Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Artiz

Dormant
  • Content Count

    99
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Artiz last won the day on April 30 2016

Artiz had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

27 Excellent

Personal Information

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Two excellent posts with loads more detailed info and settings Zwakie... thumbs up!
  2. I didn't use any retraction at all and printed both these handle components at 0.17 layer height so I'm sure most will get much better 'precision' results than me... these took about 11 hours each by using an 0.8 nozzle to get them out nice and quick (at 50mms)... I am also very much into my post print work so waiting 30-35 hours each print doesn't make much sense for me and my large prototypes. I reckon these 'quick' prints above are much more of a 'baseline' than anything else with the stringing probably part of my settings although it may also be an aspect of the material. The top image is
  3. It's a nice material to sand down. I'll use a polyurethane spray to seal when I have bonded both parts together with a polyurethane bonding agent (Titebond) and finished all my post print work.
  4. I get the feeling that messing around with your 'generic' stuff without a point of reference may just be a bit of a waste of time and even perhaps money... then again why not of course. The other polycarb you couldn't remember is PC-Plus by the way and I really didn't like that stuff... far too brittle and almost impossible to get a decent print out of it. The polycarbonate enigma is an interesting one though and I do actually think that Polymaker have finally cracked it with PC-Max... I did get a small amount of warping below but nothing serious... the strength really is something special..
  5. Wolfbite MEGA has actually worked well for me but only with Polymaker's PC-Max. What exactly is "plain old classic polycarb"?
  6. Absolutely no problems with it coming off the glass... although I did make the mistake of allowing it to cool before sticking it in the oven for an hour at 100C... it warped very slightly as it cooled and detached itself from the glass/hot plate but not enough thankfully to affect the print. Easy enough to just remove the glass and the print together but make sure it goes into the oven straight away... as soon as the print is finished. The annealing process just relaxes the print so that any further/future warping is checked. After an hour just turn the oven off but leave it inside to cool slo
  7. Following on from my previous post as I progressed onto my larger prints I experienced big problems with BuildTak. Seems OK for smaller prints but doesn't last very long either way which makes it kind of useless and it's far too expensive to use it per large print. I am currently trying Wolfbite MEGA with Polymaker's PC-Max and initially it did not perform well. However after putting up the bed temp to 100C and putting at least 3 layers on it seems to be working at last. I also tried a couple of failed prints without a raft and that definitely does not work well. It is still extremely expensi
  8. The only appropriate word for this is WOW! Absolutely stunning print... and he stands unaided too... well done!
  9. I've been trying out Polymakers PC-Max and I am getting some good results on my 'unpimped' UM2 extended. I have to say that nothing else works other than the Buildtak sheet which came with it regarding bed adhesion... the Buildtak still wants to detach from the glass after a couple of prints but it's still going after 4 medium/small prints and some hard work taking off the residue. I used a very sharp Stanley blade keeping it at a strict 45 degree angle to the surface scraping it back and forth very quickly to remove any left over material... which also seems to help the Buildtak sheet stick
  10. hehe... but wouldn't you be a bit excited getting all those lovely presents in the post... couldn't work out why though...?
  11. After a couple of dives with the gun I noticed that my cellulose primer was wearing off and starting to go white in some of the main wear areas... only slightly but clearly detaching from the sanded print surface... cellulose or spirit based products don't appear to last or stick particularly well to the printed XT-CF20 material... although that is after being submerged in the sea for extended periods I should add. This polyurethane product is to date a far superior coating as well as a glass finish to the buildplate side/bottom of the print... better still you don't actually need to sand the
  12. I started off with wire wool which was OK but not as good as 600 grit emery cloth... once my print lines started disappearing it began to shine with the help of a little bit of cheap general purpose metal cleaner. When my arm stops aching I'll finish it off with Brasso. I used a green ageing solution (patina) from Modern Masters (small bottle is about £5) which only takes a few hours and a couple of coats with a small brush. I tried a few home solutions... lemon juice, vinegar, salt etc which just took too long and irritated me. ...Thanks Les ...it is a remarkable printing filament... the
  13. Could probably do with a bit more polishing but my arm's gone numb.
×
×
  • Create New...