xile6
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Posts posted by xile6
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Thank you for the information.
I check that out and with ooze shield disable and just prime tower.
It prints in the correct order.
If i do the prime tower and ooze shield, correct order.
Just ooze shield wrong order.
I will do a few test prints and see how they come out without an ooze shield.
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Can you post a video of your doing as it should?
I loaded in the mark2 files and added the printer.
I didnt change the profile, just added ooze shield.
And same problem. Preivee shows that it will do the part first then ooze shield.
I also load in the ultimaker 3.
I have to doble check, but pretty sure it did the same thing.
The head move to the far right (for um3 tool change) but went back to the part and didnt item before ooze shield.
Is there an opition in curs i might be missing?
When i used cura 15.04 it would do the ooze shield, prime tower if i turn it on, then part.
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This is the cura 3.1 software and what it does.
Let me know if a print is needed.
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1 minute ago, ultiarjan said:
Just did a dual print, Cura 3.1 and Ultimaker3, including a prime tower. The print order is correct.
Are you sure? can you show a video?
I will get a video later today.
And this is an ultimaker 2 extend thats converted to dual.
I normally use simplify3d for my dual prints with only an ooze shield printed turn iut great. But the support in cura 3.1 is better then simplify3d. So try to use cura for a dual print.
Both nozzles will do the first prime. And first laryer is good. Once it gets to the second laryer,
It will do
T0 ooze shield, item, ooze shield
Then
T1 item, ooze shield, item.
So T1 isnt prime and the item has holes in it.
If i add a prime tower the same thing happens.
Item before prime tower on nozzle switch.
I will get a video in about an hour.
But i use the cura play button and i can see if doing just as said
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I am having a problems with doing dual prints with cura 3.1
It seem to be printing the item before the ooze shield. So it is not priming the second nozzle on tool switch.
Cura 15 would print the ooze shield first then the item.
Is there any options to change this?
I have tired adding in a prime tower but the same thing happens It prints the item before the prime tower.
This is with ultigcode.
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You need to make sure the fans support PWM otherwise you can't control their speed.
Half true.
The output of the board (atlest on my um2ex) does 0-24v. So when changing the fan speed it changes the voltage.
Most fans will run on a small range of voltage.
So a 24v fan might be able to run from 19v-24v giving it maybe a 70%-100% fan speed.
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Happens on all 3d printers.
Its the threads. Either everything isnt super tight, or the high has gotten to it and deform the brass threads.
Unscrew everything. Clean the thread and all the filament from it. Then put it all back together and make sure everything is tight.
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Yes the part cooling fans can be upgraded.
One of mines went out. They are 12v wiring in series.
I got 24v and wire them normally. Works great.
The hotend fan is a 5v 25mmx7mm fan.
A bigger one one fit in that space, but if you made an adapter you might be able to get it in there. And it has to stay 5v or it wont work.
I do no know the amps of the board but i am willing to guess its between 1-2amp on the 5v power.
And 2-3amp max on the 24v
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Thank you for the information.
It doesnt seem to be working for me.
I save the file and when i reload cura it has removed my printer.
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So i have an ultimaker 2 extend and when load up it displays "No print areas". Basically where the bed clips are.
I build a printer for a friend and he has bed clips also.
Is there a way i can add this in cura software so he doesnt end up printing on a clip but can print the full bed?
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Gotta make changes in the firmware.
Ive done this on other printers, you set up both temp sensor in firmware to read the single sensor on the cyclops.
You just have to have both hotends turn on and set to the same temp when printing
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Change then gcode at the end to no turn off the bed.
I believe it is M140
At the end of the gcode file.
Removing that will tell the bed to stay on.
Ill have to look at mines and make sure its that line.
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I need this lol....
When will it be relesed?
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Hi i am setting up a custom dual extrusion printer.
I would like to know where if it is possible to edit the tool change scripts if i am using UltiGCode.
I need to retract X amount on T0 then extrude X amount on T1.
I am unable to find these settings for ultigcode.
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I try'd again with the Ultimaker Dual settings, but had no luck to get ist work :(
I can dropbox you my cura files (.json + extruders) for the mark2, so you have a starting point that produces dual reprap g-code. I'll try to remember to do it tonight
Hi, is it possible for me to get that file?
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any chance this will be updated to use the new marlin that has dual extruders but single hotend?
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I seen it on mines running tinkergnome FW.
Had lcd glitching on my kossel printer.
Turn out to be a stepper motor wire to close to the lcd cables.
Its probably the same problem here
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Looks like under extruderion.
Is your print temp high enough?
When you heat up the hotend and move the filament does it come out nice and smooth or is there little dots in it?
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I always revisit my threads.
I couldnt find the information i wanted to. Switch to tinkergnome firmware since it has more options and was able to see how things work.
I can use the M206 offset to adjust my bed to nozzle.
By offseting the homing.
Dont know why i didnt think of it before but it works for me.
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Hi.
I just got an ultimaker 2. This isnt my frist 3d printer.
I have 2 prusa i3 (1 now sold the other)
And a kossel mini.
So i know a little about 3d printing, but im new to the ultimaker.
The problem i am having is leveling.
I level the bed and everything is good there.
But when i print the frist layer nothing comes out. (Nozzle to close to bed).
Once it gets to the second layer, filament flows and it prints.
Normally on my other printers i would level the bed and make Z offset while the nozzle and bed are at temp. ( thermal expansion)
Also i have an auto level probe on one of my printers which i can adjust the offset to go higher or lower. Z -1 or Z-0.5
My kossel i simple set Z height i.e. from Z300 to Z299
This is how i get the prefect frost layer.
Now back to the ultimaker 2.
Is there a way i can change this?
I am looking for a setting where i can tell it that Z0 is a different height.
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I dont have a clue if you ever finish this, but you should looking into " Diamond Hot end"
It uses 3 filament inputs and outputs to 1 nozzle.
This was used on some reprap 3d printers running marlin.
Its possible to do the same thing with the UM the firmware just needs to be changed.
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How do you level the nozzle to each other?
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Hi. I just order a ultimaker 2 extended.
I would like to order a dual nozzle kit.
I was wondering how do you level the nozzles to each other?
I have other 3d printers and i know to adjust the nozzles on them but this printee seems different.
If there is a video or nice pdf manual on this please point me to it.
Thank you.
UM2s: UM2 Dual Extrusion Switching hack
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Just have to ask what is the full point of this?
I simply added another hotend and level the nozzle and the bed with a dial indicator. Im able to print dual and prints turn out great.