SG91
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Posts posted by SG91
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at the walls it goes back and forth 1 time. what I can see.
So annoying with un necessary blobs, it ruins the finish. And if you start to file or cut it gonna scratch everything.
If this wall is .4 or under then it will be hard to get a nice finish in that section. 2 passes on a thin wall is best. You can set the nozzle size smaller then the actual nozzle size and still get good results down to 0.3mm I have gone smaller but its hard from that point to get the same results. if you are able to this and get 2 passes in this area then that would be good.
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Ok , I dont know details about it .
I placed them very close.
I just know it has to be the retraction. Its feels wrong to avoid the multiple parts feature cos of blobs.
Now I understand the thin part that you have been explaining.
Do you know the width of this area?
Have you looked in layer view to make sure it prints every layer for that one section?
If you print multiple items you need to put them as close together as possible to help stop getting the blobs.
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Would like to hear all about retraction, how to get better blob free travels between parts.
and when to change it ?
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yes you are right. But driving faster on one small cant be good either?
this one 180c just without the minimum time spent ea layer.
the left part looks good now, (maybe of that Or me changed temps before)
BUT still the issue at those two small walls.
Can make 2 for cooler but it might be something else?
Even did one in 0.2 today, turned out the same.
Now printing 6 pieces at same time was suppose to be the parts to use.
But as I thought there are some blobs caused by travel/retractions between the parts.
And It irritates me
Its an ok feature but only helps on a small amount situations. The problem is, When it slows down the material feeding is slower. this means the material absorbs more heat and has more thermal expansion. this tends to give fatter lines and can give blobs. Also you have a hot nozzle moving slowly, this can also overheat the part.
If you have a small part and it start printing a already soft layer then this is also an issue.
So the best way to solve the issue is to print 2 items. the print speed stays the same and the part has plenty of time to cool.
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In what case is that good for then, a big object I think wont need slowing down .
And a small bit would get over heated. ?
yeah, put it on 1 or something
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think I heard it slow down some time . shall I remove the 5sec spent on ea layer then?
have you noticed if the printer slows down or speeds up during any part of the print?
these areas with problems maybe slowed down by the minimum layer time so you will need to adjust this so it doesn't slow down. otherwise it could be slowed down and overheated.
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Nope there was no red . either in overhang view .weird
It looks vastly better but yes there still is some issues.
Have you looked at the model in x-ray mode to make sure there are no issues ( shown in red )
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Right! btw the second one looks better.
But there are small errors still I Think. and from the top side both seems
leaning abit if you can see. (the thick walls to the right.
and half way up there is still some minor errors and to the left a tiny "bridge" look .
it goes slower. this can be good and bad. if slower then the hot head can overheat the layers. but it can allow the rest of the part to cool.
if you need more cooling its best to print 2 parts at a time or a small tower next to the model.
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Yes I cant see that its under, operates fine. its the small wall I hope for will be right.
Another thought, increasing time spent on each layer. Will it just go slower or take an extra turn around the block?
That is quite cold for that speed but machines do differ and also materials. As long as you don't get under extrusion is should be fine.
Hope it turns out good.
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its up and running now cold as 184c. about 30minis in I lowered to 180. I suppose I should not go lower. The first positive sign is the blobs didnt occure inside the lower holes. Will see what happens at higher layers. i hope it wont screw up again.
shouldn't be needed.
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ah I see. but u have nice tight belts then? I wait for my gt2 belts to come before I try boost it
anyway for this small part sonic speed moves is not needed really ?
I dont have a UM0 but UM2 can handle 250 fine without missing steps. I run my UM2go at 300mm/s travel. yeah they move around but the item you are printing is small. I have dropped the acceleration from standard as I had to much ghosting so that may make a difference.
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150 looks fast to me, the whole thing shakes . Wont faster make it miss steps ?
its the tiny short wall im afraid of the most.My opinion sometime it choose unnecessary ways
around things in travel mode. instead of short cuts.
Try colder or speed it up a little. I normally run travel speed at 250.
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okey but the Lars block was in 0.1 so I should do it again at 185c this time?
and the travel speed was 150 or 160 at that time.
seeing you are printing with such a low layer height and so slow you may need to go colder, 190 or even 185.
you could try printing it a bit faster or a 0.1mm layer height which could make it come out a bit better. in your blocks you can see the little blobs and a few little strings. this means its to hot. increasing the travel speed might also help.
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hm hard for me as a novice. I ment 25mm/s inside and out as you said.
100% fan speed . lol tried 0.06, did not work at all this time. Almost nothing came out. re started a few times .. jam.
A variety of things to try.
1. ensure your minimum layer time is at least 10 secs to give the printed layer time to cool before the next layer is deposited. It look small so if that is not possible to achieve you can either print 1 or 2 copies concurrently to increase the layer time. Alternatively you can give z-lift a go - both have their advantages and disadvantages.
2. Use the same print speed everywhere for the printing beyond layer 1. By that I mean the walls/perimeters external and internal, and infill. Changing speed changes changes extruder pressure which takes time to stabilise and can cause spots like you have on the vertical wall of the circular section.
3. Go slow, 25mm/s is good and go cool. Get those fans pumping out 100%; try and get that 195c down as low as possible. If that is normal pla I think you have headroom to go lower.
