Catlord

@darkdvd : merci de ta réactivité 😉

Problème résolu avec la méthode freebox : désinstalle, réinstalle. A priori c'était un problème de profile d'imprimante qui foirait tout.

Voici le cube en question model1.stl Je viens de tomber sur ce post qui présente le même genre de soucis.

ALors justement pour partir sur une base qui ne laisse aucun doute, j'ai fait ce cube avec une peau de 2mm. et une face vide . Il n'y a pas de doutes, il n'y a pas de défaut. Prusaslicer le slice proprement, CURA 4.1 me sors un truc imbitable. Y z'auraient pas foutu une option hollow à la con quelque part ?

Hello, j'ai installé cura 4.1 et j'ai un gros soucis avec. je fait des litophanes sphérique et des que je slice, CURA me rempli complètement l'intérieur de la sphere ce qu'il n'a jamais fait avant. Dans le doute j'ai chargé un ancien litophane ( le nouveau posait peut être problème) : même résultat. J'ai donc alors crée une figure ouverte : un cube sans fond avd 2mm de paroie: MEME RESUL¨TAT ! J'ai essayé infil 100%, nombre de mur 99 = cura rempli tout. si je met nombre de murs 10, il me mets 10 murs. ca parait logique mais en fait non: cura semble considèrer qu'une forme ouverte (et exempte de défauts: c'est bien water tight, pas de soucis) doit être remplie. C'est une nouvelle fonctionnalité ? Note: j'ai slicer le même STL dans prusaslicer et là, pas de problèmes. Je préfère LARGEMENT CURA pour les lito, il gère bien mieux l'impression des trucs fin. Toutes mes sphère sous prusaslicer sortent degueulasses ^^ Merci pour votre aide qui se révélera précieuse 🙂

There is nothing that can stop you :) You have to change the hotend, the extruder, the bowden tube. all your printing chain in fact

Did you try to contact colorfabb to have this aspect ratio size ?

Hi, as already stated, the XTCF20 needs a T° of more than 250°C to be printed. Direct bowden tube without a metal heatbreak CAN NOT PRINT AT 250°C ! Bowden tubes start melting around 240°C. so yes, you can't print XTCF20 with a stock CR10 properly.

Ok, here's what I understand of your demand : filament are shrinking after being printed so if you print a 20mm cube, it will be 19.XX after being printed. Is that the meaning of your demand ? if it's the case, here's are a few tips : first: check this page : https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/properties-table/ you will find the coeficient of thermal expansion of several kind of filament. Second : download the calibration cross on thingiverse : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2484766 there is an excel file where you have all you need. shrinking coeficient, steps calibration, and so on. My advice: YOU MUST CALIBRATE YOUR STEPS CAREFULLY ! - use a depth gauge and an adequat mount (search on thingiverse) - place your gauge on the X axis, use pronterface, do 200mm while measuring with the depth gauge. modifiy your step/mm value, repeat until you have exactly 200mm+-0.03mm do it again for Y and Z axis. like this, you know that when you ask to print a XX mm piece, your printer will do it exactly and if you piece is not XXmm, it's due to other parameters like shrinking . this way you will be able to calculate the ratio you need 😉

I don't understand what you mean : are you speaking about the size of the carbon micro fibers inside the filament ? Academic in wich field ? I work in a research facility. (I have acess to an electroic microscope)

Someone made a review on their website : So raising printing T° to 250°C and bed at 95°C

By microswiss i mean this one : https://store.micro-swiss.com/collections/creality-cr-10/products/all-metal-hotend-kit-for-cr-10 buy it from manufacturer to avoid clones. 0.5 nozzle is good. don't go lower than 0.4mm CURA slicer is producing Gcode directly. you can modifiy it if you want. it REALLY easy. - take the stl file of the thing you want to print - open CURA, import the stl file - choose the parameter you want (speed, T°, bed T°, infil,....) - clic slice - save the gcodefile produceed. that's it. Changing the firmware is also very easy and and very quick. On the youtube channel i gave you, you have complete method to do it example :

