for-cr-10 buy it from manufacturer to avoid clones. 0.5 nozzle is good. don't go lower than 0.4mm CURA slicer is producing Gcode directly. you can modifiy it if you want. it REALLY easy. - take the stl file of the thing you want to print - open CURA, import the stl file - choose the parameter you want (speed, T°, bed T°, infil,....) - clic slice - save the gcodefile produceed. that's it. Changing the firmware is also very easy and and very quick. On the youtube channel i gave you, you have complete method to do it example :
  7. Your are cumulating lots of oproblems. - STOP printing at these T° with your stock printer ! As you have already done it, your bowden tube must be replaced. remove if and you will see that the end part that touch the nozzle is in bad shape. cut this part (perpendicularly !) I don't have a Cr-10 but an ultimaker original and an ender that is pretty the same as the CR10. If you change the hotend, you will need : - to make adjustement in the firmware (to reach 250/260°C) - to run a PID tuning (use pronterface) Why do you write your own Gcode ? use Cura (it's free). Print speed 25mm/s low speed doens't mean you won't wear your nozzle ! And this ultra low speed will cause you other problems (filement is made to melt a little, with 2mm/sec, your filament stay TOOOO LONG in the nozzle ! stick: use a PEI Sheet. I strongly advice you to watch these youtube channels : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsdc_0ZTXikARFEn2dRDJhg https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbgBDBrwsikmtoLqtpc59Bw https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1Ak7Ir1WMOWauY_oH00-Qg (and look for LUKE'S manual for mounting ender3, preety the same for CR-10) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxQbYGpbdrh-b2ND-AfIybg https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiczXOhGpvoQGhOL16EZiTg https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrFGsH4pplqjFXJqLcjykNQ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDk3ScYL7OaeGbOPdDIqIlQ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPFChjpOgkUqckj3378jt5w in these channels you will find ALL THE ANSWERS you need to understand where you problems come from and how to solve it. it will take you a long time by it's worse the effort 😉 My advice : First you need to repair your printer: it's damaged as you have printed at a too high T° => cut your bowden tube (or better, buy a capricorn tube with the pliers that cuts perpendicularly) run a few print with PLA at standard T° to check if everything is ok you still want to print XT-CF 20 ? => buy a microswiss hotend => change the firmware ( look at teaching tech videos about it) => run a PID Tuning => proceed to ALL tunings (temperature tower, stringing, dimensionnal accuracy, extruder tuning,...) Then you will have no trouble to print XT-CF20 filament. Low grade ( and even high grade) 3D printers are NOT plug n' play unfortunatly. it requires a tons of tweaking and learning :/
  8. Ok lets begin then :) Stock mean you didn't make any upgrade on your printer. you didn't change the bowden tube by a quality one (like capricorn), you didn't change the hot end. XT-CF20 needs to be printed with a T° between 250 and 265/270°C depending of your hotend. This IS NOT COMPATIBLE with a CR-10 stock. have a look at the following video . /!\ BEWARE ! THIS IS NOT A FIX TO YOUR PROBLEM /!\ It will explain you a few tips about your hotend. For my part, I didn't made this hotfix: I take care of my hotend and check it every 2 weeks. As you can see, in your hotend, the bowden tube is going down till it touch the nozzle. A bowden tube starts degrading at 245°C, it becomes flexible and dilate itself. the pressure made by your extruder on the filament starts to deform the bowden tube around the nozzle. It causes clogs and underextruding and BIG CLOGS. The only way to print at more than 240°C with a CR-10 like printer is to use another hotend: a "full metal hotend". There are 2 brands well know: Micro swiss (that have hotend compatible directly with CR-10/ender3) and E3D . There are also clones of corse. - If you want to print at more than 240°C, change your hotend - if you want to print hard filament (like Carbon, wood, marble,...) use a hardened nozzle (like Xtra nozzle from E3D, ruby, reinforced steel nozzle,...) or byuy tons of brass nozzle and change it every 500gr printed. (proceed to check and adapt this value)
  9. Hi, Is your CR-10 stock or did you make some upgrade on it ? If it's stock, don't waste your time : XT-CF20 needs to be printed around 250 /260 °C and your bowden tube will start melting causing clog and troubles. I use an E3DV6 hotend on an ultimaker original and it works pretty well (I'm chaning the extruder, the original one is not adapted)
  10. Thank you Paul, I have had already gone into your videos 😉 I found another tip : if I try to print several different pieces, it finish in mess. one piece at a time seems to be the way to go (for me) I ran into another problem : on the small printed part, it seems that there is a fusion . ahave a look at the top part of this benchy : Print T° 255 °C print head E3DV6 speed 50mm/s no combing no retractation no fans layer heigh 0.2 mm I tried at 250°C => same problem on the top part
  11. Hi, I'm struggling with this filament to obtain reliable pieces, mostly with layer bonding. here's a summary of what I have read here : - No retractation - No fans for layer adhesion -- no combing - print speed 50mm/s - T° range 250/260°C - bed T° 70° About the print speed, I'm very surprised because I have read somwhere else that a slow speed is a key parameter for this filament. Source The mat finish surface is amazing ,do you know other filament that gave same finish appearence ?
  12. Utilisez une feuille de PEI ! Ca coute 20 boules et ça n'a rien à voir avec du scoth bleu ou de la glue ou de la laque 😄
  13. Cube print (and better the calibration cross ) allow to set up the step/mm. also the calibration cross allow you to see if there in an horizontal expansion parameter you can play with. I'm taking note about the spiralysed cylinder, do you have any reference about it please ?
  14. Hi, I'm trying to calibrate my UMO+ to make her print XT CF20 filament perfectly. I use a hollow cube (20 mm square, one shell, no roof) to calibrate the extruder. my nozzle is a .4 xtra nozzle from E3D filament is measured at 2.94mm diameter. With a %flow of 90% I have wall thickness measured at .66mm (with digital caliper) I have to lower it down to 70% to have 0.45mm wall thickness but then I clearly have a problem of underextrusion 😕 see attached picture. Do you have any idea ?
  15. Bonjour, il n'a pas de règle particulière, cela dépend de ce que vous imprimer. quelle matière, et surtout quelle forme? j'au une UMO+, lit chauffant etc... Pour éviter tout problème d'adhérence j'ai mis une feuille de PEI et une flexplate. Le PEI adhère tellement que sans la flexplate, je devais décoller les impressions au marteau... (oui oui, marteau + lame de cutter glissée en dessous de l'impression...) si vous n'avez pas une adhérence extraordinaire, il faut éviter la jupe qui ne sert qu'a etre sur d'avoir de la matière au moment de 'extrusion du modèle. J'utilise la bordure quand j'imprime des pièce de grande dimensions ou des pièces avec des angles vifs. jamais de radeau. le radeau compense bien les soucis de planéité. j'utilise un BLTOUCH donc plus de soucis de planéité.
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