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Everything posted by Springclip

  1. Version 1.0


    I printed this for my niece. Please note: it has been sanded smooth with 320 sandpaper.
  2. Version 1.0


    Alfa 166 water pump impeller
  3. It depends on the colour. I find the natural white ABS pro gives a much better print quality and it is tolerant of fan cooling to a point. ABS Pro has a FANTASTIC sanding surface if you start with 180 paper and end off with 400. ABS pro is as good as the Ultimaker light blue PLA filament. I often sand items smooth and paint them. Cover the front of the UM2 (cardboard). Partially cover top with wide strips of paper that have the edges folded for stiffness. It is not a fully enclosed volume and there is enough room for the head to move around. It is however more than enough to keep it toasty inside. Don't use cardboard on top as you could crunch your head when the print stops if the card gets caught. Cura settings: 0.4mm nozzle I use hairspray to adhere the first layer, applied to cold (max 30ºC) glass only. Do not use Wolfbite with ABS Pro - it will end up ripping off large flakes of glass from the build plate (in my case: a 200mm x 50mm strip 0.5mm deep). Bed 105ºC to 112ºC (I typically use the 112ºC. I seem to remember it goes plasticky at 90ºC). I print at 22ºC ambient room temp with no windows open and no breeze First layer 250ºC The rest: 240ºC Initial layer 0.2mm (I normally print a lot of detailed stuff with 0.1mm layers) Initial layer line width 180 Travel 150 Bottom layer 30 Infill 60 Outer shell 40 Inner shell 40 Cooling fan: 0 for first 0.5mm Then 25% to 40% of max fan speed for the rest. In the past I've tried as high as 100% fan, but only use this for delicate objects. At 100% fan, layers delaminate for anything wider than about 8mm (solid) and will warp. I can't remember the retraction settings. Maybe 3.95mm at a medium retraction speed? Material flow on the printer set to 122% Try 70% fan for bridging and down to 10mm/s head speed. I often get excellent results using the above and have printed 10 or 12 spools of ABS pro. Settings will need tweaking if you are pausing to cool very narrow structures. If you are seeing black specks, head temp is too high.
  4. Whoops. I meant ETHYL Acetate and not Acetyl Acetate.
  5. Yes, you can use ETHYL Acetate to smooth PLA in much the same manner as acetone will smooth ABS. However, ETHYL Acetate on PLA might not meet your requirement to hold maximum detail. ETHYL Acetate will eventually melt PLA. Nail polish removers contain acetyl acetate. For smoothing, I've tried paint-on products like XTC 3D with variable results. It seems to be less work to paint a glaze on (vs. vapour) and with practice you can directly control how much detail you want to retain in complicated areas. However an absolute requirement for XTC 3D is a method of properly clamping your object so you can rotate it without touching it.
  6. Version 1.0


    3D Printing experimental composite. I printed the frame in black ABS on my Ultimaker 2 in a collaboration with a knife maker John Arnold. The yellow is epoxy and the scales were machined and finished by John to the knife frame. Knife Gallery I was after a clean, razor-sharp contrast between yellow and black that can't currently be obtained using dual extruder heads. I normally vacuum-infuse epoxy into 3D prints to drastically increase overall strength and stiffness (water-tight hydraulic fittings and other engineering applications), but it was used in this way for a striking, alternative look.
  7. Try Acetyl Acetate instead with PLA. It smooths PLA plastics like acetone.
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