Your are cumulating lots of oproblems. - STOP printing at these T° with your stock printer ! As you have already done it, your bowden tube must be replaced. remove if and you will see that the end part that touch the nozzle is in bad shape. cut this part (perpendicularly !) I don't have a Cr-10 but an ultimaker original and an ender that is pretty the same as the CR10. If you change the hotend, you will need : - to make adjustement in the firmware (to reach 250/260°C) - to run a PID tuning (use pronterface) Why do you write your own Gcode ? use Cura (it's free). Print speed 25mm/s low speed doens't mean you won't wear your nozzle ! And this ultra low speed will cause you other problems (filement is made to melt a little, with 2mm/sec, your filament stay TOOOO LONG in the nozzle ! stick: use a PEI Sheet. I strongly advice you to watch these youtube channels : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsdc_0ZTXikARFEn2dRDJhg https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbgBDBrwsikmtoLqtpc59Bw https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1Ak7Ir1WMOWauY_oH00-Qg (and look for LUKE'S manual for mounting ender3, preety the same for CR-10) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxQbYGpbdrh-b2ND-AfIybg https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiczXOhGpvoQGhOL16EZiTg https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrFGsH4pplqjFXJqLcjykNQ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDk3ScYL7OaeGbOPdDIqIlQ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPFChjpOgkUqckj3378jt5w in these channels you will find ALL THE ANSWERS you need to understand where you problems come from and how to solve it. it will take you a long time by it's worse the effort 😉 My advice : First you need to repair your printer: it's damaged as you have printed at a too high T° => cut your bowden tube (or better, buy a capricorn tube with the pliers that cuts perpendicularly) run a few print with PLA at standard T° to check if everything is ok you still want to print XT-CF 20 ? => buy a microswiss hotend => change the firmware ( look at teaching tech videos about it) => run a PID Tuning => proceed to ALL tunings (temperature tower, stringing, dimensionnal accuracy, extruder tuning,...) Then you will have no trouble to print XT-CF20 filament. Low grade ( and even high grade) 3D printers are NOT plug n' play unfortunatly. it requires a tons of tweaking and learning :/

Ok lets begin then :) Stock mean you didn't make any upgrade on your printer. you didn't change the bowden tube by a quality one (like capricorn), you didn't change the hot end. XT-CF20 needs to be printed with a T° between 250 and 265/270°C depending of your hotend. This IS NOT COMPATIBLE with a CR-10 stock. have a look at the following video . /!\ BEWARE ! THIS IS NOT A FIX TO YOUR PROBLEM /!\ It will explain you a few tips about your hotend. For my part, I didn't made this hotfix: I take care of my hotend and check it every 2 weeks. As you can see, in your hotend, the bowden tube is going down till it touch the nozzle. A bowden tube starts degrading at 245°C, it becomes flexible and dilate itself. the pressure made by your extruder on the filament starts to deform the bowden tube around the nozzle. It causes clogs and underextruding and BIG CLOGS. The only way to print at more than 240°C with a CR-10 like printer is to use another hotend: a "full metal hotend". There are 2 brands well know: Micro swiss (that have hotend compatible directly with CR-10/ender3) and E3D . There are also clones of corse. - If you want to print at more than 240°C, change your hotend - if you want to print hard filament (like Carbon, wood, marble,...) use a hardened nozzle (like Xtra nozzle from E3D, ruby, reinforced steel nozzle,...) or byuy tons of brass nozzle and change it every 500gr printed. (proceed to check and adapt this value)

Hi, Is your CR-10 stock or did you make some upgrade on it ? If it's stock, don't waste your time : XT-CF20 needs to be printed around 250 /260 °C and your bowden tube will start melting causing clog and troubles. I use an E3DV6 hotend on an ultimaker original and it works pretty well (I'm chaning the extruder, the original one is not adapted)