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Artiz

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Artiz last won the day on April 30 2016

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  1. Two excellent posts with loads more detailed info and settings Zwakie... thumbs up!
  2. I didn't use any retraction at all and printed both these handle components at 0.17 layer height so I'm sure most will get much better 'precision' results than me... these took about 11 hours each by using an 0.8 nozzle to get them out nice and quick (at 50mms)... I am also very much into my post print work so waiting 30-35 hours each print doesn't make much sense for me and my large prototypes. I reckon these 'quick' prints above are much more of a 'baseline' than anything else with the stringing probably part of my settings although it may also be an aspect of the material. The top image is
  3. It's a nice material to sand down. I'll use a polyurethane spray to seal when I have bonded both parts together with a polyurethane bonding agent (Titebond) and finished all my post print work.
  4. I get the feeling that messing around with your 'generic' stuff without a point of reference may just be a bit of a waste of time and even perhaps money... then again why not of course. The other polycarb you couldn't remember is PC-Plus by the way and I really didn't like that stuff... far too brittle and almost impossible to get a decent print out of it. The polycarbonate enigma is an interesting one though and I do actually think that Polymaker have finally cracked it with PC-Max... I did get a small amount of warping below but nothing serious... the strength really is something special..
  5. Wolfbite MEGA has actually worked well for me but only with Polymaker's PC-Max. What exactly is "plain old classic polycarb"?
  6. Absolutely no problems with it coming off the glass... although I did make the mistake of allowing it to cool before sticking it in the oven for an hour at 100C... it warped very slightly as it cooled and detached itself from the glass/hot plate but not enough thankfully to affect the print. Easy enough to just remove the glass and the print together but make sure it goes into the oven straight away... as soon as the print is finished. The annealing process just relaxes the print so that any further/future warping is checked. After an hour just turn the oven off but leave it inside to cool slo
  7. I also tried a reel of the PC-Plus and I have to say I think its a bit on the rubbish side... very brittle and virtually impossible to get a decent large print out of it... despite hours of frigging around with it. Whereas the PC-Max is excellent when used with WolfBite Mega. Strength is stunning, printing is reasonably easy and just pops off the glass even after annealing. My report so far is here
  8. Following on from my previous post as I progressed onto my larger prints I experienced big problems with BuildTak. Seems OK for smaller prints but doesn't last very long either way which makes it kind of useless and it's far too expensive to use it per large print. I am currently trying Wolfbite MEGA with Polymaker's PC-Max and initially it did not perform well. However after putting up the bed temp to 100C and putting at least 3 layers on it seems to be working at last. I also tried a couple of failed prints without a raft and that definitely does not work well. It is still extremely expensi
  9. copied from Wolfbite thread I am currently trying Wolfbite MEGA with polycarbonate (Polymaker's PC-Max) and initially it did not perform well. However after putting up the bed temp to 100C and putting at least 3 layers on it seems to be working at last. I also tried a couple of prints without a raft and that definitely does not work well. It is still extremely expensive for the amount you get (£20 for 60ml-delivered UK)... particularly regarding the amount you have to use to get it to work. Having said that as you can see from the image below there is clearly no lift or warping of the Raft
  10. I am currently trying Wolfbite MEGA with polycarbonate (Polymaker's PC-Max) and initially it did not perform well. However after putting up the bed temp to 100C and putting at least 3 layers on it seems to be working at last. I also tried a couple of prints without a raft and that definitely does not work well. It is still extremely expensive for the amount you get (£20 for 60ml-delivered UK)... particularly regarding the amount you have to use to get it to work. Having said that as you can see from the image below there is clearly no lift or warping of the Raft or indeed regarding this very
  11. great tip Tommy much thanks... my glass has just shattered with a Polymaker PC-plus print so I know exactly what you are talking about. Any chance of a link to the fiberplate you are using... there seems to be a few different types... P.S. I've also just ordered some Wolfbite Mega to give it a try.
  12. The only appropriate word for this is WOW! Absolutely stunning print... and he stands unaided too... well done!
  13. luisito is right Buildtak is hopeless... and with both PC-Max and PC-Plus. It does stick well enough for your first print but after that it just comes away and if that's not bad enough you can't even get it off the Buildtak surface without damaging the Buildtak and sometimes the print too... very lucky if you don't. Not a good product in my opinion... it offers false hope. PC-Max/Plus both really warp very badly too... and especially on long and large prints. I use a urethane bonding glue which I paint onto the glass 30 minutes before printing... works extremely well sometimes and then occas
  14. Having just read these comments again for the first time gr5 I think I owe you an apology... you do a great job around this forum and my comments sound ungrateful... you just carry on doing what you do and ignore my nonsense... kind regards...
  15. I'm currently trying out the Polymaker PC-Max which is looking like the real thing at last.
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