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RetromanIE

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RetromanIE last won the day on May 10 2019

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About RetromanIE

  • Birthday 02/15/1979

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  1. If you could pass it on that would be great. I doubt very much anything will change if this is what they are using as new parts. But people should know what they are getting when paying for parts, especially as Ultimaker stuff is very expensive when compared to the cheaper alternatives.
  2. So, after speaking to the guys in GoPrint3D and some other suppliers, it looks like these are the official Ultimaker Glass beds and Bowden tubes. Whatever about the tube, the glass bed is a massive drop in quality compared to the older version and definitely not worth paying the same price for. So, just to be clear its not the guys in GoPrint3D at fault, its Ultimaker themselves cheaping out on us. If anyone from Ultimaker sees this, guys, this is cheap junk glass and I for one wont be using it my Ultimakers. Please fix this, get the proper glass back in. Or if you insist on using this cheap stuff, at least change the part number and get your resellers to change their stock photos and matching part numbers(different/new part, new part number).
  3. I guess I could live without the nice rounded corners and sides, but the glass just feels so cheap and flimsy. And of course the part numbers dont match up.
  4. I just received these parts from www.goprint3d.co.uk. They are sold as genuine Ultimaker replacement glass bed (part 1154) and genuine Ultimaker bowden (part 1266). On their site the pics are of the real deal(as are the part numbers), but what i got seems like cheap and nasty 3rd party parts. The glass bed is not rounded, light weight and doesn't feel like borosilicate glass and the bowden just looks a bit off. Now I've got many replacement glass beds for my Ultimakers over the years and its always been the same high quality glass bed we all know and love. They usually come shrink wrapped and well protected. As you can see in the pics this is how the glass bed arrived to me this time(they did put bubble wrap on it and sent in a plastic bag). Any thoughts? Anyone from Ultimaker confirm these are cheap parts and not the real deal? Thank you
  5. Ultimaker Classic / Classic +? And the second some sort of resin, maybe with quick swap vat/bed or something along those lines. Really want Ultimaker to move away from the UM3 and S5 style nozzle and back to something more along the lines of the UM2+ olsson block(with some updates/improvements of course). I can dream i suppose.
  6. Never mind. I re-seated the thermistor cable on the electronics PCB and it seems to be reading the temps correctly again(2 test prints worked fine). It looks like maybe the pins sagged/bent a little on the board,so I'll reinforce the connector with some Sugru and all will be well :0)
  7. I noticed recently that a few things were coming loose on the bed of one of my Ultimaker 2+ Extended machines while printing and I just couldn't understand it. But then I happened to touch the glass plate while running a print and it was warm, but not near the 60c i had it set to(its displays 60c in the menu). So sure enough I got my thermometer out and measure then bed at about 40c, not 60c. If i increase the set temp to 75c I'm getting around 60c. My thermometer is a bit crappy so it could be off by 5c. I use hair spray on the glass plate usually which is why the things were coming loose, it needs around 50-55c to hold PLA down. I use it more as a release mechanism rather than to hold the print in place. Anyway, I checked all the connections and everything looks fine and I'm not getting any errors. Its the newer print bed as I purchased and installed it late last year. Any ideas as to what it might be? I mean i can print fine if i just tell it to heat the bed to 75c, but i really dont understand whats going on.
  8. Hi, sorry for the delay in replying. No I never fixed the issue and I was able to replicate it on another 3 Ultimaker 2+ machines. So I'm just using the latest stock firmware on my Ultimakers now. The tinker firmware was great in the past, but just isn't reliable anymore so not worth using in my opinion(reliability is important to me). Pity :0(
  9. I put heatsinks on the original stepper drivers as well. They did get a little hotter than normal with the addition of the tl smoothers. Heatsinks are so cheap it just seems like the sensible thing to do, even without any modification.
  10. Ok, so I don't have any before and after pics ready at the moment. But the smoothers have definitely improve the print quality. The zebra stripes/salmon skin is gone completely on most prints and only slightly visible on some others. For the prints that you can still see the effect, I'd say it's a 90% reduction from before.
  11. Not sure this fits in the mod section here, but wasn't sure where else to put it. I was doing some work and upgrades on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended a little while back and had the machine upside down. I decided to give upside down printing a go as I'd wanted to try it for a long time. It works well and might open up some interesting printing options :0) As you can see in the pics I've got a top section on my printer, so this allows me to just sit the printer upside down without restricting the bowden tube etc.
  12. I didn't install a smoother on the extruder, is there still a chance of loss of torque on that without the smoother? My travel speed is usually 120-150mm/s and no slippage so far(its early days in the testing though). As for the case, its ABS Pro from formfutura and i've tested it myself up to 110c without any issue, so it should be ok.
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