4. I am not sure what is causing that mess about halfway up the z-axis. maybe you got a stick and too much filament was extruded for that layer, not sure.
5. Actually as you have these problems I would drop to 20mm/s or even 15mm/s although I do not think I have ever gone to 15.
6. Try a different filament, sometimes that can all the difference.
7. Retraction; hmn I am no expert in that area. I got it working a couple of years ago and have never changed my settings since. No doubt someone else will have a view on that.
8. Fine test; yeah difficult aren't they. To me that says extruder too hot; maybe fans not 100%; minimum layer time less than 10 seconds; or just the impossible dream. Maybe worth trying a thinner layer to reduce the amount of filament being extruded
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umo+ 25mm/s 195c
I want to print nice new Blocks. Tested one .
But there is some ugly spots and blobs. Has to do about retraction?
did a fine test too same settings.
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Okey thanks guys for replies!
About the tube, It turned out to be alittle rough inside
And it did go away by some friction. So now it moves nice and easy back and forth.
Still kinda tight but could have done it even smaller then.
What known Pla And Abs does shrink less ?
I often have to print 3mm holes to take a M3 bolt. I always specify a 1.6mm radius and the bolt is a perfect fit.
It isn't shrinkage, just the PLA squeezing into the space.
The elephants foot on the bottom layer adds a bit more but that is only 1 layer thick.
The overall size the objects I print are certainly within +/- 0.2mm of the specification.
Okey cos I did A tube 15mm outer diameter with 2mm thick wall.
And 10.75mm inside diameter.
it just fitted tight on A 10mm axle . so I guess for that dimension it shrinks 0.75 ?
Its about 7% ?
Hi,
It depends of the material, probably the brand and maybe the color also. I'm not an expert in this but generally for PLA we talk about 2 to 5% shrinkage.
I think it can also be dependent of the model itself and the constraint that plastic is generating on the overall object..
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Okey cos I did A tube 15mm outer diameter with 2mm thick wall.
And 10.75mm inside diameter.
it just fitted tight on A 10mm axle . so I guess for that dimension it shrinks 0.75 ?
Its about 7% ?
Hi,
It depends of the material, probably the brand and maybe the color also. I'm not an expert in this but generally for PLA we talk about 2 to 5% shrinkage.
I think it can also be dependent of the model itself and the constraint that plastic is generating on the overall object..
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can some1 explain this ?
is it about the same all time or can it go from 0.2 -1mm or what?
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hm weird after a few prints today I managed to get some better circles. Dunno what happened to the machine.
Started to experiment in sketchup with rings to fit A 10mm drill axle. First tried 10mm didnt work. Then 11 abit vobbly. 10.5 too small . And finally I thought 10.75 yes its A perfect fit.
Also first time attempt for me to make something bolt on. And it sits tight.
anyway this is my default tension
pushes them untill it says stop. Do I need tighten ?
very small difference compare to left.
Btw that bad circles might mean that you need a belt tensioner. Check the belts, they don't need to be tight, but just not loose. The guy that designed the side blocks has also a small tensioner addon for mxl belts that worked nice for me until I changed all to gt2.
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Thanks Netko. Sorry I always get confused with the jungle of parts but sorted it.
will order from robotdigg
4x 606mm closed-loop gt2 belt
10x GT2 Pulley 20 Teeth 8mm Bore
2x 202mm 2GT-6 endless belt
2x UM 20 tooth 2GT pulley 5mm
As the thread said.
But atm my printer dont do perfect circles etc so it may be wrong when I need
new x - y blocks. only have pla what do u recomend?
And if you mean umo/umo+ belt upgrade (something you haven't clear) then it's 6mm wide, the length it's in the posted link (tooth = length)
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Ah okej! but length and width was not mentioned really
For umo/umo+ upgrade
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/15874-mxl-vs-gt2-print-results?page=2#reply-114250
For um2 the belt info etc it's on the github google github ultimaker 2
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hello
Can some1 link me matching belts and pulleys at http://www.robotdigg.com/ the gt2 ones.
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Hello
Got the curse with irregular circles. On my umo+
I re tightened all the pulleys today extra hard and re aligned the x y axis.
Tightened the stepper motors also and its pulleys..
but wasnt helpfull.
what shall I do next ?
Before I did this I made the Z resonance test , its suppose to be a square ?
But Y for me turned out 10mm and X 19.8 .
repeating this test right now to see.
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Hi,
what du you mean? Which printer do you use?
well an umo+
I ment I was curious to try controll the feeding to get some oozing before print.
But I did push it too much ended up blocking the nozzle etc.. Had to take everything apart and cut off a short bit from the tube also cos the filament jammed up like a spotweld,
ugly surfaces
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted · Edited by Guest
Kinda off topic but, can some1 help me change gcodes?
Would like to do this
1. If possible remove the auto home function just before it goes to do A skirt?
Im abit bored of having to restart 1-2times cos of oozed filament get squished around
the nozzle. And messes around with it at the print zone.
2. Automatic 210c first layer then go down/up to the temp I choosen in cura.
3. At the end to make it stay at idle temps 150c + bed 60 after.