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RetromanIE last won the day on May 10

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About RetromanIE

  • Birthday 02/15/1979

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  1. Ultimaker Classic / Classic +? And the second some sort of resin, maybe with quick swap vat/bed or something along those lines. Really want Ultimaker to move away from the UM3 and S5 style nozzle and back to something more along the lines of the UM2+ olsson block(with some updates/improvements of course). I can dream i suppose.
  2. Never mind. I re-seated the thermistor cable on the electronics PCB and it seems to be reading the temps correctly again(2 test prints worked fine). It looks like maybe the pins sagged/bent a little on the board,so I'll reinforce the connector with some Sugru and all will be well :0)
  3. I noticed recently that a few things were coming loose on the bed of one of my Ultimaker 2+ Extended machines while printing and I just couldn't understand it. But then I happened to touch the glass plate while running a print and it was warm, but not near the 60c i had it set to(its displays 60c in the menu). So sure enough I got my thermometer out and measure then bed at about 40c, not 60c. If i increase the set temp to 75c I'm getting around 60c. My thermometer is a bit crappy so it could be off by 5c. I use hair spray on the glass plate usually which is why the things were coming loose, it needs around 50-55c to hold PLA down. I use it more as a release mechanism rather than to hold the print in place. Anyway, I checked all the connections and everything looks fine and I'm not getting any errors. Its the newer print bed as I purchased and installed it late last year. Any ideas as to what it might be? I mean i can print fine if i just tell it to heat the bed to 75c, but i really dont understand whats going on.
  4. Hi, sorry for the delay in replying. No I never fixed the issue and I was able to replicate it on another 3 Ultimaker 2+ machines. So I'm just using the latest stock firmware on my Ultimakers now. The tinker firmware was great in the past, but just isn't reliable anymore so not worth using in my opinion(reliability is important to me). Pity :0(
  5. I put heatsinks on the original stepper drivers as well. They did get a little hotter than normal with the addition of the tl smoothers. Heatsinks are so cheap it just seems like the sensible thing to do, even without any modification.
  6. Ok, so I don't have any before and after pics ready at the moment. But the smoothers have definitely improve the print quality. The zebra stripes/salmon skin is gone completely on most prints and only slightly visible on some others. For the prints that you can still see the effect, I'd say it's a 90% reduction from before.
  7. Not sure this fits in the mod section here, but wasn't sure where else to put it. I was doing some work and upgrades on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended a little while back and had the machine upside down. I decided to give upside down printing a go as I'd wanted to try it for a long time. It works well and might open up some interesting printing options :0) As you can see in the pics I've got a top section on my printer, so this allows me to just sit the printer upside down without restricting the bowden tube etc.
  8. I didn't install a smoother on the extruder, is there still a chance of loss of torque on that without the smoother? My travel speed is usually 120-150mm/s and no slippage so far(its early days in the testing though). As for the case, its ABS Pro from formfutura and i've tested it myself up to 110c without any issue, so it should be ok.
  9. I finally finished the TL Smoother install on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended. Smoothers: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GR5SNNG Heatsinks: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07NVF5BYY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used the below smoother case as a start and redesigned it a little to suit my needs. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3499652 Before the heatsinks and better smoother case tops. Heatsinks and smoother case tops with XYZ cutouts installed. I also grabbed a concrete slab to use as a base for the printer(was using thin granite before this). I covered the corners with some spongy/rubbery material and left the centre uncovered to help with cooling. I'm still testing the smoothers but they have definitely reduced/removed the salmon skin/zebra stripes on my prints. A side effect of the smoothers seems to be quieter operation of the printer. I'm not sure it's actually more silent(as in the decibel level), but the tone has changed and seems lower and less noticeable. One thing, definitely get heatsinks if you are going to be using these, they get hot and you want to be pulling as much of that heat away as possible. I also installed heatsinks on the stepper driver chips on the main pcb in case they get hotter while running with the smoothers installed(they run pretty warm as it is anyway). I'll continue testing and report any issues here. .
  10. So the official height of the Z axis on the Ultimaker 2+ Extended is 305mm. Using the S3D machine control panel I was testing the x and y axis sizes as I was having a centering issue(which i now understand). While i was at it i decided to see what the actual height of the Z axis is, which on my machine is 312mm! I did a test print to see if i can actually print that height and it does indeed go up to 312mm without issue(was a quick vase mode print). Is there any technical reason for not using the extra height? I mean it's only an extra 7mm, but that could be useful for tall prints without having to resize or split etc.
  11. Hi, sure I can share what i have it'll help in any way. S3D: I've also attached a zip file containing one gcode file that always has the issue (its an Ultimaker Robot @0.2mm layer height). UltimakerRobot.zip
  12. Tried lots of things to try and sort this out. Adding some short retrations at the end of gcode to see if that would override the large retrations, no joy. I'll stick the standard firmware back on this. Such a pity as apart from this issue the tinker firmware is so useful.
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